So here goes my Van Gogh project!!

GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR
Very often a rotated picture needs to be saved, it is not enough if a picture looks good on a screen, saving step is necessary to save the rotation or any other corrections.

George.
 

Luc

Member
Very often a rotated picture needs to be saved, it is not enough if a picture looks good on a screen, saving step is necessary to save the rotation or any other corrections.

George.
Will have to try that. It's strange because all my other pictures were taken and imported the same way and came out fin... iPhone, and PC laptopt

Thanks!
 

Luc

Member
A little more progress!

I wanted to try something different for the ceiling, so I got some translucid Coroplast, and fixed it to the roof with aluminium flat bars and button head bolts and Riv-Nuts.

Mounted the lights right in there. I have to say I like the look. Considering the rest of the van will be mostly wood, this material change is good for me. I left the width of a 4' wide sheet and the remaining gaps on the sides will be hidden with the upper cabinets that will run on either side of the van.

Only part I don't like as much is the wire showing through... But I'll learn to live with it I think.
Only need to cut out my Maxxair fan.
As for the sunroofs, considering they don't even open, I think I'll leave them covered like this because I'll save a lot of time trying to do edge treatment og the hole I would cut out. And on the plus side, it gives nice diffuse lighting.

Also mounted some L-Track single point anchors on the main ceiling rib. These will serve for my motorcycle winch installation (this is moving ahead nicely also, can't wait to show you I think it will be quite interesting)
 

Attachments

Luc

Member
OK! So I made some very good progress this week!

Let's start with ventilation. I was racking my brain for quite a while to find a good/nice/affordable solution for fresh air intake while I exhaust with the roof fan, without having to open a window. I knew I wanted to do something in the sliding door vertical step.

I ended up using 2" shower drains. Stainless plate (which is still magnetic, so I can put on caps in while driving to reduce road noise), easy to install. Glued a mosquito screen on the back of it so no critters can enter.

Pretty happy with the result
 

Attachments

Luc

Member
Then, it was time for some electrical progress.

I had already fitted my solar panel and prepared all the brackets a few weeks ago. I was just waiting to get my electrical panel in place before setting it on the roof.

I was just about done when I realised that I had AC breakers instead of DC breakers!!! After a bit of research I was convinced that I needed DC breakers. I was able to get them shipped overnight and install everything today.

While today in the early morning I went to my electrical supply store where they let me use their nice industrial battery lug crimping tool, for free.

The night before I had prepared (I have to state that my father is always there helping me with virtually every step. He's a real soldier, and invaluable) so "we" had prepared all the cable and connections so that when we got to crimping we didn't have to figure anything out, and just go at it. It went really well, around 30 minutes for about 14 crimps.

Once everything was in place and the panel on the roof, the pure joy I had to connect via Bluetooth with the VE Direct from Victron. I can not describe the pleasure I felt seeing I was generating 6W from my 280W panel, in pouring rain! :) I love good gear.
 

Attachments

Luc

Member
An last thing done today : some prep work for attaching my sofa/bed.

I'm still not quite sure how I'm going to do this bed, but I know I needed some vertical supports where I will attach the backrest of the sofa, which will detach to form the full size bed.

So I fixed some Unistrut sections I had left over. Cut some slits into it so I could bend it to match the curved shape of the van, and fixed it in place with Riv Nuts. Nice and solid!

Dimensions in picture are just to help me when the wall will be closed up :)
 

Attachments

HarryN

Well-known member
Very nice work - looks great.

Love the idea of using drains as the air intake.

Hex crimper - the best kind AFAIK. Which one did you get?
 
Last edited:

Luc

Member
Very nice work - looks great.

Love the idea of using drains as the air intake.

Hex crimper - the best kind AFAIK. Which one did you get?
Forgot to pick-up the name, but it's the big contractor tool the rent out to pro's at my electrical supply store. It's made to be used with the Thomas&Betts battery cable lug system.

Yeah, really like my air intakes, thanks :)
 

Luc

Member
So yesterday I was able to completely varnish my side panels and re-install them all. I might need to remove 1 or 2 in the next week to fix my sofa back rest on the Unistrut sections...

I love the end result. Installed Sooooooo many Riv Nuts :)

The parts on the bottom of the walls that are still exposed to the urethane, will be covered with the Kitchen and sofa base, So I didn't bother.

The top sections on either side will be filled in with continuous storage cabinets, resting right on my L-tracks.

