Who wants an Arduino-based Aux Instrument Panel?

Source code is included on the microSD chip.

Owner: PM sent - your unit can ship this week.

-dave

can we figure out how to crack into the Espar? or totally unrelated data stream?
for service, code check, reset after lock-out?
M
Thanks. love my box, but really the duct tap (temporary) is below it's worth. any clean mounting solutions yet????

sassmatt72 said:

can we figure out how to crack into the Espar? or totally unrelated data stream?
for service, code check, reset after lock-out?
M
Thanks. love my box, but really the duct tap (temporary) is below it's worth. any clean mounting solutions yet????

Click to expand...

I bought some cheap modelling clay (not the fancy polymer stuff - actual clay) at a dollar store, laid down some plastic film on the dash by the A pillar, covered the box with film and molded a blob of the clay into a shape that would support the box in a good viewing position. Let it cure for a couple of days, and mounted it all up with some sticky backed Velcro. I did make sure there was some air space behind the small ventilation slots on the bottom of the box. I haven't driven with it yet, but it seems solid.

The work Calbiker and I did last year included sniffing and logging the Espar comms but in the end there wasn’t room on my board for a third k-line channel and the Mega ran short of memory so I needed to abandon the idea.
If you browse the source directory you’ll find an unfinished draft of the Espar scanning interface (code reading, live data) but it has never been tested. It would require another rewrite of the graphic interface to free enough ram for a third k-line... Pin 15 (ic/atc/zuh/zhe) would be a great choice to connect to, and the green wire in the case is already soldered to it.

-dave

How about a second (service only) scanner for spar and????

love your work, Thanks.
Matt

sassmatt72 said:

How about a second (service only) scanner for spar and????

love your work, Thanks.
Matt

Click to expand...

I think that’s called an AP-200...

Thinking about the ram limit, the code read/clear gui pages could be reworked into a single screen with a module select drop box. That maps the OBD Pin and ECU address (held in plentiful FLASH) then multiplex the third K-line driver to talk to the desired wire. Most of the code for this was written but I think the k-line state management needs more control in the Arduino program to track/limit line state when switching obd2 pins? Cal’s data logging project uses a mux to select between k-line pins but for some reason there was a BIG delay when reestablishing comms after switching away. I wasn’t able to trace the root cause (stepping through the code is tough on an embedded system running 1500 miles away... :shrug The line signal logs appeared to show the Arduino looping on the Fast-Initialisation routine, maybe due to unplugging the k-line and leaving the ECU in an undefined comms state? ...then having to wait for it to time out? I’m sure there’s a way to more smoothly suspend comms when switching mux channels rather than rolling all the way back to a new FastInit sequence? Details are a bit foggy as I haven’t looked at it since October. The Nautabox uses two k-line driver circuits connected full time, so managing the k-line state was relatively easy. Cal expanded the circuit to multiplex 8:1, so in theory he can connect the Arduino to any of the k-lines, but my k-line client software is still missing something?

-dave

FWIW after my velcro on the speaker wouldn't stick below the A pillar I set it on the lower right of the instrument panel. I just can't see the gas gauge, I still have both sides of the velcro stuck to the bottom and it hasn't moved in 1000 miles, I either tip it forward to see the gas or switch to the second screen for the gallons remaining. I can see the glow plug light through the side and tip it occasionally also to check for lights.

You can see it in the pic from the last ski day in AZ, CO or UT of the 2019/2020 season!

Regarding mounting: I use a magnetic cell phone mount in my vans and was thinking of just getting another mount and using that for the Nautabox. The base of the mount has a few little magnets embedded behind a flat surface, and then a small flat metal plate adheres to the phone or phone case. The strength would be more than enough to hold the Nautabox in place and you can swivel the base of the mount to adjust the angle based on driver/riding position. Is there anything in the Nautabox that could be damaged due to being in close proximity to a few little magnets?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I608BJ8/ref=twister_B0862GHWQL?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Is there anything in the Nautabox that could be damaged due to being in close proximity to a few little magnets?

Click to expand...

No.

Are there any know errors of the sump level reading low? I know there are times when it might read a little high but I haven’t heard of anyone with low reading.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

altide8 said:

Are there any know errors of the sump level reading low? I know there are times when it might read a little high but I haven’t heard of anyone with low reading.

Click to expand...

I recommend comparing the displayed oil sump level to your own van’s dipstick level.
My van’s sensor displays these numbers: (confirmed during oil change and refill; Red handled dipstick)

-dave

Red or yellow handle?

Midwestdrifter said:

Red or yellow handle?

Click to expand...

Red.

Well, I checked the datalog and I dont see any wheel speed differences more than a few %. Im not sure exactly what is happening to cause the brake light when its wet outside. Is there a way for this to read brake system codes out?

Are you getting the ASR lamp (spinning wheel, below the fuel gauge) or the Break Pads Wear lamp below the tach?

My break wear lamp comes on occasionally in damp conditions. I’ve always assumed the wet sensor gets bridged by the water and grounds out to the rotor, setting off the lamp... I inspect the pads during seasonal tire swaps and have plenty of material left on the pads.

(and no, I haven’t provided a driver for the CAB’s k-line, nor have I yet programmed anything to communicate with it)

-dave

Dunno if it's possible in your case, but in mine, i had water intrusion into the tail lights in the rain. It would pool in some of the 'bulb compartments' and cause issues from corrosion and bulbs burning out.
I drilled small drain holes in the bottom of the sections and put a water shield at the top made of scrap plastic.
my brake errors went away after that. It never turned the brake light on though.

Nautamaran said:

Are you getting the ASR lamp (spinning wheel, below the fuel gauge) or the Break Pads Wear lamp below the tach?

My break wear lamp comes on occasionally in damp conditions. I’ve always assumed the wet sensor gets bridged by the water and grounds out to the rotor, setting off the lamp... I inspect the pads during seasonal tire swaps and have plenty of material left on the pads.

(and no, I haven’t provided a driver for the CAB’s k-line, nor have I yet programmed anything to communicate with it)

-dave

Click to expand...

Ooohh, I had no idea it had such a thing, that makes a lot of sense. Thanks for that. Now I guess I gotta figure out why my cruise control stopped working another way. I thought it was something wrong with the brakes that was kicking it out of CC.

ASR (traction control) and ESP (stability) will both kick the cruise control off if they detect wheel spin. Tapping the brakes also disengages cruise...
If your wheel speed sensor logs look okay I’d check your brake switch. First thing I’d try is recalibrating the switch stem: crawl under, push pedal down with one hand, then pull the brake switch stem out to its full travel (it will make ratcheting clicks...) and release the pedal back against the switch stem (it will ratchet back firmly against the pedal in the OFF position)

-dave

Not worried but wondering others thoughts. After the latest homeschooling field trip to Lake Havasu I would hit stretches where the water was in the 222-224 range and the fan usually doesn't spin up until 225-228 range. Once the fan gets going it quickly drops to the 195 zone.

I see 2 options when stuck at the 222 area for 5+ minutes, let off or as I tried put my foot into it. I would try to push but she stayed pegged at 222ish. Don't think there are any issues for short runs at just below 225 or the fan would spin up earlier. Thoughts from any of you wise folks here?

Stay safe!

I see this when driving in cool damp ambient conditions, when the radiator efficiency is highest.

Remember that the temperature sensor is upstream of the radiator, and the fan clutch grabs only when the air exiting the radiator hits the trigger temperature. So if the coolant isn’t over-saturating the radiator with heat, there’s no need for the clutch to engage. Gearing down and increasing water pump speed can push more coolant through the rad, boosting exit air temp and getting the fan to engage.

Carry on,

-dave