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Old 07-09-2019, 06:14 PM   #61
Aqua Puttana
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Default Re: Window Regulator Fix

A compilation from two separate threads.

Bending the Arm and Lubrication.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cacaw View Post
...
Edit: got it done with a small zip tie around the plastic piece that broke. But after bending the arm, the zip tie is superfluous - the arm is now pressing tightly into the track on its own accord and there's no way it's going to come out of the track.
If not bent in enough apparently a slammed door can knock it loose.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmadeintheshade@gmail.com View Post
I bought the replacements and realized I needed to drill out the remaining broken part in the actuator arm. Forgive the lack of accurate terminology. Time was short, so I slightly bent to arm enough to keep it in the track and with a little lithium grease, away I went.

The only time it has popped out was when a mechanic slammed the door. That was a one time lesson. These doors do not have to ever be slammed shut. If I ever feel so inclined, I will drill out the offending piece and install the Ebay piece. Bouncing around Baja last winter did not affect this temporary fix. Only a careless mechanic has caused me to go back in there and push it back into place.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ohlsonmh View Post
After reading a lot of things here & on Youtube, we just bent the arm toward the outside of the door - it's pretty springy so we put a block of wood behind it & then used a pipe-wrench for leverage and bent it so that it holds the stud in the window-bottom track where the broken plastic slide used to be. The window rides up & down on the stud, rather than a 'fancy' slide.

Works great. No cost. Hardest part was getting the door panel back on.

-Oly
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aqua Puttana View Post
Lubriplate is an excellent choice.

I used regular old *modern* wheel bearing grease to lube the 2004 and 2006 tracks. In my experience modern wheel bearing greases do not dry out or harden.

If the tracks are periodically lubed, I see no reason that the bend the arm trick and using the metal button only won't be good. The T1N's are old. A greased metal button as a slide will outlast the service life of an old T1N.

Lubing the tracks isn't difficult.

Lube Grease Window Track and Parts
https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=75849

vic
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Last edited by Aqua Puttana; 07-11-2019 at 02:11 AM.
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Old 07-10-2019, 08:44 PM   #62
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Default Re: Window Regulator Fix

Quote:
Originally Posted by syncro_G View Post
... spending a bunch of time making a part [...]decided to have a go at it [...]
(I attached pictures but not sure how to make them display in line)

I started with a scrap of 1/2" HDPE panel.
Trimmed it to width (roughly 16mm) on my table saw

Then setting up my router table with a 1/8" cove bit and a couple different guide bushing, I was able to create a 1/4" bull nose profile. effectively making a "T" shape where the wings of the "T" are half round. I made enough "stock" to make three sliders (in case I make mistakes along the way)[...]
I chose a 10-24 shoulder bolt (machinist grade) that happened to be in my parts bucket.
[...]
Cleaned out the track, bolted everything up, used medium loctite and re-greased the track. works great!
That's great work and great imagery! My first thoughts were, "Why didn't I think of that?" and, "Wish I had a router." Innovative and resourceful approach. My only critique is to use a nyloc nut (nylon insert lock nut); especially a pivot point like this.

I notice the spring washer you used, but during my build I researched lock nuts and lock washers. I can't find the article, but it boiled down to only two reliable means of securing
threaded connections; nylon-insert lock nuts (nyloc), and castellated nuts (castle). They compared data from everything you can think of; nylon washers, serrated washers, flange/serrated nuts, spring washers, split washers. Data included initial breaking torque, vibration resistance, holding torque (after breaking), and a few more I think. One thing they found was many lock washers tended to actually reduce the breaking force, or, basically, lubricate the process; whereas a naked nut (no washer) may have the same initial breaking force as a nut with a washer, but the naked nut would require more spin to truly loosen; the washered nut would be free almost immediately. That's just one example, I'm not going to drag on further on this thread; just know that similar disappointing results came from the other methods. Nyloc and castle nuts stood at the top.

Anyhow, don't let my two cents detract from the fact that your solution is superior from everything I've seen, along with good craftsmanship. Mine is still holding, but has popped out the track once; the nylon washer was deformed/curved from stress, but still intact. Since then I make sure to tap the roll-down button once after rolling up the windows to relieve pressure. You may notice, when you roll the window up until full stop, the top edge of the black window trim bends. Maybe this amount of tightness was intentionally engineered, or the motor endswitch needs calibrating; don't know, but it does it on both sides.

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Old 07-10-2019, 09:48 PM   #63
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Default Re: Window Regulator Fix

Here are some pix from my recent repair. I chickened out and ordered the brass part off ebay. Worked perfectly. Semi-minor wallet flush. Expediency.


IMG_20190628_105402.jpg

IMG_20190628_105656.jpg

IMG_20190628_105853.jpg

IMG_20190628_113314.jpg

IMG_20190628_113512.jpg
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