Then end is close!!! (well, enough to go out with a toilet, stove, and fridge) :)
 

Attachments

LVMike

New member
I read through the thread and I'm curious about your flooring. Is the polyiso sandwiched between the floor and the 3/4" ply without the use of any spacers or wood strips ? I see a lot of builds where they use wood spacers/slats and fill those cavities with either spray foam or sheet is.. but that doesn't sound like what you did...? If so, how do you feel about it? It the floor squeaky or mushy?
 
Last edited:

Luc

Member
I read through the thread and I'm curious about your flooring. Is the polyiso sandwiched between the floor and the 3/4" ply without the use of any spacers or wood strips ? I see a lot of builds where they use wood spacers/slats and fill those cavities with either spray foam or sheet is.. but that doesn't sound like what you did...? If so, how do you feel about it? It the floor squeaky or mushy?


Yep. That's exactly what I did. There is nothing underneath the polyiso. I actually prefer having those air spaces in case any water gets in there it will have a small chance of drying up.

As for for the squeakyness or mushiness, i can't feel either of them. This foam jas a pretty good compressive capacity when its not a concentrated load so with all the fasteners i have with the riv-nuts, i feel the plywood clamps just perfectly on the insulation. The L tracks on the floor also help clamp everything down.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Luc

Member
Some more progress!!

I actually took the camper for a first "real" trip last weekend with operational fridge, sink, stove, toilet, and solar. Mattress was on the floor and still a bunch of cabinets left to do, but I could definitely feel how nice this will be very soon.

The thing that set me back a whole evening, was realizing that my cheapo 12V switches (little round black things with a blue light) from Amazon were really CRAP!!!! And deciding to abandon them after a full night of fiddling with the contacts and having terminals bent to hell... Bought some good old trusty rocker switches and they work just fine!!
 

Attachments

Luc

Member
Sofa/Bed frame is now done!

Considering all of the interior setup is basically a "trial" version. I racked my brain a lot in order to make a simple version of the bed, in order to validate the geometry and everyday usage.

So the principle is 2 single mattresses, cut down to 27" each. So together they make up a standard double bed.

The back rest is anchored to the back wall with take-appart bed hardware like this, mounted on hinges to ease installation when alone:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?cat=3,40842,43730&p=65557

When in bed mode, I just unhook the backrest, flip out the support legs:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?cat=3,41306,41309&p=40035

And then move it in front of the base module and hook it up to it using this hardware:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?cat=3,40842,43730&p=65401

Although it's not the "most" simple and easy to use setup (opposed to pushing on a button and having motorized cam movements), I'm pretty happy with it. At least, it will allow me to get out there this summer and try it all out.
 

Attachments

GeorgeRa

2013 Sprinter DIY 144WB, Portland OR

Luc

Member
Some more good progress this weekend!

In the pictures you don't see it complete 100%, but I got all the upper cabinets built, varnished and installed.

Also did my sliding door and rear door plywood cover panels (not in pictures yet).

I put in around 10-12 hours per day from Friday to sunday! Great feeling seeing things really coming together
 

Attachments

Luc

Member
So here I am today, a HUGE step for me. Cabinets are installed and finished (just missing some doors on the top cabinets but that will be next year I think)

Sliding door and rear doors got plywood panels.

Installed the electrics for my winch that will pull in my motorcycle on a ramp (pictures coming for that part, very proud of how it all came together. Getting the bike in and ou will be a breeze AND safe)

All I am missing right now is some drawers and doors under the kitchen counter, some drawers under the bed, and some storage/cover for the passenger wheel well and house battery.

Should get all of that done before my first real big trip on july 15th
 

Attachments

Eka

New member
The thing that set me back a whole evening, was realizing that my cheapo 12V switches (little round black things with a blue light) from Amazon were really CRAP!!!! And deciding to abandon them after a full night of fiddling with the contacts and having terminals bent to hell...
If you really want that style of the round switches, DigiKey handles them. Pay attention to the current rating of the switches. A round switch like this one can only handle 3 Amps. You can increase the current handling by using a relay, but that draws a bit of power to actuate the relay unless it is an electronic relay, but they may need heatsinks or cooling. Also pay attention to the illumination voltage. You may need a LED current limiting resistor for some switches. The specification sheet for the switch should have tell you what size resistor to use.
 

Luc

Member
If you really want that style of the round switches, DigiKey handles them. Pay attention to the current rating of the switches. A round switch like this one can only handle 3 Amps. You can increase the current handling by using a relay, but that draws a bit of power to actuate the relay unless it is an electronic relay, but they may need heatsinks or cooling. Also pay attention to the illumination voltage. You may need a LED current limiting resistor for some switches. The specification sheet for the switch should have tell you what size resistor to use.
Yep thanks! I was aware of this. But in the end, I really like the "old" style toggle switch look and positive feel action
 

Top Bottom