Espar D2L with Easy Start Pro Controller Wiring Diagram

slamit

www.cacampervan.com
I thought I would post this as I am up fitting/improving on the Sportsmobile build I am doing currently which includes the new Espar D2L and Pro Controller. This controller has a built in high altitude switch and much less wiring compared to the older controller. You do however have to tell it to "switch" to high altitude when started. The controller however has built in diagnostic and the fan on the heater has higher use life. The other parts of the installation are pretty straight forward like the other models; (fuel, power). Its basically 4 wires/pins and a resistor (they ship with) you deal with outside of the power and fuel. The pump as well is quieter. The installs for these heaters are more than covered enough on the web with many examples so that won't be covered in this thread.

View attachment EasyStart Pro Installation Instructions Wiring (002).pdf
 

slamit

www.cacampervan.com
I also found out you need an adapter with the new fuel pump for Espar D2L, the hose they send doesn't fit right. The new pump has two thin male barbs on both ends rather than one being larger than the other like the older pumps. You could get away the older one with working with it with some parts from auto store using adapters to a 1/8 hose. I think many are just clamping it down on these new ones thinking they are good as the vendor I got this from said no one has ordered an adapter or brought this up, but you can pull it off with a good tug. Shady for sure if you did, these are teh small details that are important. You need a 3.5mm to a 5mm adapter. I ordered one p/n 2518888 80 01 02 and will see if it will work from pump to fuel pick up quick connect. I am pretty sure it will.

I will post my results when I get the adapter and hook up the line. Not a how to, but at least those who can understand how to hook these up will have a part number. It took me a call to tech support to figure this out as this is the first new pump I have worked with.
 
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slamit

www.cacampervan.com
You will need the adapter to go from 3.5 to 5mm hose to handle the intake side of the pump, the new pump uses 3.5mm on BOTH sides. I think others just rolled with the other hose and clamped it tight...not recommended. Use the right sizes and fits. I got the heater all up in running after having to order twice separate parts to get things all sorted. Its less confusing in wiring, the pump is WAY quieter than the old one, the controller is nothing special; but it does a lot more. I would recommend overall this upgrade. For the most part the older how to's are close enough for the heater install...just wiring, adapter, and hose issues are a little different. I am sure others will do an entire write up on install, this post is more of a helpful tech note for experienced installers who are familiar with the older system.

adapter picture has part number, its the plastic bag...I ordered a bunch for future installs so I don't have to deal with this in future. It stalled this heater install two weeks before I got everything sorted out parts wise. Thanks a ton to the Espar Tech Support, they were very helpful providing the wiring guide and the adapter part number so I owe this to them to share it reducing the calls they will get.

Adaptor.jpg

Pro Controller.jpg
 

slamit

www.cacampervan.com
have you guys seen the chinese clones of the espar for about $125.:dripsarcasm:
You pay for what you get...even the Espar "kits" you get on amazon or ebay are totally different than what you get from authorized distributors "kits" - there are big differences for ease of install, controller features, and accessories/hardware that come with the kit that can make the installation easier.

For for example a kit I installed recently had a harness that was two feet shorter to the controller, and a muffler that was way smaller; inferior hardware. It was a customer supplied Espar heater kit from Amazon, totally not worth the $200 he saved at all compared to going to a much better quality kit I use, but he had no idea to be honest of the differences in controllers, kits, and accessories.

There are not shortcuts to a quality product or kit, I see it all the time home builders using inferior products on their builds because they are trying to save a few $ or read about it online...there typically is a huge difference in the end result. If you are saving money on labor at least use a quality product.

How can anyone expect something that a product for half the cost will perform as well? Plus its fire and gas...not something I would take a short cut on personally.
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Some of us want to get many thousands of hours before we need to replace a heater. So we pay the premium for known brands with support.
 
I thought I would post this as I am up fitting/improving on the Sportsmobile build I am doing currently which includes the new Espar D2L and Pro Controller. This controller has a built in high altitude switch and much less wiring compared to the older controller. You do however have to tell it to "switch" to high altitude when started. The controller however has built in diagnostic and the fan on the heater has higher use life. The other parts of the installation are pretty straight forward like the other models; (fuel, power). Its basically 4 wires/pins and a resistor (they ship with) you deal with outside of the power and fuel. The pump as well is quieter. The installs for these heaters are more than covered enough on the web with many examples so that won't be covered in this thread.

View attachment 113832
Thanks so much for posting this diagram of the Pro Controller. I hadn't seen it before on their partner site or DVD they include. I bought the D2L with the Easy Pro Controller from esparparts.com.

I was really confused for a while with all the different wiring from the main harness that I thought I had to splice and make connectors until I came across your post and realized I had all the adapter to just plug in.

However, when I first turned it on it gives me a fault code "No Heater" with a wrench icon and doesn't fire up or anything, then the control turns off. Did you happen to encounter anything like this? How long did it take for your unit to fire right up? I know there seems to be a fuel priming period which causes faults.

