How much do you use the generator?

I only use the genset to microwave, and will probably have it removed if/when it becomes too costly to maintain. In the meantime except when the insects built a nest in the air intake hose and a routine oil change, it has been troublefree. I'm glad it runs on propane which means a cleaner engine, it always starts in the Spring even after a 9 month storage period last year. I'm sure with gas or diesel, the fuel mechanism would need to be cleaned routinely after sitting for a period.... Juju

aljimenez said:

About the only thing that will probably not run without a generator is an air conditioner. Aside from this, I run everything else. Does anyone run their roof-top air-conditioner with batteries taking the space of the generator? If anyone has done this, I'd like to hear because I would like to do that... Al

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In the westy the generator is not required to run the A/C as it is a 12v unit. The A/C can be run off of the generator, shore power, or engine. It has been said that the generator if powering the A/C will deplete the propane tank overnite. The generator could be replaced with a bank of batteries although the weight would exceed that of the generator.

A good remote start system will allow thermostatic temperature control of the interior using the engine to power both A/C units.

Van

i have a onan rv 2500 where can i get part numbers for spark plug ( i see access hole but not spark plug inside ) if its up in there does the wire just pull off?
also fuel filter

thanks, kim

Has anyone measured how mush propane is used by the generator? I guess we could figure it out from the GENSET manual. I would guess it lasts a lot longer that everyone assumes.

We hardly use the AC and when we do, we just cool down before bed. We do use two cooling fans in the cabin and the fantastic fan plus screened skylight and windows. Most RV's don't have so many options. I can't understand why some RVs run their ACs on nice days other than because they need to since they are living in a box. Thankful we have all those windows. (Speaking of windows, I installed a switch under the seat that allows power windows to work with ignition key off/out).

One fact I bet no one knows is that when you run the AC on engine/alternator, it still draws about half its needed amperage from the coach batteries since they are connected to the engine alternator when the engine is running by the isolation relay under the drivers seat. Simultaneously, the small Westy battery charger is adding about 10 amps to the mix.

Another unknown fact (Mercedes fault) is that the coach batteries supply about a 20 amp surge to the engine right after starting. That is because the M-B signal that controls the isolation relay becomes available after start time but the alternator is not fully spun up yet. (I have written about this before but never posted the details yet - too busy traveling). I ended up building a custom circuit to wait for the alternator volts-up with a switch included for manual control of the relay.


AL

More details on how to power front door windows with ignition off would be great. That'd be a very handy modification.

CaptnALinTiverton said:

One fact I bet no one knows is that when you run the AC on engine/alternator, it still draws about half its needed amperage from the coach batteries since they are connected to the engine alternator when the engine is running by the isolation relay under the drivers seat. Simultaneously, the small Westy battery charger is adding about 10 amps to the mix.

Another unknown fact (Mercedes fault) is that the coach batteries supply about a 20 amp surge to the engine right after starting. That is because the M-B signal that controls the isolation relay becomes available after start time but the alternator is not fully spun up yet. (I have written about this before but never posted the details yet - too busy traveling). I ended up building a custom circuit to wait for the alternator volts-up with a switch included for manual control of the relay.
AL

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These are good reasons to wire in a dc-dc charger from the Kiss relay in back. With that installed, there is no longer a direct connection from the alternator to the house batteries and the A/C does not draw from the house bank nor is there a startup issue as the DC-DC charger will take a minute or two before drawing power.

Plus you get proper 3stage charging instead of a low voltage bulk phase from the alternator. Will treat the batteries better, and fully charge them.

Not quite clear how the West 10a charger is working since it needs AC power....?

Would also be interested in wiring front windows for use without ignition.....

Scratch that last sentence about the Westy charger supplying 10 amps at the same time; I was thinking of AC on at the same time. Speaking of "on at the same time," I've never seen a warning in the manuals about having more than one system on at the same time (propane GENSET, with engine running and power plugged in). It may be that the GENSET relay is prevented from closing with external AC coming in but I don't want to test out "any more than one on at a time" on my van! Perhaps someone can comment about having two or more on at the same time by accident.

I'll try to get the window switch mod posted some day soon.


AL

I have run my ac off the generator while driving to temporarily cool down the cabin, but only after converting to a 120 V Coleman and my honda eu2200i connected to the auto line/gen switch (converters and 150A fuse removed).

I don't know about running things at the same time -- all that stuff is long gone on our van -- but there is a switching box behind the breakers that controls the 120V feeds (shore and genset). I assume this thing defaults to shore power but have no idea.

If it's too hot to sleep at a truck stop or whatever, I find the dash air is sufficient, and the semi-automatic dial keeps a comfortable, constant temperature through the night.

If anyone wants to make an offer on our Onan, (only 17 hours!) please get in touch. It will go on eBay in the spring.

Ted