Windshield Rust Hack Job

220629

Well-known member
I just Cheapo'd the repair of the bottom of my windshield too. I figured maybe the windshield rust repair should not necessarily be in Cheap Trcks. It now stands on its own cheapness.

The top windshield repair was November 2012. The bottom repair was November 2014. Both still look good to date. [Feb. 2020.] [11/2020 Minor repair needed on top corners and lower section.]

Windshield Leak Repair
Added:
Feb. 2020 - The windshield repair has not leaked to date. I am now beginning to notice some typical Arctic Whitewash small rust bubbles near the sealant beads. That will need some minor touch-up.

Let me say up front that many of my more fastidious friends here on the forum are going to be thinking up front "That goof should have repaired that sooner." Of course that is correct. I guess my role in our little forum community is to be that brother who puts things off a bit too long and then works to catch up. There are already enough people always doing the right thing, so I view my role as important in its own little way.

Anyway, I've been watching the rust along the top of the windshield getting bigger. The bottom was even worse. I did some repair to the bottom, but access to the top was going to be difficult, so I put it off. A while ago I noticed some staining inside on the upper front area of the headliner. What a surprise. :rolleyes:

When I got up there to address the issue I found that the rust had continued down under the trim rubber. I call it trim rubber because it doesn't seal anything, it just conforms to the opening. Like any other cosmetic trim, its job is to look neat and pretty. It is not a "gasket" or "seal".

The other thing that the trim does is create a covered channel where dirt can get in, build up and then never dry out. I had trimmed off some of that rubber on the bottom when I repaired the lower section, but as it turns out, not enough. I should have been more aggressive with the amount of rubber I removed.

To access the rust channel I took a blade and trimmed off the entire 3/8" - 1/2" wide little strip. (A section of the removed strip is shown in the pictures.) Once I had a piece started it was easy to pull up on the loose end and follow along with the blade to cut it loose. That revealed mucky rusted areas which I couldn't properly get down into and grind out or clean to bare metal. I planned on only doing the top area, but as more poor condition was revealed I stripped the trim piece down both sides too.
Added:
Cutting the trim strip with a blade may not be necessary. It has been reported that the entire trim strip can just be pulled out using pliers.

Because the rest of the body is also deteriorating I will not go to the effort of removing my windshield for a repair. I decided my plan of attack would be to grind all that I could to provide a good clean painted edge along the entire window. I then wire brushed inside the groove as best I could. After that was complete I used rust combining primer followed by spray paint. I followed that with a bead of black polyurethane sealant.

My thoughts are:
The windshield is bedded into a polyurethane sealant.
The fancy trim piece catches muck and debris so it contributes to the deterioration.
I couldn't properly clean out the groove channel to bare metal for proper painting.
Even if I could, the rust likely penetrates under the sealant bedding already.
MB uses the rubber trim strip for ease of installation and looks, not for additional seal integrity.
An added bead of polyurethane sealed to the newly painted edge of the metal should shed and keep water out.
The bead of polyurethane will allow enough movement of the glass for temperature differences.
The water may still migrate into the original rubber trim seal "U" shaped glass holder, but it shouldn't get past the OEM sealant or the new bead. (That is a bit of a guess.)

Come spring I am going to do the same poly sealant treatment to the bottom area. That will require removing the hood completely for proper access. (I didn't remove the hood. See below.)

A more severe approach to the rubber trim material might be to completely remove the "U" channel piece and all. That will expose the glass edge of the windshield. It will then allow the added bead of new poly to bond to the glass and the newly repaired surrounding metal. That may actually provide a better water barrier and solution than leaving the "U" rubber intact.

That said, here's some pictures. Some may want to try this also. vic

What I used to access the top area of the windshield. I wasn't able to just lean a ladder up to get there.

A01LadderAccess.jpg

The top area rust.

