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Old 06-13-2019, 01:22 AM   #91
BobLLL
 
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Default Re: Agile battery separator

I have an adapter that allows me to connect an ordinary extension cord to the shore power connector on the rv. So I can plug into a garage wall outlet that is too far away for the 30 amp cable. And it is a lot easier handling a regular extension cord than dragging out that heavy cable. This allows me to easily use the perfectly good charger built into the rv to charge both batteries at the same time. Just plug it in for a couple of hours, and its done. The charger only draws a few amps through the cord, so don't need a 30 amp cable. Just don't try to run the air conditioner or microwave at the same time through the extension cord.

The adapter is a Conntek 30222. Looks like this:
shore power adapter Conntek 30222-YW v2.jpg

You are not likely to find it in a local store. Can order it from Amazon and other places online. About $25.
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Old 06-13-2019, 06:09 AM   #92
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Default Re: Agile battery separator

We don't have a trailer but good to know, we just have the spare tire continental kit as BobLLL mentioned. I'll re-connect everything and see what happens, if the drain is consistent it's a lot easier to track like you said. If I find it I'll post back.
I liked the simplicity of the old diode chargers back in the day, they had their faults to but I don't remember to many issues.
I want to thank you gentlemen for all the guidance and time you have given, I sincerely appreciate it.

Steve
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Old 06-13-2019, 06:54 PM   #93
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Default Re: Agile battery separator

If you have a trailer hitch, then you have the MB trailer module ... which DOES add a fuse to the system for its own power.

It's listed in my wiring diagram as "Fuse 4 in Fuse Block 3" which is 7.5 amps.
I'll see if i can locate which block is #3 in the fuse list (done).

Found it, driver's seat-side panels, upper left, 4th in from the left:

TrailerFuse.png


--dick
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Last edited by autostaretx; 06-13-2019 at 07:02 PM.
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Old 06-13-2019, 07:09 PM   #94
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Default Re: Agile battery separator

The fuse list is in the operators manual. #4 is trailer control unit AAG, #15 is trailer recognition unit.
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Old 06-13-2019, 08:24 PM   #95
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Default Re: Agile battery separator

BobLLL, somehow I overlooked the post about using a lighter duty extension cord and RV adapter. The charger that is onboard the Agile is the one you were referring to? Sure would beat the underhood nonsense. Does the monitor power switch have to be on to charge?

Autostarext, thanks for the information on the trailer monitoring circuit, I didn't know about that one until you brought it up, thanks!

If I connect my meter for measuring drain, I should be able to identify the offending circuit by pulling fuses one at a time, barring there aren't multiple problems.

Thank you!

Steve
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Old 06-14-2019, 09:20 AM   #96
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Default Re: Agile battery separator

Getting closer, Steve!
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Old 06-14-2019, 05:33 PM   #97
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Default Re: Agile battery separator

Steve: No, the switch does not need to be on during charging. Did you get that cigarette lighter voltmeter we talked about in another thread? It is a good idea to use that to confirm the separator has engaged and the starting battery is getting a charge along with the coach batteries. The Tripp Lite charger is rated for 45 amps, but the resistance of the long wires between the charger and the batteries reduces the typical charge rate to about 25 amps by my measurements. Even so, the charge cycle can happen pretty quickly unless the batteries are deeply discharged. The charge continues at full rate until the voltage rises to about 14.4, then switches to "float" mode at about 13.4 volts. It will continue in float mode as long as it is plugged in. A constant charge at 13.4 does not hurt the batteries, but probably not good to keep plugged in all the time as the separator gets so hot it seems like it may cook itself. I don't think the separator is designed for constant duty.

Bottom line: Charge at least once a week (maybe more often if your high drain situation continues- best to not let the voltage drop below 12.5). Leave it plugged in an hour or so, then if the cigarette meter has settled around 13.2 to 13.4, unplug the shore power. Also, the meter can work loose in the socket, so if the reading seems nutty, shove it back in and twist around a bit to make a good connection.

This system has worked well for me for almost 8 years.
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Last edited by BobLLL; 06-14-2019 at 06:24 PM. Reason: Clarification
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Old 06-15-2019, 05:15 PM   #98
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Default Re: Agile battery separator

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobLLL View Post
A constant charge at 13.4 does not hurt the batteries, but probably not good to keep plugged in all the time as the separator gets so hot it seems like it may cook itself. I don't think the separator is designed for constant duty.
Given that warning, i'd buy a different separator (or, if it's a relay-style, perhaps add a resistor to the coil circuit ... but if the problem is heat generated by and/or damaging the heavy-current contact points: buy a beefier one)

--dick
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2005 T1N 118" Freightliner 2500 Passenger Wagon (2.7L, 15" tires, standard (short) roof)
Get YOUR Sprinter's full configuration datacard by entering your VIN to https://www.datamb.com/
http://diysprinter.co.uk/reference <-- lots of service documentation, Thanks to Jens Moller and Arnie_Oli
((as always: this post may go through a couple of post-posting edits... so maybe give it ten minutes before commenting))
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Old 06-15-2019, 05:31 PM   #99
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Default Re: Agile battery separator

Yes, I replaced mine with a Blue Sea latching relay, which does not keep the coil powered except to latch on and off. But I think Steve's project list is full right now. And Blue Sea units are not cheap, and involve some drilling for new mounting holes in the firewall. There is plenty of discussion in older threads on here, and here is a link to installation instructions by RT.SS:
http://roadtreklife.blogspot.com/201...ue-sea-ml.html
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