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Old 01-25-2020, 10:47 PM   #1
tbuyan
 
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Default Binary heater

2005 3500. My heater control knob (not ATC) is an on/off switch. Full heat at the 12 o'clock position; no heat from 1 o'clock to 6 o'clock. Please point me to any existing threads that address this. I couldn't find any. Otherwise, what?
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Old 01-26-2020, 01:50 AM   #2
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Default Re: Binary heater

Quote:
Originally Posted by tbuyan View Post
My heater control knob (not ATC)
Not sure what you mean by "not ATC", but the hot/cold selector knob (left side, red to blue color gradiant) is the automatic temp controller (ATC). All three of the knobs/selectors and the fan speed are part of the ATC. Best guess is the potentionmeter failed and you need the module repaired.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=82506 This thread just came up the other day.
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Old 01-26-2020, 11:03 PM   #3
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Default Re: Binary heater

It can be a broken resistive element inside the knob's potentiometer.
At one end, you're having the wiper contact touch the end-point's metal attachment
Everywhere else, the failure of the element feeds the wiper the voltage of the other end.

Some people have replaced the potentiometer with a "standard" potentiometer, other people have sent the AC control unit off to one of the $125 "we fix your AC unit" places with good results.

Three vendors people have talked about: (last updated Feb 2019)
https://www.ebay.com/i/253997662372?chn=ps
https://www.autoecu.com/climate-cont...ontrol-module/
http://www.european-autowerks.com/sp...ore-wildoam-ca


--dick
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Old 01-27-2020, 07:32 PM   #4
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Default Re: Binary heater

Quote:
Originally Posted by koenb View Post
Not sure what you mean by "not ATC", but the hot/cold selector knob (left side, red to blue color gradiant) is the automatic temp controller (ATC). All three of the knobs/selectors and the fan speed are part of the ATC. Best guess is the potentionmeter failed and you need the module repaired.
My mistake. I assumed "ATC" referred an optional feature that enabled the selection of a given temp. e.g. 74, as many new vehicles have. I see now that it simply means the entire HVAC system.

Quote:
Originally Posted by koenb View Post
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=82506 This thread just came up the other day.
Yes, I had read that thread, but the symptoms seem to be the opposite of mine.
Nonetheless, it looks like I'll be sending my panel off to one of repair services autostaretx listed.

Thanks.
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Old 01-27-2020, 08:02 PM   #5
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Default Re: Binary heater

Quote:
Originally Posted by tbuyan View Post
Nonetheless, it looks like I'll be sending my panel off to one of repair services ....
If you need to drive the Sprinter with the AC head unit removed, the heat will be FULL ON
(handy in the winter)

The coolant valve requires power *to close* ... if it's unpowered, it'll open and heat will flow.

--dick
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2005 T1N 118" Freightliner 2500 Passenger Wagon (2.7L, 15" tires, standard (short) roof)
Get YOUR Sprinter's full configuration datacard by entering your VIN to https://www.datamb.com/
http://diysprinter.co.uk/reference <-- lots of service documentation, Thanks to Jens Moller and Arnie_Oli
((as always: this post may go through a couple of post-posting edits... so maybe give it ten minutes before commenting))
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Old 02-03-2020, 06:49 PM   #6
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Default Re: Binary heater

A few days ago it started working as it should.
So new dilemma: intermittent binary heater control.
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Old 02-03-2020, 07:45 PM   #7
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Default Re: Binary heater

It could also be a wiring or power supply issue to the head unit. Rarely the valve will by sticky. You can disassemble the piston part from the solenoid coil to evaluate.
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Old 02-04-2020, 05:29 AM   #8
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Default Re: Binary heater

Now I'm more than a little confused. My AC works fine, so what's the reference to the "head unit"?
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Old 02-04-2020, 02:25 PM   #9
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Default Re: Binary heater

KISS.

Try this before going any further.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aqua Puttana View Post
The potentiometer contacts may have a bit of corrosion.

Try twisting the knob with a bunch of gentle, but quick twist motions.

You don't want to jam stop to stop and maybe break something.

Move the knob away from the stop, give a bunch of short twists back and forth, index a bit further, give a bunch of short twists, etc. until the entire range of motion has been done.

The idea is that the quick twists will help the potentiometer wiper to rub itself clean. If it doesn't work you haven't lost anything. (As long as you don't break it.)

vic
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Old 02-04-2020, 02:27 PM   #10
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Default Re: Binary heater

If your AC works normally, then you can discount a power supply issue then. The sensor/pot on the temp knob is known to wear, so you should try APs suggestion.
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