Ignition lock housing replacement

99sport

Well-known member
I could not find a good write up on how to remove the ignition switch (not the lock cylinder or the electrical contacts, but the actual mechanism). I had two problems with my ignition switch – the door chime was on whenever the doors were open (unrelated to whether the key was in the ignition) and my cylinder could turn with any key (lock cylinder was worn out). I ordered a new lock cylinder with my VIN from the dealer, and replacement was a 5 minute job – and this SHOULD have fixed everything – which it did for about 30 seconds. Except that after verifying a key from another car would no longer turn the cylinder, the correct key would not either (lock housing also worn out). So my 5 minute fix turned into major surgery. The pictures below explain the saga.

The service manual makes no mention of how to remove this part, so I thought I would do a write up. Many years ago I replaced the steering column on my Civic with a tilit column from Craigslist. Thankfully the Honda manuals describe how to remove the ignition lock – the key insight to this process is that the lock is held on with bolts that have a hex head that is snapped off during the installation process. You can order new safety bolts from the dealer, but I just replaced them with metric bolts from a leftover Honda project as I am not worried about someone taking apart my steering column.

The pictures tell (I hope) how to remove the lock and how it works. For those of you who have the door chime on all the time, the lock cylinder is indeed the culprit. Some WD20 and a few blows with the hammer to the plastic tab on the front of my lock cylinder “fixed” it so that the chime works normally now. The chime is NOT related to the large, round electrical connector on the back of the switch – see pictures for details.

Closest prior thread I could find: https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80934
 

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