Aqua Puttana's Cheap Tricks - Nothin' Fancy Here
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Fuel Door Bumpers and Cap Leash
When I went to fuel up the 2006 for the first time the fuel cap ended up in my hand with no clip on the leash. It appears that the plastic ring fitting is held to the door by some sort of plastic rivet or clip. I don't have any if those. I do have small cable ties though.
Another issue is that the small bumpers for the door were missing. From experience with my 2004 I know that those rubber bumpers being gone can allow the door to scratch the paint and then rust. I didn't have any proper sized bumpers on hand either. But I did have some rubber fuel hose. I pulled the hose into the holes and cut it off to form a bumper for both the body and driver door. That will work until I get the proper rubber pieces.
(Who am I kidding??? It'll remain there until it no longer does the job.)
vic
When I went to fuel up the 2006 for the first time the fuel cap ended up in my hand with no clip on the leash. It appears that the plastic ring fitting is held to the door by some sort of plastic rivet or clip. I don't have any if those. I do have small cable ties though.
Another issue is that the small bumpers for the door were missing. From experience with my 2004 I know that those rubber bumpers being gone can allow the door to scratch the paint and then rust. I didn't have any proper sized bumpers on hand either. But I did have some rubber fuel hose. I pulled the hose into the holes and cut it off to form a bumper for both the body and driver door. That will work until I get the proper rubber pieces.
(Who am I kidding??? It'll remain there until it no longer does the job.)
vic
misterbond10
New member
Not bad on the paint job. Let me tell you, I sprayed mine and wished I hadn't. Of course its too big to pull in any garage, trying to spray in blinding sunlight reflecting off the white surface, every kind bug in the NE region was soon squirming around in the wet paint. It doesn't really look that good either, the time spent taping it off was rediculous...I'll be brushing it next time
BTW dont worry about brush marks. Just keep layering your single stage paint nice 'n thick, then go over it with 1000 grit sandpaper and buff to a nice even sheen
BTW dont worry about brush marks. Just keep layering your single stage paint nice 'n thick, then go over it with 1000 grit sandpaper and buff to a nice even sheen
As time has passed the Brushtone Gray paint brush marks have turned less noticeable. I think that it's probably a combination of the paint flowing and finish dulling a bit. Even the larger rust patches which I was never really able to keep from returning have been held at bay by the thick film of brush paint.
A friend of mine commented the other day that that my van now has a real military look to it. I wonder if they sell magnetic iron crosses?
Steel Tube Mirror Arm Rotating/Slipping?
More info is here.
Side Mirror Adjustments
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48873
The driver side metal tube mirror arm on my 2006 would not hold proper position. It would mostly stay where I wanted, but at highway speed or in higher wind it would slip just out of place. The passenger side folds and clunks like my 2004 plastic housing mirrors do.
What I found.
There is a long Torx T-40 head bolt accessible from the bottom that acts as the pivot point. When I removed that bolt it revealed that a serrated gear tooth engagement at that top had been worn smooth. The lower teeth were fine. The upper matching aluminum teeth were worn smooth.
My solution.
In my collection I found a toothed type lock washer.
I slipped it in to bear against the worn smooth teeth. It works great.
Added: I believe what I used had a 3/8" I.D. x 5/8" O.D. It may have been 5/16" I.D. x 1/2" O.D. They are cheap enough that having a couple of each size for trial would be worthwhile.
I positioned the mirror and snugged the bolt. The mirror now maintains position.
vic
Added:
The tooth washer fix does return the OEM mirror swing coarse click stop function. I didn't tighten the pivot bolt completely because I thought that I'd need to leave some slip for the arm to move if hit by something. With different thoughts this morning, I tightened the pivot bolt down properly. That locked the fine adjustment assembly to the OEM positioner so that the OEM coarse click stop position detents again work. All is back to normal function now.
The top serrated teeth are for fine adjustment to the coarse click stops. I suspect that the pivot bolt was loose which allowed the teeth to wear. My passenger side mirror pivot bolt was a bit loose. I tightened that side to prevent problems.
