Windshield Rust Hack Job

220629

Well-known member
...

Here's what the bottom of the windshield looked like after I removed the rubber flange and before I started grinding:

Here's after grinding:

I will eventually treat the entire windshield, but wanted to start at the bottom where it's the worst.
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The rust in your picture doesn't look at all as bad as what I had. Refer back to my pictures.

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What do you guys (& especially Vic, who inspired our project!) think about this plan? -->
Rustoleum on the entire surface under the windshield and everywhere there is exposed rust.
Dicor caulk in the groove.
Eternabond tape starting in the groove and wrapping around the front of the metal under the windshield. Not on the windshield, since I left the rubber gasket in place.

Then, do the same approach on the sides and eventually the top.

Thanks in advance for all of your thoughts and opinions!
For the bottom.

Personally I would remove the fancy rubber trim.

The theory, and a critical part of my Eternabond repair is that the water will never get to the rusted metal again.

Cleaning the rust a bit, priming, then brush painting the rusted areas stabilizes the damage. It doesn't repair it. On the bottom section, starting low with the first application layer of Eternabond tape, and then bonding the next Eternabond to the glass while overlapping the first tape layer pretty much guarantees that any water sheds down over the repaired areas. The repaired area never gets wet again.

The fancy rubber trim contributes to the original rusting because it cannot be sealed against water and it traps the moisture to keep things wet.

For my method to work properly the water needs to be kept out of the repainted areas. The Eternabond tape will bond to the glass and leave a nice looking edge. The fancy trim seal being left in the mix will work against keeping the water out.

Good luck.
vic
 
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CadZukes

New member
My 2006 Great West RV was rust free until I had the cracked windshield replaced buy a nationally know windshield company. I was concerned when I saw them attacking the seal with a zaw-saw with a flat blade. It chipped the paint around the flange and the fingernail polish brush they repainted with was obviously inadequate. After many months, the rust appeared and when I checked with Mercedes they pointed out in the manual where it clearly states to remove the windshield with cutting wire only. Having worked in a body shop in my younger days, I removed the windshield (with wire), repaired the rust and the company agreed to install a new one no charge. All fixed? Not quite. After several months sitting in the storage lot, the middle-top of the new windshield began leaking and the front headliner had mold, rust stains and electrical short in the backup display screen on the dash. It never ends ;-)
 

220629

Well-known member
... After several months sitting in the storage lot, the middle-top of the new windshield began leaking and the front headliner had mold, rust stains and electrical short in the backup display screen on the dash. It never ends ;-)
I hear you. Unfortunately even the MB wire removal can cause problems when not properly executed.

I'm pretty certain that the rust on the 2004 windshield was accelerated by a previous windshield replacement ugly removal method. I bought the van used so no history. I've seen some similar ugly rust around some windshields that have an OEM logo on the glass. But, I admit that where I live during winter they throw salt on the roads with wild abandon.

I used the methods that I used to keep water from accumulating and continuing the rust problems. So far so good for the repair. :thumbup:

On the 2006 I've used trimmer string bits to provide additional drainage, with added periodic spritzes of WD-40. So far so good on that too. My theory for the 2006 is that I can't keep the water out, so I might as well provide better drainage with WD-40 as an anti-rust protection.

TrimStringWindshield.jpg
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=577021

:cheers: vic
 
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Rocketgurl

2005 2500 158 crew conv.
I don't think there's a need to discuss whether I'm sold on the windshield hack, as I've already gone Duran the road. In the past, I had a Toyota pickup that had the windshield cancer so bad it was leaking water inside when it rained. I was able to keep it dry for over 10 years with 2 applications of extra windshield tar.

That said, I've made an observation over the past few days that water, even just melt off from frost, stsys in that gutter below the window, and the built in drains are not deep enough to actually allow the water to drain out. This is usually hidden behind a rubber flap that I removed to wire brush off my loose rust.

Here's my plan, I've applied a strong layer of Rustoleum to the gutter and metal below where you can see exposed metal in my post above.

Next, I'm going to apply 2 layers of Eternabond tape starting on the flat metal, then overlapping a little bit into the gutter so I can have cover the edge.

After that, I'm going to fill the gutter with Dicor so there's no place for the water to sit.

Maybe I'll paint, but probably not until spring.

Thoughts?
 
I suspect the original design was meant to allow air in below the seal to dry out any moisture. I suppose if you made sure there was no residual water or dampness, sealing it up completely could be advantageous.