A02RustDamage.jpg

The cleaned and painted repaired groove. Notice how the groove shape lends itself to bead of sealant. The rubber piece is part of the strip I cut off to help show the size of it.

A04Repaired.jpg

A view of the side area sealant bead. I almost didn't post pictures of my caulking job. It is not very pretty. I couldn't find my normal radius end caulk finishing tools so I just used a straight blade chisel. Not great looking results, but it should be sealed properly.

A05SealantBead.jpg

The top bead of sealant. The edges are irregular and looks like crap, but no more leaking.

A06TopPolyBead.jpg

Edit: As of today 2014/01/13, 2015/07/21 20160117, 20170731 the repairs are holding just fine.
Added:
Dicor 551LSB-1 Non-Sag Lap Sealant - Black is one possible caulk/sealant to use around the windshield. It is commonly found in RV stores.

I used white Dicor on my 2006 rear windows.

Caulk Around Rear Windows
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=511169#post511169
 
Last edited:

220629

Well-known member
Bottom of the Windshield

This is another repair which may not appeal to everyone.

My 2004 windshield has a Pilkington label without the MB logo so it is safe to assume it was changed. Many people who have replacement windshields end up with rust. Care needs to be taken when removing and installing the windshield or paint damage sets up future rusting.

For my 2004 Standard Roof (HC) the windshield label info:

Pilkington
M477 AS1, DOT 140
E2 (Within a Circle)
#42R-001082.

I'm quite certain that there is darker tint on top, but it is dark out so I can't verify that. I have Air Conditioning.


My basic goal was to seal things up and provide a protective shield using Eternabond Tape to shed water down over the rusted areas. I did not remove the hood.

Some pictures of the ugliness.

First I removed the old rubber trim gasket to allow me to dig out some of the rust.

Passenger Side with Gasket pulled out.

001PassengerSide.jpg

Driver side showing how I pulled the gasket out with linesman pliers.

004DriverSide.jpg

The general rust.

002CenterArea.jpg

003CenterArea.jpg

Wiper removal. 13 mm nut on spline.

005WiperRemove.jpg
 
Last edited:

220629

Well-known member
From there I painted and filled the open channel with sealant. Starting to look better.

006Painted.jpg

007Sealed.jpg

Before the sealant cured I added Eternabond 2" Tape in two applications. The first was on the lower metal. The second strip sealed to the bottom 1/2" or so of the windshield and overlapped the first tape.

008Taped.jpg

009Taped2.jpg


The finished product.

010HoodClosed.jpg


Eternabond Tape isn't really cheap, but it worked well for this application. I used Duro-last Sealant that I had on hand to fill the channel. Good quality polyurethane sealant might even be better. The Duro-last was bit runny. It is all covered by the Eternabond tape anyway so the sealant won't see the sun. There were some bits of polyurethane sealant from the previous upper repair which I needed to remove. That removed sealant was still very stable and well adhered. The paint and metal underneath looked great.

I didn't think of it at the time. It occurred to me that a wallpaper seam roller would have been handy to press down and seal the Etrnabond Tape to the lower windshield edge. I mostly just used the back of my fingernails.

I was surprised that when I completely removed the lower rubber channel it did affect the lower windshield sealing. I know that because as I used air to blow out the channel a small piece of paper on the inside fluttered and moved up. So if the bottom rubber U shaped seal is removed, it needs to be replaced by a bead of sealant.