The click stop feature happens when the inside large cylinder pivot rotates. If your mirror arm swings and the click stop positioning cylinder doesn't move then my tooth washer fix may work for you too.
The fix works for both style OEM mirrors.
Fed Ex style mirror vs plastic mount
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Another Exhaust Repair (which I've vowed to stop doing.)
I pieced in another section of exhaust on my 2004... again. I really didn't plan to own 2 T1N Sprinters. I'll run the 2004 until it doesn't make sense as to cost of repairs. It is kinda nice having a daily use Sprinter and a "kept a bit cleaner" passenger model.
I thought that the loud exhaust noise was because the muffler had failed. I drove with the noise for a week both around the city and on the interstate. No LHM, no performance issues from the leaking exhaust. There was a bit of chirping that I occasionally heard from the area of the passenger seat, but she stopped after the exhaust noise was repaired.
When I crawled under the van I was surprised to see that the exhaust pipe was completely separated from the flex right off the manifold. It really didn't seem that loud as to be a straight pipe off the manifold.
Previously I had added a monel wire support sling from the frame. It is positioned between cat converter and muffler pipe. That support prevented the muffler assembly from dropping down or falling off. I worried that the wire going up to the frame might vibrate or add noise, but I've not noticed any problems so far.
Added: The wire sling is very easy to do. There are some holes in the frame parts above the joint. I used two each trucker bungee S hooks to slip into two of those holes. After they were in place I dead ended the wire to one and went under the pipe and up to the other hook. After a few passes of the wire I secured the loose end. If you can't source Monel wire, SS picture hanging wire would work great for this added support. Adding the sling may save you losing your muffler/cat assembly.
I was able to use 2 ea. 2 1/4" 45 degree exhaust pipes to jump from the flex to the inlet of the cat converter. I needed to shorten the one 45 piece center joint to get things to align. I used a couple slip in pipe pieces sealed with stainless steel tape and clamps to connect/join the ends to the flex and cat converter.
The 2 1/4" pipe diameter is slightly smaller than the OEM pipe size, but it is such a short piece that I figured there would be no problem. So far everything is working just fine. [20190521 = ok.]
My slip in pipe repair is here.
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=128492#post128492
vic
I pieced in another section of exhaust on my 2004... again. I really didn't plan to own 2 T1N Sprinters. I'll run the 2004 until it doesn't make sense as to cost of repairs. It is kinda nice having a daily use Sprinter and a "kept a bit cleaner" passenger model.
I thought that the loud exhaust noise was because the muffler had failed. I drove with the noise for a week both around the city and on the interstate. No LHM, no performance issues from the leaking exhaust. There was a bit of chirping that I occasionally heard from the area of the passenger seat, but she stopped after the exhaust noise was repaired.
When I crawled under the van I was surprised to see that the exhaust pipe was completely separated from the flex right off the manifold. It really didn't seem that loud as to be a straight pipe off the manifold.
Previously I had added a monel wire support sling from the frame. It is positioned between cat converter and muffler pipe. That support prevented the muffler assembly from dropping down or falling off. I worried that the wire going up to the frame might vibrate or add noise, but I've not noticed any problems so far.
Added: The wire sling is very easy to do. There are some holes in the frame parts above the joint. I used two each trucker bungee S hooks to slip into two of those holes. After they were in place I dead ended the wire to one and went under the pipe and up to the other hook. After a few passes of the wire I secured the loose end. If you can't source Monel wire, SS picture hanging wire would work great for this added support. Adding the sling may save you losing your muffler/cat assembly.
I was able to use 2 ea. 2 1/4" 45 degree exhaust pipes to jump from the flex to the inlet of the cat converter. I needed to shorten the one 45 piece center joint to get things to align. I used a couple slip in pipe pieces sealed with stainless steel tape and clamps to connect/join the ends to the flex and cat converter.
The 2 1/4" pipe diameter is slightly smaller than the OEM pipe size, but it is such a short piece that I figured there would be no problem. So far everything is working just fine. [20190521 = ok.]
My slip in pipe repair is here.
