changing glow plugs on a 2008 Sprinter V6

sajohnson

'09 View/08 3500 chassis
In my ongoing attempt to keep this thread going...

First of all the Bosch PDF that I linked to in post #39 DOES have torque specs. See page #39:
https://aa-boschap-uk.resource.bosc...tems_1/glow_plugs/pia_glow_plugs_en_58333.pdf

That PDF has everything you might want to know about glow plugs and related issues (history, designs, emissions, cold starting, troubleshooting). Lots of good info. It really is a good resource.

BTW -- one thing it says is that anti-seize is NOT necessary:

p.14: "The screw-in thread is coated and
rolled. This means that it cannot seize
in the cylinder head and easy unscrewing
is guaranteed. In addition, high mechanical strength is guaranteed."

p. 43: "Does the Duraterm® have to be greased during
assembly?
No. The nickel-plated, rolled thread does not corrode
and does not seize in the engine."

Bosch does not specifically advise against using anti-seize, so I probably still will, but that does affect the installation torque required.

The glow plugs arrived yesterday. The seller must have used a bicycle courier from Florida to Maryland.

Actually it was "First Class", which a friend who works for the USPS says was downgraded several years ago, but they kept the name. To be fair, the plugs did arrive within the claimed delivery window.

After reading about issues with counterfeit parts (in the PDF above) we went to Bosch's website and confirmed that the plugs are genuine.

The were about $70 for 6 each, here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A9Z1BZ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For now, I'm assuming the glow plug module is good, but I'd like to confirm that.

Does anyone know of a troubleshooting procedure for the module?

There are generic trouble codes that relate to the gp module that an ordinary scanner can read. More information here: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0670

So as long as my scanner (a decent Launch unit) cannot see any DTCs I'll leave well enough alone.
 

timotb

Member
Thanks caeppinger.

Here's some info from Beru: https://www.beruparts.eu/support/technical/car-parts-explained/all-about-glow-plug-control-unit.html.

I get a feeling the phrase "no user serviceable parts inside" applies.

It may not be possible, but what I'd be interested in finding out is the failure rate over time for the glow plug modules -- both the original, and the replacements.

As we all know, some OE parts are defective from the factory -- to the point where the mfr will issue a recall.

Others are very reliable and last the life of the vehicle.

Then there is the whole range in between.

Some parts are known to fail early -- like the Y-cable; charge air hose at the intercooler; or the carrier/support bearing for the driveshaft. Or the resonator on the T1N Sprinter. With those there are numerous posts by people who had experienced a failure.

With the OE glow plug module, it isn't clear to me that it's in the same "will fail" category. I'm not saying it isn't, just that IDK. I don't mind replacing it if there is a good chance it will fail, but it's not hard to access. IOW -- it's not the equivalent of some cars where it makes sense to replace a water pump when changing the timing belt. The module can be replaced at any time with very little additional effort.
As of this moment, I am going to change that module because I have had to replace 4 plugs in the last two years and have to wonder if the older module (which I have) is the culprit.
 

sprinter.motors

Active member
reminder... slow and steady using a deep 8 mm socket. Slowly loosening and tightening back a fourth....

I had a #3 glow plug fault so I changed all 3 on the right bank... I will do the 3 on the left back next month.
111 K miles on the engine... the #1 looked fairly new previous owner changed it.


step one remove the air filter... loosen hose clamp and remove to plugs.... just snaps on the rubber mounts...




step 2 remove heat sheild .... 6 torxs heads 1/4 turn last 2 in the back clip in...


step 3 remove intake hose to turbo... loosen hose clamp and you can leave air flow sensor connected and move aside...

step 4 remove oil fill filler neck... unbolt and turn 90 degs.
then remove sheild... no bolts... clips on.. wires are clipped on the rear....


step 5 then remove the rubber insulation... no bolts ... just snug fitted....



here are the glow plugs to the right of the fuel rail...
here you see the plug is right under the plier tip... using the pliers pull the small grey plugs... sorta like a spark plug connection...


clean the port thoroughly before you attempt removal!! lots of grit accumulates here... #3 shown here



number #1 shown here... remove little gadget to access...



I also replaced my controller.... shown here bolted to the front on the engine...





after completion disconnect battery to clear the check engine light!

cylinders--- arrow points to the front of the grill for reference...


