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Old 11-14-2011, 01:51 AM   #1
Aqua Puttana
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Default Alternator Turbo Resonator Change OM647

My Experience Changing My 2004 OM647 Alternator

Search: Change, install, replace, renew, repair alternator and turbo resonator

I figured I'd write this up even though it has been covered already. It’s pretty basic stuff, but knowing what tools you’ll need may have some value.

Here's the short version so you can avoid my long descriptions. The turbo resonator stuff doesn’t apply to 2001 – 2003 OM612 engines.

Disconnect battery negative.
Remove tension on serpentine belt.
Remove turbo shield on top of engine for Turbo Resonator access.
Disconnect small terminal and large terminal on alternator.
Remove turbo resonator.
Remove alternator.
Reverse procedure to install with "Vee" notch to engine. Refer to post #9.

Easy as pie so even Orion would like it.

The Long Story

At our first fuel stop towing our boat down to New Orleans from Niagara Falls I needed to accelerate a bit more than I usually do into traffic and noticed a couple little chirps. I figured it was the alternator pulley. If I stayed easy on the throttle it seemed fine. Whenever we stopped for fuel I'd inspect the belt and see if the belt was wobbly. After shutdown I'd feel the belt to see if it was getting hot. It all worked fine the rest of the way to New Orleans, back, and then even a bit more driving once home. Easy on the throttle seemed to work just fine. The 90 amp clutch seemed OK by hand, but I don't really have experience to draw upon. With over 225,000 miles I figured changing the alternator was inevitable anyway.

Edit: The "chirping" was actually traced to an exhaust manifold leak. The old alternator is fine.

I upgraded to a 150 amp Bosch alternator from the originally ordered 90 amp (I'm removing the OEM?). The T1N alternators are all interchangeable 90, 120, up to 150 amp to the best of my knowledge (built in voltage regulator). The 150 amp unit is physically larger and took a bit more fiddling to get up into place.

I had a spare Turbo Resonator on hand. Since I needed to remove the TR to install the alternator I installed my Q5 spare. I recommend removing the TR for alternator access. It didn't look to me like I could have removed the one upper bolt without doing that. It made access much better. I also recommend changing out your TR if you aren't certain whether you have the newer Q5 style. It's only about $40 or $50 and would be a pain to change on the road.

Tools that I Needed

17 mm wrench with cord and hook for tensioner
Flashlight
Hose removal tools
3/8” 12 point box/open end wrench for alternator star head bolts (E torx E12?)
” 12 point for Turbo Resonator star head bolts (E Torx E7, possibly E8)
12 mm +/- box wrench for torque multiplier
13 mm box wrench for alt terminal
Straight screwdriver
8 mm box wrench for alt terminal and hose clamps
8 mm socket
3/8” ratchet with 3” extension
3/8” 12 point socket
10 mm socket
10 mm box open end wrench for battery negative (not shown)

Parts

Bosch alternator
6 rib PK2260 Serpentine Belt (Should be correct for NAS 2004 - 2006.)

Serpentine Belt Kit if needed. http://europarts-sd.com/mfg-subcat-i...D=102&scID=174


I normally prefer 6 point sockets so digging up my seldom used 3/8" 12 points for the star fasteners took some looking.

AlternatorTools.jpg

How I Did It

Disconnect the battery negative. (Have your OEM radio code in hand before doing this if applicable.)

Remove tension on the serpentine belt tensioner. I use a 12 point 17 mm box wrench tied back to a hook in the frame hole. There is a hole for a pin keeper in the tensioner to use to hold to it back if you prefer. Check the tensioner for smooth movement while you are there. Replace if it doesn't move smoothly. Mine seemed fine. Use this opportunity to check all the pulleys for smooth operation once the belt is loose.

Remove the Turbo Resonator

From above remove the turbo heat shield on the engine. A 10 mm socket works. The air filter hose removes easily and swings out of the way. It is not necessary to remove it, but it helps with TR access quite a bit. (OM612 owners can ignore this TR stuff..)

Loosen the hose clamp on the turbo resonator hose and clear it.

Back underneath use a ” 12 point box wrench to remove the top TR bolt first. That way the lower one holds the original position and keeps the upper bolt from binding. My upper bolt was so tight I needed to use a 12 mm box wrench added to the ” one to gain leverage. The torque increaser method is shown in the tool picture. After the TR is loose from the bracket go back up top and remove it.

