Baby Shamu - 170 4x4

Nimpoc

Enginerd in wander
Great info, thanks!

Where did you intercept the signal from the temp sensor? Did you run your dual pair all the way to the sensor in the bumper and splice in there, or did you find the appropriate connectors and terminate with pins?

M<


In the picture below the two wires from the ambient temperature sensor, located behind the front grill, are connected to one pair of the outer terminals of the DPDT switch. The two wires from the ECU that previously were connected to the ambient temperature sensor are connected to the center pair of terminals on the switch. Between the remaining pair of terminals is a resistor.

Your choice of resistor will determine what temperature the ECU will see. The various Espar D5 run times associated with the outside temperature are documented in the owner’s manual. In the pictures I initially attached a 22k ohm resistor. This should represent 5F on the dash but as you can see it occasionally reads 4F. This was a problem because the temperature cutoff for a 40 minute versus 50 minute D5 run time is 5F. I wanted it to cycle 40 minutes and not 50 minutes so I changed the resistor to 15k ohms which represents 18F.

I recommend you only utilize this switch to fool the ECU while the van is stationary with the keys removed from the ignition. Switching it while the ECU is “awake” could cause a momentary interruption which the ECU might interpret as a fault. Not a big deal if you have an Autel to clear the fault.

I am using this switch, the factory D5, and an Isotemp Spa marine heater as another option to heat my water.






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gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
I intercepted the wires about 8-12” from the bumper mounted ambient temperature sensor. I used two male and two female quick disconnects which would allow me to restore the wiring to the original configuration if needed with the connection out of sight.
 
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gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
Amazing build! Apologies if I missed it, but what is the double seat? Perfect size.

Thanks!


The double seat is from the last four seat row of a Ford Transit passenger van. It measures 31” wide. There is a left and a right side version. The floor brackets are offset. Don’t confuse it with the mid-row 36” wide double seat also on the Transit.

I purchased the entire rear seat with left and right double seats on eBay. Tested each to see which fit better. My floor brackets are offset to the drivers side.

 

Boathik

Tinkerer extraordinaire
RE: Water heater

I’m planning to replicate your water heater setup because it is so well thought out.

What made you chose the Spa version instead of the one with the stainless exterior?

What measures do you take to protect your exterior plumbing in freezing weather, both winter use and winter storage?

Thanks
Josh


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gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
RE: Water heater

I’m planning to replicate your water heater setup because it is so well thought out.
What made you chose the Spa version instead of the one with the stainless exterior?
What measures do you take to protect your exterior plumbing in freezing weather, both winter use and winter storage?

Thanks
Josh

The Spa and Stainless versions of the Isotemp are identical except for the exterior cover. The plastic cover is holding up well under the van. I would think the stainless version is more prone to dents. Spa version is also cheaper.

I use my van year round so no need for winter storage. I do have freeze protection for winter trips. The Isotemp water heater is controlled by a thermostat set to kick on at 35F. My undercarriage water lines are PEX wrapped in foil, foam, and heat tracing which turns on around 45F.

Inkbird Dual Stage DV 12V Digital Temperature Controller Fahrenheit Thermostat Heating and Cooling for Homebrewing Brew Fermenter Fridge Incubator Greenhouse https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019I3YCFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_XXMzEb7YNFFM8

Easy Heat AHB-118 Cold Weather Valve and Pipe Heating Cable, 18-Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002N96H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_NUMzEbDZ9MCAV



 
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gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
AIR COMPRESSOR

For my air compressor I wanted something capable of filling 33” tires and also setting the bead on my tubeless MTB tires. I also needed something that can fill a 12’ long inflatable SUP, stand up paddle board. I have used an assortment of air compressors in the past, mostly Viair branded products. I learned early on that anything that plugs into a cigarette lighter will fail miserably. Just not enough amps.

Based on @SprinterPaul’s recommendation I went with a Puma air compressor. Apparently the Puma has become popular with the Jeep and expedition crowd for its ability to fill large tires quickly. The Puma is a 12 volt, 3/4 HP, and 135 psi working pressure capable of producing 3 cfm at 90 psi. It comes with a 1.5 gallon tank. It is also intended for continuous use, without overheating, unlike some of the other 12 volt products on the market. It weighs approximately 31 lbs with the tank. At $230 the Puma is also relatively inexpensive compared to an ARB twin air.




My plan was to install this compressor beneath the floor on the rear drivers side of my 170 4x4. To make the unit fit I had to separate the tank from the compressor and reorient it into a horizontal package as opposed to the original vertical orientation.