As a Sprinter Mechanic, who works only on Sprinter Vans for over 5 years.
I would NOT RECOMMEND doing this job by yourself. :bash:
All these stories are nice because those guys were lucky to take them out from the first attempt. In many cases - it is not possible. People are braking glow plugs. Trying to take them out with extractor. Sometimes even trying to drill the out. The end - is very painful and pricy.
Worst case scenario - engine removal, engine heads removal.
And I've seen cases like that.
It just doesn't worth it. Trust me.

But if you still willing to take a risk, one method that I found is 100% working. If glow plug doesn't want to go out. DON'T break it, don't use impact gun! Pour brake fluid into spots were glow plugs are. And leave it for a few days, use van like normal, drive it. In a few days, ONLY when engine is hot try to move glow plug with the smallest ratchet, without making too much pressure.
It worked in most of the cases I had to deal with.

Good Luck!
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
Yes last year I removed no fewer than 32 broken glow plugs in just one week ,the majority in 906 Sprinters and Jeeps.
I even had to remove a piece of broken easy out from a #3 hole in a Jeep before I could even get the extractor kits with a "Dremel/EDM" attack on it.

At least so far in about 8 years I have yet to have to lift a head (or two) and then about 10 years ago I had to do just that! With a T1N van when the glow plug tip & bits fell into the pot!
Either way its not cheap,
My shop charge is $350 a hole for extraction.
Dennis


By the way DO NOT leave that filler neck open as in the picture . Stick the oil cap by itself in the hole or rag it.
If something falls in there undetected, its usually curtains!
Half a day with the undertaker aka dealer and $11000, for an engine after the T/chain lets go
D
 

barryt3

2008 Dodge NCV3
Hi all- I am hoping to do this job tomorrow. I have a 2008 NCV3 with 90k. Received the light for GP1 while on an extended trip and replaced my controller right away with a genuine dealer part to rule that out. For those wondering, the old controller and the new controller looked physically very different for me. The new one is smaller and looks more modern/professionally built. It hooked up to the same wires and mounting location just fine, it's just smaller in size.

I still have the GPI light after disconnecting the battery and clearing codes with a reader, so I guess it's time anyway to do the plugs? Is there a normal mileage these should have been done at? I am going to try to do at least #1 tomorrow since it seems to be easy to get at and if it works the light should shut off and rule out any other controller issues.

Reading the above I am now concerned about the plugs make/model. I understand that I have the lower voltage metal version of the plugs. I am really hoping to buy Bosch from a local parts store. Is there anyone out there who can give me the part number on the correct Bosch plug? Closest MB dealer is 4 hours and it looks like Auto Zone is the only store with Bosch in stock. They list Bosch part #0250403008 I would love some verification here. https://www.autozone.com/ignition-t...ow-plug/bosch-glow-plug-0250403008/432087_0_0
Thanks!
 

sajohnson

'09 View/08 3500 chassis
Hi all- I am hoping to do this job tomorrow. I have a 2008 NCV3 with 90k. Received the light for GP1 while on an extended trip and replaced my controller right away with a genuine dealer part to rule that out. For those wondering, the old controller and the new controller looked physically very different for me. The new one is smaller and looks more modern/professionally built. It hooked up to the same wires and mounting location just fine, it's just smaller in size.

I still have the GPI light after disconnecting the battery and clearing codes with a reader, so I guess it's time anyway to do the plugs? Is there a normal mileage these should have been done at? I am going to try to do at least #1 tomorrow since it seems to be easy to get at and if it works the light should shut off and rule out any other controller issues.

Reading the above I am now concerned about the plugs make/model. I understand that I have the lower voltage metal version of the plugs. I am really hoping to buy Bosch from a local parts store. Is there anyone out there who can give me the part number on the correct Bosch plug? Closest MB dealer is 4 hours and it looks like Auto Zone is the only store with Bosch in stock. They list Bosch part #0250403008 I would love some verification here. https://www.autozone.com/ignition-t...ow-plug/bosch-glow-plug-0250403008/432087_0_0
Thanks!
From post #21:

"Our 2008 uses steel plugs, so we purchased and installed Bosch OEM Glow Plugs # 0250403008 / 80050, a set of 6 was about $100 - these are Mopar 68102087AA, Bosch 0 250 403 008-4N3 - Mercedes Benz / Dodge / Freightliner #'s 0011595001 / 0011597101 equivalents.
 

