2010 3500 RV build

hein

Van Guru
We've been living with an annoying rattle/buzz when crossing certain expansion joints. I finally traced it to the top bezel of our Norcold refrigerator. The top of the bezel rests against the face of the cabinet and is apparently prone to vibration. I needed to remove the top of the cabinet (it's attached with velcro) to remove the bezel and consider options to cure the rattle.

So to not let the opportunity go to waste, I decided to upgrade the LED indirect lighting and add a 12V socket for a nice low profile 12V portable fan we found on (you guessed it) Amazon. The result is a warmer interior look, imo. Culprit bezel is at the top of the fridge. I simply added a couple screws at the top to hold it more firmly against the cabinet. The dual fan works great in that position on top of the cabinet. These are the strip lights I am using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF64JG



Each cabinet was originally wired with a large 12V supply cable which then splits off to the various electrical items in that cabinet. So just a matter of tapping into that supply and adding some smaller inline fuses for the light strips and 12V outlet circuits. Much easier than running more wires back to the main fuse panel. Still, it took 1/2 of a day to build the wire harnesses, rework the lights and add the 12v socket.

Rather than use a fuse block, buss or terminal post I bolt together a stack of crimped and soldered eyes with a 10-32 SS screw and nylock nut. Then wrap that with some cloth electrical tape leaving a tail should I need to unwrap for further upgrades or service. The positive connection bundle is then secured to a nonconductive surface. Not photos but could take some if more detail is needed.

I'd like to share another trick that I used when installing the air tank mounting....

There is more infra-structure under our van than most. I'm not shy about drilling holes (with some structural consideration) in the frame for thu-bolting brackets for components and numerous p-clamps to hold wiring, cables and plumbing. One convenience is the ample number of larger factory created holes to fish blind nuts through. The problem is getting and holding the nuts in position while threading in the bolt from the outside. The access hole is often far away from the bolt hole.

Some time ago a wise farmer friend gave me a roll of bailing wire and said simply, "keep this handy."

He may not have ever thought I would wrap it around a serrated flange nut, glue it with CA and then bend the wire tail to wiggle it into the bowels of the frame of my Mercedes Sprinter van. Works great but you need to hold your tongue just right. The wire is sufficient to hold the nut until its teeth grab.





All the best and happy van building,
Hein
 
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hein

Van Guru
Build out a van, go have some fun in it. Things will break. That's a sign of the good life! The CRL windows in our Spinter have been opened and closed many many times. Even drove with them slightly open. When I close them I tend to do it firmly so they don't rattle. Some time ago, I replaced the weather strip after it compressed and allowed the glass to contact the metal frame in some spots.

So what happened? Something in the crank mechanism stripped. Window wouldn't open and wasn't held closed. Suspect was the crank mechanism so needed to remove the window lift mechanism. First step is to remove screws and drill out the 1/8" diameter rivets shown in photos below. There is a plastic cover in the center that snaps out. With a spinning nut behind it.





Now remove the mechanism by pulling the pivot on the right side down out of the channel and then the side with the crank will come out too. The window won't fall out. The plastic bushings on the lift arms slide out of the bottom of the channels attached to the window pane.

Below is a photo showing the complete lift mechanism, new crank, plastic center cover and associated hardware.


I ordered an new crank mechanism from CRL. (DIYvan.com will stock both R and L cranks since it took a long time to get them from CRL.) Below is photo of new and old parts showing that the internal dogs that turn the tube had sheared off.


I cleaned up the edge of the tube where the drive dogs engage. These edges were sharp and had not been deburred so probably a factor in the failure by cutting the softer metal in the crank mechanism.


Decided to replace all the rivets with 8-32 screws. The crank mechanism gets a threaded hole in the top. The location of this hole is more-or-less centered over an unused cross hole. Not the easiest hole to drill and tap. Bottom tap is needed.


more tapping.


Parts reworked and screws ready:


Reinstalling is a little bit tricky. Arms must engage slots in window. Lift assist spring has to be tucked up into the channel. I drilled the holes bigger since the screws are slightly larger than the original rivets. That gave me the ability to adjust the position before tightening. That was easier than installing new pop rivets.

All done:


All the best,
Hein

P.S Due to the long lead time obtaining the crank gear box from CRL, we now stock both R and L versions and also the knobs. Please contact Kim or I to order.
 
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GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
Thank you letting us know. Interesting that driving dogs stripped but gears didn’t, would expect the other way around.
 

hein

Van Guru
Thank you letting us know. Interesting that driving dogs stripped but gears didn’t, would expect the other way around.
The drive sleeve with internal dogs appears to be sintered metal. Once I understood the failure mode, I considered cross drilling and inserting a roll pin (insitu) but decided to replace the part that I waited so long to get.