Also, did you do anything with the other set of wires coming off the main harness? I have the power and ground hooked up and checked the voltage, all good there from that casing, but the other casing with 6 smaller wires in it I haven't done anything with it. Any help would be much appreciated!
 

slamit

www.cacampervan.com
Thanks so much for posting this diagram of the Pro Controller. I hadn't seen it before on their partner site or DVD they include. I bought the D2L with the Easy Pro Controller from esparparts.com.

I was really confused for a while with all the different wiring from the main harness that I thought I had to splice and make connectors until I came across your post and realized I had all the adapter to just plug in.

However, when I first turned it on it gives me a fault code "No Heater" with a wrench icon and doesn't fire up or anything, then the control turns off. Did you happen to encounter anything like this? How long did it take for your unit to fire right up? I know there seems to be a fuel priming period which causes faults.

Also, did you do anything with the other set of wires coming off the main harness? I have the power and ground hooked up and checked the voltage, all good there from that casing, but the other casing with 6 smaller wires in it I haven't done anything with it. Any help would be much appreciated!
You likely hooked up the wrong wires at the main harness. The loom with the "big" set of wires...you don't use, you use the one with the resistor and you flip the resistor to the controller side. You purchased from an authorized dealer, give ESPAR support a call...they can help you figure it out. You only have to connect a few wires - controller, power, and pump wires...super easy. It takes a while to fire it up, I use a brake bleeder to get fuel to the heater before I start to fire it up...but it still takes a while.
 
Appreciate the quick reply, @slamit!

I ended up having all the connection locations correct, and Espar support took my number to call me back since they had to look into it further. After I got off the phone with them, I double checked all the connections again and realized the connection I had to create with the supplied connectors after moving the resistor wasn't fully connecting as to why it did not read the heater at all. The power wire was likely touching but not the full communication wire(s)? I didn't use that orange plastic piece to tightly secure all the connections inside the socket chamber when first making it. Once I did that, it initialized properly then took about 5-6 start cycles before it was humming.

So far so good and stoked for hunkering down while the snow is failing to get an early start on the powder days at the slopes!

Next up, is clearing the SRS alert... If I am reading correctly on the forums, I should of unhooked the main battery power before disconnecting the driver's seat and airbag. I'll see if my ODB reader for my Astro van works to clear it, but if not that will be my next task.

Thanks again!
 

slamit

www.cacampervan.com
Appreciate the quick reply, @slamit!

I ended up having all the connection locations correct, and Espar support took my number to call me back since they had to look into it further. After I got off the phone with them, I double checked all the connections again and realized the connection I had to create with the supplied connectors after moving the resistor wasn't fully connecting as to why it did not read the heater at all. The power wire was likely touching but not the full communication wire(s)? I didn't use that orange plastic piece to tightly secure all the connections inside the socket chamber when first making it. Once I did that, it initialized properly then took about 5-6 start cycles before it was humming.

So far so good and stoked for hunkering down while the snow is failing to get an early start on the powder days at the slopes!

Next up, is clearing the SRS alert... If I am reading correctly on the forums, I should of unhooked the main battery power before disconnecting the driver's seat and airbag. I'll see if my ODB reader for my Astro van works to clear it, but if not that will be my next task.

Thanks again!
I don't use the quick connects no reason to; just connect the wires directly, faster, easier, and its only a few wires and they are all inside the van so water proof connector is not important. The only reason you would disconnect is if you replaced the heater...I had your same issue before...it was a bad connection...sorted it out very quickly by double checking. The new heater is so much easier to wire up unlike the old controller with high altitude kit...could be a bit confusing if you wanted to toggle switch it.
 

Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
Next up, is clearing the SRS alert... If I am reading correctly on the forums, I should of unhooked the main battery power before disconnecting the driver's seat and airbag. I'll see if my ODB reader for my Astro van works to clear it, but if not that will be my next task.

Thanks again!
Check out the Autel AP200 to clear your SRS light, it'll be a lot cheaper than a visit to a dealer!

I doubt a generic OBD reader will be able to talk to your SRS module.

Keith.
 

H.Mont

Member
Could someone clear this up for me - Does the Easy Start Pro controller for the S2 D2L Espar heater have built-in temperature control. It claims it does, but everything I am reading about the unit is that it is still an optional add-on device to have the temperature read at the controller. Please see page 12 of the pro controller manual. Am I correct that without this add-on, the heater temperature is sensing from the heater, not the controller?

https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/Eberspacher_EasyStart_PRO_-_Installation_Instruction_Manual.pdf
 

Bikes!

Member
Could someone clear this up for me - Does the Easy Start Pro controller for the S2 D2L Espar heater have built-in temperature control. It claims it does, but everything I am reading about the unit is that it is still an optional add-on device to have the temperature read at the controller. Please see page 12 of the pro controller manual. Am I correct that without this add-on, the heater temperature is sensing from the heater, not the controller?

https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/Eberspacher_EasyStart_PRO_-_Installation_Instruction_Manual.pdf
Yes. Just installed mine a few weeks ago and found that confusing too. It has the temp gauge built-in to the pro controller and works great.
 

