Tail pipe

hkpierce

'02 140 Hi BlueBlk Pass
The tail pipe on my 140 passenger was letting exhaust into the cabin, so it was time to change. The red circle shows a hole all the way through. The tail pipe is original, 13 years and 133,000 miles.
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I ordered a DEC CR20192 for $84 delivered by FedEx air (the air part was not my selection - just seems to be the way FedEx decided to handle it). It is 78-inches long.
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DEC claims the tail pipe was made in the USA. But those sneaky Canadians seem to have left traces indicating otherwise. I like the fact that DEC welds the part number to the tailpipe.
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Comparing the OEM with the DEC, the DEC's bends are more constricting than OEM. DEC doesn't expand the pipe on the female end. Rather, they weld an 1/8 larger diameter pipe on the end. I was not too happy with the weld quality, but we will see.
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Putting the new tailpipe on was easy - but in part because Dusseldorf had crimped the muffler's tail. There was no banging or twisting necessary. I used a 2 1/4 clamp. That clamp size really should have been 2 3/8, but it worked in the end (that is what Channelocks are for). There was no issue with the tail pipe miss-shaped and not fitting.
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Total time from pulling the tools out of the basement and putting them back - about 30 minutes.
 
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220629

Well-known member
Great find HK. :thumbup:

Interesting that the label has

CR20192

Catalytic Converter

EPA Compliant

when it is clearly the tail pipe assembly.

My DIY side exit exhaust "fix" is working fine, but at the price you quote I'll likely be going back to OEM configuration when my muffler finally bites the dust.

Did you need to jack the body up at all for axle clearance to slip the new "over the hump" tailpipe in?

vic
 
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hkpierce

'02 140 Hi BlueBlk Pass
About 16,000 miles from installing the new tail pipe and I started smelling exhaust again. Looked at the system and found that the pipe from the otherwise good muffler was being eaten away. While the easiest excuse is the crimp Dusseldorf put in the pipe, that was not the only location of holes.

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after wire brushing
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I purchased muffler wrap - sorta of fiberglass with a quick setting plaster (FiberFix), and before the tape set, I installed a 2 1/2-inch lap joint clamp (Walker (33976)) that runs all the way to the support bracket. It opens up such that I did not have to take the tail pipe off. The tape fills the gaps between the lap joint and the slight angle between the muffler and tailpipes. Hopefully this will capture that last of the remaining material strength left in the rotting pipe.
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I fear that if the pipe falls off, it will be jerry-rig time to cut out the muffler after the catalytic converter and either weld or clamp in a new muffler. The replacement unit with the catalytic converter and the muffler is very pricey.
 
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220629

Well-known member
There's a couple wire keepers and support slings which I've installed that help to keep the parts from falling off completely when rusty parts break loose.

http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=128492#post128492

http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=302931#post302931

http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=461159#post461159


Not that anyone asked...

The rotting of my 2004 exhaust system seems to always begin at welds and then expand out. I have painted copper anti-seize on every weld joint and exhaust rusty place which I've seen on my 2006. If the rust all comes from within, it won't help. It certainly can't hurt though and the copper color looks pur-tee as a redhead on horseback.

I've made up my mind that when my 2004 muffler completely falls apart I will replace it with a straight pipe from the cat converter to a side exhaust.

My reasons.

The times which my muffler and/or catalytic converter has broken completely loose the sound really hasn't been that bad. The engine ran fine.

I5 engine exhaust manifold leaks are not noisey. There is no loud ticking like from a gas engine.

Other members have posted here that they have used straight pipe to replace a muffler. (It works for them.)

To my knowledge a muffler isn't required for our annual safety/emissions inspection. The noise level is what matters.

It will save a bit of money, and more importantly effort.

Time will tell.

vic
 

Gaspiper

Active member
I had a similar rusty spot but mine happened right after the muffler and actually the muffler fell down !!! A muffler shop did a great job welding in a new pipe and its been exhausting and passing emission tests since just fine :bounce:
 

misterbond10

New member
Ive done a few at home exhaust repairs/replace and here are some good tips i've learned

1. Use these butt/lap joint strap clamps for a better seal on your exhaust slip joints:

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...&submodel=&engine=&Nrpp=&No=&persistYmm=false

2. If you want to be able to remove your slip fittings later on, coat everything in anti-seize

3. This stuff is elusive but hands down THE BEST exhaust sealant out there, and ive found it works as a rust-preventive too. It tends to bake on like powercoat, mine didn't stay gooey but really good stuff (walker 35959)

https://www.amazon.com/Walker-35959...id=1478144394&sr=8-6&keywords=exhaust+sealant



Its going to be hell getting those slip fittings undone with a standard exhaust clamp as they actually crimp the tubing. Another handy tool is the exhaust flaring rental tool from autozone

I had to reweld mine last year as the tail pipe broke off right behind the muffler. The OEM exhaust on mine is high quality stainless, not much rust. Also the clamp started leaking fumes on mine right behind the flex pipe located behind the front wheels so I added a lap joint clamp (see above) and some of that goop and it hasn't leaked a puff since
 
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misterbond10

New member
I had a similar rusty spot but mine happened right after the muffler and actually the muffler fell down !!! A muffler shop did a great job welding in a new pipe and its been exhausting and passing emission tests since just fine :bounce:
Yep same thing happened to me. I saw the crack forming and added another hanger before hand though. Advance auto has some good hangers that attached with a standard muffler clamp, get the ones that hang on rubber straps they last longer, then I drilled and pop rivieted it into the frame. Definatley a good idea so your exhaust doesn't hit the pavement if it breaks



 
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220629

Well-known member
... Definitely a good idea so your exhaust doesn't hit the pavement if it breaks
...
:thumbup:

Your pictures didn't display for me. Here they are.

