T1N OM647 Engine Water Pump Replacement
OM612 2002-2003 2.7L Water Pump Replacement
]NOTE: This is an edit of Aqua Punta's OM647 instructions for water pump replacement. It is largely fine for OM612, but some parts are not applicable to OM612.
So I have edited accordingly. HKP
5 cylinder water pump leak leaking remove replace change install
Cost
Approx. $200.00 w/ a metric Allen set.
Parts
Water pump w/ gasket. The OEM pump MB 6472000101 has a metal gasket. Other pumps have a composite gasket. Metal gasket = easier cleaning. Added: The metal gasket also provides a set spacing. I prefer the metal type.
Caution: There has been a warning about replacement water pumps having an oversized bore for the idler pulley self threading fastener. Double check that the bore is correct. Some info is here. Thanks goes to Lightguy.
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25041
GO5 Type Coolant. About 2 full mixed gallons without a complete system drain/flush. I used Zerex GO5 Formula Phosphate Free from NAPA. Advanced Auto didn't carry any GO5 product. They were insistent to use one size fits all. I don't recommend that.
Tools Necessary
Typical hand tools most anyone has plus:
10mm socket or wrench (turbo heat shield)
CR-VT-20 Torx
CR-VT-25 Torx
CR-VT-30 Torx
CR-VT-45 Torx (for outlet manifold bracket)
8mm Allen (for fan bolt)
CR-VE-10 Socket
CR-VE-12 Socket
CR-VE-14 Socket
Torque wrench
Hose removal tool
17mm 12 pt. (offset box wrench for belt tensioner)
1/4" 12 pt. box wrench (for outlet manifold pump bolts)
T20 Torx screwdriver (for lower grill screws)
Ultra Blue RTV Gasket Sealant (if re-using outlet manifold gasket because none was included)
Wooden block 6 3/4"L (for propping radiator forward)
View attachment 22919
Remove frame bar to tilt radiator forward
Disconnect the battery negative.
Remove the fasteners holding grill. Loosen the two lower screws with a T20 Torx screwdriver first. The plastic frame holes are slotted.
Remove the heat shield above the turbo.
Remove trim panels below the headlights.
Remove 4 ea. fasteners, remove the headlight pods. Disconnecting the wiring is not necessary. Swing out of the way.
Remove 4 ea. fasteners on frame. Pop 2 ea. clips. Remove the top frame and stand it on end.
View attachment 22920
The manual I have said to remove a hose to tilt the radiator and remove the fan and shroud together. I found no need to remove any hose or the fan shroud ever. I did pop the 4 shroud clips. One on the right rattled down to where I never did find it. MB over-engineered that anyway so I only need 3 clips. At least that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
HKP: My experience is to remove the air supply hose into the EQR, the 2 bolts attaching the the hose to the frame accessible through the driver's side headlight pod, and the 2 coolant hoses from the head, all to provide additional access to the pump and movement to the radiator; AND that the fan shroud needs to be worked on for the OM612 due to the need to access the fuel lines. My suggestion to to cut the shroud consistent with this thread on a 2-part shroud: https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=816297
Drain the coolant
With the headlight pod removed you can more easily access the tank drain. It is hidden pretty well in the lower support structure. I made a hose unit per HKPierce. It helped, but I think anytime I drain the coolant in the future I will remove the grill and headlight pod for access. Turn the valve open to drain. Find it by feel. Added: Don't bother. The drain drains so slowly it isn't worth the effort. Catch the coolant when the pump hose is removed. A bit messy, but less aggravating.
HKP: If your van has a rear heater, disconnect the lower 3/4" heater hose under the van that goes up into the cabin and turn the key on a couple of times to run the electric circulating pump. This will pump out most of the coolant.
View attachment 22921
Remove the fan
Pull the radiator out forward for access to the fan and pump. I wedged a 6 3/4" wood block to hold the radiator out and keep access. It worked very well, but it did slightly bend the aluminum top frame lip. I do mean slightly.
