Question - Building Cabinets from Aluminum Angle and rivets?

143paul

Member
Has anyone tried building cabinets from aluminum angle?

I have seen the write-ups on the 80/20 and other similar extruded shapes. The 6061-T6 aluminum angle is substantially less expensive.

I don't have the skills to weld, so I was planning to use blind rivets.

My goals are to decrease costs and free up some extra space compared to the bulky 80/20 full 1.5" square profile. Also I expect that the finished product will be stronger than a plywood construction.

Thanks for any thoughts you all have on this topic.
 

monoloco

Member
As a professional cabinet maker, it's hard for me to see any benefits of using expensive aluminum in constructing cabinets, over building them from quality plywood using proper fasteners and quality adhesives. I have never understood any actual advantages of using 80/20 in van conversion cabinets, it just seems like a waste of money to me.
 

143paul

Member
Based on some basic calculations, the aluminum frame should be lighter than the same sized structure built from 3/4 plywood...

We will see when its done if that holds true.

Thanks for your input.
 

220629

Well-known member
... I have never understood any actual advantages of using 80/20 in van conversion cabinets, it just seems like a waste of money to me.
I think the ability to construct a strong frame and tack on/insert panels has some advantage for a DIY type who lacks cabinet making experience and tools.

It is expensive though.

Back to topic.

Aluminum angle can be used. It ain't necessarily cheap either. When properly selected and installed, pop rivets can provide needed strength.

During design/assembly always keep in mind the possible stresses/force during a crash. You don't want your add-ons coming forward to greet you during a crash.

:cheers: vic
 

GSWatson

2013 144
I’m in favor of wood, myself (get yourself a Kreg pocket screw kit) but can see the use of aluminum angle. Though I would use self tapping screws, or bolts and nylocks, instead of rivets. I think they might work loose under vibration and other stresses, and then you have to drill them out and re-do.

And what are you going to use for the sides? Or will they be all aluminum? That would be spendy... and cold.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

143paul

Member
Sorry - I misread your question. I am planning on an 1/8" wood skin - maybe fabric covered (my wife is designing the look) I am building a structure for her to add to. Same with drawers. So the look should still be wood.
 

SantiagoPM

2018 Promaster 159 gas
Hi Paul,

I am currently working on my Promaster build and am a proficient wood working hobbyist.
Originally intended to use 80/20, visited a supplier and purchased same stock and connectors to experiment. All good stuff.

Like you, decided to roll my own and cover with lightweight wood surfacing. Internal framing out of sight.

I would urge you to make sure your connections are solid so as to hold up in event of a crash as well as avoid generating joint noise.
I would also urge you to thermally isolate your framing where it connects to vans steel frame, I am using 1/4" fiberglass plate.
You will likely need wood supports for cabinet door hinges and drawer slide attachments.

Make sure you have extreme load bearing components of sufficient wall thickness and shape well bolted to van.
By extreme I mean wall and shape that will hold up the forces generated when van meets wall or oncoming jerk on wrong lane.

Unlike you, I decided on welding mild steel square and rectangular tubing. 80% welded joints, 20% bolted joints being careful not to weaken members that will need to hold back very high forces imposed on them should a crash occur. Reason for mechanically fastening some joints is to aid with replacing large appliances, have access for maintenance and have ability to temporarily free up space for day I need van to carry big stuff like sheets of plywood, potted plant, etc.

Good luck with your build, come back and share it with us.

Santiago
 

Top Bottom