T1N Webasto Airtop 2000 Install

Quick first question, my plan is to use the factory Espar (which has never worked) fuel pickup and I grabbed a couple of the Dorman 800-176 fuel tees, which has a 5/16" connection and outlets. I apparently threw away my old fuel pump unit that I was going to use to test out whether that is the correct connector - wanted to make sure before I dropped the tank for the install.

Can anyone confirm or deny that that is the right tee size to use?

Thank you
Nick

Aaaaanyone? One more thing, while I don't want to mount this thing under the pass seat because that's where my subwoofer is, I may mount it there, in which case I will want to route the exhaust to the other (driver) side of the van so fumes don't come in the doors. I'd assume I have to increase the exhaust outlet diameter after 2'-3' to avoid excess backpressure, but I know it also has to have a downward slope, and there are drivelines and fuel tanks etc to deal with. Has anyone had any success with that kind of situation?

You can run the exhaust along the transmission crossmember without too much issue. I would go larger diameter shortly after the unit itself.

I find the exhaust smell to be quite minor except briefly during startup and shutdown. Personally I would just route it out below the door.

The exhaust heat shield is just below the passenger seat so you may have to trim or move it slightly depending on which direction you have the exhaust tubing.

Thanks MWD, I think I'll fire it up and see if the smell bothers me, and route more if necessary.

Anyone have any advice on the usability of the Dorman fuel connectors for a T1N before I drop this tank?

Z: if you’re not going to use the factory espar hater booster I’d just swap the fuel pumps and use as much of the factory installed fuel line as possible. It’ll save you a ton of time in dropping the tank not to mention if you mess the job up the rig will be out commission for a while. Also the cost of a replacement tank is pricey.. if you plan on getting the oem heater booster rolling (great if you can) you can ‘T’ off the existing line before the existing fuel pump.

I’m based in the sfba and have replacement parts for the oem heater if you ever want to get that rolling..

V: Thanks so much, I somehow missed your post until just now. I'm still waiting for the motherland to deliver my heater, and patiently keeping my fuel tank kinda low but at this point I may go with what you're saying. I was just about to post about a fuel standpipe on Amazon that is worlds cheaper than the Espar/Webasto ones (at like $50-$120 a pop, it's a damn bent piece of tube with a bulkhead fitting!). So FWIW, there is this thing which is priced way more appropriately, and *looks* to be sufficient. Anyone have experience with these?

CITALL Auto Car Metal Fuel Tank Stand Pipe Fit For Webasto Eberspacher Heaters Replacement

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HSWJHSN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MARICb9QDCNQV

P.S. Good to know you have those replacement parts, I don't think we're too far from each other...

I would second what Vanski recommended. Not having to drop the tank makes the install way easier, I was all prepped to drop the tank and cut in some new holes before I realized I could just utilize that existing fuel line. Since the factory heater booster still worked in mine I did the 'T' prior to the factory pump and put in my second pump. In your case it makes sense to just put your new pump in place of the factory pump you tossed, routing the fuel to your new heater.

Also agree with your plan for routing the exhaust to the driver's side. Having it on the passenger side means you can't really hang out outside the van (on the "patio") while the interior is warming up. I didn't do that and will be moving mine.

I didn't use the dorman connectors in mine as I was limited on time to what I could find locally. But if you use the existing fuel lines and such, trying out the those connectors at the factory pump location should be pretty easy and no need to drop the tank. Here is mine, which used a 3/16" brass 'T' and 3/16" fuel line to the new pump.

I have a spare fuel pipe thing for the tank from my Webasto kit that I didn't use. I posted in the classifieds about it. That Doorman connector is correct.
The Airtop install was one of the more tedious things I did, probably took 6 evenings to get it all dialed in. I also managed to install the Webasto and a spare battery under the passenger seat so it was abit tight in there and had to think it all out.
If you're not fully set on the subwoofer I would pull it and install the heater under the passenger seat since it makes install pretty clean and keeps the exhaust length & routing to a minimum. Not sure what kit you ordered but make sure you get an intake silencer and muffler. I also opted for a bunch of stainless fittings for the intake/exhaust which I bought off ebay as well. I did the install over a year ago and it's been hassle free since...

I'm moving the subwoofer so it's going under the seat for sure, best option.

Have a quick question: my heater is still not here (been over 3 weeks since it departed Russia -Heaters4you), and I'm in the middle of redoing my whole electrical everything. I'm assuming I run the electrical feed to where the heater unit will be under the seat, and not to the switch (right?). My question is what gauge wire should I run?

The power runs to the heater. It depends on the length of the run, but generally 10 gauge is a safe bet.

I just noticed your standpipe comment.. I really don’t know why anyone would use a sp when you already have an aux fuel tap. There’s a lot of risk in dropping the tank. And the only semi-correct place to install it is on the lift pump assembly as there’s a record of people’s tanks ripping when a hole is simply drilled into the plastic of the tank.. so then you need to make sure you install the so so it doesn’t interfere with any of th functionality of the LP and then make sure to properly seal the LP upon reassembly. Oh, and make sure you seat the electrical plug for the LP back together properly or you’ll have to drop the tank again...

Re wiring.. yes, every one of the Webasto, Planar, and Eberspachar heaters I’ve worked with has 10awg wire as the primary power lead for the heater. Same for the earth/ground wire. Actually planar uses a slightly heavier earth wire..

Don’t button everything up until you’ve figured out how you’re going to wire the harness from the heater to the heater’s control unit/switch..

those Russians must be off enjoying some sun

Sun? I think I remember sun. That's like a day moon right?

Yeah based on everyone's comments I will be tapping into the exg. pickup, mounting it under the seat, and expecting a long install The reason I was going to install a standpipe was from seeing a few posts in all of my research that suggested you had to install one to do it correctly, and that teeing the exg. line was frowned upon. I'll be glad to not drop the tank again, already had to do that to replace the fuel pump.

I have been planning to run some smurf tube between the heater location and my switch location, figuring I could cut and reconnect the wires if the little terminal block doesn't fit through the tube - which it almost certainly wouldn't. Either way I'll have access, and I'm designing my whole interior to be able to be easily taken out for maintenance if necessary. That's been one of the main principles of my interior design, nothing goes up that couldn't easily come down (with tools that is).

10g it is, thank you both!

sounds like you won't have any issue taking things down if needed, but depending on where you mount the furnace CU, another option is to run the harness through the little depression on the passenger side (of course protect the wire bundle) of the seat pedestal, under the foot-step plastic on the pass side there, then up and under the b-pillar plastic (passenger side). Just an option... of course there's seven ways from sunday to route that harness.. this is how i had to do it a couple times where folks had everything buttoned up and it would have been a massive pain, and time suck ($$$), to take down some of wall-build.