barryt3

2008 Dodge NCV3
Cant believe I missed those part numbers in the thread. Thanks! I just did all 6 glow plugs in about 2 hours. Super grateful for all of the advice in this thread. One thing I didn’t see mentioned a bunch were the plastic connectors. It could be that I am doing this job outside in cold temps, but they were extremely brittle for me. I cracked 2 of them, and basically destroyed another two. After breaking the first one I saw on the internet there is a special tool:

PMD Products Angled Glow-Plug Connector Pliers Tool is Compatible with Repair and Replace of Mercedes Benz BMW VW Audi Diesel Engines https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0145S7BRC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_-X-YFbZ2SYBFC

For $10 I would have loved this. I called the dealer and ordered new plastic connector covers. They are $5 each from the dealer, and I see them cheaper online here https://www.idparts.com/glow-plug-c...Czx9YrVDS4KSPuX900pzB4r9fIlp11hxoCBekQAvD_BwE.

If you are doing this job several hours from the closest Mercedes dealer like me, I would recommend both. I bought the tool and will report Back on how useful it is. The van will be parked for the next few days waiting on the plastic connector pieces from FedEx.

As far as removing the plugs. I used 8mm deep socket with 1/4 drive and a small extension. I can’t see why anyone would use anything else, it’s a perfect fit. After reading everyone’s opinion, I decided to do this job with the engine warm. I sprayed WD 40 penetrating oil generously on each plug after removing the wire, and let them sit. WD 40 makes a can with a moldable hose that made it easier to get in there.

It also seems like there are lots of opinions on this, but I went with the back and forth method. The first turn I did on the plugs was 1/10 of a turn in the tighten direction. There was a noticeable “crack” or feeling of movement for every one of the plugs I removed. After that initial tighten, my plugs were so smooth I put the ratchet in reverse and was able to back them all out easily with the small 1/4 ratchet. I’m not sure if I got lucky? But it really could not have been smoother.

4 rags were needed to plug holes. 1 for the oil fill which Dennis has pointed out twice in this thread. I was shocked to see the giant gear in there with no screen or anything to protect once the fill neck was off. Cover that thing right away. Then I plugged two holes on the turbo, and and the other hole for the downspout that comes out of the resonator. Sorry homies first Diesel engine I have owned, no idea what that’s called? But it does have a good amount of oil grime on it which makes me think an o-ring is failing somewhere? I’ll do a search on that.
 

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sajohnson

'09 View/08 3500 chassis
Great write-up Barry!

It sounds like you had it pretty easy, all things considered, except for the connectors.

It's been a while since I replaced our glow plugs, but my recollection is that the connectors popped right off. From what I've read, there can be a wide variation in how difficult they are to remove. I was aware of the "special tool" but the ones that I saw were a lot more than $10, and in general I try to avoid special tools, so I decided to try needle nose pliers first. If the connectors had been stubborn I would have broken down and bought the 'special tool'. Of course, I had the luxury of not being in a hurry -- an owner who just wants to get the job done with the fewest delays would want to have the tool -- especially for just $10.

Like you I used an 8mm deep socket (but no extension). I recall reading that some people prefer a T-handle to minimize lateral force on the plugs, but IMO as long as one is careful, a ratchet works well. Also, the plugs are supposed to be torqued, which means using the equivalent of a ratchet anyway.

Nice photos!
 
Glow plugs unscrew, but won't come out.

I've read this whole thread, several other pages and YouTube videos, and none seem to address what I've run into...

GP1 was broken off from before I owned the van. Oh, well. GP2 and 3 loosened up with no great trouble, following the common recommendations, recently hot engine, and no lubricating. I turned them both at least 20 revolutions. About 8-10 threads are visible above the head, and the GP continues to turn smoothly without coming out any farther. However, I can not pull the plug out, and it does not feel loose to the touch.

I am pretty sure nothing broke or stripped. I have no idea what is retaining it in the hole at this point.

I ground down a pair of curve-jaw vice grips with a notch down the center, to better catch the groove at the top. I get an excellent grip for pulling (not turning)...but the plug still won't budge. I've only pulled by hand, with "strong" force. Maybe 20 pounds of pull. I have not gone to any sort of leverage or banging...and I don't expect I will.

I even started the engine, figuring the compression would blow the loosened plugs out. No joy. I had by then applied PBlaster, and I could see surprisingly small amounts of bubbles barely blowing by these two plugs.

