Fuel Filter Change

Echoing back all the thanks for folks in this thread - I ordered a filter based on website's guess at model # required based on model year of van, and.... wrong one. Eurovans to rescue... not sure why I didn't look earlier.

I was going to take beautiful pictures with very narrow DOF to clearly show the process but:

1. already been done
2. it'd just highlight my **** show mechanic skills.

cheers,
Erik

Thanks for all the great info everybody.

Just finished replacing the fuel filter in my 2006 Dodge Sprinter 2500 (T1N, OM647).

I don't know when the filter had been replaced by the previous owner. It looked fairly new and was a MANN A642 092 05 01 (MB). The fuel lines were held by two worm-drive clamps.

I was worried but all went smoothly. I used an Hengst H278WK filter; it came with two o-rings for the WIF. It does not have dustcaps. I purchased two better clamps. I removed the plastic skirt that was on the Hengst filter.

Removing the smaller fuel line was a bit more difficult than the supply line. The WIF came out fairly easily, just using gentle pulling and back-and-forth rotating.
I did not pre-fill the new filter with diesel; just turned on the ignition 10 times (because I had read that somewhere) for a few seconds after the glow plug lamp went off and let the pump fill it.

Van started no problem, drove for 10 miles, and restarted it -- all seems OK.

Couldn't do all this without this forum!

fuel filter change,I think I broke the water sensor

I finally got around to doing this, and it is very simple, and would only take 5-10 minutes the second time.
However, the plastic post did not go in easily after changing the O rings.I checked O rings, they were in the grooves , I forced the post in .I don't think its ever coming out again.

The sensor goes in much easier if you lube the o rings and their grooves with a thin film of 100% silicone grease.

Did this yesterday. A few notes to share for those in the future:

• I had a heck of a time getting the WIF sensor off... lots of gentle jiggling and be sure to push on the "clip" in the right spot to "open" it up. Access isn't great... I believe I used the end of a small plastic brush to confidently push the "clip".
• I attempted to remove the factory "clic" type hose clamp with needle nose pliers. I was unsuccessful and afraid I was going to ruin the thing or bang up or scratch or cut something else nearby. My tools were not up to snuff. I ordered THIS set of pliers from Amazon. The craftsmanship of the tool is garbage (what do you expect for $10?) but it totally got the job done. I replaced the "clic" style with fuel injection style clamps from EuropartsSD.
• I got my HENGST fuel filter (P/N: H278WK) from Europarts SD - purchased on 1/26/2023.
• Removing the old WIF sensor was not easy... just careful rocking, twisting, and a bit of prying under one of the two plastic "arms" did the trick.
• Installing the WIF sensor on the new filter (with the provided o-rings lightly coated in diesel) was *very* easy... almost too easy. There was a light "pop" at the very end which I think was the o-ring(s) setting into place. It really didn't take me too much effort to do this.
• I was extra careful when removing the old o-rings. I had @gilee 's post (HERE) haunting me the whole time. I used a "flat head" type metal pick with minimal sharp points. It's really all I had. They were easy to get off.
• Be careful with the torx screws that go into the plastic on the WIF sensor... the PO (or their mechanic) had stripped one of mine.
• There is about a cup of fuel in the filter you'll need to figure out what to do with.
• The interior of the MOPAR filter (P/N: 05175429AB) was visually very different than the interior of the Hengst filter.
• I tightened the new hose clamps (13mm and 15mm) "snug" by hand with a screwdriver. I needed to use one of "flex couplers" to reach one of the 7mm hose clamp hexs. I ended up with the "flats" on the hose clamps being touching, or almost touching.
• I did *not* fill the new filter with fuel. I did *not* open the "water outlet". After installed, I turned the key half way and went and went around and listened closely. I could hear the fuel filter fill up (rather quickly) and then some "fluidy" sounds for a short time after. I have to wonder... physically, where does that volume of air go?!
• After three "half key turns" for about 20 seconds, my first startup was flawless, but like some others have noted, I swear the van needs to crank for 0.5s longer now before firing up.
• For the entire operation... even while being careful, I was rather worried about introducing "contaminants" into the system. In fact... I still am.
• No new CEL's popped up after this process. No Leaks from any of the connections. Fingers crossed.