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Old 07-09-2019, 07:14 PM   #61
Aqua Puttana
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Default Re: Window Regulator Fix

A compilation from two separate threads.

Bending the Arm and Lubrication.

Originally Posted by cacaw View Post
Edit: got it done with a small zip tie around the plastic piece that broke. But after bending the arm, the zip tie is superfluous - the arm is now pressing tightly into the track on its own accord and there's no way it's going to come out of the track.
If not bent in enough apparently a slammed door can knock it loose.

Originally Posted by jcmadeintheshade@gmail.com View Post
I bought the replacements and realized I needed to drill out the remaining broken part in the actuator arm. Forgive the lack of accurate terminology. Time was short, so I slightly bent to arm enough to keep it in the track and with a little lithium grease, away I went.

The only time it has popped out was when a mechanic slammed the door. That was a one time lesson. These doors do not have to ever be slammed shut. If I ever feel so inclined, I will drill out the offending piece and install the Ebay piece. Bouncing around Baja last winter did not affect this temporary fix. Only a careless mechanic has caused me to go back in there and push it back into place.
Originally Posted by ohlsonmh View Post
After reading a lot of things here & on Youtube, we just bent the arm toward the outside of the door - it's pretty springy so we put a block of wood behind it & then used a pipe-wrench for leverage and bent it so that it holds the stud in the window-bottom track where the broken plastic slide used to be. The window rides up & down on the stud, rather than a 'fancy' slide.

Works great. No cost. Hardest part was getting the door panel back on.

Originally Posted by Aqua Puttana View Post
Lubriplate is an excellent choice.

I used regular old *modern* wheel bearing grease to lube the 2004 and 2006 tracks. In my experience modern wheel bearing greases do not dry out or harden.

If the tracks are periodically lubed, I see no reason that the bend the arm trick and using the metal button only won't be good. The T1N's are old. A greased metal button as a slide will outlast the service life of an old T1N.

Lubing the tracks isn't difficult.

Lube Grease Window Track and Parts

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Last edited by Aqua Puttana; 07-11-2019 at 03:11 AM.
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Old 07-10-2019, 09:44 PM   #62
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Default Re: Window Regulator Fix

Originally Posted by syncro_G View Post
... spending a bunch of time making a part [...]decided to have a go at it [...]
(I attached pictures but not sure how to make them display in line)

I started with a scrap of 1/2" HDPE panel.
Trimmed it to width (roughly 16mm) on my table saw

Then setting up my router table with a 1/8" cove bit and a couple different guide bushing, I was able to create a 1/4" bull nose profile. effectively making a "T" shape where the wings of the "T" are half round. I made enough "stock" to make three sliders (in case I make mistakes along the way)[...]
I chose a 10-24 shoulder bolt (machinist grade) that happened to be in my parts bucket.
Cleaned out the track, bolted everything up, used medium loctite and re-greased the track. works great!
That's great work and great imagery! My first thoughts were, "Why didn't I think of that?" and, "Wish I had a router." Innovative and resourceful approach. My only critique is to use a nyloc nut (nylon insert lock nut); especially a pivot point like this.

I notice the spring washer you used, but during my build I researched lock nuts and lock washers. I can't find the article, but it boiled down to only two reliable means of securing
threaded connections; nylon-insert lock nuts (nyloc), and castellated nuts (castle). They compared data from everything you can think of; nylon washers, serrated washers, flange/serrated nuts, spring washers, split washers. Data included initial breaking torque, vibration resistance, holding torque (after breaking), and a few more I think. One thing they found was many lock washers tended to actually reduce the breaking force, or, basically, lubricate the process; whereas a naked nut (no washer) may have the same initial breaking force as a nut with a washer, but the naked nut would require more spin to truly loosen; the washered nut would be free almost immediately. That's just one example, I'm not going to drag on further on this thread; just know that similar disappointing results came from the other methods. Nyloc and castle nuts stood at the top.