H.Mont

Member
Yes. Just installed mine a few weeks ago and found that confusing too. It has the temp gauge built-in to the pro controller and works great.
Fantastic!! I thought that was the case. Did you just plug and play? I don't follow what Slamit is talking about in the earlier part of this thread - changing the resistor loop position , etc.
 

slamit

www.cacampervan.com
Fantastic!! I thought that was the case. Did you just plug and play? I don't follow what Slamit is talking about in the earlier part of this thread - changing the resistor loop position , etc.
In the wiring diagram it is labeled CAN Bus Termination in yellow. You take it off the "heater" side of the controller harness and attach it to the "controller" side of the harness. Hope this makes sense. The ESPAR Tech support referred to it as the resistor loop. After moving this to the "controller" side you now can connect the controller harness to the "main" harness at the heater.

The support for USA ESPAR is very good...when stuck give them a call...they are really helpful if you don't understand something they can walk you through it...they have incredible patience for stupid questions. (I am the asking the stupid questions) This is also why you buy your stuff from an authorized distributor...so you can get support and warranty and make sure you get a complete kit.
 

pro-googler

New member
I thought I would post this as I am up fitting/improving on the Sportsmobile build I am doing currently which includes the new Espar D2L and Pro Controller. This controller has a built in high altitude switch and much less wiring compared to the older controller. You do however have to tell it to "switch" to high altitude when started. The controller however has built in diagnostic and the fan on the heater has higher use life. The other parts of the installation are pretty straight forward like the other models; (fuel, power). Its basically 4 wires/pins and a resistor (they ship with) you deal with outside of the power and fuel. The pump as well is quieter. The installs for these heaters are more than covered enough on the web with many examples so that won't be covered in this thread.

View attachment 113832
This thread has already been so helpful, thanks for the wiring diagram, I wouldn't have figured out that you needed to move that resistor.

Wondering if you can help me figure out the power situation on my wiring harness though. I have the new Espar S2 D2L but my wiring harness looks a little different than every tutorial / video I've seen online so far - even ones for the S2 D2L :idunno: It also seems different than the wiring diagram in the manual but I'm not super familiar with reading electrical diagrams.

This is the whole wiring harness: 20191101_212406.jpg 20191101_212435.jpg

I'm confused about the power situation because all installs I've seen have had a large red (20a fuse), large black, and a small red wire (5a fuse). But this harness has two groupings of long wires: (1) ends in a large red and large brown 20191101_212442.jpg - it would seem these would be the positive and negative and fuse red with 20a? and (2) a grouping of yellow, redwhite, bluewhite, brownwhite, greyred, and red (is this the small red wire that's in everyone's install videos??) 20191101_212429.jpg.

What's throwing me off is this 3a fuse block coming from the main harness 20191101_212503.jpg

Any help would be super appreciated. I'm assuming that this is the "simplified wiring harness" discussed and maybe I'm overcomplicating things. FYI it did also come with an inline fuse with 15a and 20a fuses.

Is this what your S2 D2L harness looked like?
 

H.Mont

Member
That harness is not the same as mine. I ordered an S2 D2L Espar from Heatso. My harness is the same as the one that is shown in the video by these guys - Mr. and Mrs. Adventure https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ReE4rXC4aU My understanding is the kits vary a lot. This is why I did not understand what Slamit was/is talking about because I have not had to move my resistor.

Possibly, the difference is based on what controller you order with the unit. This may change the configuration of the wire harness. I ordered my heater with the Easy Start Pro controller.

Hope this helps.
 
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slamit

www.cacampervan.com
There is a better adapter to be used for the fuel tap to hose to the fuel pump. Its a 3.5 to 7.5mm and fits much better. Use a 11mm clamp as well. This rubber adapter is more robust as well. esparparts.com whom I get my heater from sourced this recently for me. They are an authorized dealer in USA and carry all the complete kits and parts as well as do service on heaters.

Part numbers:
2.1000.20.3000 fuel line adaptor 3.5mm to 7.5mm
10.2068.01.1098 hose clamp 11mm

sprinter fuel adpator large.jpg
 

H.Mont

Member
There is a better adapter to be used for the fuel tap to hose to the fuel pump. Its a 3.5 to 7.5mm and fits much better. Use a 11mm clamp as well. This rubber adapter is more robust as well. esparparts.com whom I get my heater from sourced this recently for me. They are an authorized dealer in USA and carry all the complete kits and parts as well as do service on heaters.

Part numbers:
2.1000.20.3000 fuel line adaptor 3.5mm to 7.5mm
10.2068.01.1098 hose clamp 11mm

View attachment 120880
Looks like you have discovered an even better adaptor than your one in post #4. I hunted down one like in post #4 from your advice. I like the looks of these better. Had to soak the other in hot water to get it go onto the Dorman connector. It worked. Do you know why the wire harnesses are so different? I ordered mine through Heatso.com with a Easy Start Pro controller.
 

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