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=128492#post128492
vic
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Armoring the transmission oil cooling line:
I used some leftover washing machine drain hose to armor my line. I cut the hose on a spiral to facilitate installation. I did not use any ties or clamps as the spiral seems to be keeping it snug.
The exposed line:
My spiral cut
Installed
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showpost.php?p=59394&postcount=65
I used some leftover washing machine drain hose to armor my line. I cut the hose on a spiral to facilitate installation. I did not use any ties or clamps as the spiral seems to be keeping it snug.
The exposed line:
My spiral cut
Installed
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showpost.php?p=59394&postcount=65
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I have a 2004 158" Hi-top w/110k - After believing I had a turbo gone bad, but thankfully before buying the new turbo, I did some reading here and came to find out, thanks mostly to Aqua Puttana and Doktor A and others, that the noise, a high, whining, chirping sound, is actually a broken #5 cyl exhaust stud ( sound familiar, Vic? ). It just happened so I think I have a little time but would like to take care of it. My problem- I don't know of any good mechanics that are not going to want to pull the engine, pull the head, send it to a machine shop, put it all back together, and then bend me over and present the bill. Besides, any time I tell anyone I have a sprinter that needs work I just seem to get what I call the "jersey cow stare" back.
I did just do this same repair to an old VW manx I've got and almost think ( it's either inspiration or that feeling of impending doom) that maybe I could do this too, although the VW was way more accessible and if I messed it up, way cheaper to get a new head for. I even have all the tools, taps, and even the studs (same size as a VW, apparently)
So I'm hoping to pick some brains of someone that's done this (Vic and Dr A or anyone, I hope you're there). Vic- Has this really happened to you twice? Once the #5 cyl and once the #1 or #2 cyl that you had the seeping debacle? And what is it about the #5 cyl? Why does it have to be so buried? Here's my biggest question: Did you drill and tap the new stud hole with the manifold in place? It seems to look easier with it there to help center the punch, the drill, and maybe even the tap. Or does it give you more room to take it off first? I hesitate to want to take it off as I know that's when I'll break 3 more studs doing so. And oh yeah, I'm sure it's better to do it "right" but I really just want to fix as easy and cheaply as I can. Besides, I don't have another bucket of money buried out back with which to throw at this and some mechanic. I'm currently either unemployed or retired, depending on your point of view. But, I'm also 63 and not real sure I can still get into position to do this repair any more. Did you do this from the front of the hood standing on a step or the ground or did you get up in the engine compartment to be able to drill and tap the new stud? Any help or comments that may come to mind in hindsight would be greatly appreciated ! Craig
I did just do this same repair to an old VW manx I've got and almost think ( it's either inspiration or that feeling of impending doom) that maybe I could do this too, although the VW was way more accessible and if I messed it up, way cheaper to get a new head for. I even have all the tools, taps, and even the studs (same size as a VW, apparently)
So I'm hoping to pick some brains of someone that's done this (Vic and Dr A or anyone, I hope you're there). Vic- Has this really happened to you twice? Once the #5 cyl and once the #1 or #2 cyl that you had the seeping debacle? And what is it about the #5 cyl? Why does it have to be so buried? Here's my biggest question: Did you drill and tap the new stud hole with the manifold in place? It seems to look easier with it there to help center the punch, the drill, and maybe even the tap. Or does it give you more room to take it off first? I hesitate to want to take it off as I know that's when I'll break 3 more studs doing so. And oh yeah, I'm sure it's better to do it "right" but I really just want to fix as easy and cheaply as I can. Besides, I don't have another bucket of money buried out back with which to throw at this and some mechanic. I'm currently either unemployed or retired, depending on your point of view. But, I'm also 63 and not real sure I can still get into position to do this repair any more. Did you do this from the front of the hood standing on a step or the ground or did you get up in the engine compartment to be able to drill and tap the new stud? Any help or comments that may come to mind in hindsight would be greatly appreciated ! Craig
Yes. I have two broken studs.
Word is that the manifold removal isn't too difficult DIY, but then you still need to remove the broken stud.