MufflerPipeSm.jpg

* I've learned to use a hand hacksaw to cut a 45 degree angle slot on the outside pipe where accessible. More cuts than just one helps. I then use pliers to peel the triangle end(s) loose. That helps to separate the pipes with out damage. I use copper bearing Never Seize for all pipe re-assembly. :2cents:

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vic
 
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Thanks to HK Pierce for this write up. I did the similar strap idea with my second tail pipe by filling the holes with welds. Now I'm on my third tail pipe and am now in need of a new short section at the muffler so will need custom work done to it to avoid buying a new muffler. Fwiw, I just tried to buy from DEC and had no luck. Their distributors in MD, Parts Authority and Auto Part International don't carry the tail pipe or have a cross reference numbers. DEC has not listed it on Amazon. The one DEC distributor I had luck with is in Georgia, New Georgia Cats, $120 including shipping. The local MB dealers sell it for $93-125.
 

Gaspiper

Active member
Thanks to HK Pierce for this write up. I did the similar strap idea with my second tail pipe by filling the holes with welds. Now I'm on my third tail pipe and am now in need of a new short section at the muffler so will need custom work done to it to avoid buying a new muffler. Fwiw, I just tried to buy from DEC and had no luck. Their distributors in MD, Parts Authority and Auto Part International don't carry the tail pipe or have a cross reference numbers. DEC has not listed it on Amazon. The one DEC distributor I had luck with is in Georgia, New Georgia Cats, $120 including shipping. The local MB dealers sell it for $93-125.
I have a clean used 2" ID exhaust straight pipe ( Piece of Old Tail pipe ) that is 28.1/8 " yours free if you want to pay for shipping ?
 

hkpierce

'02 140 Hi BlueBlk Pass
Once the rot starts, it never seems to end. This time the pipe broke before the catalytic converters. Nothing to jerry-rig. So I ordered the DEC 20910 from Oscaro for $670 delivered.

The DEC is significantly lighter in total weight - about 28 lbs vs I would guess at least 50 lbs. Notes below on the apparent consequences of this difference. However, as I noted with the tail piece, the thickness of the tubing is substantial - it is not the thin gauge tube.

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The DEC catalytic converter is 49 state compliant - which puts the OM612 engine 2 more state compliant then when originally sold. As even the old OM612s can now be registered in CA, I don't know what this means with regard to using a DEC in CA after a few years of use for those so inclined.

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All seams are welded with the DEC as compared to the crimped OEM muffler.
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INSTALLATION:

I should have taken note of the OEM crimps and cut outs - They were a sign of trouble. The DEC tail piece had fit easily over the old muffler's tail piece. But the new DEC pieces - not so at either end. The tolerances for the new pieces are so close that they only fit when exactly square on, and then need to press hard. That is not doable when the angles from the turbo side and then the end tail piece is attached - lying on your back and man-handling each piece up and in.
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Based on reviews on tail pipe expanders, the cheap ones will not work on the DEC pipe at the gauge is way too thick. What I ended up doing was cutting my own slots on the front side, then using the old tail piece to size the expansion I needed. I also used tailpiece sealer on the joints to fill the gaps I had cut.

OBSERVATIONS

The sound of the smaller DEC muffler is definitely different. It has a tone to it listening at the end of the van, and it is not as quiet as the old muffler. Further, the whole muffler system from the new cat to the end tail piece vibrates much more than the old muffler. Clearly the mass of the old system modulated some of the vibration. I do not know what this will mean for the flexible exhaust component of the exhaust system.
 
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hkpierce

'02 140 Hi BlueBlk Pass
Annoying update on the DEC catalytic converter. I tracked down a metallic banging sound to what I think is the catalytic media bouncing around inside the metal canister. So much for the quality of this American made product.

UPDATE 8/10/2017: a month and 2000+ miles after I noticed the banging sound, the catalytic converter clogged up and caused a breakdown while on a long trip. https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=578766#post578766 posts #5 and 6. Thus, my experience would say - if you hear your catalytic converter media banging around inside of the canister - time to do something about it fairly soon.

UPDATE 8/13/2017: Pictures of what clogged the cat - dislodged insulation: https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=579498&postcount=10
 
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gggGary

gggGary
Thought I'd add in my DIY exhaust repairs. Split at the rear of the (2-3 years old and sketchy) Napa flex coupling and removed everything from there back in one piece. 118" with a trailer hitch. Hint; put van on ramps front and rear, passenger side. Was much better welding on a bench in the shop. I've been fixing several times already. yeah it's not pretty but it's quiet and I'm not worried about it falling off. Due to body rust van is for sale, looking at promaster diesels(brochure sez body panels are galvanized.....) Only replacement muffler was the walker but that's not really a "fit" Note while at farm and fleet I found a Farmall H muffler that would be a "direct fit", 2 1/2" in and out heavy steel construction $27!!! But I welded up the stock muffler seams and put it all back. Note my addition of straps to take some load off of connectors and joints, wish I had done this earlier. If I were going in again I would replace hte front pipe with the $79 Bosal, and find an offset to replace the pipe from the flex to the cats. I just patched the crap out of what was there
(second or third time patching this area.)


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