Info: Refrigerator

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OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
This thread is to provide information about the refrigerator/freezer for records. My sticker label inside fridge is starting to wearout, so info here for prosperity.

I. Basic Information

From Label (if someone can post photo of label, that'd be nice).

Westfalia
523 396
12V DC. 42 W

Gross Volume 60L
Kaltemitte 0.058 kg R134a
Refrigerant 2.05 oz R134a

High Pressure 102 psi
Low Pressure 0.44 psi

Product 958.4470

Model RC1160
Serial No.

Manufactured by Dometic
 
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OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
I. Basic Information (continued)

From the James Cook Friends Forum, this fridge is also labelled as an Electrolux.

The Westfalia part number may be 90000 152 3704 (info from a post on James Cook Friends Forum; no info as to source of info.).

The manufacturer is Dometic Luxembourg. Contact person is a Bernd (Sp?) Weber at Tel 0800 222 1234.

The model RC1160 can apparently be replaced by an almost identical RC1162.

Back here in USA, Autocamp is guessing the compressor is a Danfoss (now Secop) BD35F.

The Danfoss compressor has a good reputation and is used by several manufacturers including Isotherm, Nova-Kool, Tundra, Vitrofrigo, and Waeco (Dometic).

The Westy fridge has the evaporator metal plate at the rear of the fridge (riveted). Behind it is the temperature sensor in the slot. The refrigerant lines and the electric wire for the temperature sensor enter the fridge compartment from the rear right corner (small plate or cover bracket riveted in place).

The Danfoss compressor and condensor coils are inside the black metal box under the fridge compartment. In addition, there is a fan which cools the condenser coils and the electronic control unit.

There is a hole in the plywood floor (under the black metal box and behind the white cover) which allows air to circulate from under the floor.
 
O

OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
II. Diagnostics/Troubleshooting

The Westfalia Repair Manual CD has information on how to use the Central Computer Console at top of windshield for diagnosis.

After pressing various buttons, the main test should show the fridge drawing 4.5 amps. (double-check info) on the display.

Autocamp mentioned on the James Cook Friends Forum the importance of healthy fully charged coach batteries when troubleshooting. The Danfoss compressor has a low-voltage shut-off feature.

On the James Cook Friends Forum, another troublespot is a 40A fuse in or around the electronic control unit inside the black metal box under the fridge compartment.

Also, there is the sixth position 12V fuse behind the rear bench seat.

There is an electrical snap-together connector underneath the fridge (runs from under the closet area into the fridge cabinet area) which may become loose and need to be snapped together.

Older troubleshooting thread:

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=54038&highlight=Connector

For more extensive troubleshooting, folks on the James Cook Friends Forum have removed the entire fridge to take to a Dometic repair location.

If no Dometic/Waeco help is available, another alternative would be to find a repair center for one of the other fridge brands which use the Danfoss compressor (like Nova-Kool or Isotherm).

Marine refrigeration repair shops may also be a possibility, especially if can repair in-place.

NOTE: On James Cook Friends Forum, folks oiled the noisy cooling fan. Older thread with link here:

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=59488&highlight=Noisy+fan

In the James Cook Friends Forum photo, the fan is at the right bottom, horizontal position, beneath the coils (correct?).

NOTE: Several of these brands sell a DIY kit which consists of the Danfoss/Secop compressor and control unit, condenser coils, evaporator plate, etc., for those making their own fridge.
 
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OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
III. Parts and Alternatives

According to posts on the James Cook Friends Forum, a complete replacement fridge was available at Westfalia for awhile for more than 1,000 Euros.

An almost identical model, the RC1162, was available for awhile from Dometic Luxembourg.

There are many different variations of the Danfoss BD35 compressor and the electronic control unit. The exact variation one used in our Westy (need label off compressor) may or may not be available, but there should.be plenty of other variations which might fit.

A fridge repair person may be able to fix any leaks and recharge the R134a (a poster on the James Cook Friends Forum apparently had a leak).

