Moving Forward

Almost finished with build. Have to make my interior panels then...ROAD TRIP!

Moving closer

more money

Damn this is a lot of work

KAR TUNZ


Now I start building the interior panels...Charcoal Grey Tweed with 1/8 foam backing

Hand raised ...
Did you install a vapor barrier?
Did you insulate the roof rails? If so with what?
What thickness did you use for ply wall panels?
What are the lines on rear windows?
Did you leave the oem lights on door switch and what did you do for can lights? Dash, wall, three way switch?
I know I’m gonna regret not doing solar. Also I’m just up the coast from you, in Newport Beach.

Wreckingcrewsdad said:

Hand raised ...
Did you install a vapor barrier?
Did you insulate the roof rails? If so with what?
What thickness did you use for ply wall panels?
What are the lines on rear windows?
Did you leave the oem lights on door switch and what did you do for can lights? Dash, wall, three way switch?
I know I’m gonna regret not doing solar. Also I’m just up the coast from you, in Newport Beach.

Click to expand...

Will use double bubble temp reflecting/vapor barrier on back of interior panels for barrier. Used thinsulate over entire van, including under floor, in doors, pulled through every channel, nook a cranny. Used 2 60" x 30' rolls. 4 boxes of Noico 80 mil 36 sq ft sound deadening. Van is ultra quiet and doors close like an AMG
1/4" birch panels backed with double bubble then covered with 1/8 inch 4 lb high density foam covered with tweed fabric. Glued and stapled. Plan to explore Alaska/Canada so.... LOTS OF INSULATION

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XPD7LTX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

OEM LED lights "center row" still on door switches and console switch. Can turn on and off with light at rear door as well. Outside 8 lights are LED dimmable pucks powered by aux battery and have on/off ..dimmer slider combo switch mounted in headliner. draw 1.4 amps full bright and .18 dimmed.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079TL2KQ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lines on rear glass is the defroster grid

sanomechanic said:

Will use double bubble temp reflecting/vapor barrier on back of interior panels for barrier. Used thinsulate over entire van, including under floor, in doors, pulled through every channel, nook a cranny. Used 2 60" x 30' rolls. 4 boxes of Noico 80 mil 36 sq ft sound deadening. Van is ultra quiet and doors close like an AMG
1/4" birch panels backed with double bubble then covered with 1/8 inch 4 lb high density foam covered with tweed fabric. Glued and stapled. Plan to explore Alaska/Canada so.... LOTS OF INSULATION

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lines on rear glass is the defroster grid

Click to expand...

Got it, thanks. I have gone thru a 30’ roll of thinsulate myself. Used polyiso in the ceiling but haven’t done the rails yet. Was thinking spray foam but might try thinsulate since you got it in there. Still need to do doors and above cockpit head liner Also.
I have the same or similar can lights, Haven’t decided on location but was thinking three way switch by slider and rear door? thanks for the links.

Wreckingcrewsdad said:

haven’t done the rails yet.

Click to expand...

This works wonders pulling thinsulate through those impossible places

https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Gra...t=&hvlocphy=9031554&hvtargid=pla-836655978711

Doing my own spin on this concept. Far less expensive than anything for sale by the Sprinter Accessory Wallet Flushing Specialist out there. Best of all. The bed can be bolted to wall stowed out of the way. Easy set up. Easy to stow. Best of all PRICE under $300. " lashing Rails Excluded.

http://livelikepete.com/sprinter-van-diy-3-panel-platform-bed-on-l-track/

The Aircraft Style flanged L track from US Cargo supply will hold interior panels in place. No need of drilling holes and screwing to body . No screw head exposed. No self drilling holes left to start rusting like RB Components style panels . Way less expensive too.
https://www.uscargocontrol.com/Trucking-Transportation-Tie-Downs/Airline-Straps-Hardware

Going to upholster the birch panels next week.

Man, you are just cranking.

One suggestion though. Please add a few words of text to your pics so we know what we're looking at.

VanGoSki said:

Man, you are just cranking.

One suggestion though. Please add a few words of text to your pics so we know what we're looking at.

Click to expand...

Done

Here is the modular/stowable bed set up. Made the brackets today and have everything set up.

Finishing roughing in the bed and shelf. Finished all wood cutting. Time to start upholstering. Almost finished

shelf

Hey Sanomechanic,

Build is looking great, thanks for sharing! Planning to take a similar approach and with a break in the weather hoping to do the batteries and heater soon.

Would you please share a little more detail on how you routed your cables between the Renogy DC-DC unit, the chassis battery, and the Impact Designs house battery box under the van?

Did you utilize the gland under the driver's seat or take a more direct route to the house batteries? I'm using the Redarc DC-DC unit, and as an alternative toying with the idea of mounting it further back near the wheel well, similar to where you have your subwoofer, and dropping the cables to the house battery box lower in the wall.

Thanks so much, David

Bordi45 said:

Hey Sanomechanic,

Build is looking great, thanks for sharing! routed your cables between the Renogy DC-DC unit, the chassis battery, and the Impact Designs house battery box under the van?

Did you utilize the gland under the driver's seat or take a more direct route to the house batteries? I'm using the Redarc DC-DC unit, and as an alternative toying with the idea of mounting it further back near the wheel well, similar to where you have your subwoofer, and dropping the cables to the house battery box lower in the wall.

Thanks so much, David

Click to expand...

Also used a shunt on battery to monitor how much power used. Drilled holes in driver foot well, installed rubber grommets to keep wires from chafing, used left over self leveling sealer from fan install to seal up. All wires are hidden behind b pillar or go into driver seat box where I have all my circuit breakers and fuse block set up. Only 1 RED cable exposed with the MAIN 200 amp circuit breaker is out side of seat box in case of emergency shutdown. Next to 3000 watt inverter

Today's work... Build shelf...Covered panels with 1/8 inch 4 lb high density foam. Preparing for upholstering. Next project WATER!

Ready for fabric. Then build complete

Between van purchase plus tax, registration, tires, shipping from gulf coast and all build costs down to the last screw
This puppy set me back $83,748

Approx 1 month working on it almost every day 4-6 hours

Would consider selling for $105,000