I fabricated a tubular steel frame on which I could bolt the air compressor/motor. I welded the tank directly to this frame. The frame was then thru-bolted to the floor using some recessed washers on top.









I also elected to shorten the air outlet on the tank for a better fit once mounted.



In its reconfigured horizontal orientation the compressor fit nicely into the driver’s side void with room to spare. The low point of the compressor head still sits inches above the van’s lower sheet metal so no worries about potential off road damage. The copper air line between the compressor and the 1.5 gallon tank was easily bent to fit the new horizontal orientation. The drain valve is angled slightly off dead center but still functions adequately.







I routed the control wires and an air outlet thru the floor to a small Penn Elcom control panel where I installed a Viair lighted air pressure gauge, an air quick release, and a lighted on/off switch. The on/off switch is connected to a relay as is a second on/off switch located in a center overhead panel above the driver so the compressor can be activated while driving. The 12 volt relay is rated for 120 amps. The relay is connected to a resettable breaker rated for 50 amps. I believe the air compressor pulls approximately 30+ amps when operating. The copper marine conductor feeding the air compressor is #6, good for at least 50 amps.

Still to be completed is adding an air quick release to the front of the van. Until then I have a 25’ air hose that reaches all four tires.















The Puma has proven up to the task. It inflated my Costco SUP in about 10 minutes. Ironically a young man parked next to me was trying to pump up the first of two identical Costco SUPs using the hand pump provided . He was part way through the first SUP when I arrived. I was out on the water while he, near exhaustion, was still working on inflating the first paddle board. By the time I was packing up to leave he had both SUPs inflated.



I also tested the compressor more recently while driving the length of Pismo Beach. Upon turning around at the end of the 5 mile long beach I started to bury the van in soft sand. 70 psi was not going to work even with four wheel drive so I quickly took the tires down to less than 40 psi before heading back to camp where I quickly topped up each tire to my typical highway pressures.



 
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  • Thanks
Reactions: mve

sprinterPaul

Well-known member
I still love my puma. The air tank makes it easy to set up tubeless tires on my mtb. In addition to being the first one back to road pressures.


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Nimpoc

Enginerd in wander
Where did you intercept the signal?
Did you cut / splice, or develop a connector solution?


https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=856332&postcount=102

Sorry, I just saw that you replied above. Thanks for the great, informative thread!

I just succeeded in getting the dealer to reprogram my heater from HZ9 to H12, and this is the next step!

Thanks,
M<


In the picture below the two wires from the ambient temperature sensor, located behind the front grill, are connected to one pair of the outer terminals of the DPDT switch. The two wires from the ECU that previously were connected to the ambient temperature sensor are connected to the center pair of terminals on the switch. Between the remaining pair of terminals is a resistor.

Your choice of resistor will determine what temperature the ECU will see. The various Espar D5 run times associated with the outside temperature are documented in the owner’s manual. In the pictures I initially attached a 22k ohm resistor. This should represent 5F on the dash but as you can see it occasionally reads 4F. This was a problem because the temperature cutoff for a 40 minute versus 50 minute D5 run time is 5F. I wanted it to cycle 40 minutes and not 50 minutes so I changed the resistor to 15k ohms which represents 18F.

I recommend you only utilize this switch to fool the ECU while the van is stationary with the keys removed from the ignition. Switching it while the ECU is “awake” could cause a momentary interruption which the ECU might interpret as a fault. Not a big deal if you have an Autel to clear the fault.

I am using this switch, the factory D5, and an Isotemp Spa marine heater as another option to heat my water.






Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
CARGO COMPARTMENTS

I sized my rear cargo compartments based on multiple needs. One requirement was the compartments being short enough in height to allow bike pedals to overhang the compartments. This allows me to place bikes adjacent to the compartment fitting up to 5 bikes across. The compartments had to be wide enough to fully enclose the wheel wells and also accept multiple GC2 batteries mounted sideways. The result is a compartment on each side measuring approximately 12 x12” and about 72” in length.









I installed a total of four identical and interchangeable lids. Each lid included a 3” wide fixed portion along the walls which allows me to vertically store my bed panels without interfering with the hinged lid. The wall mounted L-Track secures the bed panels. The hinged openings are just big enough for a GC2 battery to fit thru. I currently have my batteries under the van but want the option of mounting lithium batteries in the compartments.