Worst case scenario: There are several DIY kits available to make your own fridge. One of those kits might be able to replace everything in our fridge while keeping the fridge compartment itself.

https://www.indelwebastomarine.com/...ems/compact-air-cooled-refrigeration-systems/

http://www.vitrifrigo.com/ww/en/cooling_units

NOTE: Just found some Dometic DIY components with condensers which look like our Westy condensers.

https://www.dometic.com/en-au/au/products/food-and-beverage/refrigeration/cooling-units
 
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O

OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
IV. Replacement Fridges

There are some available chest fridges which could replace the Westy fridge.

On the James Cook Friends forum, someone mentioned a Dometic Waeco Coolmatic CB40 which might fit (albeit, 2/3 the size of the Westy fridge).

https://www.dometic.com/en/se/produ...refrigerators/dometic-coolmatic-cb-40-_-63737

The Westy central computer console may not be compatible and need to be disconnected.

There are other brand chest fridges which might also fit. There is a larger Nova-Kool chest fridge which would require cabinet work:

http://www.novakool.com/products/single_doors/tl_wl2500.htm

And also several Isotherms:

https://www.indelwebastomarine.com/us/products/fridges-freezers/built-in-boxes/

There were also one or more posters on this subforum who may have mentioned a completely different, larger replacement fridge (Different cabinet? Location?)

Additional or temporary portable fridge. The Expedition Portal forum folks like the standalone portable Engel chest fridges. These and other brand (e.g., ARB) chest fridges could be an addition or temporary replacement fix. Could locate between front seats if small enough or behind driver seat.
 
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O

OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
Don't remember seeing any update or other info on that thread re latch, and don't recall anyone asking or discussing on the James Cook Friends forum. Might try posting there. Meanwhile, for safety, could add an additional latch like:

http://thumblockfasteners.com/RV.html

Not too ugly but adhesive may be permanent.
 
C

Camp

Sprinter Westfalia
I wanted to stick a newer latch on to be safe until I come up with a better one, but no luck. I wonder if anyone's latch has ever failed, locking the fridge and trapping everything inside? I don't know if that has happened, but it looks like the counter/cabinet around the fridge would have to be removed to access it. That's my fear with relying on a now 10+ year old flimsy latch that that isn't serviceable from the exterior.

I've considered 3D printing a better latch, or fabricating one out of metal. If you take the latch apart, there is a simple spring that a tab from the latch's exterior handle releases to pull in the locking mechanism. In my opinion, it is one of the worst designed parts on the Westy and is clearly prone to failure.

I have also thought about just removing the interior portion, and putting a blank plate in it's place (the lid weighs enough to keep the fridge closed). The last thing I want is to find a "locked" fridge one day!
 
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OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
Possible broken latch with no access to fridge. That's an interesting issue. Just thinking aloud:

The metal latch receiver portion (not lid latch) attached to the cabinet (not lid) is accessible only with cabinet removed (screws are from underneath).

The lid is removable only if lid is open as hinge screws are otherwise inaccessible.

There is a bit of wiggle room around the lid latch (at least on mine). The lid latch mechanism moves a bit forward and back toward the window.

But I'm thinking that moving the cabinet to fix a stuck latch might be difficult or impossible if lid is NOT removed first as closed lid sticks down into the fridge compartment.

In worst case scenario, one might destroy the lid latch by drilling one or more holes through the latch until enough of the lid latch is destroyed so latch no longer latches.

Now would.be a good time to take photos of latch from underneath and measure. Do NOT want to drill all the way through latch as drill bit might damage the fridge lid and the fridge compartment--so would need to measure thickness of latch.

Or, rather than waiting until failure, could one drill a small hole in latch body somewhere where one could stick a pin or nail to move stuck or broken latch?

If don't want to mess with existing lid latch and don't need or want that latch mechanism, one could remove or just flatten or distort the metal receiver portion so lid latch can't latch onto anything. Then add a different safety lock or strap.

Another alternative would be to replace the hinges with a different type of hinge with accessible emovable pins with lid closed. This still may not work if rear of lid canNOT be lifted even with unpinned hinges if the support arm prevents movement.

In any case, even replacing the existing latch with the same latch (if one can find) might be a hassle. The existing latch looks like it is hard to access with a glued on? Plastic Fridge door to the wood lid?

Look forward to whatever you figure out.

NOTE: Any chance of taking and posting photos of the latch and how it works as you described the spring mechanism?
 
