I hit a deer! What's the best way to fix the van?

kentonius

enough to be dangerous...
So it looks like replacement parts are not too hard to come by. It's just finding the inside metal cut from a donor van. Any ideas?
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
Well pretty straight forward and removing it from a donor van.
The inner structure is spot welded to the body & frame rail structure and if you want a nice undetectable repair you simply unpick it and spot weld in the doner part.

If you have a localized crippled area to fix you can of course simply do a cut and seam weld it into the van as a donor patch repair. It can look a bit unsightly unless you are good at tin bashing.
Mig /Tig of course is the usual weld method, however I was taught to employ the tin-man's weld technique using a #1 oxy/acetylene jet and 2 lbs max of gas pressure. This 1st World War era weld method leaves the seam almost undetectable against the modern Mig./ Tig methods. This is still employed in India manufacturing Royal Enfield motorcycle fuel tanks.

We always have a few donor van out the back which we harvest repair section(s) from for out shop collision repair such as you are attempting. It shouldn't be too hard to find a scrap van for a repair part or "cut" as we call it.
Just a tip!
Do an offer up your repair section and temporary bolt the whole structure together including the hood, fenders, radiator core support etc etc to get your fit & finish right before spot welding it all together.
Best of luck
Dennis
 

kentonius

enough to be dangerous...
Well pretty straight forward and removing it from a donor van.
The inner structure is spot welded to the body & frame rail structure and if you want a nice undetectable repair you simply unpick it and spot weld in the doner part.

If you have a localized crippled area to fix you can of course simply do a cut and seam weld it into the van as a donor patch repair. It can look a bit unsightly unless you are good at tin bashing.
Mig /Tig of course is the usual weld method, however I was taught to employ the tin-man's weld technique using a #1 oxy/acetylene jet and 2 lbs max of gas pressure. This 1st World War era weld method leaves the seam almost undetectable against the modern Mig./ Tig methods. This is still employed in India manufacturing Royal Enfield motorcycle fuel tanks.

We always have a few donor van out the back which we harvest repair section(s) from for out shop collision repair such as you are attempting. It shouldn't be too hard to find a scrap van for a repair part or "cut" as we call it.
Just a tip!
Do an offer up your repair section and temporary bolt the whole structure together including the hood, fenders, radiator core support etc etc to get your fit & finish right before spot welding it all together.
Best of luck
Dennis
Dennis - do you happen to have a "cut" that I could purchase from you?

Thanks for all the tips too!
 

desertdog

Member
This is a good time to ask. Would an Aluminess front bumper save the day? They are expensive, $2500. I know Midwestdrifter nailed a deer and ended up fabricating a heavy duty bumper after the accident. Any opinions?
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
Dennis - do you happen to have a "cut" that I could purchase from you?

Thanks for all the tips too!
Yes of course call into the shop.
720 344 1877.
Scotti my service writer will pick up and she will find me to get an idea of what you need.
As I have posted previously I don't personally use the forum to sell parts directly.
Cheers Dennis
 

smcguyer

2006 3500 Cab chassis. With 12' Box.
Somewhat off topic, but has anyone ever filled in behind the plastic bumper with some higher density spray foam, like titefoam? After covering the metal frame with saran wrap. The foam would absorb some of the impact ...in theory. Perhaps limiting some trauma to the frame. Additionally, one might extend the bumper forward, maybe with rubber bushings, to increase the thickness of the foam.
 

Top Bottom