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Old 06-12-2019, 06:37 PM   #1
skwoodwiva
 
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Default Manuanl override: 1)intake actuator-fresh/recirc 2)heat shutoff 3)aux/engine fan sw

Pics in next 3 posts.
Added #4) a rock gard when a Sprinter guy said how many belts get trashed by flying objects.

Its hot now in LA, so I have done all 3.

I also have an Onan that leaks CO & it is in need of a crafty welder, muffler guys cannot do it well, at least 2 & one twice!

I put a reverse sw on my Fantastic Fan which helps but with many openings in the floor yet to be controlled, it is not enough.

I have been an HVACR building engineer for 35 years, I have yet to see very many vehicles with a system designed to keep the compressor "happy" temperature wise. Having the heat valve shut COMPLETELY is a no brainer. I go to a Sprinter guy & ask to see a good takeoff valve, it leaks a little when I blow through it. I am not saying a new one would but they might. He said it is fine 30 K miles. My 176 K leaks. Easy(not but is my baby) cheap solution from old parts: a manual ball valve 1/2 " SS NPT. I chose the area just above the throttle pedel. A strut channel 2 hole strap & 2 hose clamps make the mount to the firewall. The now (I ground to 1/4" looking just like a ratchet extension) fashioned shaft. On that I ground a short extension leaving the 1/4 female. Then tapering the boss area to a smooth cone & finally fashioning the end to look like the original valve Conbraco shaft & cut some usable threads in it for the handle & nut.

I took the bottom connector off the valve, that modulates just fine, and ran ~2 foot extension each way. On the one going back I added a brass T, 3/4 barb. On that I have a 6 " hose & hose- GH pair to allow flushing & testing for shutoff of the new valve as I may need to mark the on / handle positions on the plastic fire wall cover. Note the taper is greased w/ pressure applied from the 2 hole strap sealing the pass through rod.

All for now, hot today I must fini the fan sw, just a spdt toggle on the fire wall hot , common going to the fan & engine or aux on the switched terms. This dovetales well w/ the manual vent. I have another dash sw w/ a 15 min time out to utilize
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Last edited by skwoodwiva; 06-13-2019 at 02:04 AM.
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Old 06-13-2019, 12:08 AM   #2
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Default Re: Manuanl override: 1)intake actuator-fresh/recirc 2)heat shutoff 3)aux/engine fan

Fan belt rock gard.
Pics for heat shutoff valve.

1/2 " next size longer than close brass or SS nipples work fine instead of 3/4 barbs. Screw on or off!
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File Type: jpg 20190503_094604.jpg (125.6 KB, 68 views)
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Old 06-13-2019, 12:16 AM   #3
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Default Re: Manuanl override: 1)intake actuator-fresh/recirc 2)heat shutoff 3)aux/engine fan

This is very handy.
Harbor freight

And finally the fan switch.
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Last edited by skwoodwiva; 06-13-2019 at 02:10 AM.
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Old 06-16-2019, 04:32 PM   #4
Nautamaran
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Default Re: Manuanl override: 1)intake actuator-fresh/recirc 2)heat shutoff 3)aux/engine fan

It’s not clear from your photo how you plumbed this valve, but I have a concern...

The flow through the heating loop cools the engine’s air intake manifold and the EGR valve.
That flow MUST be maintained or you risk the EGR and manifold overheating.

The heater core can be bypassed by diverting the flow back to the block, but stopping the flow puts the intake manifold, EGR, and the boost heater at risk.

-dave
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Old 06-17-2019, 03:54 PM   #5
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Default Re: Manuanl override: 1)intake actuator-fresh/recirc 2)heat shutoff 3)aux/engine fan

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nautamaran View Post
It’s not clear from your photo how you plumbed this valve, but I have a concern...

The flow through the heating loop cools the engine’s air intake manifold and the EGR valve.
That flow MUST be maintained or you risk the EGR and manifold overheating.

The heater core can be bypassed by diverting the flow back to the block, but stopping the flow puts the intake manifold, EGR, and the boost heater at risk.

-dave
Thanks checking.
But I did choose the unbranched/return line to the 2-way stock valve.

