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Old 02-11-2019, 01:29 PM   #71
tgregg
 
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Default Re: Infamous Espar D2 Error 13 Fault Code.

According to page 13 of this Espar installation manual the 2 180 degree bends in the outlet duct might be causing to much restriction in the air flow.

https://esparparts.com/techsupport/p...ion_manual.pdf
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zmelms (02-13-2019)
Old 02-11-2019, 03:03 PM   #72
rollerbearing
 
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Default Re: Infamous Espar D2 Error 13 Fault Code.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zmelms View Post
Here are some photos of my heater install, still throwing codes 13 and sometimes 14. It has the HAK kit wired in as well as an external temp sensor.

I'm in Alaska and our temps are currently in the 20's. The heater seems to run fine when asked to only maintain a 62-65F temp. If I crank it up to 70F it will give me an error on the next heating cycle.
  • I've re-routed the exhaust to be shorter.
  • I took the 90 degree end cap off of the heater unit and now use the direct end cap with the large curving hose shown. It seems to have fewer restrictions to the airflow but the heater unit still gets very warm - too warm to hold on to.
  • I looked and there are no appreciable bubbles in the fuel line.
  • Heatso suggested "When starting the heater initially, you need to insert 20AMP fuse for heater and only then after few moments to insert 5 AMP fuse. 5AMP fuse is for the controller , inserting it before or together with the heater, controller might not detect what heater it is"
  • I've checked the overheating sensor for "fuzz" as recommended by heatso and it was clean (it's brand new). I did put a voltmeter on the heat sensor to check resistance and managed to get NO readings. I was checking right at the sensor where the leads are soldered on.


One more maybe relevant part. The heater, when it does run continuously, tends to cycle between what seems like LOW and MED LOW. My understanding is that with the external temp sensor the heater should run on HIGH, get to temp, and then shut off until the temp drops again. Nevertheless here's what it does now - On LOW I can hear the pulsing of the fuel as it hits the combustion screen and burns at the same pace as the fuel pump. It's not operating as if the combustion is "catching". I have other heaters I use to heat my workspace, a chinese knockoff and a Planar. Both of those heaters in low mode still have the sound of continuous combustion, just at a lower volume. So maybe I'm carbed up and need to do a teardown and cleaning on a heater unit with less than 3 weeks of run time.... yahoo
Agree with the above about the 2 180 degree turns. Also, your exhaust piping is on the longer side. I wouldn't say either is "too much" but maybe both of them together are having an effect. Do you think the condensed combustion water vapor is draining well from your exhaust system?Also, what altitude are you at right now? If it's not necessary, try it without the HAK.
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zmelms (02-13-2019)
Old 02-13-2019, 05:17 PM   #73
zmelms
 
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Default Re: Infamous Espar D2 Error 13 Fault Code.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rollerbearing View Post
Agree with the above about the 2 180 degree turns. Also, your exhaust piping is on the longer side. I wouldn't say either is "too much" but maybe both of them together are having an effect. Do you think the condensed combustion water vapor is draining well from your exhaust system?Also, what altitude are you at right now? If it's not necessary, try it without the HAK.
I did wonder about the 180 turns but I figured they were ultimately less of an issue than the 90 degree end cap... In order to remove them I'll have to rotate the heater on the mount so the hot air outlet is pointing towards my port on the seat. What gets me is this is the Factory install location, where the stamp is on the floor. But the routing for any vents is super awkward from here....

Altitude is sea level now. I installed the HAK mostly as a pre-cursor to road trips that go to altitude. But I'll try pulling it and cycle things.

As for the exhaust. I don't like exhaust fumes near the primary door opening. And I'll confess that initially I tried routing the exhaust all the way out the back of the van using 12 feet or so of 1.25 inch piping. Needless to say that although it worked for a short while the idea had some significant flaws and was the first item removed in all of this troubleshooting. (for one at low temps the condensed air would eventually freeze, build up, and restrict the exhaust pipe forcing a shutdown). I was more worried here about the bends in the exhaust. And thought about removing 1 of the 90's and routing the pipe across the van to just under the drivers side similar to this: https://radvanadventures.com/2017/02...ion-diy-guide/

Or I'll give up on exhaust routing and cut it down to a bare minimum. We get some subzero nights here and I'd rather be warm in the van than than fighting a heater all night.
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