Kitchen 15A fuse keeps blowing
- Thread starter Adolphus
- Start date
autostaretx
Erratic Member
Vibration from driving can cause things to damage a cable harness that's pressed against them (by rubbing/chafing).
Does it pop instantly, or only on a (say) weekly basis? (intermittents are *sooo* much fun to track down...)
Does it pop if you unplug everything? (if feasible)
--dick
Does it pop instantly, or only on a (say) weekly basis? (intermittents are *sooo* much fun to track down...)
Does it pop if you unplug everything? (if feasible)
--dick
autostaretx
Erratic Member
So it's a "solid" failure... which makes it MUCH easier to chase down with an ohmmeter.
Disconnect AC feeds from any sources (shore power, generator, inverter), leave fuse holder empty, connect ohmmeter probes into one of the kitchen outlets ... should show low (near zero?) ohmage ... now poke around to locate things like loose connections (in the outlet boxes), wires fallen out of wire nuts or crimp connections, investigate RV documentation to see what "hidden" gadgets are also hooked onto that circuit (water heater? water pumps? installed lighting?). Look behind the fuse panel itself, too.
If any of the wires are "outside accessible", look for rodent chewing damage.
--dick
p.s. "should show low ohmage" ... that's when it's failing. If it was happy, the resistance should be very high (or infinite).
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I’m sure you’re right. I’m trying to think where I might have caused it during my ac conversion, and will start by unplugging everything I see that goes to the kitchen lights and fan. I just purchased 15 more 15A back up fuses and probably will be hearing a lot of pops as I go through this exercise 
autostaretx
Erratic Member
DON'T USE FUSES for the test ... do it UNpowered with an ohmmeter.
(far safer, far more "guidance" as to the cause)
Even a "free from Harbor Freight" ohmmeter is more than adequate for this hunt. (or $15 at any hardware store)
--dick
p.s. consider that you may have more than one problem... and the "fuse test" will only find the obvious one.
It's the UNobvious ones that can impart fatal amounts of current that wouldn't be anywhere NEAR popping the fuse.
p.p.s. ALSO check the conductivity between BOTH sides of your kitchen circuit to the Sprinter's frame metal.
They should be totally isolated. (with a nuanced arm-wave for inverter neutral/frame bonding)
(far safer, far more "guidance" as to the cause)
Even a "free from Harbor Freight" ohmmeter is more than adequate for this hunt. (or $15 at any hardware store)
--dick
p.s. consider that you may have more than one problem... and the "fuse test" will only find the obvious one.
It's the UNobvious ones that can impart fatal amounts of current that wouldn't be anywhere NEAR popping the fuse.
p.p.s. ALSO check the conductivity between BOTH sides of your kitchen circuit to the Sprinter's frame metal.
They should be totally isolated. (with a nuanced arm-wave for inverter neutral/frame bonding)
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autostaretx
Erratic Member
Wire nuts?
--dick
--dick
Just an FYI: This thread is about the 12v system with the automotive type fuses behind the rear bench seat.
Autocamp posted on his Eat Drink blog that the fuse box had been turned upside down and the wrong fuse sizes used as a result (or something like that). So may want to confirm that the other fuses work for the right circuits so you're narrowing down to right circuits.
As you removed the various ac and upper kichen cabinets, a wire may have become dislodged.
When the driver side awning window was being fixed, the same fuse was blown a couple of times from the disconnected light wires touching by accident.
Please keep us posted.
Autocamp posted on his Eat Drink blog that the fuse box had been turned upside down and the wrong fuse sizes used as a result (or something like that). So may want to confirm that the other fuses work for the right circuits so you're narrowing down to right circuits.
As you removed the various ac and upper kichen cabinets, a wire may have become dislodged.
When the driver side awning window was being fixed, the same fuse was blown a couple of times from the disconnected light wires touching by accident.
Please keep us posted.
Good points. When it seemed like an intermittent problem 2 weeks ago the kitchen lights and fan wouldn’t turn on until a new fuse was used. Now those same lights and fan are inoperable since a new fuse blows immediately with all switches off. I tried to be careful but I may have to take off the cabinets +/- side awning trim again to ferret it out.
