Oil Change (OM647, 2.7l, 5cyl)

srssrs

New member
Thanks TurboJohn. Makes sense to me. I just purchased an 06 Sprinter with 26K miles. It is due for an oil change. I have used Valvoline Synpower MST in the past on an 08 model. Based on your post and many others - I may go with Mobil 1 0W-40. Is there a difference between this and Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 0W-40? Do you recommend a specific brand of oil filter and fuel filter?
 

Turbo John

New member
Thanks TurboJohn. Makes sense to me. I just purchased an 06 Sprinter with 26K miles. It is due for an oil change. I have used Valvoline Synpower MST in the past on an 08 model. Based on your post and many others - I may go with Mobil 1 0W-40. Is there a difference between this and Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 0W-40? Do you recommend a specific brand of oil filter and fuel filter?
Wow nice find man..! Was it an RV? I do happen to use 0W-40 Mobil 1 to some known as a designer oil. Yes you do want to use the turbo diesel oil if branded that way. I use the mann or hengst filter....but I am sure there are other good filters as well. By the way I was at a "Tires Plus" store not to long ago and they looked up in their computer what their computer recommended for the 04-06 Sprinter, and they stay up to date: Mobil 1 0W-40 Diesel.

There are only a few TRUE synthetics if you decide to go that route and this is ever evolving but Amsoil is another one along with I think one of the Penzoils and Schaeffer oil. The Schaeffer is a good oil but always late to the party with advances especially over the 0 W issue. I know they buy the best oil stock money will buy and their grease is the best in the world in my opinion.

Probably the most important thing for your engine is to keep the oil clean. The only way I have been able to do that is by deleting the EGR thru the ECU. My oil looks like a gas engine or maybe even cleaner after 2000 miles.....I have never seen a Diesel with this clean look on the dipstick after several thousand miles........when I first saw this I thought I was seeing things.
I suppose you could change the oil more often but for me the EGR delete is like some magic wand trick.

Well I hope you enjoy your T1N like I do!!:rad:. Its a little more noisy but relatively easy to work on and gets great mileage....I get around 28 out on the highway and always 21 to 23 in town. I have about 82k on mine not the LOW LOW mileage of yours...Must have been parked most of the time considering that's only about 2500 miles a year of so...
 

sailquik

Well-known member
srssrs,
Yes, there is a difference between Mobil 1 0-40 EUROPEAN CAR FORMULA and Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 0W-40.
Where have you seen Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 0W-40.....could not find this on the Mobil 1 pages....5W-40 yes, 0W-40 no.
Check the specifications on the Mobil Oil Co. pages.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_0W-40.aspx
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_Turbo_Diesel_Truck_5W-40.aspx

As suggested, arguably the "best" oil for your 5 cylinder OM-647 (also for the earlier '02-'03 OM-612 5 cylinder) is the
Mobil 1 0W-40 European Car Formula that meets or exceeds MB BEVO 229.3 and 229.5.
Roger
 

NelsonSprinter

Former Nelson BC Sprinter
OK - Thanks. Is there a Valvoline Synpower oil approved by MB 229.3? Do most owners agree that Mobil 1 0W-40 is best to use? Just trying to figure out what to purchase to change the oil in my 5 cyl. Sprinter diesel engine.
Most agree Mobil 1 0W40 is the better oil, but is not a requirement.
Valvoline Synpower HST or 5W40 is approved for MB229.5 and is approved for use in 647s and 612 engines in T1Ns.
iN NORTH AMERICA, Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel is not approved for use in any Sprinter, only the European version of Turbo Diesel is approved
 

220629

Well-known member
I'll comment, but we really don't need another oil discussion thread. That will take this Oil Change Write-up thread way off course. (Again?)

Many people have brand preference and will say that one oil is the best over others.

Mother Mercedes has invested a bunch of effort into specifying fluids for their vehicles.

Mercedes lists the following specifications as appropriate for the 5 cylinder OM612 and OM647 used in NAS aka NAFTA Sprinters.

