My wife bought this motorhome so we could drive from Tarpon Springs, FL to Boulder, CO with my family to attend my oldest son's wedding in March of 2014. I'm writing you about my experiences both getting the motorhome prepared for the trip and during the trip.
First off I would like to bring your attention to numerous flaws and deficiencies I discovered during the preparation associated with construction.
Flaw-1) All the drawers were constructed with bare, uncoated birch like plywood. Here in Florida the humidity is 99% most of the time and the drawers would not last long. Also they were only stapled together and not glued. The roads we traveled were bumpy as hell and the drawers would not have lasted two trips. The slides were only held on by two screws per side, not enough in my opinion. I glued & varnished all the drawers and added more screws in the slides.
Flaw-2) The plastic DC switch control panel inside the door was screwed on with screws without any finish washers, cracking and breaking off one of the corners. I replaced them with stainless steel screws and finish washers after gluing the corner back on.
Flaw-3) The cubby over the fridge. The video switcher was mounted right in the bottom middle allowing no room hardly for any game console or other video device. I flipped the mounting brackets and mounted it to the ceiling in the cubby allowing plenty of room underneath for electronics. The two outlets in there, one for the microwave and the other on the GFI general AC circuit. I couldn’t figure out why the microwave was plugged into the general outlet until I looked on the breaker cover. The electric water heater was on the same circuit as the microwave. Those two appliances exceed the current rating and trip the breaker if the microwave and water heater are on at the same time. I ran a new wire for the microwave and landed it on it’s own breaker.
Flaw-4) Almost all the Type-F coax connectors on the video cables were installed wrong. Many had the shield fine wires wrapped around the center conductor effectively shorting out the video signal. I’m a retired broadcast engineer so I knew when the TV’s started to flake out what to look for. I re-installed all the connectors in the motorhome.
Flaw-5) The GFI outlet in the bathroom was installed on an extension pushing it out into the leg of anyone using the toilet. Not only was this annoying but anyone with a damp or wet leg would trip the GFI breaker. I removed the extension and flush mounted it, I’m a retired electrician and electronic technician as well.
Flaw-6) The steps bowed down on one side, further investigation discovered a loose 3/8” carriage bolt mounting bolt, tightened and all was then well.
Flaw-7) The rear ladder would bend in the fiberglass back lower section while climbing to the roof. When I decided it needed a support from the frame out to the behind the ladder, I discovered there already was one, mounted 1” away. I loosened the mounting bolt and slid it out to contact the back.
Flaw-8) The generator exhaust tail pipe support was out contacting the fiberglass causing severe vibrations, I loosened it on the tailpipe and slide it back 1/2” and all is well now.
Flaw-9) This is the most serious. While installer connecting the front dash mounted DVD/radio Video denial wire to the emergency brake switch the installers pulled the connectors off the switch disabling the dash EMER BRAKE ON light. When we switched drivers in Texas on the way home the brake was left half on and it seems the emergency brakes no longer function well and the handle pulls all the way up. This needs to be fixed ASAP.
Flaw-10) The cowl under the side door to the right was missing a screw to the frame. I installed a screw and it’s okay now.
Flaw-11) The stereo system was installed with a drill-driver that marred and dug the mounting holes all to hell. I smoothed them out and installed it with better screws. Also the radio didn’t work, the antenna wire was all wrapped up behind the radio, I stretched it down the wall but reception is not very good still.
Flaw-12) The skylight “closed” micro switch was misadjusted. When you closed it the motor would continue to run with click-click-click, I adjusted it and all is well now.
Flaw-13) The flat head screws holding the latches on the storage bay under the bed were not stainless steel and were rusted, ready to run brown lines down the outside wall. I replaced them with stainless steel screws and all is better.
Flaw-14) The outside LED TV mounting screws were all stripped out, the TV fell off during the bouncy drive across Texas. I replaced them with a size larger and stainless steel as well. Seems to be okay now.
Flaw-15) The toilet is mounted about 4” too high, my wife being a short woman, her feet don’t reach the floor while using it.
