Go Back   Sprinter-Forum > Sprinter-Based RV's & Conversions > Sprinter RV's & Conversions Talk

Sprinter RV's & Conversions Talk Common features found in Sprinter RV's and Conversions.

Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-03-2017, 09:51 PM   #71
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Pleasanton, CA
Posts: 2,575
Thanks: 616
Thanked 830 Times in 676 Posts
Default Re: >1kW Kitchen Appliances...worth it?

Originally Posted by OrioN View Post
Touchy/paranoid now aren't we...

I have components installed under the same scenario.

And, I want to see if I need to be concerned.

I asked for a source to validate or not my concerns, or start me in a right direction.

You certainly have not made a case for said, in fact now appears you only be speculating (bordering on fear-mongering)....

Sure - go ahead and install wires that are carrying 100 - 200 amps in your van using the wrong size wire lugs. Seems like a great idea. No skin off my back. Personally, I doubt that it actually is a problem because most batteries like that have fairly large contact areas, but it doesn't meet ABYC. For home / personal use - who cares. For selling a product - it becomes more important.

Last edited by HarryN; 03-03-2017 at 09:54 PM.
HarryN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2017, 10:10 PM   #72
A man, a van, no plan
danpaul000's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Colorado Front Range
Posts: 333
Thanks: 152
Thanked 125 Times in 85 Posts
Default Re: >1kW Kitchen Appliances...worth it?

Originally Posted by bstory View Post
On your solar capacity calculations.

The rule of thumb is with that panels installed flat on a van roof, you should assume you will only get about 60% of their rated watt capacity - some a bit more many a lot less. This is for many reasons, no tilt, not facing south all the time, most not ventilated well enough underneath meaning they are hot and hot panels do not produce as much power, shading at various times during the day, etc... Plus losses due to long wire runs in some instal th

All the successful installations I have seen written up on this forum and others seem to have higher wattage capacity numbers than amp/hr capacity numbers of the batteries they are maintaining. (I haven't done the calculations to support this - it is just an observation over 8 years of reading forums, including the Northern Arizona Wind and Sun solar forum http://forum.solar-electric.com/.)

With over 400 amp/hrs in batteries I would think you would something like 500 watts of panel capacity, 600 would be safer. Remember, what kills AGMs is not getting fully recharged frequently enough.

So, I would suggest considering reducing your battery capacity a bit or increasing the solar capacity. If you plan to drive frequently that is good, but if you want to stay put for 3 days it would be a shame to be worrying about the batteries.

We are running pretty much everything you plan to run except a microwave and induction burner on 210 amp/hrs of batteries and 270 watts of solar. No inverter in our system though. If you don't do the induction burner it should be pretty easy to add a bit of battery capacity for the microwave and you can size your inverter down to just cover the microwave usage.

Or work backwards from the panels you decide on and then determine the battery capacity they are likely to be able to support. Panasonic panels are the highest efficiency - 22.5% -you can get retail, though you will really have to look around for them as they are mostly sold to installers. (Sunpower are higher efficiency - 24% - but are only sold to installers - https://www.greentechmedia.com/artic...op-Solar-Panel .)

We have Kyocera panels on our van, mostly because they were pretty high efficiency at the time we were buying in 2010 but most important were highly recommended for their robustness and reliability. They were the favorites for mobile installations where they are bouncing around. Now you have more choices, but be sure to check the efficiency ratings. Also be sure to allow a couple of inches of space under the panels for air to circulate and cool down the panels.

If we were to add panels now, if we couldn't get the Panasonics, we would probably get Kyocera again - the power production of all panels degrades slowly over time but the Kyoceras degrade more slowly than most. They are polycrystalline, not mono, but they have recently gotten these to 18% efficiency.

I second the notion that the kits are not a good deal, in general. You want the most efficient panels you can get that fit on the roof and a high quality MPPT solar controller. The rest is just wire and basic electric parts. We highly recommend Blue Seas stuff for its quality. We have a Rogue MPPT solar controller, made by a guy in Oregon. Very high quality and reliability.

PS - I just noticed that Northern Arizona Wind and Sun is selling LG 315 watt panels which get 19.2% efficiency for $367. They are big panels, but you might fit 2 of them on your van roof. https://www.solar-electric.com/lg-lg...lar-panel.html
For my solar calculations, I have been assuming 8 hr/day sunlight and then take 50% of that number as my daily Wh production. We will be traveling slowly in the southwest US where we will have plenty of sun, and then probably a lot more driving as we head north into PNW/Canada, so more clouds but lots more alternator charging.

I am giving a lot of consideration to a diesel cooker, as I may be able to bring down the bank to a single battery. Planning to dial in the numbers over the weekend to have an updated estimate of electric consumption. I am thinking now that I might do a single Full River 12V 260Ah battery paired to 2x 180W Grape Solar panels.

If I bring the battery Ah capacity up and accordingly increase solar wattage, is it inadvisable to use 3 panels? I ask because I see most people either wiring in series (2 panels) or series-parallel (4 panels). Not sure what the best layout would be with an odd number of panels.
2005 Dodge 158" WB SHC - Full-time adventuring: www.shenanigansensue.com - Build completed: https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=58776
danpaul000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2017, 10:27 PM   #73
2008 NCV3 170ext
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 1,336
Thanks: 825
Thanked 797 Times in 497 Posts
Default Re: >1kW Kitchen Appliances...worth it?

One thing about that 260Ah battery is that it's HEAVY, about 175 lbs. It does come with rope handles but I try to avoid lifting it very much or for very long.. seems like a good way to expel an internal organ (or two). Not a huge problem as I don't intend to move the bank again until the batteries are dead-- hopefully not for 7+ years, but two 6V batteries in series would be a lot easier to lift or reposition. Something to keep in mind.

You could put three panels in parallel but make sure to use 24V+ panels. For best results, ensure that the input voltage to your MPPT charge controller is 10-ish volts (or more) above the bank voltage, but of course also below the maximum input voltage for the controller.

I'll once again prod to do more solar. It's really not that much more work or expense to put up an extra panel or two once you're already doing the rest of the work to put solar in. For full-time use I think you'll want the power.. and either way you'll want the extra roof shade (particularly in the southwest US).

Last edited by sprint2freedom; 03-03-2017 at 10:36 PM.
sprint2freedom is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to sprint2freedom For This Useful Post:
Goofy foot (03-04-2017)
Old 03-04-2017, 12:01 AM   #74
2008 NCV3 170ext
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 1,336
Thanks: 825
Thanked 797 Times in 497 Posts
Default Re: >1kW Kitchen Appliances...worth it?

Here's tgregg's experience with the diesel cooktop:
sprint2freedom is offline   Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

All times are GMT. The time now is 01:59 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.