My first 1/4-20 stud replacement is holding fine. The second JB Weld repair using a wood core is sealed and holding fine. It is probably considered a hack job by many, but my manifold doesn't leak and the repair didn't cost much.
I drilled both from the front of the engine with the manifold in place. The first went well. It may have gone off a slight angle, but it was either not enough angle to go into the aluminum or it was shallow enough. The second drilling got kicked off to one side by the drill hitting a part.
I may have stood on a crate for better access to the manifold for drilling.
Obviously it is important to drill straight and not drill too deeply. You don't need too many more threads than a 1/4-20 nut engages. You might file or cut the bolt end flat to remove the taper threads. That makes it harder to start the threads into the hole, but gives more engagement.
I was younger than you when I did the job. 62 years old.
vic
Does repairing the ABS pump with $5 in parts count here?
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showpost.php?p=481185&postcount=10
Ok, so I needed another $8 in brake fluid too... and about 5 hours of time .
https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showpost.php?p=481185&postcount=10
Ok, so I needed another $8 in brake fluid too... and about 5 hours of time .
Rear Seat Passenger Cup Holder
I don't know why I didn't do this to my 2004 long ago.
Edit: I now know. The cup holder gets whacked out of position every time the passenger seat is tilted. Not a big issue when not in use, but an annoyance.
My 2006 passenger model has a pullout cup holder under the 3 passenger seat. It provides two cup positions over near the driver side. There is no provision for the passenger side.
I had a gray cup holder insert on hand. It occurred to me that it would mount on the B pillar plastic trim. The trim there is rather solid. I needed to cut the cup holder rim flat to allow a single screw mounting. I used a rubber cushion washer with the screw and also used some Goop glue on the lower section for stability.
This Cheap Trick isn't so much about the cup holder that I used (it was cheap though), it is more about location. Most any cup holder can be installed there for the passenger rear seat. The location is out of the way and pretty much readily accessible for the user.
When selecting the holder position be aware of the front passenger seat reclining. Unlike the driver seat, my 2006 passenger seat has a fixed postion on the base which is quite a bit forward. (No slides.)
This style holder will also work with a couple screws for mounting once the top hanger angle is trimmed off.
https://www.amazon.com/Custom-Acces...F8&qid=1477952427&sr=1-10&keywords=cup+holder
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006IV81M...&ascsubtag=8f7586761e3f26eb28b7bf513fa09a61_S
vic
I don't know why I didn't do this to my 2004 long ago.
Edit: I now know. The cup holder gets whacked out of position every time the passenger seat is tilted. Not a big issue when not in use, but an annoyance.
My 2006 passenger model has a pullout cup holder under the 3 passenger seat. It provides two cup positions over near the driver side. There is no provision for the passenger side.
I had a gray cup holder insert on hand. It occurred to me that it would mount on the B pillar plastic trim. The trim there is rather solid. I needed to cut the cup holder rim flat to allow a single screw mounting. I used a rubber cushion washer with the screw and also used some Goop glue on the lower section for stability.
This Cheap Trick isn't so much about the cup holder that I used (it was cheap though), it is more about location. Most any cup holder can be installed there for the passenger rear seat. The location is out of the way and pretty much readily accessible for the user.
When selecting the holder position be aware of the front passenger seat reclining. Unlike the driver seat, my 2006 passenger seat has a fixed postion on the base which is quite a bit forward. (No slides.)
This style holder will also work with a couple screws for mounting once the top hanger angle is trimmed off.
https://www.amazon.com/Custom-Acces...F8&qid=1477952427&sr=1-10&keywords=cup+holder
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006IV81M...&ascsubtag=8f7586761e3f26eb28b7bf513fa09a61_S
vic
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2.2k ohm 0.5w resistor possible EGR LHM fix
20180718 Added:
Thanks goes to Quillaja and other contributors.
20180718 Added:
Thanks goes to Quillaja and other contributors.
vic
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This is a great Cheap Trick to bring my thread back from being deep in the listings.
Thanks goes to Hyperlogos.
Alternate rubber boot for T1N steering rack
This picture shows an OEM boot.
Thanks goes to Hyperlogos.