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Camp

Sprinter Westfalia
I wish I had taken some pictures, but it was before my forum days. I will make sure to document any progress I make towards a better one. My latch had glue and insulation on the back of it, which made trying to take a peek difficult. I'm not going to mess with it again until I'm set on what to replace it with.

Thinking about the metal latch receiver gave me another idea. A blank plate could be fabricated that incorporates a magnet. This would be aligned with the metal latch receiver when the lid is closed, so as to provide a tighter seal. The exterior of the latch with the handle could be reused (would need to cut interior mechanism of handle, or fabricate a blank plate that isn't flush).

This should guarantee that there is no possibility of getting locked out, while still providing somewhat of a latching mechanism.
 
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OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
On the James CoOK Friends Forum fridge thread, poster repaired fridge with new Danfoss/Seco compressor BD35F.

http://forum.james-cook-freunde.de/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=5877&sid=e18e7aa5d65b9d6b6172aa431eb79f4b

Especially interesting was the website to the former Luxembourg employees with new company to service Westfalia fridges. We have the RC1160.

Hello everybody,

so ... my cooler is finally working again ;-)
Ultimately, the compressor was solid (hence the beeping at startup attempt). Since it was still an old four-pole compressor, for which there are no more spare parts, I have at the company "Cool and More" my box on new compressor technology including new control unit can be converted. Everything worked perfectly and now runs like a one again ;-)
"Cool and More" is a company that specializes in all old Westfalia / Electrolux coolers. It is operated by a former service employee of Electrolux in Luxembourg. I would say - no one knows better!

Best regards,
Schiepri

Hello Eric,
a SECOP BD35F was installed. Can you also see on the page www.cool-and-more.de ...

Best regards,

[Website link]

https://www.cool-and-more.de/

Due to the high demand in the service sector regarding the Westfalia compressor coolers, a platform had to be created in which know-how and customer support came first.

That is why we have focused on the Westfalia compressor coolers.

Here we specialize in the product type

RC 1140
RC 1140-1
RC 1142
RC 1144
RC 1160
RC 1162
RC 1130
RC 1132
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
O

OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
http://forum.james-cook-freunde.de/...sid=cb3bfcd64204db5f7f12b980327087a9&start=15

Hello everybody,

with us the fridge is broken. Have ingeniously-thanks to the posts here in the forum found a replacement.
The Electrolux RC 1160 is manufactured by Dometic in Luxembourg. Tel. 0800 222 1234 :!: For example, you get a nice Bernd Weber on the phone, who has assured me that the RC 1160 is identical to the RC 1162 (except for a slightly smaller depth down, you have to compensate). From this refrigerator he still has 2-3 in stock. But these would be reproduced in a dozen if they are sold. Costs 500 € + 50 € freight, in total with VAT :arrow: 643,50 €. He has not arrived yet, I'm curious.

Now I'm just about to expand the old fridge ... :cry: He does not want to go out! The fridge itself is loose and wobbles nicely in the closet. The cabinet is already quite loose in the direction of travel in front. But in the direction of travel behind it's still stuck. The thick hex screw from the high wardrobe behind was good to see and is out. When trying to remove the shelf in the high rear wardrobe or push in the direction of travel to the left, I have failed so far. Above it is loose (3 Spax are out) and a Spax screw I have found in the second compartment from below, which pointed with her head in the direction of travel to the rear, which is also out. Now the shelf still hangs down somewhere.

Where are the ominous hidden screws? In which direction do their heads point in relation to the direction of travel?

Would be great if someone could help me ...

LG Natasha


Hello everybody,
The nice Electrolux employee cited in this post has meanwhile specialized in the repair of Westfalia / Electrolux cool boxes with his company "Cool and More". For the T4 you get with him still coolers (RC1140). For the James Cook, it looks worse because there are no new RC1160. But he can retrofit all the technology I've done with my fridge now (compressor fixed -> new compressor with new electronics, new dryer cartridge and for visual reasons new evaporator and new temperature sensor).
I think this info could be very interesting for you, because I have not yet found this company (Cool and More) in our forum ...

Best regards,
Schiepri
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
O

OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
I should have noted that quotes from the James Cook Friends Forum are after Google Translate.

