Sliding Door Lower Mechanism Replacement

R

Robert Foster

Member
Yes, you can definitely replace the center roller arm without touching the upper or lower roller arm. it's a simple process. I did it myself successfully, but unfortunately had ordered a roller arm that was a cheap Chinese knock off and not a genuine MB part, so it didn't last.

I don't know that it's conclusive, but my experience now with having ordered two center roller arms, one upper roller arm and one lower roller arm is that the genuine MB parts seem to be a silver colored metal while the Chinese knock offs seem to be gold colored metal. It might not matter as much if it;s genuine MB of Chinese knock off on the upper and lower arms as they experience different loading than the all important center roller arm.

Wasaabi said:
Thank you for a great write up. My middle roller needs replacement. Can anyone here confirm if I can replace it while leaving the others intact such that I would only have to adjust this one new roller? I’m trying to figure out my odds of getting away with a relatively simple DIY repair using a new genuine part. Thanks.
Click to expand...
 
M

MrTomacco

Mr. Tommaco
After my door was adjusted perfectly by the pros I found the door lock wires were crushed behind the middle roller. I very carefully marked the washer and the tab, loosened it up, got the wires out and set it back to the marks. It worked! It would be worth a try. That's what I did before giving up and sending it to the pros for a 2 hour? adjustment session. Best replace the top roller at the same time.
 
F

Fredb

Member
OldWest... am getting ready to tackle the lower slide mechanism repair... and am thinking to replace all of the rollers once I dive into it. I am curious Does your comment regarding the 'two stage' Center Door Slide Mechanism available from Europarts-sd.com site suggests that this is the 'high clearance' door roller we need for our Westies?

Otherwise... Kudo's to all and in particular Robert for the detailed explanation and photo's.


-Fred

OldWest said:
Also, according to the Europarts-sd.com site, our Westy version of the sliding door allows it to be locked in a partially open position. I don't know how this works??? Anyone know?

https://europarts-sd.com/mfg-subcat-item.asp?cID=97&scID=144

Center Door Slide Mechanism OUTER SLIDE 2002-2006 (GENUINE MERCEDES)
Rating: 0
Middle of right side sliding door. Located on outer portion of door.
This unit is ONLY used with those vehicles having the two stage sliding door. This option allows the sliding door to be opened
and locked at the halfway position and the full open position.
Dodge refers to this as the body slide.
Mercedes Code: T09 (Sliding Door Exterior Track)

This center door slide is a much heavier duty unit than the one shown below. If you have this version, there will be a small black plastic cover (shown below) on the outside of the sliding door, at the rear most area of the door.
Compare to INNER SLIDE shown below. The two different center slides are NOT interchangeable.

IF YOUR EXISTING PART NUMBER'S LAST TWO DIGITS ARE 04 47, ORDER THIS UNIT. IF THEY ARE 13 47, CHOOSE THE ONE SHOWN BELOW.
Click to expand...
 
O

OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
I don't know for certain what Europarts-SD is selling. Best bet is to get the right Mercedes/Dodge part number, and then call Steve at Europarts-SD to see how that part number compares with what they have.

It'd be nice if someone did figure out whether we have a halfway door option as described by Europarts-SD.

There are a bunch of posts on a regular (no black plastic cover) doors. Part numbers may be different. (ADDED NOTE: HKPierce posts--his Sprinter has the same type door as our Westies)

Passenger sliding door

A combination of my stupidity and unfortunate timing of my "charges" resulted in a tremendous slamming of my passenger sliding door two weekends ago. http://www.t255.com/photos%20071117_Gettysburg/GT41.html, http://picasaweb.google.com/hkp255/GettsburgCleanup The result was the sliding door...
sprinter-source.com sprinter-source.com

Desperately need sliding door adjustment help!

So my sliding door will not latch, not close close all the way. I’ve pulled up that sliding door guide, which is practically so lengthy and useless. I’ve done what it says. At first the latch was not lining up with the striker. I adjusted that to line up and the latch still wasn’t reaching the...
sprinter-source.com sprinter-source.com

Sliding Door Roller Mod

I've replaced the center door slide mechanism (AKA body slide) twice on my van when one of the smaller plastic rollers gets crushed/deformed and won't roll properly. Those rollers are just pieces of plastic spinning on steel shafts, so it's just a matter of time until they wear out in one way...
sprinter-source.com sprinter-source.com



Please keep us posted.

(By the way, there is an aftermarket wedge bump you can glue inside the sliding door track--the center roller rolls over it and sits-- keeps the sliding door open a bit, or you can roll over the entire wedge to open the door fully.)
 
Last edited:
F

Fredb

Member
Oldwest,

Thanks... as always. Based on the description on the Europarts site, I'm pretty convinced the one they describe for the 'two stage' center door (with the plastic cover on the outside) is the one for our Westies. Will keep you posted as I proceed.


-Fred
 
M

MrTomacco

Mr. Tommaco
After many hours messing with the door after replacing rolling components, dropped it off at Freightliner body shop and it operates smoothly now. There are tricky off set cone alignment parts to deal with.
 
O

OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
If you were happy (or not) with the Freightliner body shop, would you mind sharing name/address and approximate cost?

On the east coast, post #18.
 
M

MrTomacco

Mr. Tommaco
OldWest said:
If you were happy (or not) with the Freightliner body shop, would you mind sharing name/address and approximate cost?

On the east coast, post #18.
Click to expand...
It was McCoy Freightliner in Portland. The semi repair shop did it. I think it was $250? Door operated smoothly.
 
W

WSchulz

New member
Here is a picture of how I changed the lower roller. Was able to get enough lift up on the track by removing just the three bolts on the step.20210605_130926 (1).jpg
 
Last edited:
F

Fredb

Member
So, just did the replacement on the lower roller. Piece of cake except for getting the custom metal receptacle under the flooring out. I have no idea why the builders chose to glue that plate to the step... an absolute pain in the ass to break it free... ughhhhh!!!! Anyways, all's well that ends well, but anyone contemplating the removal, know that getting the metal piece free from the flooring is the hardest part of the whole job.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Top Bottom