The other cranks feel looser than the new one so probably due for replacement as well.

All the best,
Hein
 

hein

Van Guru
It was a bad idea to mount an air compressor inside under the seat.



Air systems are never 100% leak free. We have Glide-Rite full rear air suspension so need to maintain a pressurized tank for the air springs. The compressor can come on at anytime and run for 15-30 seconds to top off the tank. It is really loud and turns the passenger seat into a vibrating massage chair. Thinsulate draped over the pump does help the noise but not enough.

I found a nifty place under the hood so in process of relocating the pump there. First thing was to purchase some better isolators to mount it on. The ones that came on the pump are basically solid mounts. More photos and progress coming up.

Trips to the barn with tools and supplies to work on the van are a little easier and quicker (not fewer) these days. I found a non-running American Landmaster 36V E-UTV on CL for fairly cheap. There were no batteries and the electrical system was a dangling maize of wires and cables. Took me a couple weeks to get it figured out and running again.

Photo below. Bringing it home in our Promaster 136HR R&D van. Fits right in.



Running with upgrades!


Have a little thread going on it. Be careful that you don't get sucked into this hobby (as I apparently have). Some crazy buggies out there.

All the best,
Hein
 
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GSWatson

2013 144
It was a bad idea to mount an air compressor inside under the seat.



Air systems are never 100% leak free. We have Glide-Rite full rear air suspension so need to maintain a pressurized tank for the air springs. The compressor can come on at anytime and run for 15-30 seconds to top off the tank. It is really loud and turns the passenger seat into a vibrating massage chair. Thinsulate draped over the pump does help the noise but not enough.

I found a nifty place under the hood so in process of relocating the pump there. First thing was to purchase some better isolators to mount it on. The ones that came on the pump are basically solid mounts. More photos and progress coming up.

Trips to the barn with tools and supplies to work on the van are a little easier and quicker (not fewer) these days. I found a non-running American Landmaster 36V E-UTV on CL for fairly cheap. There were no batteries and the electrical system was a dangling maize of wires and cables. Took me a couple weeks to get it figured out and running again.

Photo below. Bringing it home in our Promaster 136HR R&D van. Fits right in.



Running with upgrades!


Have a little thread going on it. Be careful that you don't get sucked into this hobby (as I apparently have). Some crazy buggies out there.

All the best,
Hein


You’ve no doubt found the “Buggies Gone Wild” forum?

I discovered it while looking for a rear axle for our Burning Man Art Car.

Crazy stuff on there indeed!



Greg
 

hein

Van Guru
Unseasonably beautiful day in Hood River today so had the garage door open up at the barn and working on finishing the compressor relocation project. Must have made 10 trips back/forth in the E-UTV for various tools, supplies and side jobs back at the garage. Enjoyed the drives so maybe subconsciously forgot stuff.

I actually had the compressor mounted earlier in the week but then decided to add the isolation mounts which took a few days to arrive from McMaster Carr. I purchased 3 different durometers and ended up using the harder ones because they can handle more shear. Below is a photo of them attached to the RH inner fender structure.


After contorting my arms & hands to fight with blind nuts I realized that I could easily access the space with the headlight removed. The plastic tank to the right of the photo is my non-stock washer reservoir location. I previously moved that over to the right side so I could install an Isotemp water heater over the LH front fender. Next photo shows pump mounted as seen through headlight opening:


I also removed the forward fender liner so I could route the air hose to the passenger seat pedestal. Hose reel and filter/drier are still located there with another air line continuing to the air tank ahead of the rear axle underneath. Photo below shows hose routed next to DEF fill and vent tubes. (3500 has larger DEF tank underneath.) Cables (in split loom) for the DC-to-DC charger are also routed through this space.


Below. A photo from above with the pump mounted, wired, plumbed and tank re-pressurized. Can still hear it in the cab but not nearly as annoying or loud compared to the former under seat location.


I ran the compressor intake tube into the airbox and located its filter behind the cabin air filter. (which I replaced.)


All the best,
Hein
 
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RoadToad

Retired Jack-O'-All-Trade
Hein... Masterful work ... After reading the whole thread, we are inspired by your craftmanship and dedication ...
This is our mini-bible for our 2013 Sprinter conversion recently started.... Many thanks
 
Hi Hein, You say
The EZcool is not in direct contact with the van outer skin and it doesn't go all the way down (-1/2") to leave the drain channels unblocked.

if that is the case am I to understand that all that is holding the EZcool in place is the 'slits' where necessary and you then foiled taped as best you could to the OUTER shell? Then used adhesive to glue the Thinsulate to the Ezcool?
I have a MWB MB HR Sprinter 2014 and the rib structure looks quite different to your 2010 vehicle.I want to use it in the more difficult areas and was wondering in those situations when you came accross them did you NOT use spray adhesive? I noticed in one pic that you seem to have use foam spray.