In other thread about mice
sprinter-source.com
DanielMcCoy's post provides info about the wiring in the upper kitchen cabinet for the lights (between the lower shelf and the bottom of the cabinet).
The rest of the wiring for the lights presumably goes behind the metal backsplash and to the fuses.
The fuse block looks like it unscrews and removes from the front. I don't know what type of access there is to behind the fuse block. Usually, you can access that area from the dishpan compartment: removing the protective L cover around the main 12 volt switch, then the panel against the back of the bench seat.
The other removable panel is inside the small top compartment with a hinged door.
Finally, there may be detailed instructions in the CD-Rom instructions. The pdf version is at http://sprinterwestfalia.com/
Please post whatever you find and do. Thanks.
Mice and House fuse issue in westy
I caught few mice in the house of my westy. I tried few things to persuade them it is not a good idea. However, in my last trip the kitchen lights all of a sudden stopped working. I checked the manual and it looks like it was the Fuse. I replaced the fuse and it keeps burning on the spot. What’s...
DanielMcCoy's post provides info about the wiring in the upper kitchen cabinet for the lights (between the lower shelf and the bottom of the cabinet).
The rest of the wiring for the lights presumably goes behind the metal backsplash and to the fuses.
The fuse block looks like it unscrews and removes from the front. I don't know what type of access there is to behind the fuse block. Usually, you can access that area from the dishpan compartment: removing the protective L cover around the main 12 volt switch, then the panel against the back of the bench seat.
The other removable panel is inside the small top compartment with a hinged door.
Finally, there may be detailed instructions in the CD-Rom instructions. The pdf version is at http://sprinterwestfalia.com/
Please post whatever you find and do. Thanks.
In other thread about mice
Mice and House fuse issue in westy
I caught few mice in the house of my westy. I tried few things to persuade them it is not a good idea. However, in my last trip the kitchen lights all of a sudden stopped working. I checked the manual and it looks like it was the Fuse. I replaced the fuse and it keeps burning on the spot. What’s...
DanielMcCoy's post provides info about the wiring in the upper kitchen cabinet for the lights (between the lower shelf and the bottom of the cabinet).
The rest of the wiring for the lights presumably goes behind the metal backsplash and to the fuses.
The fuse block looks like it unscrews and removes from the front. I don't know what type of access there is to behind the fuse block. Usually, you can access that area from the dishpan compartment: removing the protective L cover around the main 12 volt switch, then the panel against the back of the bench seat.
The other removable panel is inside the small top compartment with a hinged door.
Finally, there may be detailed instructions in the CD-Rom instructions. The pdf version is at http://sprinterwestfalia.com/
Please post whatever you find and do. Thanks.
Well as I posted on the other thread..... opened up the bottom of top kitchen cabinets by removing the nails with a lederman Knife blade. The right shelf has a nice knotch that allows you to lift the shelf and I found some droppings there but nothing else.In other thread about mice
Mice and House fuse issue in westy
I caught few mice in the house of my westy. I tried few things to persuade them it is not a good idea. However, in my last trip the kitchen lights all of a sudden stopped working. I checked the manual and it looks like it was the Fuse. I replaced the fuse and it keeps burning on the spot. What’s...
DanielMcCoy's post provides info about the wiring in the upper kitchen cabinet for the lights (between the lower shelf and the bottom of the cabinet).
The rest of the wiring for the lights presumably goes behind the metal backsplash and to the fuses.
The fuse block looks like it unscrews and removes from the front. I don't know what type of access there is to behind the fuse block. Usually, you can access that area from the dishpan compartment: removing the protective L cover around the main 12 volt switch, then the panel against the back of the bench seat.
The other removable panel is inside the small top compartment with a hinged door.
Finally, there may be detailed instructions in the CD-Rom instructions. The pdf version is at http://sprinterwestfalia.com/
Please post whatever you find and do. Thanks.
to remove the left shelf I had to remove the trim by shimming the Lederman knife and pulling it carefully. There I found a nice nest with engine insulation. Really cozy and always dark! Smart critters!!!
about to troubleshoot the electric part now