Any advice? Should these come out easily once unscrewed? Do I simply need to apply more force? Soak and try again tomorrow?
 
Here is my vice grip hack. I used a Dremel with a tiny (1/4" ?) drum sander...but you could use a rat file, angle grinder, or whatever. Just be sure to hack a cheap tool...not your genuine ViceGrip® pliers!PXL_20201231_033303926.MP~2.jpgPXL_20201231_033428582~2.jpgPXL_20201231_033442870~2.jpg

BTW, a curve-jaw vice grip (modified or not) also works great for pulling the connector off the plug. I would NOT use a simple-pivot pliers (e.g. needle nose) for that...that's a great way to break them. Parallel-jaw or slip joint pliers that can grab the whole face are much safer. But I think vice grips are even better, as you can set the grip strength and twist and pull all you need to without few of crushing it. Curved jaw has the advantage of pulling from below, instead of on the flat top part.
 

smiller

2008 View J (2007 NCV3 3500)
Carbon and crap can build up on the shaft of the glow plug and that is probably what is preventing removal. I'm not sure what to do at this point to get the thing out with minimal damage but maybe Dennis or one of the other pros have a suggestion.
 
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smiller

2008 View J (2007 NCV3 3500)
Since no one else has replied, thinking about it some more I guess I would try soaking with solvent over time in hopes that this will dissolve the build-up enough to permit removal of the plug. I know you have already tried this, but it may take several applications over time to do the job.

One thing you definitely do not want to do is get frustrated and accidentally break the tip of the plug off, at that point it becomes a pretty nasty repair process. Time and patience is probably the key and eventually the solvent will (hopefully) do its job.
 
Thanks, @smiller . They've been soaking a day now. I'll spray them again, but it's too nasty outside to work today.

Do you think it's important to heat the engine for the rest of the extraction? The threads are disengaged at this point. I'd prefer to avoid running the old plugs in and out again to heat it up -- when they were coming out, they never bound up, but it was NOT a smooth turn, by any measure. Lots of cracking and popping as it turned. I don't want to put any more wear on the threads than required.

FWIW, I decided to follow the mfgr introductions and not use antisieze when assembling. These seems wrong to me...but they certainly know more than I do.
 

smiller

2008 View J (2007 NCV3 3500)
If heating the engine is problematic then I'd skip it, time should do the job. Slow and easy is the way to work with recalcitrant glow plugs.
 
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mkeller

Member
Thank you for taking the time to document this. I did have two plugs that spun freely but did not want to pull out. I put my socket extension in a drill and spun the glow plugs in reverse until they freed up enough to pull out. About 30 seconds. I sprayed Deep Creep before and during the process.
 

showkey

Well-known member
The only one thing to add:

The glow plug connector just pulls straight off straight up. No locking clips or clips to release. (Similar to an old style spark plug)
This connector info is not obvious to the first timer.

Recently did the left bank and new controller.
 

Ted939

2008 Dodge 2500 NCV3 144" high-roof 2WD OM642
reminder... slow and steady using a deep 8 mm socket. Slowly loosening and tightening back a fourth....

I had a #3 glow plug fault so I changed all 3 on the right bank... I will do the 3 on the left back next month.
111 K miles on the engine... the #1 looked fairly new previous owner changed it.


step one remove the air filter... loosen hose clamp and remove to plugs.... just snaps on the rubber mounts...




step 2 remove heat sheild .... 6 torxs heads 1/4 turn last 2 in the back clip in...


step 3 remove intake hose to turbo... loosen hose clamp and you can leave air flow sensor connected and move aside...

step 4 remove oil fill filler neck... unbolt and turn 90 degs.
then remove sheild... no bolts... clips on.. wires are clipped on the rear....


step 5 then remove the rubber insulation... no bolts ... just snug fitted....



here are the glow plugs to the right of the fuel rail...
here you see the plug is right under the plier tip... using the pliers pull the small grey plugs... sorta like a spark plug connection...


clean the port thoroughly before you attempt removal!! lots of grit accumulates here... #3 shown here



number #1 shown here... remove little gadget to access...



I also replaced my controller.... shown here bolted to the front on the engine...





after completion disconnect battery to clear the check engine light!

cylinders--- arrow points to the front of the grill for reference...

Great post, thanks! Why did you replace your controller? Did you know it to be faulty, or just preventative maintenance?
 

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