Diesel Sprinter conversion air heater options and maintenance

SeattleNewbie

2013 NCV3 2500 170" WB
I'm researching the Espar D2 and Webasto 2000 air heater options for our diesel NCV3 conversion, and I'm concerned about the hefty price tags and the annual maintenance that needs to be done.

1. What does the maintenance involve?

2. Are there cheaper but reasonably reliable options aside from Espar and Webasto? (Snugger, Happybuy, ?)


:cheers:

I found these posts to be helpful:

- Cleaning: https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=419690&postcount=5
 
Last edited:

OrioN

2008 2500 170" EXT
I'm researching the Espar D2 and Webasto 2000 air heater options for our diesel NCV3 conversion, and I'm concerned about the hefty price tags and the annual maintenance that needs to be done.

1. What does the maintenance involve?

2. Are there cheaper but reasonably reliable options aside from Espar and Webasto?


:cheers:
Depending on how or how much you use an Espar, the yearly maintenance involves replacing a $7 glowpin fuel screen which takes less than an hour to do.
 

SeattleNewbie

2013 NCV3 2500 170" WB
Depending on how or how much you use an Espar, the yearly maintenance involves replacing a $7 glowpin fuel screen which takes less than an hour to do.
Really? There's no need for cleaning other components or disassembling / reassembling parts?

Are those stories from folks who used the D2 at high altitude without the needed kit?
 

Sunny&75

Active member
If anyone is interested, I have a very good connection with a dealer in Canada for the S2. About $800 delivered. PM me if you're interested.
 

gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
Really? There's no need for cleaning other components or disassembling / reassembling parts?
Are those stories from folks who used the D2 at high altitude without the needed kit?
2+ years of operating my D2 up to 8000 ft elevation and no maintenance required. Friends have similar experience.


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sprint2freedom

2008 NCV3 170ext
Really? There's no need for cleaning other components or disassembling / reassembling parts?
Really.

You'll need to make or buy a 12mm 6pt deep socket with a slot in it to remove the glow pin. It has a wire permanently attached that needs to hang out that slot while you spin the socket. Be sure to install the heater in a location you can access occasionally without too much pain.

I managed to go 3 winters before needing to replace the screen. As it gets sooted up, the D2 will gradually begin to have trouble igniting: it will sound like a normal start-up but then abruptly shut off before trying to start again several times, usually succeeding on the 2nd try, and eventually the 3rd or 4th.

If at any point it just stops trying you'll have to pull the fuse to reset it. That failed starting behavior should give you plenty of warning that the screen needs to be replaced. I carry a spare screen in my glovebox alongside extra fuses (it's smaller than a grape).

Winter is coming.. just buy the damn heater. It was the single best thing I installed for comfort and livability- the fridge was a close second. :drink:
 

SeattleNewbie

2013 NCV3 2500 170" WB
Really.

You'll need to make or buy a 12mm 6pt deep socket with a slot in it to remove the glow pin. It has a wire permanently attached that needs to hang out that slot while you spin the socket. Be sure to install the heater in a location you can access occasionally without too much pain.

I managed to go 3 winters before needing to replace the screen. As it gets sooted up, the D2 will gradually begin to have trouble igniting: it will sound like a normal start-up but then abruptly shut off before trying to start again several times, usually succeeding on the 2nd try, and eventually the 3rd or 4th.

If at any point it just stops trying you'll have to pull the fuse to reset it. That failed starting behavior should give you plenty of warning that the screen needs to be replaced. I carry a spare screen in my glovebox alongside extra fuses (it's smaller than a grape).

Winter is coming.. just buy the damn heater. It was the single best thing I installed for comfort and livability- the fridge was a close second. :drink:
That sets my mind at ease. Thank you and OrioN for taking the time to share this information.
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Also you need a 7mm tap to remove the screen. If you are careful, you can remove the screen, burn it out with a torch, and reinstall.
 

stuartm

Member
I've been running the chineese one for over a year now with 0 issues, used it to heat my garage the first year. Its was 300 bucks, I bought a second one for spare, and its still cheaper than a used air top.

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markxengineering

Active member
If I bought again I would 100% go chinese. As an alternative to the oddball tap which can be difficult to obtain on the road, the screen can be removed with a sharpened coathanger tip. Bend it at a little more than 90 degrees and it works great even for severely stuck screens.
 

Wrinkledpants

2017 144WB 4x4
Our D2 with 2,000 hours had it's first no-start. Most of the operation is 8k ft and higher. I ran kerosene for a few hours and still smokes hard on colder, higher starts. I'm going to run Kerosene for a good 24 hours on high and see if that helps. Hoping to clean up any carbon buildup, and then just maintain with a few hours of kerosene every 500 hours without disassembly.
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Once the glow screen cokes up, it generally can't be cleaned that way. It's easy enough to pull and burn clean with the heater installed.
 

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