Wiring Heater Booster to run from Switch

vanski

If it’s winter, I’m probably skiing..
Vanso, Seems like you and I are of the same cloth; you’ll get a lot of value from this mod. Honestly, 5 amps/hr over 10 hrs might be conservative. Without going over all your consumption in a spreadsheet, I’ll just throw out a number and double your bank at 300 amp hours/150 usable.. That should put you in safer territory. Before just adding another battery, go to a professional battery shop and get the old one equalized.

The thermostat is just another switch. You could have a positive bus bar where all your switches lead; thermostat, single pole switch, remote.

The 7 day timer is nice as you can program it to kick on at certain times. The greatest benefit is the diagnostic capabilities. But it’s not a must have.
 

220629

Well-known member
...

Aqua Puttana: Thank you for the link to your mod. You mentioned it was designed for pre-heating the engine. I read through the post but I couldn't find if it would allow me to bypass the time out on the rest function. Just wanted to confirm if it does allow me to run the heater for 8-10 hours without needing to get up and hit the button again.
I wanted to develop a simple solution for engine pre-heat. Using the OEM REST enables both the Aux Electric Coolant Pump and the Cabin Fan (window defrost) for a set time (approx. 30 minutes). That avoided needing extra relays, extra switch poles, or other components. My method could be modified for longer operation, but it would take some additional design.

...Also, if I was running the heater all night, can the heater, pump and fan handle running for that long? Ie: am I risking anything from a safety standpoint.

...
All of the components are capable of operating for extended periods of time.

:cheers: vic
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
I have spent Xmas nights in Canada getting up every two hours or so to punch the timer's button.
The Sprinter was young and foolish in those years, and the starter battery survived the exercise and started us in the morning.

--dick
p.s full disclosure: the wife's bladder ensured that *I* wasn't the one pushing the button :whistle:
 

Lotus54

Member
I checked the current draw on my setup (the multi relay one, drawing from house battery)..

It is a bit over 6 amps after startup with low speed fan. Higher speeds on the fan draw quite a bit more.

The relay setup and wiring is really easy, I liked how it is ‘stand alone’. But I was many years as an electronics tech, so a few relays are pretty darn easy.

For my setup, it was about 6.3 Amp draw, since I have an Airstream Interstate and it has a battery disconnect. If I had the propane relay ON and anything else, of course the total current would be more.
That is quite a bit of power to use for an extended time, with not all that wonderful of interior heat return.
I like to use it to get the coolant system warmed up also (for defrost/Defog etc)-plus putting some heat in the van.

I have a propane furnace, so don’t need to use it for heat. But the tank is not very big (6 gallon) and the refrigerator also uses some, plus any cooking or if I run the generator.
I’ve considered installed a diesel ‘air’ heater (several out there) since it is a lot easier to full diesel than propane. Plus the propane furnace draws power also for the fan etc.
But I have not done anything, finding a location to put it, installing some ducting, control, power etc. And I don’t really need it that often for long periods of time. Probably a LOT easier to just use a bit more propane.
But that is for me, obviously you do not have a furnace.
 

kkanuck

LUV my T1N
I wanted to develop a simple solution for engine pre-heat. Using the OEM REST enables both the Aux Electric Coolant Pump and the Cabin Fan (window defrost) for a set time (approx. 30 minutes). That avoided needing extra relays, extra switch poles, or other components. My method could be modified for longer operation, but it would take some additional design.


All of the components are capable of operating for extended periods of time.

:cheers: vic

Just curious as I was not able to see the answer to this in my search, if I go out to a cold van, and turn on the Espar normal not using the rest button, will it still work if I get in a cold van and drive right away and want the spar to bring heat faster then the engine?
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
Just curious as I was not able to see the answer to this in my search, if I go out to a cold van, and turn on the Espar normal not using the rest button, will it still work if I get in a cold van and drive right away and want the spar to bring heat faster then the engine?
Yes.

(that's why it's called a "booster heater" if you haven't got the "auxiliary heater" options).

My usual winter-time commute to work was "go out, start the engine, push the button" .. and while waiting for the 3nd traffic light from my house (3/4 mile?) the Temperature gauge was visibly rising and warmth (i.e. "above ambient") was available from the cabin heater.

--dick
 

kkanuck

LUV my T1N
Yes.

(that's why it's called a "booster heater" if you haven't got the "auxiliary heater" options).

My usual winter-time commute to work was "go out, start the engine, push the button" .. and while waiting for the 3nd traffic light from my house (3/4 mile?) the Temperature gauge was visibly rising and warmth (i.e. "above ambient") was available from the cabin heater.

--dick
Thanks for the response.

