My 2008 conversion

cajundjb

New member
Re: Window installation pics

Very nice job. On my Sprinter I have the same type of awning side windows and love them. However the front side windows on the door and opposite side the back awning does not close into the body indent. Because the back awning of front side window doesn't close into the body opening it rattles, especially when the sliding door is closed. Have you had this problem? Do you have any ideas for solving? / cfpirate
Sorry about the delayed response. I've been evaluating this potential problem. It appears that the windows close properly and don't rattle except when closing the sliding door. That's the only time I've noticed any rattle related to the windows and its only on the rear slider window on the sliding door. This could develop into a bigger rattle later on though. IMO I don't hear any wind leaks during travel; at least not yet. :rolleyes:
 

cajundjb

New member
Please do post some pics of the curtain setup and details of the hardware you're using when you have them - our conversion folks want ~$200 per window for soft shades - that seems obscene to me, we'll do curtains if we can do a clean set-up.
Do you guys still want some pics of curtain set up? :shhh:
 

cajundjb

New member
Hi Mabel:

I have not taken possession of the Sprinter yet. This should happen Tuesday or Wednesday. I'm heading up to Cincinnati tomorrow. I'll answer your questions to the best of my ability.

1) I don't believe it will void the warranty because it doesn't alter the engine's performance like electronic chips, etc does.

2) The wiring doesn't go through an inverter initially. It goes from the engine component to the 'cab' component under the sofa in back of the driver's seat. Then we have the wiring going to the control panel. There is a Xantrex inverter in back of the shower connected to 2 batteries that was purchased separately. It recharges the 2 batteries also.

3) There is a switch on the control panel to turn the generator on for A/C, microwave oven, etc use. It can be turned off when not needed. It is my understanding that generator must be on for central A/C and microwave oven use.

4) I'm not sure about MPG yet but bear in mind that the idle control is required to run this generator on a Sprinter. This means that the engine needs to be running at a 'fast' idle which should increase fuel consumption. IMO

5) The generator will also charge the batteries through the inverter. I believe the engine alternator will pick up the slack when the generator is off and I'm heading down the road but I'm not 100% positive of that yet. I do only have a 100 amp alternator right now so this charging if any won't be as effective as the higher amp alternator. Also, the batteries should be charged through the inverter when connected through the 110 volt shore power cable

6) The kit costs about $4800 with installation, the idle control another $1300 so about $6100 total. One of the main reasons that I went this route was the smooth power besides saving space and limiting more holes in the sides and floor of the Sprinter for mounting. I've had some experience with a few diesel generators that would really bog down every time the A/C, etc would kick on and this is very bad for laptops, etc. There are methods of smoothing that rough power out somewhat but over time, it can still take its toll.

Hope this helps. :cheers:
Update on question # 1 - I brought the Sprinter in to 2 different dealerships for warranty work and neither voided my warranty due to MEPS generator installation. The only problem with warranty was with Kenwood dash radio install. It was not done by an installer on Dodge's 'approved installer' list so a patch was needed through WITEC (?) that cost me ~ $30.00. I believe this was a one time charge. :2cents:
 

cajundjb

New member
I really, really like the overhead bins here. I am not using vertical space well in my van, and always find myself covering every flat space in the van with "stuff", which always requires considerable repacking before I can drive anywhere. Some place to be able to set misc things in there would be really nice. It would also take care of covering the exposed curve between the walls and the ceiling. I wish I had installed some wooden supports between the ceiling ribs to help with attachment of something that could take some weight. The edges of my ceiling now don't have any real support. May be time to get out the drill and rivnut tool again.