View attachment 22922
Remove the 8mm Allen bolt to remove the fan and viscous clutch. Righty tighty, lefty loosey works on this one. I was able to wedge a 3/16" x 10" square shaft screwdriver into the bolt heads for the pulley to hold the shaft. The real tool designed for that would be nice. I was able to carefully extract the fan assembly with the shroud in place. HKP:
I use a large channel locks on the 4" or so on the bell part of the belt housing.
Caution: Keep the fan/viscous clutch upright when you store it. Do not lay it flat.
Use a really small screwdriver to pop the plastic cover off both idler pulleys (HKP). Remove the idler bolt using the CR-VT-45 torx. The same size as the frame screws.
HKP: Remove the belt housing - 4 torx screws.
Disconnect the two hoses on the left (one to the radiator, the other to the heater core). Before removing the upper heater hose line, remove the sensor to the left to prevent inadvertent damage to it, as that hose is difficult to get off. Favor disconnecting the heater line side of the hose first and remove the pump side after removing the water pump.
Under the high pressure pump and above the water pump are two bolts (blue arrow). Two clips hold the plastic fuel lines in place. Unclip (the release is on the top of the clip - careful as they are brittle.) For the 3rd hidden bolt (in red circle), remove the high pressure sensor to permit access to a bolt located behind both the sensor and the plastic fuel line.
If the weather is cold and the plastic fuel lines are old, a hair dryer will be useful to warm them up so that the lines can be manipulated.
Remove the bolts from the water pump.
HKP: Coolant from the block will pour out when the pump is removed. To protect the alternator from being drown in coolant, cover it with a plastic bag.
I made a cardboard bolt holder as a guide. It helps keep the bolts organized and makes it easier when re-installing. There are actually 2 different head sizes [5 of 6mmx1.0 and 4 of 8mmx1.25] and, for the larger 8mm bolts, 2 different lengths. The longest 8mm bolt is the upper left [looking at the pump from the front]. Be very careful when removing the top bolts hidden from view. It is very easy (at least it was for me) to remove a wrong bolt that is not for the pump.
View attachment 22923
HKP: Remove the water pump by carefully pulling out from the bottom and then pulling down. There are two flanges on the pump that the fuel line clips are attached - and they have to be disengaged without damaging the fuel lines or the clips.
Installing the new pump Remember the longer 8mm bolt goes into the upper left 8mm hole.
Install the pulley on the new pump.
Torque the pump bolts. Being careful again to get the correct bolts on the top. 6mm = 10 ft/lb. 8mm=15 ft/lb.
Install the idler pulley with the slightly triangular thread forming bolt. Torque to 26 ft/lb.
2011/07/03 edit: Do not tap the hole for the triangular bolt. The self thread design is for better holding. ("The term for the 'thread forming' feature is trilobular." Roger - Sailquik post #26)
Snap cover back on.
HKP: Reinstall the belt housing
Install the serpentine belt before the fan is in the way.
Install the fan/viscous drive. I didn't like the way the 3/16" screwdriver wedged against the viscous drive for tightening, it seemed fine for loosening. I used a large rat tail file tang to wedge the pulley bolts. Wear gloves to hold the file because they are brittle. The tang bent a bit, but it worked fine. As I didn't have the torque spec I made the bolt reasonably very tight. The proper holding tool would be nice to have.
Close the radiator drain if not done yet.
Replace the top frame member. I always grease bolts for reassembly. I also greased the bearing areas as my 2004 had rust bubbles there. A more meticulous person may want to grind, prime and paint. (The grease completely halted the rust.)
Install the 2 ea. radiator support clips.
Install turbo heat shield.
Install headlight pods.
Install lower trim panels.
Install the grill last.
Refill coolant per manual. I needed 2 gallons 50% mix. They say it takes about 3 heat/cool cycles for the level to stabilize.
Reconnect battery negative if removed.
I think the job could be done in 4 - 5 hours. It took me two days. AP/vic
Fuel Clips
Thanks goes to Lindenengineering Dennis.
OM612 2002-2003 2.7L Water Pump Replacement
]NOTE: This is an edit of Aqua Punta's OM647 instructions for water pump replacement. It is largely fine for OM612, but some parts are not applicable to OM612.
So I have edited accordingly. HKP
5 cylinder water pump leak leaking remove replace change install
Cost
Approx. $200.00 w/ a metric Allen set.