I also tracked the EGR outlet line going to the circulation pump and it tracked w/ the coolant temp in all configurations.

Aqua's pic, the latter, shows the correct translation of the stock valve, the bottom inlet, which is the branch I modded, is all heater return.
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File Type: jpg coolant.jpg (27.1 KB, 45 views)
File Type: jpg coolantflow.mod.jpg (55.8 KB, 46 views)
File Type: jpg 20190617_083618.jpg (69.2 KB, 46 views)
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Old 06-17-2019, 05:15 PM   #6
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Default Re: Manuanl override: 1)intake actuator-fresh/recirc 2)heat shutoff 3)aux/engine fan

I read that fine photo essay, and could only think:

CatFlapped.jpg

--dick
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http://diysprinter.co.uk/reference <-- lots of service documentation, Thanks to Jens Moller and Arnie_Oli
((as always: this post may go through a couple of post-posting edits... so maybe give it ten minutes before commenting))
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Old 06-17-2019, 05:38 PM   #7
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Default Re: Manuanl override: 1)intake actuator-fresh/recirc 2)heat shutoff 3)aux/engine fan

I have used De-oxit red for 6 years on anything w/ electron flow. As the best application example, many high current disconnects can be made serviceable with this product.
I am treating all contacts & connections
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Old 06-25-2019, 03:17 PM   #8
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Default Re: Manuanl override: 1)intake actuator-fresh/recirc 2)heat shutoff 3)aux/engine fan

Ok, folks it all works now, I had to do several switch ins & outs of ATC wires to get the fan to switch to Aux power w/ the key off. I chose to sw the ATC unit rather than just the hi-only fan. But before I post the details I am doing the 2nd phase, adding the Espar to the aux power too!

What maintenance might I need to do on it?
I do run it w/ all cold starts already. I figure if I let it run to full warmup it is self cleaning.
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Last edited by skwoodwiva; 06-25-2019 at 06:38 PM.
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Old 06-28-2019, 02:49 PM   #9
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Default Re: Manuanl override: 1)intake actuator-fresh/recirc 2)heat shutoff 3)aux/engine fan

I’ve had to clean crumbs of dirt and salt from around the edges of the plastic turbine dome to free the Espar fan. Running it up to full temperature seems to keep the internals from sooting up, though overheating can be an issue if coolant flow is interrupted.

WRT your added heater valve, you appear to be ignoring the risk of the cycle/shutoff valve also closing. If you block the heater return (blue arrow from “3”) while the 3-way cycle/shutoff valve (“5”) is in the ‘heat on’ position, then there will be zero flow through the “no heat” bypass circuit either (pink arrow below “3”), and no EGR or Espar circulation.

You can prevent the cycle valve moving to the “heat on” position by energizing the valve with a constant 12 volt supply to keep it in the “no heat” position 100% of the time. That would be a MUCH simpler solution to end the short puffs of heat produced when the ATC occasionally cycles the valve to the “heat on” position.

AP’s sketch shows a winter bypass line (yellow) intended to speed cabin heating by preventing coolant from circulating through the cold engine block when the engine is NOT running. The yellow line also bypasses the EGR, so the yellow bypass cannot be open when the engine is running or the EGR will overheat.

-dave

Last edited by Nautamaran; 06-28-2019 at 03:52 PM.
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Old 06-28-2019, 03:43 PM   #10
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Default Re: Manuanl override: 1)intake actuator-fresh/recirc 2)heat shutoff 3)aux/engine fan

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nautamaran View Post
I’ve had to clean crumbs of dirt and salt from around the edges of the plastic turbine dome to free the Espar fan.

WRT your heater valve, if you block the heater return (blue arrow from “3”) while the 3-way cycle/shutoff valve (“5”) is in the ‘heat on’ position, then there will be zero flow through the coolant pump “2” and no EGR circulation. You can prevent the cycle valve closing by energizing it with a constant 12 volt supply to keep it in the “no heat” position 100% of the time.

-dave
Thanks, but I new that. BUT what I am not sure is if w/ GDE & the zero duty cycle status of the EGR will that blocked position ever be a problem or even could it be beneficial once coolant temp is reached, this includes times when espar is not needed?
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