Disconnect Electrical and Remove Alternator
(Battery Negative Removed Previously)

Back underneath. Remove the electrical lugs. 8mm and 13mm nuts on those. If the nuts are tight you may need to hold the electrical lug with pliers so the stud doesn't twist in the plastic.

Use a 3/8” 12 point socket or box wrench to remove the lower alternator E Torx bolt which holds the TR bracket. Leave the other bolt alone so it holds position to prevent binding while you remove the upper bolts.

For the upper bolts remove the one with the TR bracket first. That way the bracket can be swung out of the way. I found the one upper bolt a real pain for access lying on my back. I’m certain a lift would make it easier.

Remove the lower bolt and juggle the alternator down and out.

Re-install

Juggle the new alternator up into position with "Vee" notch toward engine.
20120528 edit: The alternator can be installed incorrectly so be careful. Thanks goes to Grey man 64 and Skydiver007 for the tips.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grey man 64 View Post
I finally had some spare time to take off the 120 amp alternator and spin it 180 degrees and it fits like a glove. The "V-notch" side is the one that mounts to the engine block side. Now it makes me wish I had kept the 150 amp alternator. You know what they say about hind sight...
A picture of my 150 amp installed is in post #9 further on.


Note: I installed the lower TR bracket bolt first without the bracket (the bracket gets in the way) and the other bolt with the hose support and snugged them up first before messing with the upper bolts. That sets the alignment. Install the one upper bolt and snug it up. Next remove the lower TR bracket bolt, then install the TR bracket with upper and lower bolts. Tighten all four bolts to spec.

Install the two alternator electrical lugs. Position the belt back over the pulley.

Back up above, clean and lube the turbo inlet bore. Install the new TR. Inspect that the belt is properly aligned to all the pulleys from above.

Back down underneath install the TR bracket bolts. Re-tension the serpentine belt.

Back up above connect the TR hose. Re-install the air filter hose if it was removed. Re-install the turbo heat shield.

Check to make certain no electrical connectors or hoses in the area of your work were knocked loose during the job. (MAF, Temperature sensor on air filter, etc.)

Double check that everything is completed. Connect the battery negative.

Good luck. vic

P.S. - I forgot to add that all fasteners should be greased or anti sieze applied for the next time.

Added:
Arnie Oli gives instructions on Regulator Change
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...309#post563309

Quote:
Originally Posted by Arnie_Oli View Post
Got her out. Not much more life left in the brushes anyway. About twenty mins fudging around underneath keeping the alternator in situ and removing the regulator from underneath while my feet burn in the roaring sunshine.

Obviously disconnect battery...

Much easier if you use an E12 torx socket to move the supporting bracket for the turbo to one side.

Remove the bolts and screws shown, cover from alternator comes off and two needlessly hidden screws (WTF Bosch!) come out and the regulator slides out.
...
The pictures may go away. They aren't attached to Sprinter-source.
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Old 11-19-2011, 10:56 PM   #2
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Default Re: Alternator Turbo Resonator Change OM647

This write up was just what I needed. About 1 1/2 hours to swap the alternator on my 2002.

The 13mm nut on the alternator wiring harness needs to be loosened up before removing the last 2 bolts holding the alternator in. Its on very tight. I also used sand paper to clean the 2 connections before putting the 13mm and 8mm nuts back on.

The alternator clutch on my 90 amp (9 years old - 175,000 miles) does not move at all like the new one does - its mostly locked up. I probably avoided having my fan belt shredded by changing this out.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Alternators.jpg (50.3 KB, 1377 views)
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Old 05-17-2012, 07:42 PM   #3
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Default Re: Alternator Turbo Resonator Change OM647

Aqua Puttana,
Great write up. This was exactly what I needed when I replaced my alternator. I ran into a clearance issue when trying to install the 120 amp or 150 amp alternators. The alternator upper mounting and engine block mounting is gapped, +/-1/8" on the 120 amp and +/-1/4" on the 150 amp unit. Is there a shim package that should be used when upgrading from 90 amp to 120 or 150 amp alternators? Both alternator housings are up against the engine block and it seems that not only can the upper bolts not be tightened correctly, but the alternator housing can be cracked or damaged by engine vibration.

Any thoughts, experiences or solutions would be greatly appreciated.

Best regards,
Grey man 64
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Old 05-17-2012, 10:43 PM   #4
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Default Re: Alternator Turbo Resonator Change OM647

First let me extend you a hale and hearty welcome to the forum. welcome2.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grey man 64 View Post
Aqua Puttana,
Great write up.
Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grey man 64 View Post
I ran into a clearance issue when trying to install the 120 amp or 150 amp alternators. ...
Did you replace with a Bosch 150 amp? I found that my 150 amp Bosch replacement needed more juggling around than the 90 amp OEM to R&R, but after it was up in place the 150 amp bolted right in.

