Tinting acrylic flip-out window

Wasaabi

Sprinter Westfalia #133
The Seitz passenger window is acrylic, which means normal tinting films don't work on it. Knowing this, I went to a specialist who installed a "blister-free" clean film on the window. After that dries for around a week, you put regular tinting on top. I had that done, but it didn't work out. Within a month everything blistered horribly. Fortunately I was able to peel it off without any permanent damage to the window.

Back to the drawing board, I found forums talking about using "peel and cling" window film for acrylic windows. I still had a template made from window film from my tinting guy (because we ended up not using that sheet). So I went and bought Gila "Black Privacy Window Film" peel and cling type from Home Depot, SKU # 481130, $17. I also bought the Gila kit for installation, although you can substitute your own stuff too.

I cut the Gila film a couple inches larger than the window. Then I grabbed a flat glass screen door insert I had and cleaned it. I sprayed the "solution" (which is some sort of soap) onto it and attached the Gila film backwards (liner facing up). You are not supposed to get the liner wet but I did spray it lightly so that I could put the film template I had over it and have it stay on.

Then I used the knife from the kit to trace the film cutout so I had the exact right size.

For installation, I first removed the two rubber plugs at the center of the window at each side. Note that these windows are intended to "breathe" unlike sealed thermopane. I heavily sprayed the Westy window, peeled off the liner (a bit at a time, otherwise it gets hard to deal with), and attached the cling film. I moved it into position, and used the plastic tool to flatten out the bubbles. Then I reinstalled the two plugs.

It is almost perfect and wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. It seems to be sticking very well to the Westy window, and can be peeled off at any point since there is no adhesive. It is dark enough that you cannot really see in at all, day or night. With the shade pulled down, you cannot see that the shade is pulled down from the outside.

The one downside is that this film is not as optically clear as regular tint. So there is some distortion when you look through it from inside. I can live with that.

There is also a peel and cling Gila film available for automotive applications. You can get 5% (really dark) or 20% (like most SUVs). I don't know how well it would work because I used their "home" line, but if I have to replace this at some point I will try that one.

One caution: do not use a blade to cut the film to size on the acrylic window--it will scratch. Instead, if you don't have a template like I did, I think the thing to do is cut it an inch longer on all sides, and temporarily attach it to the outside of the window, with the liner facing out. Then use a sharpie to mark the lever cutouts and borders on the liner, and cut these out on a suitable surface before installing the film.
 

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OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
Thanks for info. Looks good.

Here's some info from GilaFilms in response to an email inquiry. Did not mention that window is double-paned which may affect answers (usually, tint should not be applied to inside of dual-paned windows as interior heat between panes may cause seals or glass to break--have tint on the interior of the passenger side glass windows with no problems but those double-glass windows are not the same type of sealed windows).

Hello,
Thank you for contacting Gila Window Films. We appreciate you reaching out to us.

I’ve outlined answers to your questions below…

1. Is Ultra Shield Max 5% Peel and Cling (no adhesive) okay to use on:

A. Plexiglass/acrylic window (campervan) – Yes, the peel & cling film is the only type of film recommended to be used on plexiglass or acrylic windows.

B. On the exterior – we would recommend the film to be applied to the interior of the window. This way it is not effected by the elements and will still be under warranty.

2. Does one use the same Gila installation kit (spray applicator solution)? – yes, the same application solution should be used on the peel & cling film as well as the adhesive films.

3. Is either side of the film okay to use against the plexiglass/acrylic pane as apparently no liner? – Yes, you can use either side of the peel & cling film to apply to the plexiglass. The film orientation does not matter. We just put a liner on it so it is easier to be rolled/unrolled.


If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to contact us again!

Thank you,
The Gila Window Film Team
www.gilafilms.com
 

OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
Awhile ago, I ordered the Gila Ultra Shield Max with lifetime warranty from Amazon as this static cling film has the highest heat rejection. But Amazon sent me a cheaper two-year warranty version--did not return as the box model number is same for the Ultra and the cheaper regular film so little chance of getting right one. As price was cheap, kept to install manana. Also bought the Gila installation kit.

Great that someone has already done. Gives me incentive to get around to doing.
 

discus

GA Westy
Dont use a dark film on acrylic windows. The excessive heat buildup may cause micro cracks on the plastic. it will eventually look like shattered windshield. It may not be a problem if you live in the northwest but down south, it can be a problem.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

Wasaabi

Sprinter Westfalia #133
The acrylic window is dual pane but not sealed. This was explained to me by the tinting guy I previously used. The two rubber plugs are there to allow the window to "breathe". It is also normal for some moisture to accumulate inside in certain conditions and then dry out. From that perspective, I am not worried about tint.

Discus makes a good point I did not consider. I think the non-heat-rejecting films (like the Gila version I used) are better for protecting the window itself, because rather than absorb the heat or reflect it back toward the window, the cheaper films let the heat in and through, thus keeping the window itself cooler (and the Westy interior warmer). This risk, though, might motivate me to seek out the 20% automotive film. I wonder if there are any signs of this "cracking" that can be seen as it is beginning. Then one can just peel it off and replace with something less dark.

BTW several days later it is still holding up great.
 

OldWest

2004 T1N Westfalia
Thanks for thoughts re dark tint and acrylic panes. You'd think the manufacturers or at least some school kid would have run some experiments. Thoughts:

1. Outside of limo tint windows are much hotter than lightly tinted front windows (tint on inside of glass). So the darker the tint (Solargard?), hotter the glass. (Translate to acrylic; clear acrylic seems cooler than clear glass?)

2. Heat rejection film--heat goes to exterior as well as heating up glass? Different types of heat rejection film including new ones which can be used on interior of dual paned windows.

3. Acrylic windows may not like heat from either or both the dark color and/or heat rejection properties. In installed on interior pane of dual pane, may have heat build-up in between the panes (with some escaping through little holes).

For ease of installation, I think I'll install peel and cling on exterior. Then check out the temp of the dark tint (exposed to outside so hopefully heat dissipates versus tint on interior). If too hot, easy to peel off.

In any event, the acrylic windows do craze/crack by themselves from age, sun exposure, etc. Other forums have various complaints re acrylic paned windows.

I'm starting to like the Mercedes sliding glass window instead of our awning window.
 

Wasaabi

Sprinter Westfalia #133
I wonder if anyone has tried buying a replacement window. Seitz (Dometic) makes all the sizes. And they make smoked versions. UK websites like leisureshopdirect.com have all these parts. When I checked the marking on my acrylic window it did not list the size the way they illustrate, so I wonder what would fit. Would be good to know.

Regarding heat: the thing that seems to generate the most heat with the other tinted windows is keeping the shade closed during the day with sun shining on it. So I make it a point not to do that. And as we know our sunroof instructions specifically warn us not to keep the shade closed and it isn't even tinted.
 

Kiltym

Active member
Wasaabi, just curious how the Gile is holding up on the inside of your awning window....

Any issues?

Thoughts on installing on exterior instead on interior of window(s)....?

Thanks for your input!
 

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