I wonder if the new company mentioned above also carries the refrigerator latch or the refrigerator top part attached to the wood cover.
 
O

OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
Updates:

1. Replacement Refrigerator Control

In case your Central Computer Console above windshield fizzes out, OneManVan has an inexpensive $15 InkBird ITC-1000 with included temperature sensor which can control fridge. Thread is here:

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73358

2..Replacement Cooling Fan

OneManVan identified an exact same manufacturer updated replacement cooling fan for the fridge condenser.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=730521&postcount=13

Quote from website

MF92251V3-1000U-A99
Sunon Logo
Sunon MF92251V3-1000U-A99
Enlarge
Images are for reference only
See Product Specifications
Share
Mouser #: 369-MF92251V31UA99
Mfr. #:
MF92251V3-1000U-A99
Mfr.:
Sunon
Description:
DC Fans DC Fan, 92x25mm, 12VDC, 39.5CFM, 0.9W, 28dBA, 2400RPM, 0.1inch H2O, Vapo Bearing, MagLev Motor

The Mouser Electronics store is a Berkshire Hathaway company.

There may be other replacements available Mr1987Joker got a DigiKey but no model number posted. But if you can't get a Sunon from Mouser as specified above, you could find something with the same specifications.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=730628&postcount=14

3. Westfalia Refrigerator Specialists

Former Dometic-Electrolux employees founded a company in Germany for the Westalia fridges. The website is a bit weird using Google Translate and trying to find parts. They don't have our entire RC1160 fridge, but their parts for the other Westfalia fridges may be compatible (many parts are identical).

The big deal is they carry the E-Regulator module which attaches to the Danfoss compressor Control Unit under the fridge. You will need to confirm that the module is the one also used for our RC1160 fridge.

Note: If anyone decides for whatever reason (e.g., different thermostat) not to use the E-Regulator module, please do not toss. It'd be interesting to see what's inside.

https://www.cool-and-more.de/

4. Danfoss to Secop to Nidec

Danfoss was a Danish company which made these compressors. Secop, a German company, acquired Danfoss in 2010 but kept production in Denmark. Nidec, a Japanese company, acquired Secop in 2017 or so.

A history of the Danfoss compressor is at the Nidec website:

https://www.secop.com/about-us/heritage/
 
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O

OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
5. Nidec Sale of Compressor Business

Nidec is planning to sell its Danfoss Secop compressor business.

04/22/2019 | 02:31am EDT
KYOTO, Japan, April 22, 2019 (GLOBE NEWSWIRE) -- Nidec Corporation (TSE: 6594; OTC US: NJDCY) (the “Company” or “Nidec”) announced today that two Nidec subsidiaries, Nidec Europe B.V. and Nidec Americas Holding Corporation will sell Nidec’s entire compressor business, Secop, to ESSVP IV L.P., ESSVP IV (Structured) L.P., and Silenos GmbH & Co. KG (collectively “ESSVP IV”), advised by Orlando Management AG (“the Transaction”).

6. Other Versions of BD35F

There is a BD35F-HD version is for rough road conditions where fridge is attached to truck chassis.

There is also a BD35F-B version for buses and their rough road conditions.

Can't figure out the differences from descriptions (and which would be better for a Westfalia, and for offroading).

7. PC Hookup to Danfoss Secop

There looks like free Tool4Cool software on the Secop website.

https://www.secop.com/solutions/application-detail/variable-speed-drive-software-tool4cool/

You will need a Secop One Wire/LIN Gateway connector orna Secop Bluetooth Gateway connector?
 
O

OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
Evaporator Plate

The original is 8" high x 15 1/4" wide.

Unknown manufacturer or supplier of part.

Vitrigo has one which might fit although a different size. The additonal height may block the original temperature sensor and the removable dividers.

https://www.suremarineservice.com/Galley/Vitrifrigo-Plate-Evaporators/PT2-Q.html

The Vitrifrigo PT2-Q (PT2-GW-GR) is 9.8" high x 13.8" wide.