Flaw-16) The rooftop TV antenna is mounted too close to the rooftop AC unit. The installation instructions require more than the 1 foot or so for proper operation. Does anyone read these installation instructions? AIR TV reception sucks.
Flaw-17) battery box step latch came off, screws were stripped out. Replaced with stainless screws one size larger.
Flaw-18) The bathroom door has no stop on it, it opens about 3/4” from the mirror on the built-in armoire. A good swing and it could put the doorknob right through the mirror.
Flaw-19) 12v light switches screwed into 1/8” paneling didn’t last long. I glued 3/8” plywood backing behind any switch I found this way. All switches are nice and solid now and won’t fall out.
Flaw-20) While on my back underneath the motorhome I observed numerous areas of the steel motorhome support frame were rusted from being unpainted. Some around the storage bays below the bottom edge of the bay doors especially. The black iron LPG manifold really needs a coat of paint, it is all rusty. My last project for this motorhome is to touch-up paint the rusted supports underneath.
Flaw-21) The storage bay door latch under the outside LED TV has two broken screws in an attempt to secure the latch. There is one screw holding this latch on and it’s the wrong type of “zip screw”. I will need to drill out and install two proper screws.
Flaw-22) During our stay in Golden, CO the temperature dropped to 17 degrees that night, when the kids which we let stay in the master bed decided to get some fresh air in the middle of the night by opening the window a crack, that allowed freezing cold air to blow in from under the slide-out living/dining room. It seems something outside needs to be better sealed up.
*** UPDATED JUNE/2014 ***
FLAW-23) The power went out completely. Found burned wire nuts on the auto-transfer relay mounted in the far rear passenger side tool bay. Seems the relay came with ultra-fine stranded 6" whips which were attached to #10 AWG solid wires from the genset and standard fine stranded wire on the shore power cord using wire nuts. Not good, ultra-fine stranded wire requires crimp connectors and this is why. They loosen and arc and burn.
FLAW-24) Very bad, while camping in North Fort Myers, FL at an RV park with NO TREES out in the direct sun the inside of the RV got up to 101 degrees WITH THE AC RUNNING FULL TILT. Outside temp was around 95 degrees in the shade, which there was none. I suspected the whole front fibreglas overhang was lacking insulation but I never thought that there would be NO INSULATION AT ALL, just bare fibreglas. While in Boulder, CO in March we had a 17 degree morning and I got top bunk, with my feet pressed all the way front my toes were almost frostbit. I just last week took all the inside plastic panels out and insulated the whole front section. The AC works much better now even in the direct sun.
FLAW-25) The seal above the slide was stapled to a 6ft strip of wood which lasted only 4 or 5 retracts before it folded under and ripped off letting much heat in from the 1" gap above the slide. I glued a 6.5' piece of 3/4" foam pipe insulation on the sldie and it makes an air-tight seal now. I still get some air from under the slide from the open ends of the slide channel outside under the slide but two 5" pieces of pool-noodles jammed in there after the slide is out seals it nicely. It's a hassle to do it every time but works for now.
The Parking brakes are gone completely and I need to get the shoes replaced soon. This was due to the installer putting in the new indash DVD player trying to hook up the DVD denial wire to the parking brake switch, they pulled the wires off the switch and left them under the carpet. When we switched drivers on our first trip my son left the parking brake half on. The Mercedes Diesel has more than enough power to burn off those brakes.
The stock horn was whimpy so I installed a complete air system and a real air horn under the hood. boy is it LOUD but hey, it gets the buzzards out of the road FAST!
I have spent a lot of time tweeking our new RV, added a 5.1 home theater system, network and a 4TB Hard drive NAS system loaded with movies. I put an outlet on the side of the stove to plug in the toaster & coffee pot & Blender. I added and outlet by the front door with an LED night lite to lite up the stairs in the dark and lets you see the loft ladder in the night.
I added a 1500 Inverter and split the buss on the RV 120V breaker box with half on the inverter and the rest on shore power (The A/C, Electric water heater and Microwave need more than 1500W to run so they are not on the inverter)
The inverter lets us run the AC outlets and fridge on AC power while driving or without shore power. This lets us use standard power supplies on our laptop and Ion filter fan while driving as well.
