Comments on Wire Diagram
- Thread starter Kre72771
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BrennWagon
He’s just this guy, you know?
Looks pretty though and well thought out to me. My only note is that you could probably go with a higher gauge wire for some of your lighter loads if you’re trying to save a few pennies but more is better when it comes to running wires, you never know what circuit you might tap into in the future. ?
ranchworld
'06 158 2500 Passenger
Was the 4 gauge wire to the 100 amp winch based on distance to the winch as well as current draw? Including return path? A winch is a big inductive load.
I don't know of any 100 amp LiFe batteries that are designed to run a 1000 watt inverter and not run the risk of tripping the BMS. Consider instead to have 2 of them or use a good AGM battery.
All of your small wires should more ideally be 10 awg.
The heavier wires would be better as 1/0, but at least 2 awg.
100 watts of solar is just a trickle charge. For a panel that size, expect about (100 watts) x (50%) x 6 hrs / day) = 300 watt-hrs of charging, so not much. It won't even keep up with the refrigerator, which in my mind is a key minimum.
All of your small wires should more ideally be 10 awg.
The heavier wires would be better as 1/0, but at least 2 awg.
100 watts of solar is just a trickle charge. For a panel that size, expect about (100 watts) x (50%) x 6 hrs / day) = 300 watt-hrs of charging, so not much. It won't even keep up with the refrigerator, which in my mind is a key minimum.
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Midwestdrifter
Engineer In Residence
Trojan trillium can, they use a true relay, not a solid state one.
The latest Trojan trillium data sheet on the Group27 110AH battery went from 300A continuous discharge down to 110A. They must have had trouble at the higher current. Of course the spec changed after I bought 10 of them.
Midwestdrifter
Engineer In Residence
The current specs are below. I would be curious if the 250A for 30 seconds is enforced by timer? Or just by internal temps? I would bet at 150A you could get 10+ minutes.
Maximum Continuous Discharge Current @ 77°F (25°C) 110A
Maximum Pulse Discharge Current @ 77°F (25°C) 250A for 30 seconds
Maximum Instantaneous Discharge Current 500A
Maximum Continuous Discharge Current @ 77°F (25°C) 110A
Maximum Pulse Discharge Current @ 77°F (25°C) 250A for 30 seconds
Maximum Instantaneous Discharge Current 500A
ctmcdaniel
Cross Member
Bump the battery up to 150 amp, and add induction portable stove. On my stuff I do 14 and 12 guage for low and high draw small circuits. If your moving everyday then 100 watts is ok. I'll assume you can monitor the battery with a Bluetooth app. Do you need the shore charger?
Not sure if it is timer based. I probably could test, but have 200A MRBF fuses (and BlueSea SW) on each battery in the bank. Mainly did this to isolate, since the Firmware in the batteries turn on the internal contactor when a outside voltage is present.... i.e. all paralleled batteries are on and can't be turned off. Didn't realize this when I bought them, but probably good for safety and control
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Midwestdrifter
Engineer In Residence
If you have the model with CAnbus, you could pretty easily program an Arduino to turn batteries on/off at will.
Wish I could; would be fun....but the Trillium 110AH GP27 doesn't have the bus.
My 10X fuse+SW is probably overkill...but makes me happy and I can play a bit
Midwestdrifter
Engineer In Residence
My question is, can that aluminum bus handle 2,000 amps of fault current? Hard to tell, but it may just vaporize...
It is .25 X 1.5 Silver Plated Copper; but question still valid. The two neg bus bars are split so only 1000amps there
Did the best I could and have a physical center cover over the 10 switches. Also at the end of the center positive buss is a Class T 350A fuse to help the problem.The Trojan spec allows for 20 in parallel. Most don't use fuses or switches for each battery so that is 500A X 20 = 10000A. I sure didn't want that
I have 6 levels of battery safety:
1) Internal Trojan Volt/Temp/Current BMS with contactor
2) Seperate MRBF fuse (200A) and SW on each Battery.
3) Class T and main SW at combined bus and another before Xantrex SW3012
4) GX14 contactor on combined bus controlled by Victron BMV712 (buffered by FET ckt). This is my main standalone full bank disconnect.
5) SW3012 programmable volt/temp alarms and shutdown.
6) Xantrex programmable AutoGenStart voltage levels.
Kevin.Hutch
2011 Mercedes 313 906
Looks fine, I drew it out to look closely found minor discrepancies with the fuse block (10 fuses) and loads (11). if you want I can update as required.
I had a hiccup with file sizes so now I've added drawings of my sprinter as well.
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Midwestdrifter
Engineer In Residence
A few notes. Charging a lithium battery to ~14.6V is okay, but only if the charger STOPS immediately when hitting 14.6V (absorb) voltage). Sitting there for 30 minutes or more just ages the battery unnecessarily. Also, Float voltages of 13.3V or greater are going to age the battery by holding it at high capacity. Your better off with lower voltages, even if it sacrifices a bit of capacity at the top.
Note that most Voltage Sensing Relays (also called automatic charging relays) won't work properly with a lithium battery in the mix. Their voltage setpoints are too low for lithium, (typically around 12.9V connect). Which means they will not open to disconnect the banks, until the lithium pack is below 50%.
Note that most Voltage Sensing Relays (also called automatic charging relays) won't work properly with a lithium battery in the mix. Their voltage setpoints are too low for lithium, (typically around 12.9V connect). Which means they will not open to disconnect the banks, until the lithium pack is below 50%.
It’s best to use a 12v relay attached to the BMS with the load(inverter) connected to the battery thru the relay...