There are no shim kits or other adapting which I have heard about related to Bosch alternators. Good luck. vic
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Old 05-17-2012, 11:52 PM   #5
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Default Re: Alternator Turbo Resonator Change OM647

It has a clutch? Why?..
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Old 05-17-2012, 11:59 PM   #6
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Default Re: Alternator Turbo Resonator Change OM647

Old Crows,
I think pretty much all Sprinters have an alternator clutch.
The rotor inside the alternator has alot of mass, and it turns quite
fast.
It has an "over running clutch" so the alernator is free to continue to spin and
not eat holes in the serpentine belt when the engine slows rapidly.
Mostly the clutch causes no problems for the life of the alternator, but
there have been a few that failed.
Part of this equation is the serpentine belt tensioner I would hazard a guess.
The tensioner would not like being loaded the wrong way too many times.
Hope this helps,
Roger
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Old 05-18-2012, 02:47 AM   #7
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Default Re: Alternator Turbo Resonator Change OM647

I have the answer for you as I have already done this a couple of times. The 150 amp will fit any Sprinter. It is thinner on one side than the other. If you get it up to the mounting holes and it wont fit, you have it backwards. Flip it around and it will work. Also eliminating the turbo resonator which leaks oil on it all the time will help extend its life.

The clutch in mine went bad and the whole bearing died. It was wierd, it would run fine up to 70mph then the charge light would come on. If I slowed down, charge light would go off. Took it off and the bearing was destroyed.

Also was a NAPA special which I will never buy again. Buy from Euro Parts SD.

Also careful tightening sense wire as the bolt will break very easily.
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Old 05-18-2012, 02:51 AM   #8
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Default Re: Alternator Turbo Resonator Change OM647

Did you replace with a Bosch 150 amp?

I bought a Durolast 120 amp alternator from Autozone. That could be the problem - variances in manufacturing process and tolerance. It's in there and working, but I'm not thrilled about the housing being up against the engine block. I bought some GM shims and will loosen the 4 bolts, slide the shims between the mounting points and block, and take up the difference between the block mounts and alternator mounts. I don't think that 1/8" will cause a problem with belt tension. I want to ensure of a solid mount but also have clearance between the alternator and block.

Or, as Skydiver007 pointed out, it could be oriented the wrong way. I took off the 90 amp unit and installed the 120 amp unit exactly the same way. However, the 90 amp unit had been replaced a year and two months ago (only had a one year warranty). Perhaps it was installed incorrectly as well and I just compounded my problem.

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Old 05-18-2012, 12:57 PM   #9
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Default Re: Alternator Turbo Resonator Change OM647

Quote:
Originally Posted by skydiver007 View Post
...Also eliminating the turbo resonator which leaks oil on it all the time will help extend its life.

...
I haven't noticed any oil leakage from my TR.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grey man 64 View Post
...
Or, as Skydiver007 pointed out, it could be oriented the wrong way.

...
I should think that the electrical connection location would dictate the orientation, but if there is enough slack ...

As to shims, there must be enough takeup in the tensioner for a slight difference. Just be certain what you do doesn't affect the pulley/belt alignnments. Rotating the position may be the better solution.
No! It matters!!!

This is my 150 amp Bosch looking up.

150AmpAltVee.jpg


Good luck. vic

Edit. From a recent post/thread. Thanks goes to Andy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by abittenbinder View Post
The asymmetric (to shaft center axis) mounting flanges of the '02-'06 Sprinter's alternator means installation needs to be done with care and knowledge.

The 90A alternator can be installed 'backwards' without damage to alternator but D+ wire may not reach the inverted terminal easily.

The larger diameter 150A alternator will have interference issues if mounted backwards as you discovered.

I have also seen improperly stored salvage yard engines suffer alternator seizure due to corrosion and prevent minimum starter motor speeds for start to occur.

Doktor A
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Old 05-20-2012, 01:26 PM   #10
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Default Re: Alternator Turbo Resonator Change OM647

When you buy this alternator. The Bosch 150 amp is used on more than one vehicle.

I read somewhere that you may have to remove the bolts and spin the back of the alternator around to align the connections to match the one you removed.

The 2 I installed both had to have this done. Including the one I bought from Euro Parts SD

If you bought a Sprinter 150amp alternator, it will fit, if not it is the wrong model.
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