Beautiful conversion.
While I do like the upper cubby holes in this conversion, I thought we'd do some doors on them too. That's okay though; I'll install some netting on the lower section of those cubby holes as needed. :thinking:
 

clark

New member
I just ordered windows from CRL and am curious how the windows in the rear doors are trimed out on the inside. Any close-ups pics you have of that would be great (side window trim too if you have.). What kind of blinds are you going with?
 

cajundjb

New member
I just ordered windows from CRL and am curious how the windows in the rear doors are trimed out on the inside. Any close-ups pics you have of that would be great (side window trim too if you have.). What kind of blinds are you going with?
Hi Clark. Instead of blinds, we went with some curtains with tracks and clips at the top and bottom in the rear as well as the side windows. Its dark here in Arkansas now. I'll take some pics in the morning and post them. :cheers:
 

cajundjb

New member
Because inquiring minds want to know... (LOL)

Hi Clark. Instead of blinds, we went with some curtains with tracks and clips at the top and bottom in the rear as well as the side windows. Its dark here in Arkansas now. I'll take some pics in the morning and post them. :cheers:
Curtain pics as requested.

This picture was taken 90 degrees out to try to capture more of the whole set up.
DSC00015 (Medium).JPG

DSC00016 (Medium).JPG

DSC00017 (Medium).JPG

Its hard to see those clips as attached to snaps and track but its the best I could do. Sorry.
DSC00018 (Medium).JPG

DSC00019 (Medium).JPG

These pics are of the back window curtains. The side windows don't have a bottom track. :rant:
 

cajundjb

New member
Curtain tie downs and clips

DSC00021 (Medium).JPG

DSC00020 (Medium).JPG

The writing on the clip bag reads:

Rec-Trak Accessories

Snap Guide

Carrier

3070-1 (?)

14 Pcs.

Recmar, Houston, TX

Hope this helps. If you need any other specifics, let me know. :thumbup:
 

coachconverter

New member
Hello all, I've kept my nose out of the convo so far, but thought I could lend a hand here. I did the conversion for Cajun and wanted to let you know that the curtain hardware was all bought from West Marine (westmarine.com). Very economical and easy to install.

The curtains themselves were all custom made and sewn from upholstery tweed material. Pricey stuff, but nice and heavy and should really block the light out.

On the window openings, we used a body-saw to cut out the openings and just followed the curves of the ribbing already in place. This of course goes for the vans without windows already. I will tell you though, these vans are made of very tough steel, I think between the three of us we went through about 20 blades, cutting out the openings.

Hope this helps.

Todd
MWCW
 

clark

New member
Thanks guys. Do you think you would be able/ or did you use the same hardware for the curtains on the sides that are longer? Do they block the light out good enough that it would be hard to see you have lights on inside (from the outside) during the night?

On the back window install. Was there a rubber gasket that goes around and covers the metal after the window hole was cut. I don't think the CRL windows have this but the OEM does. It looks from the picture that you may have something like this? Any tips on doing the side windows? I saw one at a dealership today with CRL all around and the install looked horrible. They were not a consistent distance from the body and were skewed. I'm hoping this was installer laziness.

Thanks, I'll check out WM

Clark
 

coachconverter

New member
Clark,

I looked at the CRL windows and actually started to buy them for this conversion (before it was destined to be Cajun's), but when I saw the install pics I quickly changed gears. To me, even when installed well, they just dont look natural.

The windows on Cajun's are the Creation (now Atwood owned) windows, I picked them up in Elkhart. You really would have to work hard at it to install these wrong. If you look at the inside of a Sprinter without windows you'll see the template for cutting out the window holes, in fact you use that template to guide your blade around the opening. After that, you'll just need a couple friends to help you align the three side windows evenly while tightening the crimp rings.

On the curtain tracks for longer windows, you just butt two tracks together. The "stops" are screwed in at the ends, wherever you need them. On this van, we left the curtains wider than the windows to overlap and help block light. This material is dark and very heavy.

Hope this helps some.

Todd
 
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Diamondsea

New member
Re curtains blocking light: Most large fabric stores sell a thin, light weigh, off white/creamy/or light tan colored, low cost, totally light proof material that is intended as a drapery liner or it can be used alone.
 

clark

New member
Thanks Todd. I'll post some photos when I get my CRLs in, they are still about a month out I think.

Clark
 

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