First off I would like to bring your attention to numerous flaws and deficiencies I discovered during the preparation associated with construction.
Flaw-1) All the drawers were constructed with bare, uncoated birch like plywood. Here in Florida the humidity is 99% most of the time and the drawers would not last long. Also they were only stapled together and not glued. The roads we traveled were bumpy as hell and the drawers would not have lasted two trips. The slides were only held on by two screws per side, not enough in my opinion. I glued & varnished all the drawers and added more screws in the slides.
Flaw-2) The plastic DC switch control panel inside the door was screwed on with screws without any finish washers, cracking and breaking off one of the corners. I replaced them with stainless steel screws and finish washers after gluing the corner back on.
Flaw-3) The cubby over the fridge. The video switcher was mounted right in the bottom middle allowing no room hardly for any game console or other video device. I flipped the mounting brackets and mounted it to the ceiling in the cubby allowing plenty of room underneath for electronics. The two outlets in there, one for the microwave and the other on the GFI general AC circuit. I couldn’t figure out why the microwave was plugged into the general outlet until I looked on the breaker cover. The electric water heater was on the same circuit as the microwave. Those two appliances exceed the current rating and trip the breaker if the microwave and water heater are on at the same time. I ran a new wire for the microwave and landed it on it’s own breaker.
Flaw-4) Almost all the Type-F coax connectors on the video cables were installed wrong. Many had the shield fine wires wrapped around the center conductor effectively shorting out the video signal. I’m a retired broadcast engineer so I knew when the TV’s started to flake out what to look for. I re-installed all the connectors in the motorhome.
Flaw-5) The GFI outlet in the bathroom was installed on an extension pushing it out into the leg of anyone using the toilet. Not only was this annoying but anyone with a damp or wet leg would trip the GFI breaker. I removed the extension and flush mounted it, I’m a retired electrician and electronic technician as well.
Flaw-6) The steps bowed down on one side, further investigation discovered a loose 3/8” carriage bolt mounting bolt, tightened and all was then well.
Flaw-7) The rear ladder would bend in the fiberglass back lower section while climbing to the roof. When I decided it needed a support from the frame out to the behind the ladder, I discovered there already was one, mounted 1” away. I loosened the mounting bolt and slid it out to contact the back.
Flaw-8) The generator exhaust tail pipe support was out contacting the fiberglass causing severe vibrations, I loosened it on the tailpipe and slide it back 1/2” and all is well now.
Flaw-9) This is the most serious. While installer connecting the front dash mounted DVD/radio Video denial wire to the emergency brake switch the installers pulled the connectors off the switch disabling the dash EMER BRAKE ON light. When we switched drivers in Texas on the way home the brake was left half on and it seems the emergency brakes no longer function well and the handle pulls all the way up. This needs to be fixed ASAP.
Flaw-10) The cowl under the side door to the right was missing a screw to the frame. I installed a screw and it’s okay now.
Flaw-11) The stereo system was installed with a drill-driver that marred and dug the mounting holes all to hell. I smoothed them out and installed it with better screws. Also the radio didn’t work, the antenna wire was all wrapped up behind the radio, I stretched it down the wall but reception is not very good still.
Flaw-12) The skylight “closed” micro switch was misadjusted. When you closed it the motor would continue to run with click-click-click, I adjusted it and all is well now.
Flaw-13) The flat head screws holding the latches on the storage bay under the bed were not stainless steel and were rusted, ready to run brown lines down the outside wall. I replaced them with stainless steel screws and all is better.
Flaw-14) The outside LED TV mounting screws were all stripped out, the TV fell off during the bouncy drive across Texas. I replaced them with a size larger and stainless steel as well. Seems to be okay now.
Flaw-15) The toilet is mounted about 4” too high, my wife being a short woman, her feet don’t reach the floor while using it.
Flaw-16) The rooftop TV antenna is mounted too close to the rooftop AC unit. The installation instructions require more than the 1 foot or so for proper operation. Does anyone read these installation instructions? AIR TV reception sucks.