Another watchout. I cleaned the bottom of the windshield to prep for the Eternabond Tape. I used blue painter tape to mask off for painting and sealing. I sealed the channel and removed the blue tape. I didn't clean again before applying the Eternabond Tape. That may have been a mistake. I had a bit of trouble in one section getting the Eternabond Tape to stick to the windshield glass. All the rest sealed fine. If it gives me any trouble my fallback will be to add an overlap strip of Tedlar Tape along the Eternabond Tape upper edge for a better seal. I really don't think it will be necessary. That said, always clean again just before applying any Eternabond Tape.

http://www.amazon.com/EternaBond-RS...1417392407&sr=8-1&keywords=eternabond+tape+2"

2 ea. of these 10' rolls would do a windshield bottom. Shipping jacks up the price.

http://www.amazon.com/White-Eternab...1417392407&sr=8-6&keywords=eternabond+tape+2"

A better deal if you want some left over.

http://www.amazon.com/EternaBond-RS...pebp=1437490873960&perid=16V05VGSMPA4BZXRK22P

Using 4" tape is an option. I think that the wider tape will be more difficult to install so may not conform as well.

vic

20160117, 20171007, 20191108, 20200404 edit: The repairs are still ok. A new windshield wiper has managed to ding an edge of the Eternabond tape, but the seal has held.


Here's the link to the Brushtone Grey Painting Project.

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=329061#post329061

Added:

...

I would post an updated picture of the my 2014 repair as it looks today, but it is raining and the bottom of the windshield aka windscreen still looks the same today 20200404 as it did immediately following the fix.

The closed hood aka bonnet pretty much hides the repair. I painted the van gray, but haven't bothered to paint that bottom area still white repair.

:2cents: vic
 
Last edited:

220629

Well-known member
Thanks.

... That rust sure was ugly!
I let it go too long because I really didn't know what to do with that bottom damage. I knew that I could seal the windshield like I did the top, but that still left the ugly rust to continue down hill. To grind the rust out and get it to a point that it would last is no small project. There was no way that I was going to remove/replace the windshield.

The Eternabond Tape isn't perfect, but it covers all the sins rather well. The water won't get to most of the rusty areas anymore. The Eternabond white isn't far off from the OEM Arctic Whitewash color. My plan is to maybe paint it gray eventually, but it looks pretty good as is. It's mostly hidden behind the hood.

As I cleaned some ice from my windshield it occurred to me that anyone using this fix will need to avoid scraping near the bottom of the windshield. Hitting the tape with a scraper will just make it ugly. If the Eternabond Tape edge is damaged it isn't the end of the world because the sealant underneath will still keep out the water.

vic
 
Last edited:

312d

Member
Ohh, nasty. i also have a leak on a 2003 on the top side of the windshield, but i have planned to take off the windshield ( i have done that before on another van), and repaint. The rust i have is far less tan this, so i think it is better to be proactive here, before it continues eating the metal.
I always remember a saying that i learned here, " you never have time to do it right, but always have time to do it again".
i will sure post another write up when i start on that task.
 

312d

Member
Bottom of the Windshield


My 2004 windshield has a Pilkington label without the MB logo so it is safe to assume it was changed. Many people who have replacement windshields end up with rust. Care needs to be taken when removing and installing the windshield or paint damage sets up future
Exactly!, i have seen guys who replace windshields removing them with hammer and Wood chisels!!! bastards:mad::
They do not care if a couple years after, you end up all rotted. That was the reason i did it last time when the winshield cracked.
 

220629

Well-known member
Dealing with a Crack after the Hack Job repair.

A stone cracked my windshield on the lower right. I have glass coverage, but my hack job window repair is holding so I really don't want a windshield replacement. Given the known rust problems replacement will require doing a bunch of extra repair either before or after installation.

I noticed the crack when about 3 inches long. Unfortunately it got longer during deciding what to do. When I finally decided to drill a stop hole it had grown to about 6" long. I believe that it is just on the edge of not passing safety inspection.

I picked up a diamond drill for my Dremel tool at Home Depot. Drilling the stop hole was surprisingly easy. I had tried super glue previously so I don't think a repair kit will properly penetrate now.

Anyway, my recommendation for short(er) cracks is to not hesitate to drill a stop hole. It will give you time to decide on what course to take even if you don't do the full fledged commercially available glass repair mode.

A Google search will get details for drilling a stop hole.

