I'd like to share my experiences related to this task. For Context: I am not an professional Mechanic. Your results may vary. You are warned.
I got a MIL Code for the #6 Glowplug. As I do, when I have a problem for one thing out of six... I'll fix all six. So I read everything every written about glowplugs. Bought the special pliers, and special glowplug swivel sockets, 7 new glowplugs, and 8 connectors and clips. I didn't have enough faith that I wouldn't break something, so I had spares on hand.
My 3500 Long, Tall Sprinter has 170,400mi. It is USA lefthand drive. I count plugs 1-3 on the right side, passenger, front of engine to back and 4-6 on the left side, driver, front of engine to back. My Plugs are 4v steel.
Before you start: Have your replacement glow plugs and replacement connectors including the solder-on clips. Have the special plug pliers. Have a can of PB Blaster. Have a high-watt solder iron, solder, contact cleaner, and possibly some heat shrink tubing. Get some anti-seize and dielectric grease. have a compressor with a fine blower attachment.
Task 1 - Expose the glow plug connectors. I'd hope this has been covered elsewhere. If you have trouble with this operation, you may want to consider not going after the plugs.
Task 2 - Remove the connectors. Now, this seemed like it was going to be the easiest part of the project, but proved to be the most difficult. I had the special pliers and I could get a grip on all six connectors but: #1 came off pretty OK with difficulty increasing numerically with #2 and #3 being the last to pop off intact. #4-#6 required (Image 0) Dremel Attack. The connectors could not be removed without destruction. When I got the plugs out, I understood why.
Task 3 - Now with the plug exposed. Blow out all the schmootz and connector debris that accumulated around the plugs (you did remember to seal off all the exhaust/turbo piping - yes?). Now: PB Blaster. I attach a hose to the nozzle and give a shot around each plug. And here's the most important step: Now walk away. Let it soak for as long and you can stand it, then take a look, and walk away again. I let mine soak overnight, blew out the area with compressed air, and gave them all a fresh shot of Blaster - and walked away.
So here's where opinions and my experience collide. EVERYthing I've ever read warns: Do not attempt removal of plugs on a cold engine. I wondered just how hot the motor would be after the hour or more it takes me to get the intake parts off. I wondered what codes would get thrown with six plugs disconnected.... and so on. SO...
I made a play for the least corroded plug first: Plug #1. I figured if it snapped, I could at least get a removal tool on it and learn about drilling out broken plugs. I put a six-sided, long socket on an extension, no swivel, with a 6" wrench (Image 1). And with the torque available from one finger as shown... I gave it a go. Nothing moved and nothing snapped. I walked away. I blew out the plug recess, and gave it another shot of Blaster. After an hour I could wait no longer and gave it another try. IT BUDGED.. maybe 15 degrees. I walked away. 20 minutes later, it turned 90 degrees, and I turned it back in 45 degrees, added a fresh shot of Blaster and waited, then turned it out one full rotation. Then I waited. Then I back the plug out completely. I had the first plug out and in my hand. So I put it back in finger-tight, and moved on to Plug #2.
And repeat the sequence 5 more times. All plugs came out. All new plugs went in with a dab of anti-seize. I tightened them with the same 6" wrench, snug like a spark plug.
When It came time to replace the connectors, I inspected and reinstalled #1-3. I replaced the connector for #4-6. The wire needs to be cleaned with contact cleaner, fresh copper exposed and a new clip liberally soldered on (Image 5). The grey connector just snaps on. When I reinstalled the connector, I put a dab of silicon dielectric grease on the clip.
So the whole connector removal hassle is related to the corrosion of the clip (Image 2 and 3). The original connector cannot be cut, broken or crushed, it's too soft. My only hope to expose the Plug was to hack the connector apart.
There you have it. My observations: Blaster is amazing. Be Patient. Don't always believe what you read. I got lucky.
I got a MIL Code for the #6 Glowplug. As I do, when I have a problem for one thing out of six... I'll fix all six. So I read everything every written about glowplugs. Bought the special pliers, and special glowplug swivel sockets, 7 new glowplugs, and 8 connectors and clips. I didn't have enough faith that I wouldn't break something, so I had spares on hand.
My 3500 Long, Tall Sprinter has 170,400mi. It is USA lefthand drive. I count plugs 1-3 on the right side, passenger, front of engine to back and 4-6 on the left side, driver, front of engine to back. My Plugs are 4v steel.
Before you start: Have your replacement glow plugs and replacement connectors including the solder-on clips. Have the special plug pliers. Have a can of PB Blaster. Have a high-watt solder iron, solder, contact cleaner, and possibly some heat shrink tubing. Get some anti-seize and dielectric grease. have a compressor with a fine blower attachment.
Task 1 - Expose the glow plug connectors. I'd hope this has been covered elsewhere. If you have trouble with this operation, you may want to consider not going after the plugs.
Task 2 - Remove the connectors. Now, this seemed like it was going to be the easiest part of the project, but proved to be the most difficult. I had the special pliers and I could get a grip on all six connectors but: #1 came off pretty OK with difficulty increasing numerically with #2 and #3 being the last to pop off intact. #4-#6 required (Image 0) Dremel Attack. The connectors could not be removed without destruction. When I got the plugs out, I understood why.
Task 3 - Now with the plug exposed. Blow out all the schmootz and connector debris that accumulated around the plugs (you did remember to seal off all the exhaust/turbo piping - yes?). Now: PB Blaster. I attach a hose to the nozzle and give a shot around each plug. And here's the most important step: Now walk away. Let it soak for as long and you can stand it, then take a look, and walk away again. I let mine soak overnight, blew out the area with compressed air, and gave them all a fresh shot of Blaster - and walked away.
So here's where opinions and my experience collide. EVERYthing I've ever read warns: Do not attempt removal of plugs on a cold engine. I wondered just how hot the motor would be after the hour or more it takes me to get the intake parts off. I wondered what codes would get thrown with six plugs disconnected.... and so on. SO...
I made a play for the least corroded plug first: Plug #1. I figured if it snapped, I could at least get a removal tool on it and learn about drilling out broken plugs. I put a six-sided, long socket on an extension, no swivel, with a 6" wrench (Image 1). And with the torque available from one finger as shown... I gave it a go. Nothing moved and nothing snapped. I walked away. I blew out the plug recess, and gave it another shot of Blaster. After an hour I could wait no longer and gave it another try. IT BUDGED.. maybe 15 degrees. I walked away. 20 minutes later, it turned 90 degrees, and I turned it back in 45 degrees, added a fresh shot of Blaster and waited, then turned it out one full rotation. Then I waited. Then I back the plug out completely. I had the first plug out and in my hand. So I put it back in finger-tight, and moved on to Plug #2.
And repeat the sequence 5 more times. All plugs came out. All new plugs went in with a dab of anti-seize. I tightened them with the same 6" wrench, snug like a spark plug.
When It came time to replace the connectors, I inspected and reinstalled #1-3. I replaced the connector for #4-6. The wire needs to be cleaned with contact cleaner, fresh copper exposed and a new clip liberally soldered on (Image 5). The grey connector just snaps on. When I reinstalled the connector, I put a dab of silicon dielectric grease on the clip.
So the whole connector removal hassle is related to the corrosion of the clip (Image 2 and 3). The original connector cannot be cut, broken or crushed, it's too soft. My only hope to expose the Plug was to hack the connector apart.
There you have it. My observations: Blaster is amazing. Be Patient. Don't always believe what you read. I got lucky.
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