Can you clarify this for me, please?
Appreciate your time
Giacomo. Working on a Dream
 

Lostgriz

Member
Re: 2010 3500 RV build (formerly painted seat pedestals)

Is there anyone making and selling this type of support framing?

I want to mount my AC as far back as possible to maximize space for solar.


AC support framing weldments:

Cross member weld fixture. Needed to make four identical cross members to go
longitudinally between the OEM roof cross members.





Front Frame welded. It goes around the 14x14 hole and supports the roof opening. The formed metal frame lying on top is used to clamp the unit against the roof with 4 long screws.



Rear Frame test fit. This holds up the 4 supports on the rear of the AC unit where the compressor and condenser fan are located.



Both frames will be bolted in place using 1/4-20 rivet nuts and glued to the skin with 3M urethane window weld adhesive.

P.S. We filled the roof ribs with expanding foam and sealed the holes with Dynamat. (-Which was a bad idea because the expanding foam did not cure and kept running out on sunny days. We now recommend pulling Thinsulate strips into the ribs.)
 
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hein

Van Guru
Back in 2015 I came up with the idea to make a light bar using our 8020 tower brackets and 15-series LS 8020 crossbars we use to mount solar panels. These are very popular and we've mounted 100s of panels using our system. See this post: https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=375312&postcount=789



The only thing missing was a cover to keep bugs from collecting in the T-slot and to diffuse the light. I called 8020 at the time and ask them to produce a clear cover for the slots. They only had opaque black and silver at the time. The person I spoke to liked the idea and promised to run it up onto the carpet (so-to-speak).

Well they finally delivered: https://8020.net/shop/2871.html And they were kind enough to send me a sample.


I dug out the crossbar with the LED strip and snapped in the cover.







There are some more photos of the mockup at night in this post: https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=375320&postcount=791

We just received a huge order of 8020 1502 and 1517 series LS for crossbars and other lengths for creating solar mounting systems for all kinds of panels. Here are the listings:

1502 https://www.ebay.com/itm/132871157220
1517 https://www.ebay.com/itm/132966921356
Towers: https://www.ebay.com/itm/131702371613

It would be possible to light up any or all of the 8020 used to mount solar panels using this method. It might be necessary to get 1503-LS which we don't currently stock. If this takes off then we will order that too.

All the best,
Hein

P.S. I missed the other posts and will address those questions shortly.
 
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Graphite Dave

Dave Orton
Back in 2015 I came up with the idea to make a light bar using 8020 and our towers. Well they finally delivered: https://8020.net/shop/2871.html




It would be possible to light up any or all of the 8020 used to mount solar panels using this method.
All the best,
Very nice solution. Looks great. I used LED light strips in the bottom slot of the front face of my overhead wall cabinets. Work great but certainly not as well done as your pictures.
 
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OrioN

2008 2500 170" EXT
Fantastic way to increase your solar output! :thumbup::thumbup:

What are you coming up with next, perpetual motion? :smilewink:
 

hein

Van Guru
Hi Hein, You say
The EZcool is not in direct contact with the van outer skin and it doesn't go all the way down (-1/2") to leave the drain channels unblocked.

if that is the case am I to understand that all that is holding the EZcool in place is the 'slits' where necessary and you then foiled taped as best you could to the OUTER shell? Then used adhesive to glue the Thinsulate to the Ezcool?
I have a MWB MB HR Sprinter 2014 and the rib structure looks quite different to your 2010 vehicle.I want to use it in the more difficult areas and was wondering in those situations when you came accross them did you NOT use spray adhesive? I noticed in one pic that you seem to have use foam spray.


Can you clarify this for me, please?
Appreciate your time
Giacomo. Working on a Dream
Thank you for writing. We have moved away from using Low-E on the outside against the skin of the van. We use 3M Thinsulate SM600L against the outside skin and then Low-E as an option on the inside only above the ceiling panels where the depth of the body cavity is less. (1 3/4" vs 3-4" in the walls) The challenge of using Low-E on the outside is keeping it from contacting the skin of the van. And it is difficult and time consuming to install. If it touches the outside skin then thermal conduction will take place which significantly reduces the effectiveness of that layer. It can also trap moisture since it does not breath like the Thinsulate. Thinsulate fibers will draw moisture away from the skin should it occur there. That will keep the water from running down and settling in crevices were it could cause corrosion over time.