Alternate rubber boot for T1N steering rack
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NCZ2691664
This picture shows an OEM boot.
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A great cheap tip.
Maybe put the mark on the top of the harmonic balancer so it can be indexed from above. Nope. Access from below with the socket works just fine.
vic
vic
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Thermos Hook
I've carried a thermos on road trips forever. The passenger side floor storage works great when my co-pilot is K9. Not so much with a two legged co-pilot. Then the thermos is an inconvenience for her... which at times then becomes an inconvenience for me.
I wasn't successful using bungee or other tricks. I believe that the latest method is a success.
It is surprisingly simple. A bit of line aka cord on the thermos handle, and a hook. Two-legs is very happy with the results.
Warning:
The double hook doesn't conform to crash worthiness. It could likely get in the way if things go south.
Added:
A more crash worthy choice would be to use a flexible gear tie formed into a hook. The gear tie can be fastened to the plastic trim using a fender washer/screw, or possibly by using a cable tie mount. A suitable gear tie would eliminate the need for a loop of line on the thermos handle.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00SHBO2Q2
I also have added a holder for a cheapy Harbor Freight flashlight and a web sling for cell phone... etc. on the passenger side. The flashlight holder is one of those leftover holster type things which had outlived its usefulness. Sometimes it's the little things that count.
vic
Added:
A safer thermos hook can be formed using a reusable rubber, bendable steel twist gear tie. It will deform easily if bumped.
An example.
Nite Ize GTBA-A2-R8 Original Gear, Reusable Rubber Twist Tie
https://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-GTBA-A2-R8-Original-Assortment/dp/B00SHBO2Q2
I've carried a thermos on road trips forever. The passenger side floor storage works great when my co-pilot is K9. Not so much with a two legged co-pilot. Then the thermos is an inconvenience for her... which at times then becomes an inconvenience for me.
I wasn't successful using bungee or other tricks. I believe that the latest method is a success.
It is surprisingly simple. A bit of line aka cord on the thermos handle, and a hook. Two-legs is very happy with the results.
Warning:
The double hook doesn't conform to crash worthiness. It could likely get in the way if things go south.
Added:
A more crash worthy choice would be to use a flexible gear tie formed into a hook. The gear tie can be fastened to the plastic trim using a fender washer/screw, or possibly by using a cable tie mount. A suitable gear tie would eliminate the need for a loop of line on the thermos handle.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00SHBO2Q2
I also have added a holder for a cheapy Harbor Freight flashlight and a web sling for cell phone... etc. on the passenger side. The flashlight holder is one of those leftover holster type things which had outlived its usefulness. Sometimes it's the little things that count.
vic
Added:
A safer thermos hook can be formed using a reusable rubber, bendable steel twist gear tie. It will deform easily if bumped.
An example.
Nite Ize GTBA-A2-R8 Original Gear, Reusable Rubber Twist Tie
https://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-GTBA-A2-R8-Original-Assortment/dp/B00SHBO2Q2
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Lube Your Window Tracks and Parts
People have mentioned that the grease used on the window tracks hardens. I found that to be true on the 2004 manual windows, and the 2006 power windows.
The manual crank windows use a metal button slide. There is no plastic/nylon slug like is on the power windows.
I used wheel bearing grease on the slide track and gear teeth. I didn't clean the old grease out. The new grease will rejuvenate the old stuff. I oiled the crank shaft on the manual windows. I didn't see anything with the power window motors to service other than greasing the slides and gear teeth.
The 2004 window track came loose from the bottom of the window to clank down to the bottom of the door. That was what triggered me removing the door panel. Unless the glue had disappeared, it appears that the track rubber is a force fit to the window. I added some Goop glue when I reinstalled the track on the glass edge.
This is a power window Youtube video. It shows the trim removal and the bend trick to get a power window working after the plastic slide cracks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_EpfpdpUlc
Basically.
Remove top pillar trim by pushing/tapping the lower section toward the vent window.
Remove the pull handle cover trim.
Remove switch assembly and unplug connectors.
For manual windows: Push the inner plastic ring away from the knob to release the crank handle keeper.