:cheers: vic
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
I have had very good success stopping (and completely filling) cracks using the UV resin repair kits. With some skill, and good crack conditions, the crack can be made to disappear completely. Not bad for 15$.

http://amzn.to/2fZEXx7
 

glassrestorer

New member
Yep, My 05 sprinter has the same problem since the windshield was replaced. The guys doing the replacement can very easily scratch the paint off, and not fix it. Rust follows.

Barry
 

aspen

Member
Years ago I cleaned and repainted the lip
on which the windshield sits when the
windshield was out. Had new windshield installed
After I was done. The guys who had replaced
the windshield before I bought the van used a
Sawzall to remove old glass, I guessed by
the damage on interior pillar trim...and of course
I had rust bubbles on the bottom of the windshield
a year later.
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
Guys
For info, it is essential, and I mean essential to PRIME the surface of the windshield sealing flange AND the glass with a primer topically applied by 3M's. This allows the urethane to seal both surfaces and prevent water ingress and rust.

Now most of these windshield replacement companies do not do that because of cost and speed!

In fact I ordered one "glass monkey" working for a nationwide chain off the premises for doing crap work on a 2004 T1N van last week ! (Where do they find these animals.????) :thumbdown:

We have already had a run in with him over, I can't do this and I can't do that before, and he has earned himself a nickname of Senor No Puedo! (Mr I Can't!)
I spoke to his boss who is a long time friend of mine and I said during the conversation that I know it is hard to find good help, even semi skilled prima donnas, but you can find MEXICANS with a better on the job attitude and skill level than this wanker!
Be careful out there!
There are a lot of Youtube Graduates out there posing as SKILLED People and only there for the paycheck at the end of the week!
Many of them about as useful as tits on a boar!
Dennis
 

220629

Well-known member
For those owning an older rust bucket which probably isn't worth lots of repair/windshield removal effort.

All of the the fixes that I did to my 2004 as outlined above are working. The rust and leaks have been held at bay, The Eternabond white tape on the lower section looks good to the point that I don't believe it would be noticed on a white van.

There are a few new rust bubbles inches above the windshield in the OEM white roof that wasn't painted gray. I'll tend to those this spring. Added: I haven't touched them yet. They're still not a problem 20181119.

:2cents: vic
 
Last edited:

220629

Well-known member
Apparently I didn't drill my first glass stop hole right down to the plastic sandwich layer. That allowed the crack to start past that crack stop attempt. I drilled a second stop hole and felt the drill drop into the plastic layer.

I learned that the windshield crack UV cure resin repair works very well on fresh cracks. It helped on the old sections, but there was evidence of dirt in the cured resin. Based upon my one experience, drill a stop hole ASAP and deep enough to hit the plastic safety layer. Also apply any crack sealer ASAP. The UV cure stuff seems to work well.

https://www.amazon.com/Rain-X-600001-Windshield-Repair-Kit/dp/B00IPS4APU

Similar to my windshield repair, I used polyurethane type sealant all around on the rear windows of my 2006.

Re: Removing back windows for rust repair?
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=511169#post511169

vic

Added:
It's my understanding that the windshield bedding compounds are a specialty sealant.

For my various repairs I often use Sikaflex brand polyurethane products. More recently I have used some Dicor non-sag products that were left over from my travel trailer repairs. Non-sag as opposed to self-leveling. The Dicor products have a good reputation.

As an aside. While making a tint cutting template for my rear doors I discovered that my 2006 FL passenger side rear glass was never properly seated into the window recess. That prevented the bedding compound from bonding to the glass. The other window, and both windows on my 2004 are tighter against the metal frame. The resulting leakage caused that window frame to rust out on the inside ledge.