Off the top of my pointy little head... MB228.3, MB228.5, MB229.3, MB229.5, MB229.51

If the viscosity range is appropriate for your expected operating conditions then the science behind BEVO indicates that any of the above spec oils are good to go. BEVO lists the oils alphabetically by brand and specific name in the various specifications (except Mercedes brand gets top billing). I have never seen where BEVO says one brand fluid within the classification is better than another.

BEVO is here.

http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolistenmain.php?entercustomer=true&language_id=1

vic
 

srssrs

New member
Thanks for all the great comments & info - very helpful to me. Would be great to know how to delete the EGR through the ECU. I will do a search on this forum to see if I can find out how to do it. It has always bothered me to find the oil getting black soon after a diesel oil change. And yes - the low mileage sprinter is an RV that sat parked in climate controlled storage many years of its life - 2006 Winnebago View. I have owned two Sprinter based RV's previous to this one - a 2006 Itasca Navion and a 2008 Winnebago View - both great RV's.
 

sailquik

Well-known member
Why don't you like the oil turning black soon after an oil change?
It's what the specific blends of oil for diesel engines are designed to do.
It's simply soot (soft...not particularly harmful in any way) that is suspended in the oil
which is specifically blended and formulated to have this feature and hold the particulates in
suspension so they all drain out at your next oil change.
Do you prefer breathing air with a higher Nitrogen Oxide (NOX) content or having your oil
turn black a little sooner?
Roger
 

Z15

New member
Mobile 1 is a true Synthetic.........
Mobil 1 extended performance is a PAO synthetic, regular Mobil 1 is a Gr 111 synthetic like ALL the major brands. About 15 few years ago an oil company had a Group III product that they called synthetic. Prior to that, only Group IV was called synthetic. The oil company won the BBB arbitration and after that the word synthetic has been "bastardized". It's come to mean lots of different things. So, it's "buyer beware" when it comes to synthetics. Unfortunate for everyone.
 

220629

Well-known member
... So, it's "buyer beware" when it comes to synthetics. Unfortunate for everyone.
Good to know.

My opinion. If you believe in the MB BEVO system and use products on the list approved for your vehicle then it really doesn't matter whether it is synthetic or not. The trick for me is finding what is on the BEVO list at a reasonable price.

Oil and fluids have been discussed at length in other threads.

:2cents: vic
 

brassarl

2006 T1N 2500 Long & Tall
Advanced Auto Parts had the correct size oil cap removal tool for $6

This was one of the easiest oil changes ever and cost $25 x2 = 10 qts 0W40 at walmart plus filter. instead of $200 at a dealer.
Do it.
For my last oil change, I remembered to use white lithium grease on all O rings including the one on the filter cap. You can hand tighten the cap by hand all the way down using this approach. It's even easier to remove the cap when it's time for the next change.
Lou
 

GunntuckySmooth

02 FL 2500SHC 140
Thanks for the tips Sikwan, they were very helpful. Made the oil change a breeze! One note in case somebody hasn't mentioned drain plug torque value in 14 pages of replies, it is 25nm. :rad: Cheers.
-Joel
 

Nautamaran

2004 140” HRC 2500 (Crewed)
the torque for the drain bolt is 35ft lbs (47Nm) right? I have the copper crush washer
Yes. (per pg 9-9 of the 2005 service manual)

Note that if you choose to reuse any copper seal washer it is recommended that you first anneal the washer by heating it blue-hot with a torch, keep it hot for about 30 seconds, then let cool (or quench as copper doesn't care much about rate of cooling, though I suppose quenching could warp it?). Remove surface oxide and you're good to go. This annealing resets the work hardening from previous use, and allows the washer to crush again as the plug is tightened, though it does NOT flatten it or remove the grooves and indents left by the plug, so some care and judgment should be applied. New seals are cheap, but if you don't have a new one a torch may get you out of a jam (but perhaps into a soup?).

-dave
 

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