Flaw-17) battery box step latch came off, screws were stripped out. Replaced with stainless screws one size larger.
Flaw-18) The bathroom door has no stop on it, it opens about 3/4” from the mirror on the built-in armoire. A good swing and it could put the doorknob right through the mirror.
Flaw-19) 12v light switches screwed into 1/8” paneling didn’t last long. I glued 3/8” plywood backing behind any switch I found this way. All switches are nice and solid now and won’t fall out.
Flaw-20) While on my back underneath the motorhome I observed numerous areas of the steel motorhome support frame were rusted from being unpainted. Some around the storage bays below the bottom edge of the bay doors especially. The black iron LPG manifold really needs a coat of paint, it is all rusty. My last project for this motorhome is to touch-up paint the rusted supports underneath.
Flaw-21) The storage bay door latch under the outside LED TV has two broken screws in an attempt to secure the latch. There is one screw holding this latch on and it’s the wrong type of “zip screw”. I will need to drill out and install two proper screws.
Flaw-22) During our stay in Golden, CO the temperature dropped to 17 degrees that night, when the kids which we let stay in the master bed decided to get some fresh air in the middle of the night by opening the window a crack, that allowed freezing cold air to blow in from under the slide-out living/dining room. It seems something outside needs to be better sealed up.
*** UPDATED JUNE/2014 ***
FLAW-23) The power went out completely. Found burned wire nuts on the auto-transfer relay mounted in the far rear passenger side tool bay. Seems the relay came with ultra-fine stranded 6" whips which were attached to #10 AWG solid wires from the genset and standard fine stranded wire on the shore power cord using wire nuts. Not good, ultra-fine stranded wire requires crimp connectors and this is why. They loosen and arc and burn.
FLAW-24) Very bad, while camping in North Fort Myers, FL at an RV park with NO TREES out in the direct sun the inside of the RV got up to 101 degrees WITH THE AC RUNNING FULL TILT. Outside temp was around 95 degrees in the shade, which there was none. I suspected the whole front fibreglas overhang was lacking insulation but I never thought that there would be NO INSULATION AT ALL, just bare fibreglas. While in Boulder, CO in March we had a 17 degree morning and I got top bunk, with my feet pressed all the way front my toes were almost frostbit. I just last week took all the inside plastic panels out and insulated the whole front section. The AC works much better now even in the direct sun.
FLAW-25) The seal above the slide was stapled to a 6ft strip of wood which lasted only 4 or 5 retracts before it folded under and ripped off letting much heat in from the 1" gap above the slide. I glued a 6.5' piece of 3/4" foam pipe insulation on the sldie and it makes an air-tight seal now. I still get some air from under the slide from the open ends of the slide channel outside under the slide but two 5" pieces of pool-noodles jammed in there after the slide is out seals it nicely. It's a hassle to do it every time but works for now.
The Parking brakes are gone completely and I need to get the shoes replaced soon. This was due to the installer putting in the new indash DVD player trying to hook up the DVD denial wire to the parking brake switch, they pulled the wires off the switch and left them under the carpet. When we switched drivers on our first trip my son left the parking brake half on. The Mercedes Diesel has more than enough power to burn off those brakes.
The stock horn was whimpy so I installed a complete air system and a real air horn under the hood. boy is it LOUD but hey, it gets the buzzards out of the road FAST!
I have spent a lot of time tweeking our new RV, added a 5.1 home theater system, network and a 4TB Hard drive NAS system loaded with movies. I put an outlet on the side of the stove to plug in the toaster & coffee pot & Blender. I added and outlet by the front door with an LED night lite to lite up the stairs in the dark and lets you see the loft ladder in the night.
I added a 1500 Inverter and split the buss on the RV 120V breaker box with half on the inverter and the rest on shore power (The A/C, Electric water heater and Microwave need more than 1500W to run so they are not on the inverter)
The inverter lets us run the AC outlets and fridge on AC power while driving or without shore power. This lets us use standard power supplies on our laptop and Ion filter fan while driving as well.
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