It seems that my external Dicor sealant repair may have been the best solution to the problem.

vic
 
Last edited:

Stani

2002 Freightliner Sprinter 158" Camper Van
Great job on the repair, but i might add that when drilling into the first layer of glass you don't want to go through the first layer completely and into the plastic sheet in between. My understanding and experience is that drilling halfway into the first layer of glass and then tapping lightly with a dull punch will create the widest bulls eye that will freeze the crack from going further, once the resin is applied.

I was chasing a crack for over twelve inches before, an inch at a time, because i neglected to apply the resin into the crack, that was about 6 or 7 holes that are in the windshield. But after applying resin the cracking seems to have abated for now.
 

Geoff_Glenn

2005 Dodge Sprinter 118''
I had this issue quite bad living close to the ocean, my windshield rusted so bad it cracked!

I was dreading getting it fixed by the bodyshop, $1500 plus windshield and paint, and I was lamenting to my neighbor, and he had his toyota rust out, and he ended up going to the truck bedliner guy. I followed suit, and he did a nice 3" bead in black all the way around, all the rust damage he ground down, and filled all the voids with the bedliner material, and the had the windshield guy replace, cost around $750 out the door with repair, bedliner, and new windshield. It's been about 2 years and still running solid! I guess the material is hot polyurethane, and it's pretty darn bulletproof. I'm contemplating doing the entire van, he quoted me 2K to do the entire thing in a custom color, and you can pick a texture as well.

2005 Dodge 118" WB
 

Rocketgurl

2005 2500 158 crew conv.
Hey guys - we recently purchased an 05 T1N 2500, which has some rust around the windshield. Inspired by this thread, we decided to try our hands at an improvement to hopefully slow down the cancer. Currently we are not experiencing any leaking, and I know the windshield was replaced just before we purchased.

I started the project yesterday and the first thing I did differently was to only cut off the rubber flange that protects the gutter around the windshield. The gutter looks like it's in decent shape - not that I could get any tool I currently own in there to grind it out - but I also wanted to leave the rubber gasket around the windshield in tact. _No photos of this, so I hope my description makes sense_

I used a wire brush on a drill. I didn't plan to get to clean metal, I plan to use Rustoleum and then cover with Dicor and Eternabond.

Here's what the bottom of the windshield looked like after I removed the rubber flange and before I started grinding: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1yiUhLKpff1LyZ9drxMMsvkdQhM2n375b

Here's after grinding: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DHBWRPgYm8Y9VGcALY3z5vzXK7GyUH2i

I will eventually treat the entire windshield, but wanted to start at the bottom where it's the worst.

What do you guys (& especially Vic, who inspired our project!) think about this plan? -->
Rustoleum on the entire surface under the windshield and everywhere there is exposed rust.
Dicor caulk in the groove.
Eternabond tape starting in the groove and wrapping around the front of the metal under the windshield. Not on the windshield, since I left the rubber gasket in place.

Then, do the same approach on the sides and eventually the top.

Thanks in advance for all of your thoughts and opinions!
 
Without removing your windshield, you are missing the majority of rust behind the glass on the lip.

A couple of years ago, I had only had a couple of visible bubbles in the paint around the windshield. Due to a truck thrown rock my windshield was cracked. Once the glass was taken out, there was rust around most of the perimeter.

My favorite local body shop ground off the whole lip area down to the metal. He knew that Sprinters were notorious for this same hidden cancer. Several layers of primer, followed by several layers of matching paint, and followed that up with several layers of clear finish.

Removing the glass is the only way to stop what is out of sight and rotting beneath the windshield. Do it once, or be back later to remove the glass the right way.
 

220629

Well-known member
... Do it once, or be back later to remove the glass the right way.
My experience would show otherwise as to longevity. It will last 5 years ... 6 years ... likely more.

The repair that I outline was done September/October 2012. It is still looking good and holding fine 6 years later.

How many more years do you think some people are going to get out of these old T1N's? The cost and effort of windshield removal, professional rust repair, and re-install of the windshield could exceed the actual value of a T1N.

:2cents: vic
 
Last edited:

Top Bottom