Parts
Water pump w/ gasket. The OEM pump MB 6472000101 has a metal gasket. Other pumps have a composite gasket. Metal gasket = easier cleaning. Added: The metal gasket also provides a set spacing. I prefer the metal type.
Caution: There has been a warning about replacement water pumps having an oversized bore for the idler pulley self threading fastener. Double check that the bore is correct. Some info is here. Thanks goes to Lightguy.
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25041
GO5 Type Coolant. About 2 full mixed gallons without a complete system drain/flush. I used Zerex GO5 Formula Phosphate Free from NAPA. Advanced Auto didn't carry any GO5 product. They were insistent to use one size fits all. I don't recommend that.
Tools Necessary
Typical hand tools most anyone has plus:
10mm socket or wrench (turbo heat shield)
CR-VT-20 Torx
CR-VT-25 Torx
CR-VT-30 Torx
CR-VT-45 Torx (for outlet manifold bracket)
8mm Allen (for fan bolt)
CR-VE-10 Socket
CR-VE-12 Socket
CR-VE-14 Socket
Torque wrench
Hose removal tool
17mm 12 pt. (offset box wrench for belt tensioner)
1/4" 12 pt. box wrench (for outlet manifold pump bolts)
T20 Torx screwdriver (for lower grill screws)
Ultra Blue RTV Gasket Sealant (if re-using outlet manifold gasket because none was included)
Wooden block 6 3/4"L (for propping radiator forward)
View attachment 22919
Remove frame bar to tilt radiator forward
Disconnect the battery negative.
Remove the fasteners holding grill. Loosen the two lower screws with a T20 Torx screwdriver first. The plastic frame holes are slotted.
Remove the heat shield above the turbo.
Remove trim panels below the headlights.
Remove 4 ea. fasteners, remove the headlight pods. Disconnecting the wiring is not necessary. Swing out of the way.
Remove 4 ea. fasteners on frame. Pop 2 ea. clips. Remove the top frame and stand it on end.
View attachment 22920
The manual I have said to remove a hose to tilt the radiator and remove the fan and shroud together. I found no need to remove any hose or the fan shroud ever. I did pop the 4 shroud clips. One on the right rattled down to where I never did find it. MB over-engineered that anyway so I only need 3 clips. At least that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
HKP: My experience is to remove the air supply hose into the EQR, the 2 bolts attaching the the hose to the frame accessible through the driver's side headlight pod, and the 2 coolant hoses from the head, all to provide additional access to the pump and movement to the radiator; AND that the fan shroud needs to be worked on for the OM612 due to the need to access the fuel lines. My suggestion to to cut the shroud consistent with this thread on a 2-part shroud: https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=816297
Drain the coolant
With the headlight pod removed you can more easily access the tank drain. It is hidden pretty well in the lower support structure. I made a hose unit per HKPierce. It helped, but I think anytime I drain the coolant in the future I will remove the grill and headlight pod for access. Turn the valve open to drain. Find it by feel. Added: Don't bother. The drain drains so slowly it isn't worth the effort. Catch the coolant when the pump hose is removed. A bit messy, but less aggravating.
HKP: If your van has a rear heater, disconnect the lower 3/4" heater hose under the van that goes up into the cabin and turn the key on a couple of times to run the electric circulating pump. This will pump out most of the coolant.
View attachment 22921
Remove the fan
Pull the radiator out forward for access to the fan and pump. I wedged a 6 3/4" wood block to hold the radiator out and keep access. It worked very well, but it did slightly bend the aluminum top frame lip. I do mean slightly.
View attachment 22922
Remove the 8mm Allen bolt to remove the fan and viscous clutch. Righty tighty, lefty loosey works on this one. I was able to wedge a 3/16" x 10" square shaft screwdriver into the bolt heads for the pulley to hold the shaft. The real tool designed for that would be nice. I was able to carefully extract the fan assembly with the shroud in place. HKP:
I use a large channel locks on the 4" or so on the bell part of the belt housing.
Caution: Keep the fan/viscous clutch upright when you store it. Do not lay it flat.
Use a really small screwdriver to pop the plastic cover off both idler pulleys (HKP). Remove the idler bolt using the CR-VT-45 torx. The same size as the frame screws.