I was aware of how it worked without this modification and used it accordingly as well. I was just uncertain if after the mod, it changed this or not, meaning the heater fires as before the mod, by pressing the center button, not the rest button after the Aqua mod fir use with engine off.

Thanks for clarifying...
 
I am interested in the same for my 06 in the SD area. I have never used the Espar unit in the driver side front wheel area, but would like the ability when needed. One time while waiting on a cold winter night at Palomar Airport to pick up a friend, I did use the residual heat dial option and could fell the warm air for a short while. Having the use of the diesel heater would be great, especially if I could run it off of my three aux. batteries and not the one and only starter battery. Happy New Year. Thanks to all here.
 

BULBASOR

Active member
First off big thank you to everyone for this modification and the terrific schematics. I've built my harness, repaired my circulation pump and tested the OEM functionality of my Heat Booster before starting modifications. I've built the relay circuit and am ready to tap into the dash harness.





Now for the question. My van does not have the 7 day timer, nor the harness. I'm trying to locate the three wires that must be tapped and thought it smart to confirm before injecting power. I believe I have located all three wires in the plug that goes into the HVAC control. Can any one confirm? I've seen that I might need to find a larger blue wire than pictured in this thread.

Green Red - To Water Pump


Blue - To Fan
Black/Blue/Dotted White - To Heat Booster


Thank you!

Dan,

I saw your you tube video and I want to do my 2004 T1N but your picture has me reeling. You created that harness and it looks great - does it plug into something?

is there a plug somewhere in the dash that that plugs into?

I really want to do this but I'm still afraid of this modification because I don't fully understand where all these relays and wire terminals mentioned on the wiring diagram actually exist. Is there a video or post that you know of that actualy shows someone accessing these terminals? What exactly am I looking for?
 

greg555

New member
does anyone have a wiring diagram for these heaters?

I have a spare one and I'm trying to use it for my van conversion to heat water but cant find anything

There used to be a video on YouTube and it he was showing how he made a harness from scratch outside the van but I cannot find it any longer
Thx
 

Lotus54

Member
I posted one some time back.
If you cannot find it, I’ll be happy to repost or email you.


does anyone have a wiring diagram for these heaters?

I have a spare one and I'm trying to use it for my van conversion to heat water but cant find anything

There used to be a video on YouTube and it he was showing how he made a harness from scratch outside the van but I cannot find it any longer
Thx
 

vanski

If it’s winter, I’m probably skiing..
Anyone live in the San Diego area who would be willing to do this mod on a 2018 144 high roof passenger? Please contact me.
I am interested in the same for my 06 in the SD area. I have never used the Espar unit in the driver side front wheel area, but would like the ability when needed. One time while waiting on a cold winter night at Palomar Airport to pick up a friend, I did use the residual heat dial option and could fell the warm air for a short while. Having the use of the diesel heater would be great, especially if I could run it off of my three aux. batteries and not the one and only starter battery. Happy New Year. Thanks to all here.
I’m a little late here... if you guys can get to nor cal, sfba east bay to be more specific, I can do this mod for you... FYI.. I only will do it wired from a house battery bank and it’s still a time consuming project even after doing it a half dozen times. Worth it though!
 

ianmorris1960

New member
Good afternoon all,

I have had to pension off my old sprinter, A 2001 T1N, it has served me very well, but has developed terminal rust issues among other bits:rolleyes:.

I went out and bought a 2015 MWB 310 as a replacement, this is just at the start of it's conversion to a day/weekend/event van. One luxury I really missed when away was hot water. The opportunity to build the Espacher D5 as a water and heater was too much to pass up...

Reading all the stuff on the web, despite being well able to read circuit diagrams etc was a definitive wiring diagram to bench test it. I have read they are connected in to the ECU of the van... really??

I used Roger's very helpful diagram as a starting point, along with a document relating specifically to the D5WZ as fitted in the T1N and came up with the attached...

Questions, in Roger's diagram he connects the 'terminal 15' wire through a relay... just what exactly does this wire do? does it connect to the dash switch? like an on/off switch....

I get the diagnostic wire, it is only needed when connected to something that can read the diagnostic codes generated, the dynamo wire I believe is the control so that it will only run when the engine is turning over, but terminal 15 is a bit of a mystery.

Could anyone with the knowledge please advise me before I wreck the thing!

Thanks in Advance

Ian
 

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ianmorris1960

New member
Thank you Keith,

So if terminal 15 is the 'ignition key live, then which wire goes to the dash switch to operate the heater?

I believe dynamo is like the wire in an old school split charge relay set up... when the alternator is running a terminal becomes live and switches the second battery in (before VSR and no smart alternators ended that!)

Thanks Ian
 

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