This Dometic one from Australia might also fit. It's almost the same width as original but taller.

https://www.dometic.com/en-au/au/pr...oling-units/dometic-coldmachine-vd-18-_-79726
 
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O

OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
Parts

1. Replacement Evaporator

The German specialty shop Cool and More sells the evaporator for our RC1160 (which apparently is the same for the RC1140).

https://coolandshop.de/p/verdampferplatine

2. Replacement CPT Module

Cool and More sells.two different CPT modules. Do not know what the differences are. Based on OneManVan's inspection, the module in our Westy probably (a) allows the compressor speed to be set at a certain rpm and (b) allows the central computer console to do diagnostics.

https://coolandshop.de/p/e-regler-296-9704-53

https://coolandshop.de/p/e-regler296-9704-20

3. Temperature Sensor

Cool and More sells the temperature sensor for another Westy Dometic fridge, the RC1140 (and successor RC1140-1). As the same central computer console is used in at least one Westfalia model with this fridge, the temperature sensor might work for oir Westy (looks similar).

https://coolandshop.de/p/temperaturfuehler

4. Danfoss Secop BD35F

While Cool and More also sells this compressor, it is widely available. There are different variations including a HD (Heavy Duty?) version and a B (Bus?) version.

Our Westy apparently has a sealed compressor, without Schrader valves to add more refrigerant or check pressures? These valves can be soldered on by a refrigeration specialist.

There are BD35F compressors which are sold with one-time connections and reusable multi-use quick connections. These compressors usually come in kits with a condenser and are often pre-charged with refrigerant.

5. Forced Air Condenser Coil with Fins

Have not found a source for our Westy condenser, often described as a forced air condenser coil with fins.

It seems that most condensers are sold as part of a kit with the BD35F compressor..

There are few of.these kits available with this type of condenser, and I have not found any which puts the condenser in the same position as our Westy (probably Westy specific).

Dometic, Isotherm, Vitrofrigo and Indel sells these kits, precharged and with quick connects. It may be possible to move the condenser coils in these kits to fit our Westy if the refrigerant lines are long enough.

https://www.dometic.com/en-us/us/pr...oling-units/dometic-coldmachine-cu-84-_-79702

https://www.westmarine.com/marine-refrigeration-conversion

https://www.suremarineservice.com/Galley/Air-Cooled-Vitrifrigo-Cooling-Units/

https://www.suremarineservice.com/Galley/Air-Cooled-Vitrifrigo-Cooling-Units/ND35VR3-QV.html

https://www.suremarineservice.com/Galley/Air-Cooled/ISO-40150LA100000.html



6. Fan and Other Parts

The original fan for the condenser was identified by OneManVan in one of the links in earlier posts. Other posters have used other fans but no details as to exact part number.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=740368&postcount=15

There may also be other parts like a drier, but these are often included as part of a compressor kit.

7. RC1140-1

Our Westy comes with the Dometic RC1160 fridge.

The Westfalia T4 and Westfalia Nugget (and perhaps other Westfalia models) use the RC1140-1, and Cool and More sells.this entire fridge.

Unfortunately, the RC1140-1 is a different shape and smaller than our fridge.

It also appears to use a different type of condenser.

https://translate.googleusercontent...700259&usg=ALkJrhgy7nManKYA65FFCZnp8gLMh2LQ8g

8. Our Westy's Unique Air Circulation Setup

Our Westy has a unique way to provide air circulation to the condenser.

The black metal box under the fridge houses the compressor and condenser. There are two circular holes in the floor of the metal box.

The condenser is attached above a fan, and the fan sits above one of the circular holes. The fan blows out the circular hole (does NOT blow directly onto condenser). The sheetmetal attachment for the condenser also directs the air around the condenser to the fan. Air is thus pulled into the black metal box from the other circular hole, drawn over the condenser coil, and then pushed out by the fan.

Mod: Posters on the James Cook Friends Forum suggested adding a divider below.and between the two circular holes to separate air mixture.

Below the black metal box is air space, and then the Westfalia raised floor. There are circular holes in the floor to the space below the floor. That space is adjacent to the tunnel storage area, and there are several air slots between the tunnel storage and the area below the floor under the fridge.

This air space and circulation setup may make other types of condenser setups less efficient than the original Westy setup.
 
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Riptide

Riptide

Active member
I swear, OW, I think I bookmark about half of your posts like this for future reference. Nice job!
 
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