Dry fit of platform bed complete.I just got the parts for my fixed platform bed above rear garage and about to install...stealing a brilliant idea I saw on a youtube build and adapting to aluminum...using 1 5/8" aluminum slotted strut channel (vs more common steel strut from Home Depot to save weight). Commonly used to attach electrical, plumbing and mechanical to buildings. Much cheaper and stronger than 8020. Stuff is strong as hell. Gonna bolt two strut rails to the van walls with the channel facing inward, then 4 spanning strut runners sit on top of the rails with channel facing down and connect with basic unistrut hardware and corner connectors adding in some rubber spacers to allow a bit of flex. Gonna screw on 1x3 wood slats on the runners with ventilation spacing for mattress. Will hold the entire family and dog with no legs into garage plus provides an entire slot system on the bottom of the bed for mechanical and gear attachment!
Easy peasy. I should be into it for about $300.
Available at McMaster Carr and most electrical supply houses. McMaster has 6' and 6'8" lengths so you can order exactly just what you need and shipping was cheap...usually you have to buy it in 10' chunks.
https://www.mcmaster.com/struts
Dry fit of platform bed complete.
1 5/8" Aluminum Unistrut system which is less than half the weight off steel strut. Attached to side walls with only two RivNuts per side with PVC spacers providing a thermal break and still allows for plenty of flex in the van walls. Ended up with two legs down to deck and the back set bolted all the way to factory floor mount bolts holes vs fabricating more wall mounts and having the bed more rigidly locked to van walls and completely floating. Wound up with a great balance of strength and flexibility. Went with 1x3 poplar for stringers since it is actually lighter than 1/2" ply of same width and I didn't have to rip them.
This thing is rock solid and I placed the stringer struts channels facing down so I now have a complete strut system in entire garage for mounting mechanical and accessories.
May be overkill for some but super happy with outcome so far.
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Oh, that looks great!Dry fit of platform bed complete.
1 5/8" Aluminum Unistrut system which is less than half the weight off steel strut.
That can be found on any Unistrut selection guide.Oh, that looks great!
Do you know what the strength difference is between aluminum and steel Unistrut?
Aluminum does have a bit more flex than steel, but as noted, even with aluminum it is still overbuilt for bed stringers. But as I mentioned, that is also going to double as frame for mechanical and cabinets in the garage and now I can drop in an eye bolt and strut nut and have a tie down virtually anywhere in the garage since all the channels are facing inward as well as bolt racks and holders to the bottom of the bed for gear, which is typically a very under utilized space.Oh, that looks great!
Do you know what the strength difference is between aluminum and steel Unistrut?
Agreed. I did my first round of connectors in aluminum but went back to steel for changes and additions. Weight was negligible but cost was almost triple for connectors and those add up fast. Doing it over again I would do all aluminum strut and all steel connectors.Even with aluminum strut I would still use steel connecting angles/components to help to keep the costs down.
While that is on par from a local retail store cost for a full 10' stick, I was able to order direct from McMaster Carr online and they sell it in 6', 6'8", and 8' lengths so I was able to order almost exactly what I needed and had only inches of waste rather than feet. A 6' stick was only $35 and they can ship 8' long stock in a cardboard tube via UPS Ground and not have to pay excessive freight or oversized charges. I think I paid like $45 to ship it all. The shipping was way cheaper then paying for the waste since only 10' sticks were available from my local supplier.Be prepared for the shock though. The price of the aluminum Unistrut is significantly higher. 1 5/8 can be 80 bucks per length, 13/16" a bit less.
Thanks for the data!Be prepared for the shock though. The price of the aluminum Unistrut is significantly higher. 1 5/8 can be 80 bucks per length, 13/16" a bit less. Even with aluminum strut I would still use steel connecting angles/components to help to keep the costs down.
vic
Most electrical supply houses carry Unistrut as well. I would check out prices with them especially if you don’t have a McMaster location near you to save on freight. Local supply may be more flexible on price if they are higher than McMaster. Most probably won’t have aluminum or Ss channel but can order it and if you can wait to get it, tell them you can wait on a stock order to save on freight.Thanks for the data!
It seems that the price from McMaster isn't so bad...
https://www.mcmaster.com/strut-channel-systems
FWIW. vic...
Weight savings with steel.