HKP: Remove the belt housing - 4 torx screws.
Disconnect the two hoses on the left (one to the radiator, the other to the heater core). Before removing the upper heater hose line, remove the sensor to the left to prevent inadvertent damage to it, as that hose is difficult to get off. Favor disconnecting the heater line side of the hose first and remove the pump side after removing the water pump.
Under the high pressure pump and above the water pump are two bolts (blue arrow). Two clips hold the plastic fuel lines in place. Unclip (the release is on the top of the clip - careful as they are brittle.) For the 3rd hidden bolt (in red circle), remove the high pressure sensor to permit access to a bolt located behind both the sensor and the plastic fuel line.
If the weather is cold and the plastic fuel lines are old, a hair dryer will be useful to warm them up so that the lines can be manipulated.
Remove the bolts from the water pump.
HKP: Coolant from the block will pour out when the pump is removed. To protect the alternator from being drown in coolant, cover it with a plastic bag.
I made a cardboard bolt holder as a guide. It helps keep the bolts organized and makes it easier when re-installing. There are actually 2 different head sizes [5 of 6mmx1.0 and 4 of 8mmx1.25] and, for the larger 8mm bolts, 2 different lengths. The longest 8mm bolt is the upper left [looking at the pump from the front]. Be very careful when removing the top bolts hidden from view. It is very easy (at least it was for me) to remove a wrong bolt that is not for the pump.
View attachment 22923
HKP: Remove the water pump by carefully pulling out from the bottom and then pulling down. There are two flanges on the pump that the fuel line clips are attached - and they have to be disengaged without damaging the fuel lines or the clips.
Installing the new pump Remember the longer 8mm bolt goes into the upper left 8mm hole.
Install the pulley on the new pump.
Torque the pump bolts. Being careful again to get the correct bolts on the top. 6mm = 10 ft/lb. 8mm=15 ft/lb.
Install the idler pulley with the slightly triangular thread forming bolt. Torque to 26 ft/lb.
2011/07/03 edit: Do not tap the hole for the triangular bolt. The self thread design is for better holding. ("The term for the 'thread forming' feature is trilobular." Roger - Sailquik post #26)
Snap cover back on.
HKP: Reinstall the belt housing
Install the serpentine belt before the fan is in the way.
Install the fan/viscous drive. I didn't like the way the 3/16" screwdriver wedged against the viscous drive for tightening, it seemed fine for loosening. I used a large rat tail file tang to wedge the pulley bolts. Wear gloves to hold the file because they are brittle. The tang bent a bit, but it worked fine. As I didn't have the torque spec I made the bolt reasonably very tight. The proper holding tool would be nice to have.
Close the radiator drain if not done yet.
Replace the top frame member. I always grease bolts for reassembly. I also greased the bearing areas as my 2004 had rust bubbles there. A more meticulous person may want to grind, prime and paint. (The grease completely halted the rust.)
Install the 2 ea. radiator support clips.
Install turbo heat shield.
Install headlight pods.
Install lower trim panels.
Install the grill last.
Refill coolant per manual. I needed 2 gallons 50% mix. They say it takes about 3 heat/cool cycles for the level to stabilize.
Reconnect battery negative if removed.
I think the job could be done in 4 - 5 hours. It took me two days. AP/vic
Added:You were wise to PM me with this question and location or I would have missed it.
There are 3 different fastener torque specs to use on the water pump. The 6mm pump housing hardware is torqued to 10 ft lbs. The 8mm pump housing hardware is 15 ft lbs. And the special 10.9 graded, thread forming bolt [TRILOBULAR™ ?] for the idler pulley mounting is 26 ft. lbs. Doktor A
Fuel Clips
Thanks goes to Lindenengineering Dennis.
Well if you do use aftermarket , just make sure it has a steel gasket not paper or cardboard one
AND
If yours is a 2002 /2003 do make sure the fuel pipe retentions clips are installed or replaced. Read important.
Dennis
On a 2002 /2003 the HPOP fuel pipes run very close to water pump pulley.
New retention clips are essential being attached to the water pump.
In your case no worries.
Dennis
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