Freeze Protection Thermostat

Add a Freeze Protection Thermostat to your Home


Many people with Sprinters travel and leave their bricks and mortar unoccupied. One of my concerns has been that my heating system would fail while it is really cold. I keep my programmable thermostat at 60F, but systems do fail.


One weak link that I learned about is that many (most) programmable thermostats need the internal batteries (generally AA size) for operation. I was under the misconception that the batteries were just there to maintain program memory in the event of a power failure and that the thermostat would operate on the 24 volt furnace control power. That is not the case. If your thermostat internal batteries fail, most programmable thermostats quit working. There is no freeze setting fail safe.


Obviously the one thing that should be done is to change the batteries before going away in winter. That will help.


I took things one step further by adding a Freeze Protection stand alone mechanical operation heat thermostat. It just takes a couple pieces of wire and a relatively inexpensive thermostat.


For most heating systems the Freeze Protection Stat simply connects across the RH and W terminals of your programmable thermostat.


This is typical. Check your specific system.




http://www.electrical-online.com/thermostat-wiring-explained/


The thermostat that I selected is a Lux T101141SA Mechanical Heat Thermostat (Mercury Free). About 20 bucks. I like that it doesn't allow a setting below 50F (there is no "OFF" setting). I set and marked mine at 55F.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E7PZUY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The general good news is that even if you do lose heat in a typical building the temperature doesn't drop like a rock. My experience is that with a 70F inside temperature initially the temperature will fall to the 50 - 45F range and stay there for some time. The temperature is stabilized as the heat leaves any mass inside (furniture, building materials, etc.).


In my case I have some other temperature monitors/controls in my home.


I have a natural gas heater in my living room that I set to full burner output with the thermostat set to 53F or so.

I use a remote temperature monitor. I place what is normally the remote outdoor thermostat sensor inside a window and give the receiving display unit (300 foot range) to a neighbor to watch. That way he can respond if our inside temperature should get too low.


A security alarm system can also have a temperature sensor included to monitor your home temperature and even your refrigerator or freezer.

vic

Here's some pictures in case anyone needs convincing that a freeze stat and other precautions are worth the effort/expense.

A contractor asked me about my freeze stat particulars. The owner he is working with had been away from home about 10 days. When a security camera was checked the kitchen ceiling pieces were noticed on the floor.

This is what the contractor walked into. The 2nd floor bathroom is located above the ceiling area that fell. I suspect that a feed pipe failed somewhere in the ceiling area or maybe a wall. The water is still off which obviously makes the home uninhabitable. The pipes have not been tested yet. There may be more than just one failed area in the water system.





The damage is very extensive. The completely open joists in the kitchen make it look like it is a remodeling project, not damage from a burst pipe. Free water didn't get upstairs, but the 2nd floor hardwood floors are buckled from the general high humidity. The finished basement needs basically a total rebuild.

The furnace kicked right on after the AA batteries in the thermostat were replaced. All that damage because 2 ea. AA batteries ran low.

My advice, not that anyone asked...
1 week before leaving your house during cold weather, change out the batteries in your thermostat. Use good quality name brand batteries. Watch the sell by date. If you have a voltmeter test the voltage. Brand new fresh AA 1.5 volt batteries will usually test somewhere around 1.56 - 1.6 volts. A 1.5 volt reading is not optimal for brand new batteries.

Consider turning off the main water valve(s). If the system isn't drained or blown out then freezing can still damage plumbing parts, but the damage and repairs will be much less if found right away after the main valve is opened to restore service.

FWIW. vic

Added:
Preliminary inspection shows at least 3 different failed components. One failed pipe had a fitting blow right off the end of a 1/2" copper tubing. Imagine your open ended 1/2" garden hose at full blast. And that was just one leak that was pouring water into the house.

Additional thoughts for the "Freeze Stat" described in Post #1.

I call my added mechanical thermostat a "Freeze Stat", but it is really a 100% backup for heating. If for some reason the electronic thermostat stops working, and the house is occupied, the "Freeze Stat" can easily be adjusted up to a comfort range.

You won't have programming/setback ability, but it will keep the house comfortable. It may be good to add to a technology challenged senior citizen's heating system. Most everyone understands how to work an old style thermostat.

vic

Refer back to post #2 for the damage from freezing pipes.

The damage was even more extensive than originally thought. All of the 1st floor flooring has been replaced. 1/2 of the hardwood flooring needed to be replaced. The kitchen was fully gutted down to the studs and remodeled. The 2nd floor full bath and 1st floor 1/2 bath were also gutted.

It could have been worse. The plumbing inspector mentioned that in the same village another home had broken pipes. The freezing water displaced the foundation. His prediction is that the house will ultimately be demolished.

I learned that for disasters insurance helps, but doesn't make you whole. They also low ball everything (no surprise there).

Some advice from a Fire chief. For major home damage hire an insurance advocate. Hiring a consultant will lengthen the process for insurance payments, but you will end up better off in the long run. Unfortunately my discussion with the FC happened after the fact for this major disaster. I had never heard about or considered an insurance advocate before his comments.

vic

I would turn the water off at the exterior and drain the interior plumbing.