I also positioned the hinged lids vertically to provide a 1/8” gap on the underside of one edge when closed. This allows me to install lower bed panels that straddle the two side compartments without interfering with the operation of the compartment lids. Small rubber bumpers on the underside of each lid keep it level.

The compartments are fabricated from 3/4” thin wall steel tubing painted black. Each frame weighs about 15 lbs. the bottom leg is bolted through the floor using 5/16 stainless bolts. The wall side is attached using the same 5/16” bolts and Rivnuts installed in the van structure. I inserted a scrap of fabric covered panel between the compartment frame and the wall during initial construction to simulate the yet to be built wall panels.






Before installing the steel frames I covered each wheel well with a layer of Noico/Kilmat, followed by a 1/4 layer of minicell foam, and finally the factory rubber wheel well covers. The wheel wells are a huge source of noise. The factory wheel well covers fit over the added minicell foam because I had raised the floor by 1/2” thus creating the added space.

The cargo compartment walls consist of 1/4” wood floor underlayment covered with Loncoin. I glued the Loncoin to the slightly oversized panels using Roberts 2310 floor adhesive. I then cut the panels to size on a table saw. The result is a clean edge. The panels were then attached to the steel tubing using construction adhesive. I painted the one exposed wood edge with black paint to match the adjacent black steel. This edge is covered by the lid either way. I trimmed out the corner with 1/2” aluminum angle.







The top to each compartment was fabricated in a similar manner as the walls. The tops are 1/2” pre-finished maple again covered with the Loncoin and cut to size. The bottom edge is notched using a table saw so that the 3/4” aluminum channel will fit snugly over the edge including the Loncoin. The aluminum channel is secured using construction adhesive. The 3/4” channel was a unique size I found at Home Depot. The local metal supply house with a large inventory did not carry the same size.



The location of the 35mm hinge holes initially posed a problem. They overlapped the aluminum channel. Luckily a sharp properly sized hole saw made quick work of the hinge holes. A 35mm forstner bit cleaned out the remaining wood. All four lids were identically sized as were the positions of the hinges so they are interchangeable. The holes for the latches were straightforward. I used Southco black plastic latches that have proven to be reliable and quiet.






The hinges are 110 degree Blum soft close. As is typical with European style hinges these included quick releases allowing easy removal of the lids if necessary.



The fixed portion of the lids were attached to the steel frame using construction adhesive. An 1/8” spacer was also inserted between the lid and frame to provide the earlier mentioned 1/8” gap for my lower aluminum bed panels, yet to be built.

I had previously run Pex plumbing to the passenger side compartment for my outdoor shower. I also ran a 30 amp AC circuit to the driver side for a potential generator feed. My air compressor was mounted on the drivers side below the floor. I used a pair of matching black 3 x 5” recessed panels for the shower connection and the air compressor connection. Details of these panels were covered in earlier posts.

At this point in time the compartments are partially filled with “full time” camping gear including both small and large sand mats, multiple camp chairs, a tool bag, tow strap, bike pump, spare blankets, and other miscellaneous gear.





 
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gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
Have you thought about utilizing the space under the rear seats? or it is too small to use it?

I assume. you are referring to my two passenger Transit seat. Before I built the rear cargo compartments I would store my 4 camp chairs and camp table under the seat. Now I keep the chairs and table in the cargo compartment. Under seat storage is now primarily for assorted shoes. The sloped backside of my Transit seat is occupied by my “mini bar” and inverter. No wasted space in my van, just wasted campers.




 
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gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
New modified hood wrap. Saw Wrinkled pants hood wrap and liked it. I had already wrapped entire hood and the grill trim so Wrap Shop just added matching silver wrap over the headlights. Perfect color match.

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gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
MORE CABINETS

Even though my van is a roomy 170 I made a conscious effort to make use of every bit of real estate inside my van. I located as many components as possible below the van floor including my four batteries, 4 gallon Isotemp water heater, 7 gallon propane tank, 16 gallon gray water tank, and an air compressor. My concern was that I would not have adequate storage in the van interior. My last minute decision to add a shower to the floor plan left me with a 12”W x 76”H x 24”D space for the majority of my interior storage. This tall narrow space now includes a top and bottom matching door panels and two large drawers.

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On the passenger side of my van storage opportunities were also limited. I made use of all the space in the sink cabinet by using drawers of varying lengths and widths to accommodate the plumbing. I even added a 4”tall drawer below the refrigerator to hold pizza pans and such.

