Some info is here.Anyone know where to get the tiny O-rings that go into the injector return line port?
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Hi Michael, I am in you vicinity, just noticed one drop of black death, reading all the posts, saw yours, would love to know more about the leak test! JPQuite the saga. I have been vacillating on whether to do this myself. Seeing Doktor Andy's comments both encourages and discouraged me. I fear a "pro" who is unfamiliar with all the intricacies pointed out in this wtite up and who has my credit card. I hope to go slow to go fast...
I am making my list on Europarts SD. My concern is whether or not to order injectors before I start. My ooze on #1 appears to have only just begun and I already did the drive and pop with success. My next step is the leak test this morning after warming the engine up in the shop. Vic, your advice to do one at a time may be the best part to make it more accessible.
I really appreciate all the input provided here, especially on the diy tooling.
I Find it a little sad that the Bay Area does not seem to have an equivalent resource as Doktor Andy.
Anyhow, thanks for all the info!
Michael in Petaluma
The fork does fit to the claw bearing section.I am not having any luck pulling injectors, when people use a slide hammer, does it have a special attachment that hooks around where the hold down foot sits? Thanks!
You mean this: http://www.ee4.shoproller.com/karla-ok/en/home/I just found a video on YT where the guy showed a pneumatic slide hammer they use at dealerships to remove injectors, it is short in overall length so it fits in engine bay, like #4 and #5 cylinders on our vans. Anyone know where to purchase, no luck on ebay so far. Link below.
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I wonder if the torque procedure of the hold down bolt is compromised by a hot engine...??? It seems to me with everything hot/expanded the torque applied would alter (reduce...???) the clamping force when the engine cools.
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That pneumatic puller looks like it requires disassembly of the injector to attach, that sucks! I am going to work on designing and making a puller that won't require disassembly.You mean this: http://www.ee4.shoproller.com/karla-ok/en/home/
Keep Rolling...Chris
https://youtu.be/6ycCXipqxzQ
https://youtu.be/h8VSJfJ1HIM
https://youtu.be/MlHD0RyGNQQ
... I would preemptively change out the washers at 120-150K intervals to possibly bypass the headaches of stuck injectors.
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I pulled the black plastic cover at my last oil change, there was a speck of black soot on #2 and 3, nothing visible on #1, yet number one required quite a bit of slide hammer force to remove, black soot had migrated 2/3-3/4 of the way up the injector. I agree with your assessment that they probably installed the injectors dry at the factory. From the bubble test with oil poured into the valleys, it appears all of my injectors are/were leaking, but since I am the third owner, I don't know if they had been removed previously, and looking closely at all the injectors there seems to be evidence that maybe some are remanufactured because of scratches and gouges, minor, on and around the upper 'nut', #5 appears 'new', from the coloration of the plastic electrical connection housing and the shiny metal parts...?Are the compressive forces exerted on a copper seal really enough to work harden the part? Isn't that force exerted by the hold down clamping force?
Many injector seals last way past your trigger time. Ciprian's 2005 has over 770,000 miles. to my knowledge he has only needed to replace one injector seal over those miles and 14 years.
Not that you asked.
Stuck injectors are a result of long(er) term exhaust leak buildup. If you pull the black plastic injector cover to inspect every other oil change, the condensed exhaust/fuel leaked material won't have time to build up as much.
When it comes to injectors I prefer a "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" approach, but that is a personal choice not supported by many professionals. To be clear, I do try to monitor even minor changes in engine operation as part of that program.
As an aside.
I find it interesting that MB recommends using ceramic grease (other anti-seize compounds can work), but when the T1N factory injectors are removed there doesn't appear to be any signs of any anti-seize residue.
vic
When I discovered my leaking injector seal I was a bit unhappy and fully in agreement with blaming the failure on a poor design of the injector hold down design.... The minutia of hold down tightening techniques in what in my opinion, is a marginal design for applying hold down force, may be a factor if determining the life of the seal.
Having read every page of this thread, and yesterday finally removing and replacing my first injector, I have some thoughts. IMO, the sealing washer work hardens and that is why it no longer seals well. Doktor A says the washers are good for 180K, if I were to know what I know now, and I had a new van, I would preemptively change out the washers at 120-150K intervals to possibly bypass the headaches of stuck injectors. Being lucky enough to only have had to remove #1 injector so far, even though pretty much all the others have mild, but detectable leaks, I am going to do everything I can to design and make a puller that can pull #1-5, without taking the injector apart. I know I have the skills and equipment to do it, I love the van, but can't see having to fight and die to remove my #2-5! Thanks to all for your help and knowledge to get me this far!!