Anyhow, don't let my two cents detract from the fact that your solution is superior from everything I've seen, along with good craftsmanship. Mine is still holding, but has popped out the track once; the nylon washer was deformed/curved from stress, but still intact. Since then I make sure to tap the roll-down button once after rolling up the windows to relieve pressure. You may notice, when you roll the window up until full stop, the top edge of the black window trim bends. Maybe this amount of tightness was intentionally engineered, or the motor endswitch needs calibrating; don't know, but it does it on both sides.

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Old 07-10-2019, 10:48 PM   #63
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Default Re: Window Regulator Fix

Here are some pix from my recent repair. I chickened out and ordered the brass part off ebay. Worked perfectly. Semi-minor wallet flush. Expediency.





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Old 09-01-2019, 07:54 AM   #64
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Default Re: Window Regulator Fix

My window fell into the door the other day. I panicked for a second and called the Mercedes dealership, but hung up before Service even picked up. Then I searched YouTube and found a fantastic video on how to open up the door:

It was as easy as it looks.

The problem was, of course, that stupid little plastic slide had broken in two. At first I just put the metal bit into the track and it worked for a day or two, but it fell out again, so I looked online for replacement parts. $50 dollars(!) for a brass replacement that requires you to Dremel out the old metal rivet and use their provided bolt.

I decided to fashion my own plastic slider. Being the nerd that I am, I modeled one in Fusion 360 (free for individuals), and then I 3D printed it at my local Makerspace ($50/month). Ignoring the makerspace membership, the total cost was maybe a penny worth of PLA plastic ($20 for 1 kg, but I already had a spool of it.)

It took me a couple tries to get it right, but here's the model I ended up with:

It had to be a two part design because there's no way to remove and then reuse the riveted metal pin. I put little tabs and slots to help keep it together during assembly. They aren't strictly required. I had to shave the tabs down a bit to make them fit into the slots, even though I had already modeled them to be a little bit narrower than the slots. Extruded 3D printing is not exact.

The printed part:

I had to remove the entire window lowering assembly from the door because I had to put the part on the metal pin and then slide it into the channel from the side. I made sure the arm was in an accessible position first, roughly horizontal.

Closeup of the part attached to the metal pin:

At this point I realized that the collar which I modeled to go around the pin was almost too tall. It was a squeeze. It didn't want to close 100% unless I was constantly applying pressure. I figured it would be ok, so I pressed on.

It was a pain in the butt to hold the arm, the glass, and get the plastic slider into the channel all at once, but I managed! It would have been much easier to do this with a friend, but I was doing it at midnight, alone.

It works like a charm! At this point I lowered the window regulator assembly and the glass with it, and I bolted it back on.

Now I need to go buy some grease and clean and re-lubricate the channel. The old grease is really thick and kind of dry. It's a 2006 Sprinter.

For just a penny each, I can print as many of these as I'd like as spares.

I noticed that the original slider had cracked on one side some time ago. The crack was very dirty and full of grease. The second crack that split it into two happened recently and the break was clean. So who knows, maybe the passenger side one is already half broken, too. I think I'll take a look and maybe replace it, as well.

I have no idea how long this PLA slider will last. It's a biodegradable plastic. I was going to use ABS plastic, but the printer was having issues getting up to the required temperature. Maybe tomorrow I'll try again with a different unit and start this process all over again with an ABS part just to be sure my replacement is as durable as possible.

I'll probably post my model to Thingiverse for anyone to download. When I do, I'll post a link here.

Last edited by Lamberton; 09-01-2019 at 08:02 AM.
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Old 09-01-2019, 08:31 PM   #65
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Default Re: Window Regulator Fix

Cute... what holds the two halves together? (Hmmm... perhaps it's running in a captive channel?)

If not, I'd be temped to put a thru-hole in each of the "wings" (and tabs) for a headless set-screw (or two) running vertically

nice work
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Old 09-02-2019, 07:57 AM   #66
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Default Re: Window Regulator Fix

Originally Posted by autostaretx View Post
what holds the two halves together? (Hmmm... perhaps it's running in a captive channel?)
Yes, I suppose that's what you'd call it. Once installed, it's impossible for them to separate. That's why I had to slide it in from the side.
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