T1N Harmonic Balancer Failure

[bad_assr]

Originally Posted by skill3

I removed the fan so I could take advantage off the 3 foot long 3/4" torque wrench. I needed the working room from the top. Using a torque wrench that long from the bottom was very awkward and limited.

I drove my van up on ramps to allow an extra bit of clearance from underneath. I had plenty of clearance with my 32" 1/2 drive torque wrench. It's actually easier to get the +90deg from underneath. You can use one of the wheels for leverage with your foot. I used a framing square, marked the 90deg on the pulley and made the turn in one clean pull. start the 90deg mark as high on the pulley as you can get your ratchet to go as a starting point.

[Sgt Ret]

Do you have to change the HB and the key and bolt as a set or can you use the old key?

[bad_assr]

I don't think you can get the key out. It should stay in place on the crankshaft. You definately want to replace the bolt as it is torque to yield and shouldn't be reused. It is also recommended to replace the front crankshaft seal while you have the HB out. It is very simple to do.

[marquimarl]

I believe you should have replaced the key while it was apart as it has been shown to be the weakest link.
The Bolt needs to be replaced also as it is a stretch bolt.

For preventive maintenance.
I am replacing the Water Pump, Two Idler Pulleys along with the Belt Tensioner and Spring.
I am also replacing all of the rubber hoses.
I would like to know....
Should I replace the Timing belt Tensioner also while it is apart?

The H.B. I am replacing was looking close to new and is an OEM H.B..
The Van also shows other signs that the HB was replaced.

Hopefully I will be getting an upgraded key and H.B. if there is such a thing.
The parts would have arrived by now but they were shipped to northern Nevada by mistake.

[skill3]

Originally Posted by Sgt Ret

Do you have to change the HB and the key and bolt as a set or can you use the old key?

You can use the old key. You do not want to remove it unless it is damaged. I replaced the seal, HB, bolt, and washer. I bought all of those items from Berry Dodge. Parts total with shipping was $315.16.

[plumber1]

I changed the balancer and front crank seal on my 04 3500 today. The rubber had completely failed and the outer ring was getting ready to come loose and make a big expensive mess of the front of my engine. I found that 3- 1 1/4" flat washers ($2.00 each) and the old (or new) balancer bolt make nice seal installers, and they dont cost way too much money as most of the special tools to work on these incredible vehicles do. It is not self centering so you have to guide the washers onto the snout of the crank but works nicely and easily after that. The bolt should turn easily and the seal should press in easily. DO NOT FORCE IT AND MAKE SURE THE seal starts in the hole in the front cover and the first two washers are not pinched against the end of the crank prior to using the bolt and washer to press the seal in place. I used a large flat screw driver with the flat part of the blade resting (not scraping to cause damage) against the crank snout, a small block of wood as a fulcrum to protect the front cover and oil pan lip, pried gently on both sides of the crank (180 degrees) from each spot and one time a little harder and the seal popped right out. The puller I used to pull the balancer I have had for years. Something like it should be available at your local auto parts store. It has 3 legs and a pushrod looking piece that bottoms out in the bolt hole on the puller and crank. The removable legs it has were a big help to get it in place quickly. I am not going to say what i used to hold the crank but it was not the MB or miller tool which would have been easier to use and probably safer than my method. I am attaching photos of the puller i used for the balancer and seal remover and installer. Auto Zone had the front seal in stock at their hub store near me. I used the National/ Timkin seal 710289 ($9 and change) and got a Dorman balancer from Napa next day for $230. I had to go to a local dodge dealer to get the new bolt, it was $12.99 (next day) where freightliner wanted $18.99(next day). I used a torque wrench to gain the initial torque spec and a breaker bar with a 3' or so piece of pipe to get my 90 degree final. Hope this helps someone out there. I hate paying out the nose for tools and parts just because they are "$pecial". I also enjoy the challenge of making tools to do jobs that require them. Here are some pics that may help

[Coast2Coast]

Is a Mercedes Sprinter Dealer capable of doing this job with all the right tools and knowledge? As much as I'd like to do this on my own I don't have the tools and wouldn't want to screw anything up. I got a quote for $290 which seems reasonable for labor.

[Turbo John]

Originally Posted by Aqua Puttana

On a positive note, the spokes look great. No sign of fracture.

Thanks for taking the time to snap the pictures and post them. vic

So Vic.....You have an 04 I believe? Have you replaced the HB and if so when?... and if not how many miles do you have on your 04?

[cobyreid]

A little pre-road trip knuckle busting....

Replacing cam shaft pulley (harmonic balancer) and water pump... add a little salt in the wounds...just had the front of the van torn apart replacing the radiator a month ago.... but I think I caught the harmonic balancer in the knick of time... was about to explode! The outer ring was completely separated from the inner pulley...

[cobyreid]

Originally Posted by hein

You are a man of many talents.
Would it be prudent to replace the tensioner?

I would highly recommend replacing the idler pulleys and tensioner whilst in the heart of the beast...I however, being antsy to roll on a road trip and not having the parts... went with the aint broke don't fix it mentality.... I am sure I will learn to regret this decision down the road

Originally Posted by pfflyer

How hard and how long did it take to remove the front end? I have seen several in that state at Freightliner but not by diyer.

There is nothing particularly hard about tearing the front end off a sprinter.. i think the hardest part is just committing to remove everything in your way to get to the part you are after... And having the proper tools... fly wheel lock, puller, huge cheater bar and massive torque wrench for pulling the harmonic balancer... for example.

Took most of one Saturday's daylight hours in October in my outdoor shop... to replace water pump and crank shaft pulley, and reassemble ... could have thrown in a new radiator, tensioner, pulleys in the same amount of time. I had the advantage of just doing 50% of this job a month ago... replacing the radiator. Unfortunately... I can field strip the front end to the fan in about an hour...