Find 2 ea. T30 screws and remove. (One is in a deep and narrow recess.)
Unlatch lower storage hatch and swing open.
Grasp door panel and pull straight up to release clips.
For driver side power window:
Struggle to release the switch connectors past the latch cable.
For passenger side power window:
Easily work the single connector free past the door latch cable.
For lubing I just balanced the door panel on the open hatch door. More extensive work might require freeing the latch cable to completely remove the panel.
Because the driver side multiple connectors for windows and mirrors were difficult to get free past the door latch cable, I left them alone and lubed the track with the panel just partially out. The track lubing was no problem. I wasn't able to grease the gear teeth as well without better panel removal.
This EuroCab Chassis double side door(?) model video has a different door panel from NAS aka NAFTA T1N's. It does show the manual crank handle release method at 1:10.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4a-e5WBohn4
vic
People have mentioned that the grease used on the window tracks hardens. I found that to be true on the 2004 manual windows, and the 2006 power windows.
The manual crank windows use a metal button slide. There is no plastic/nylon slug like is on the power windows.
I used wheel bearing grease on the slide track and gear teeth. I didn't clean the old grease out. The new grease will rejuvenate the old stuff. I oiled the crank shaft on the manual windows. I didn't see anything with the power window motors to service other than greasing the slides and gear teeth.
An aside.And it worked as planned.
The 2004 crank windows are now running up and down smooth as silk. To be honest I hadn't noticed how sticky they had become over the years.
I assume that the old grease also rejuvenated on the 2006 power window plastic slides, but I really don't have any way to test that other than removing the door panel for inspection. That's not worth the effort for me.
The 2004 window track came loose from the bottom of the window to clank down to the bottom of the door. That was what triggered me removing the door panel. Unless the glue had disappeared, it appears that the track rubber is a force fit to the window. I added some Goop glue when I reinstalled the track on the glass edge.
This is a power window Youtube video. It shows the trim removal and the bend trick to get a power window working after the plastic slide cracks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_EpfpdpUlc
Basically.
Remove top pillar trim by pushing/tapping the lower section toward the vent window.
Remove the pull handle cover trim.
Remove switch assembly and unplug connectors.
For manual windows: Push the inner plastic ring away from the knob to release the crank handle keeper.
Find 2 ea. T30 screws and remove. (One is in a deep and narrow recess.)
Unlatch lower storage hatch and swing open.
Grasp door panel and pull straight up to release clips.
For driver side power window:
Struggle to release the switch connectors past the latch cable.
For passenger side power window:
Easily work the single connector free past the door latch cable.
For lubing I just balanced the door panel on the open hatch door. More extensive work might require freeing the latch cable to completely remove the panel.
Because the driver side multiple connectors for windows and mirrors were difficult to get free past the door latch cable, I left them alone and lubed the track with the panel just partially out. The track lubing was no problem. I wasn't able to grease the gear teeth as well without better panel removal.
This Euro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4a-e5WBohn4
vic
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glasseye
Well-known member
That's the first verifiable use of the "document holder" to appear on the Internet.
I write the miles down on my fuel receipts and keep them for a time. I learned to mark the miles from a post on Sprinter-source.That's the first verifiable use of the "document holder" to appear on the Internet.
I also always stop my fuel fill with an 11, sometime 12 cents on the amount. When I scan my credit card statements it reminds me that it was fuel. Sometimes the business names give no clue that they sell fuel. It saves a search for an unrecognized business name.
vicAnd it worked as planned.
The 2004 crank windows are now running up and down smooth as silk. To be honest I hadn't noticed how sticky they had become over the years.
I assume that the old grease also rejuvenated on the 2006 power window plastic slides, but I really don't have any way to test that other than removing the door panel for inspection. That's not worth the effort for me.
vic
glasseye
Well-known member
Awesome! My wife does the accounting and sometimes there's some head-scratching about credit card charges.I also always stop my fuel fill with an 11, sometime 12 cents on the amount. When I scan my credit card statements it reminds me that it was fuel. Sometimes the business names give no clue that they sell fuel. It saves a search for an unrecognized business name.