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Old 11-11-2017, 02:49 PM   #921
hein
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

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Originally Posted by Tower4pe View Post
Hello Hein :)
Theresa "Rookie" here...building out my new 2017 144"...I am at the stage of installing the Thinsulate...so excited....and noticed you are the first picture to have the black side against the metal of the vehicle. Most of the "others" have pics installing it with spray adhesive with the white side to the metal....is there somewhere that states which way is correct?
The back side of the step well plastic has ribbing in it so the fiber side will expand into those spaces better than the scrim side. The performance (vs scrim in) in this the same in this situation since there are no large potentially resonant panels.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil2 View Post
Hein, Nice write up, as usual. But, why? I've heard of Sterling in techie circles but does this simply allow DC charging of house components (battery?) in a better manner or from your power plant instead of panels?
Yes, this is to increase the available charge current from the alternator to house bank while driving. This is helpful when the state of charge is lower (<80%) and the batteries can accept more current than our 200watt solar array can deliver.

Readers,
Please go back to page 92 to follow along on this upgrade project.

All the best,
Hein
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Last edited by hein; 11-11-2017 at 02:59 PM.
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Old 11-15-2017, 02:49 AM   #922
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

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Originally Posted by hein View Post
We've had some requests for slider door storage so will get that going.
Any word on the slider door storage piece?
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Old 11-15-2017, 02:59 AM   #923
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

It's been a busy year but I haven't forgotten about that. One hangup is that any added weight in the slider door will make it even more difficult to close.
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Old 11-30-2017, 10:52 PM   #924
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

I'm pretty keen to put an Isotemp slim 15 in the engine bay like you did. Did you move the windscreen washer reservoir? On my 2006 158", that is where the battery is.
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Old 11-30-2017, 11:04 PM   #925
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

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I'm pretty keen to put an Isotemp slim 15 in the engine bay like you did. Did you move the windscreen washer reservoir? On my 2006 158", that is where the battery is.
Ncv3 vans have the battery outside the engine compartment.

Moving the reservoir is a good idea. Plenty of other places it could go.
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Old 12-01-2017, 05:21 AM   #926
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

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Originally Posted by Wanted View Post
I'm pretty keen to put an Isotemp slim 15 in the engine bay like you did. Did you move the windscreen washer reservoir? On my 2006 158", that is where the battery is.
Yes, I moved it to the other side. I do have some extra brackets (same as shown below) but they only work on 2007+ NCV3 Sprinters with no DEF tank ahead of the RH front wheel.


More photos: https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...1&postcount=88
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Old 01-21-2018, 12:36 AM   #927
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

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Originally Posted by OrioN View Post
Only 10 series can be tapped as it has solid (not pre-holes) material, 15 series already has trapezoid voids that can't be tapped.

Using 10 series, I'd only tap one as the maximum dia. is abooot 0.1 inch, and only to the keep the bar from twisting, and in conjunction with the main or middle hole which offers very good fastening strength. Even using three tiny taps would not need my requirements for longevity.
FYI, 15 series can be tapped. They normally do it with a machine. I have done it by hand using a pre-drilled 1/4" plate clamped to the end of the extrusion. The plate holds the tap centered and guides it so the flutes don't drop into the slots in the extrusion.
Of course the easy way is to just buy a spiral machine tap instead of using a typical hand tap having 4 straight flutes (which causes the flutes to fall in the gaps in the extrusion).
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Old 03-17-2018, 09:35 PM   #928
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

We built our entire van interior and have cut a lot of things (from surfboards to aerospace composites) on our trusty Multicam MG204 CNC router. The machine is going strong but we needed more space in our main shop. So our barn became home to our new CNC router. Shown below cutting Sprinter speaker adapters and some other van parts. 13HP, 24,000 RPM spindle does mow material at an impressive rate. We've had the machine since last year but it has taken some time to move the production over.

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Old 03-18-2018, 04:05 PM   #929
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

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Originally Posted by nugget View Post
I'm doing a solar install and have everything but the entry pass through for the four
10 gauge wires from the panels. What is the best source for this item?
I've seen a clam shell (marine market) used, with sealant but most use a conventional bulkhead pt (2 part with grommet).
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Old 03-23-2018, 01:35 PM   #930
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Default Re: 2010 3500 RV build

Some of the components:



Have you had any issues with this charger or your previous charger causing check engine lights or other issues with the van or alternator?
I spoke with Sterling Power and he indicated that the amp draw of the charger exceeds the 40 amps that MB recommends and can cause issues. CYA maybe... Real world use is what I care about though.
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