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Old 01-20-2014, 07:15 PM   #1
Jb1rd73
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Default Severe rust/ full floor replacement

Well I just got back from the body shop with a near $3500 (most likely will hit the $4000 mark by the time they are finished) estimate for rust repair on my 06 140 HR. They are going to have to replace the entire rear floor section and roll pan at rear doors along with new inner wheel wells. Its a little bit more than the original $2000 they quoted before I took out the factory wood floor but it will be worth it to stop the cancer from destroying an otherwise bomber rig!!!!!!
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Old 01-20-2014, 09:07 PM   #2
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Default Re: Severe rust/ full floor replacement

I keep reading about rust problems with Sprinters... is this problem mainly in coastal regions or where salt is common on the roads (for snow control or dry lakes)?
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Old 01-21-2014, 12:21 AM   #3
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Default Re: Severe rust/ full floor replacement

Wow. We would love to see some pictures of that job!
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Old 01-21-2014, 01:09 AM   #4
Jb1rd73
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Default Re: Severe rust/ full floor replacement

Will def be taking pics but I'll need to figure out how to upload them.
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Old 01-21-2014, 02:06 AM   #5
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Default Re: Severe rust/ full floor replacement

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Originally Posted by Jb1rd73 View Post
Will def be taking pics but I'll need to figure out how to upload them.
Pictures would be great.

Some info on posting them is here.

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23778

I believe that the road salt in my area has hurt my Sprinter. I'm familiar with the salt grinding away at my vehicles in places like rocker panels, door bottoms, brake lines, etc. In my over 45 years of vehicle ownership driving around Western New York I have never owned a vehicle which has rusted high on the sides as my 2004 Sprinter has. The paint just begins to bubble out of nowhere with no visible fractures or outside paint damage. I do need to admit that so far the rocker panels and other traditionally rust damaged areas are holding up OK.

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Old 01-21-2014, 02:22 AM   #6
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Default Re: Severe rust/ full floor replacement

Will this shop guarantee the repair won't rust? I've looked into local body work to address my rear doors and rust spots, but most shops won't guarantee rust repairs, even if it comes back in the same place. I'm considering a whole body POR15 (or similar) treatment.
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Old 01-21-2014, 04:09 AM   #7
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Default Re: Severe rust/ full floor replacement

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Originally Posted by Karl2014 View Post
I keep reading about rust problems with Sprinters... is this problem mainly in coastal regions or where salt is common on the roads (for snow control or dry lakes)?
It is common where both salt is on the roads and the van is Arctic White, if just one of those two are present it is less likely.
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Old 01-21-2014, 04:31 PM   #8
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Default Re: Severe rust/ full floor replacement (pics)

Here are some pics after getting the factory flooring up and the bumper off, had to use a plasma cutter to get the spare tire free. (would have been SOL if I had gotten a flat) This is going to be a bit of a process and will post pics as I can. After talking with a fabricating buddy of mine I am going to look for a sprinter that has been in a front end collision and see if I can just cut out the rear clip. If not its to the body shop
Attached Images
File Type: jpg rustthresh.jpg (22.9 KB, 235 views)
File Type: jpg rustclose.jpg (34.6 KB, 220 views)
File Type: jpg rustww.jpg (22.8 KB, 221 views)
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Old 01-21-2014, 04:47 PM   #9
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Default Re: Severe rust/ full floor replacement

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Originally Posted by NelsonSprinter View Post
It is common where both salt is on the roads and the van is Arctic White, if just one of those two are present it is less likely.
Sure glad they use ground up lava instead of salt in my area. Wonder why arctic white is a problem? Maybe because majority are that color?
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Old 01-21-2014, 05:01 PM   #10
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Default Re: Severe rust/ full floor replacement (pics)

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Originally Posted by Jb1rd73 View Post
... had to use a plasma cutter to get the spare tire free. (would have been SOL if I had gotten a flat) ...
A couple years ago I had problems getting the tire rack to drop. Fortunately some penetrating oil and patience worked for me. Your's looks like it must have been much worse.

I wire brushed and greased eveything thinking it would not be a problem next time. Just last last November I dropped the spare down. I was surprised to find that it was again hard to turn the studs. I needed to run the stud out a bit and back in a few times to keep things from binding. I thought that the grease would avoid that.

Tough to tell from pictures, but.. The wheel wells could maybe saved. Are they rusted right through at the bases? The back area looks really nasty. Do you keep it near the coast?

Indian Harbor Beach. Nevermind.

Thanks for the pictures.

vic
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DAD NAS (N. Amer. Spec) 2004 140 2500 >330,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash Brush-tone Grey
2006 Freightliner 140 2500HC >183,000+ mi. Arctic Whitewash (Spotted Snow Leopard accents)
"My opinion and worth everything you'll never pay for it." assumed.
Anyone can hold the helm when the sea is calm. Publilius Syrus
"There are only 10 types of people in the world: Those who understand binary, and those who don't." HaWiiLuVeR
16 ounces of unnecessary prevention can be worth a pound of manure.

Last edited by Aqua Puttana; 01-21-2014 at 05:05 PM.
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