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The two door panels are identical from the exterior but they operate differently. The top door has 155 degree inset hinges that swing clear to allow for a pullout tray. The pullout tray contains my Nespresso coffee maker, the smallest coffee/expresso machine. The lower door is actually a pullout trash container.

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All the drawers were constructed using half blind dovetails, my first time employing this method. Even the smallest 4” wide drawers located on each side of the sink are made with half blind dovetail joints. The wood for the drawer sides was pre-finished 1/2” Baltic birch plywood. All of the drawers and pullouts use Blum soft close slides of various lengths from 12” to 21”. The Blum slides are high quality but also very heavy. In many cases the slides were heavier than the finished drawer. A useful feature of these slides is the quick releases that allow quick removal of any drawer or pullout.

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The top of my driver side storage includes a lighting switch panel. The six switches control ceiling, shower, cargo, and interior cabinet lighting. The dead space directly behind this switch panel and above the Nespresso pullout is used for bulky items like chips. The lower pullout contains a trash can with enough room behind it for cleaning supplies.

Southco latches were used on all the drawers and doors. The drawer faces are constructed of solid maple surrounding 1/4” maple ply in the center. What appears to be a drawer in front.
 
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gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
MORE CABINET PHOTOS

Since this new “improved” Sprinter Forum format can only accommodate 5 pictures at a time I am posting these separately. Updating this build thread has also now become a painful process using the new format compared to the previous Tapatalk.

The larger 21” deep drawers combined with the lower sink drawer accommodate all of my cooking and eating tools as well as a good amount of non-refrigerated food.

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sprint2freedom

2008 NCV3 170ext
Very nice. Can you tell us about your inset cabinet hinges- how thick are the cabinet face frames? Did you use a jig or just a forstner bit to mount the door side?
 

gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
Very nice. Can you tell us about your inset cabinet hinges- how thick are the cabinet face frames? Did you use a jig or just a forstner bit to mount the door side?
The hinge for the expresso door pullout is a 155 degree Blum I believe. There is a specific mounting plate for using the hinge on inset doors. I usually let the staff at my local hardwood and hardware store, THH, tell me what I need since there are dozens of choices and it can be very confusing.

The door frames are 3/4” solid maple. I used a 35mm Forstner bit for the hinge cups.
 
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gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
DOOR SCREENS

Recently modified an inexpensive $32 magnetic door screen to fit the slider door. Purchased a 72” wide x 80” tall bug screen from Amazon. The height was perfect, no modifications necessary. For the width we temporarily taped it up and used painters tape to mark the cut line on the left side. I removed the stitched Velcro loop from the one side in a few minutes and cut the screen to size. The wife sewed the salvaged Velcro back on following the new contour. We taped the partially modified screen back up and repeated the process for the right side. The screen came with adhesive Velcro hook tape which we attached on the top and sides adjacent to the rubber door seal to make it as unnoticeable as possible.

The new screen allows the slider to open and close freely. The bottom edge did not have any Velcro but drapes over the edge slightly. The Velcro allows us to remove the screen easily when it is not needed. Just ordered a second screen so we can repeat the process for the rear door.

MAGZO Magnetic Screen Door 72 x 80, Fiberglass French Door Mesh Curtain with Heavy Duty Fits Door Size up to 72"x80" Max-Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073YTBXZ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tau_Nd91Eb8MJNQEM

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sprint2freedom

2008 NCV3 170ext
I modified a similar bug screen that came with adhesive velcro for my sliding door. I'm very happy with the greatly improved ventilation that it allows. Unfortunately when I parked in the sun and the body metal got hot enough to burn my fingertips the adhesive melted, causing the screen to sag out of position and leaving a sticky mess behind.

The fix was to remove the cheap adhesive velcro that came with it and replace it with this 3M product which is rated to 200F. It's expensive but works perfectly even in full sun.
 

gltrimble

2017 170 4x4
REAR DOOR SCREEN

After the success of the slider door screen I ordered a second $32 screen for my rear doors. In this case I installed the screen under the rear door seal. The seal was more easily removed compared to the slider rubber door seal. I started off by aligning the bottom of the new screen to the door sill. I removed the rubber door seal and taped the screen in rough position. I then installed the rubber seal over the screen and adjusted the tension on the screen for a good fit. I then trimmed the screen approximately 1” beyond the rubber door seal using a razor knife. My wife stitched the Velcro trim to the new profile. The new screen was then installed under the rubber door seal. I also cut slots in the screen for the door 90 degree retainers and the strike latches at the top.

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