Slotted 14 ga. 1 5/8 x 13/16" strut on edge could be used for cross supports. Again, plenty strong, a bit lighter than 1 5/8 x 1 5/8 standard steel. Less expensive than aluminum.
A P2341L fitting will bolt in the 1 5/8 x 13/16 on edge to a 1 5/8 x 1 5/8 or even a 1 5/8 x 13/16 ledger. Just orient the fitting properly.
https://www.unistrut.us/product-details/p2341
The bolted brackets and thinner 13/16" Unistrut should allow for the "flex" which I feel is needed.
vic
We have a 144 and still need to occasionally use the rear seat in 3rd row position, but wanted a quick way to set up bed. We made an expandable platform that than compresses to fit behind seat, and easily expands to fit queen size mattress. The idea borrows from AVs Moab Bed, but expands forward and aft. I welded two simple 16 x 66.5" aluminum frames. Then I welded angle on the shorter lateral supports to act as a sliding track for 1" square tubing that serves as a cross bar. I used 1/2" ply and tacked on router guides to cut a serpentine pattern. Each half of the plywood pattern is attached on one frame and one cross bar. When compressed, the width is 34" and the platform fits behind the 3rd row seat. When expanded, the width is about 50". I combine this with a fixed 16" frame to support a queen mattress. The platforms rest on 1" steel tubing and flatbar combo that is mounted to sides of van with plusnuts. I cut a 6" foam mattress from amazon, and made a cover that velcros pieces together. Pictures do a better job of describing set up.
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Hey Shawn, i know its been awhile since your bed build but do you have any pics or the video that you followed? Thanks so much MelanieI just got the parts for my fixed platform bed above rear garage and about to install...stealing a brilliant idea I saw on a youtube build and adapting to aluminum...using 1 5/8" aluminum slotted strut channel (vs more common steel strut from Home Depot to save weight). Commonly used to attach electrical, plumbing and mechanical to buildings. Much cheaper and stronger than 8020. Stuff is strong as hell. Gonna bolt two strut rails to the van walls with the channel facing inward, then 4 spanning strut runners sit on top of the rails with channel facing down and connect with basic unistrut hardware and corner connectors adding in some rubber spacers to allow a bit of flex. Gonna screw on 1x3 wood slats on the runners with ventilation spacing for mattress. Will hold the entire family and dog with no legs into garage plus provides an entire slot system on the bottom of the bed for mechanical and gear attachment!
Easy peasy. I should be into it for about $300.
Available at McMaster Carr and most electrical supply houses. McMaster has 6' and 6'8" lengths so you can order exactly just what you need and shipping was cheap...usually you have to buy it in 10' chunks.
https://www.mcmaster.com/struts
What size rivnuts, bolts, and washers did you end up using? I am in the process of building my platform out of unistrut right now. Now I'm thinking about vertical adjustability too...Unistrut/Superstrut Platflorm
Hi! I grabbed some ideas from this forum about a year ago and decided to go with unistrut/Superstrut for my bed platform. It was an easy and inexpensive path and is working very well. Super flexible for various configurations. I finally did a writeup on my new blog 907van.com. It's an ongoing project (both the van and the blog) so I'll add more details as I find time
I used M8 Rivnuts for mounting to the chasis. I also used washers with the M8 bolts since the holes in the struts are fairly large. Unfortunately, I could only find standard-size connectors for the struts so all of those strut-nuts and bolts are 3/8" - (I felt the 1/2" strut-nuts were a bit overkill).What size rivnuts, bolts, and washers did you end up using? I am in the process of building my platform out of unistrut right now. Now I'm thinking about vertical adjustability too...
Strut nuts and fasteners do come in 5/16" and 1/4" bolt sizes, but 3/8" is a fine choice. The 1/2" bolts could support the Queen Mary. I agree about overkill.I used M8 Rivnuts for mounting to the chasis. I also used washers with the M8 bolts since the holes in the struts are fairly large. Unfortunately, I could only find standard-size connectors for the struts so all of those strut-nuts and bolts are 3/8" - (I felt the 1/2" strut-nuts were a bit overkill).
This is great info!Aluminum loading ramps have been suggested. Here's one for under 100 bucks that can be adapted.
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Please add your ideas to make this thread more useful.
vic