I still believe removing the glass and addressing every blemish before priming and painting and clear coating the lip is worth the effort. Any bubbles that show up around the outside are just the beginning of what is hidden on the metal lip. Sooner or later the glass will have to come out.
 

glasseye

Well-known member
Interesting that this failure mode was common on the VW bus, too.

I'm on my third windshield now, and each time I insist on an inspection when the windshield's out. They proactively did some repairs last time. So far, so good, but Frito never sees the winter conditions that Vic's vans see. That's horrid rust. :yell:
 

220629

Well-known member
After caulk in the channel, I added another layer of Eternabond which overlapped/sealed to the glass by about 3/8" or so. The Eternabond has remained well adhered to the glass.

Caulk should be good alone though.

:cheers: vic
 
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220629

Well-known member
If the rust hasn't progressed, an option suggested by Wires. :thumbup:

Flowable Windshield Repair Sealant.

My windshield started leaking a lot during a amazingly heavy downpour. I never spent the time to figure out too much about the exact path but the gasket wasn't in tight contact with the metal at the top and that looked likely.

Flowable silicone is a wonderful material. A bit hard to find sometimes but worth the effort. I fixed a concrete laundry sink with this stuff almost 30 years ago and still no leaks.

Go slow, let it sink in and reapply until you get the fill level you want.

Here is the stuff I used on my Sprinter windshield:

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=110187&stc=1&d=1553892802
Be aware that silicone won't play well with any replacement windshield sealant. If the windshield needs replacement after using any silicone seal, extraordinary cleaning measures will be needed to get rid of the silicone residues.

:cheers: vic
 

doug022984

Sporadic Member Since 2015
Thinking of trying the silicone approach for temporary fix on my newly-started-leaking windshield. I'm not worried about the silicone not playing nice. Next time that windshield comes out, it will be to do a proper rust repair metal restoration anyway. Question: can the weatherstripping be removed and reinstalled without damage if careful? I'd like to remove it for further investigation and better application of the silicone. My windshield is about 3 years old (safelite install). I see Vic had to use lineman pliers to pull out the one side, so that makes it sound not very easy.
 

doug022984

Sporadic Member Since 2015
Question: can the weatherstripping be removed and reinstalled without damage if careful?
Answered first part of my own question and the answer is yes. I just started at one of the top corners since it's easy to grab and it just pulls right out. I think I'll remove the lip that traps all the dirt and water if I reinstall.
 

glasseye

Well-known member
Installing my fourth windshield (life in the Great White North :doh: ), at 150K miles, we discovered this. Horrid, eh Vic? :hmmm:

IMG_20200807_113349 800 px.jpg
With a tiny angle grinder, Speedy Glass ground it all off...


IMG_20200807_121316 800 px.jpg

... and coated it with some kind of epoxy stuff. Good for another couple of winters at least.

Those foam bits are supports for my Ultraguage. :hmmm:
 

220629

Well-known member
Installing my fourth windshield (life in the Great White North :doh: ), at 150K miles, we discovered this. Horrid, eh Vic? :hmmm:
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I only wish my 2004 looked as good. :bounce:

... and coated it with some kind of epoxy stuff. Good for another couple of winters at least.
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Not that you asked...

The coating they applied might work. For the bottom problem area you might consider a preemptive strike of removing the lower fancy rubber, sealing it with appropriate product, and adding an Eternabond shield to keep water completely away from the damaged area(s).

The side areas aren't as much of a problem. The drainage sheds down. During the fix the bottom of each side can be sealed to shed any drainage over the Eternabond tape.

My opinion.
If the Hack Job fix is applied before things go downhill rusty, it is a really easy DIY fix. If your Sprinter is white color the Eternabond tape covering doesn't show much at all.

The above said, at the rate you seem to replace windshields... just have them do their magic on the rust during the next replacement.

:2cents: vic
 

glasseye

Well-known member
The above said, at the rate you seem to replace windshields... just have them do their magic on the rust during the next replacement.
:2cents: vic
Yeh. They do a good job and it doesn't seem to be spreading.

The last windshield, I took a stone right at the very edge of the glass. "Worst possible place to get hit", they said. Cracks that propagate from those hits are apparently impossible to stop.

The latest hit was identical to the previous one - right in the last sixteenth of an inch of the edge.

It's my penance for participating in the DZ. :idunno:
 

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