Is there anyone making and selling this type of support framing?
I want to mount my AC as far back as possible to maximize space for solar.
We do not currently produce the air conditioner support framing structure that I installed in our van. We use our PVC framing strips (look for the strips in the drop the down list here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/132298140143) to frame out the hole in a similar fashion. If the fore/aft span (distance between OEM beams) is larger then doubling up the strips increases their load carrying capability. The strips are PVC so easy to bond to the skin with 3M windoweld or similar and can be fastened together with plated deck screws to form the framing along the sides, front and rear of the opening. That combined with our roof plate on the outside will do a great job of supporting the AC and provide a solid backing for the clamp ring.

You can find the most common versions of the support plates at our ebay store listed with the roof vent adapters. They are made specific to the brand and model of air conditioner and location on the van. We also produce these for ProMaster and Transit vans. Below are photos of one we produce for Airstream trailers. These large CNC'd plates and the shim/spacer towards the rear also help stabilize the roof metal and distribute the weight of the air conditioner. In added benefit is that they raise the foam seal above pooling water that can occur on the roof. Many of our professional up-fitters are using these. The design and application are patent pending.





More details and photos here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/hein-and-kims-94-excella-183717-3.html

All the best,
Hein
DIYvan
 
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hein

Van Guru
This is a 18V makita, sure a little bigger but is very well made two..

they make two version one with a hand chuck, that is 1 1/4" taller and this one with the Key, very useful.

Sorry for the mess..
Great choice. (And great assortment of stuff in your photo) I replaced my trusty Craftsman with the Makita 90 degree impact driver. I have a bunch of their 18V tools and just started acquiring the small, lighter 12V models. The dual battery 36V (10Ah) Makita chain saw kicks butt. How do you like the musical charger? Couldn't figure out what the jingle was all about at first. It lets you identify when your personal battery is charged. Everyone can have their own tune.

I even considered using their power packs in a house battery system but the cost just didn't add up. I did buy one of their job site coffee makers but it doesn't work well on the battery. It also has a 120V cord and believe it is 500watts so would be great for van use on a smaller inverter.


https://amzn.to/2Vvy2gW

We will be stocking Battleborn batteries at our warehouse. Local pickup only since they take a hazmat shippers certification and you are better off ordering direct if you don't have the opportunity to stop by and see us.

All the best,
Hein
 
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patineto

New member
Great choice. (And great assortment of stuff in your photo) I replaced my trusty Craftsman with the Makita 90 degree impact driver. I have a bunch of their 18V tools and just started acquiring the small, lighter 12V models. The dual battery 36V (10Ah) Makita chain saw kicks butt. How do you like the musical charger? Couldn't figure out what the jingle was all about at first. It lets you identify when your personal battery is charged. Everyone can have their own tune.


Hein
A cure for messiness..


(made images a bit smaller for you)

Much easier to find a whole tool than just a drill bit.

I'm a total Makita convert (I tell you the reason some day) but other brands (Mostly Eras make really good stuff too)

You know for 70 pages I was sure I was witnessing the project of a strange guy I meet in Hoot river, now I just have news for you that you have a "Brother from another Mother"

Joel is a wizard of many things too, super sharp even if I little scatter brain, hell of a Kite boarder too..

Dude, your problem solving skill and overall cohesion of design are absolutely impressive, plus you willingness to teach is very commendable, what a pleasure you read and watch..

Ricky
 
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hein

Van Guru
Drove the van to Portland for some service and stopped at Multnohma Falls for a photo. It was 26F when I left home but none of the plumbing under the van froze. I used the water recirculation system to keep the lines warm. Really need a dash switch to trigger the system. Getting driver and passenger air bags replaced; new fuel filter; new brakes and rotors with fluid flush; replacing weeping pinion seal; having heavy duty rear sway bar removed and lighter duty OEM put bar back on; and sticky starter replaced. Van drove great and enjoyed the early morning cruise through the Gorge. Preparing for some longer trips this year.



All the best,
Hein
 

hein

Van Guru
Exciting times... A pallet full of Battle Born GC2 size 100Ah LiFePO4 batteries arrived at the warehouse today. So Alex and I got two out and dropped them into our all Sprinter battery boxes. These will fit all our battery boxes so I could put 4 under our Sprinter. Only thing is that our FullRiver AGM batteries are still going strong. We plan on engineering a heating system for them and will reach out to Battle Born for help with that. The wrap is Thinsulate(tm) AU-4002-5





These are for local pickup at our warehouse only. We also have DIYvan hats and coffee mugs that we are giving out.

All the best,
Hein
 
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