I Need Help Taking High Pressure Pump Apart

My 2005 Sprinter is dripping diesel from the front passenger side (USA passenger side) and I did some research and it looks like it's the high pressure fuel pump.

It started with a strong odour about a month ago, but I couldn't see any drips or evidence of anything wrong. In fact, my mileage increased from about 18 MPG to about 19 MPG, so I wasn't worried (but the hot weather finally kicked off here in Florida, and that could just be me not running the AC).

So, we finally got some cold mornings and I noticed a large 1ft diameter circle puddle under my van one morning after making a short run to the hardware store. I figured it was okay to drive home and by the time I got home the drip had stopped.

But the same problem has happened every morning since.

I popped the hood and see diesel and bubbles coming from the top of the pump now and then when it's running.

So, I went to this thread for pictures, but none are found:

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=215197

I saw a tech alert about these:

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14393

So I guess mine is the 647 high pump.

I emailed Dr. A for advice:

Do you have a step-by-step somewhere?

What tools are needed (for not only the pump, but whatever may be in the way)?

What new parts are needed? (I assume hose clamps are best used only once, etc.)

Do you have a service where I can order a rebuilt from you and then ship this old one back? I cannot really afford to take this van off the road for more than a few hours as it is a service vehicle.

Thanks for any help you can get to me.
This was the reply:

You can do this yourself. 3 small, male E10 Torx bolts hold the pump onto the engine.

The loose countersunk bolts causing your leak are on the backside and not accessible until you remove the pump, lay in upside down on your workbench, retighten, reinstall and your ready to go. Andy
Okay, so I guess it's much easier than what I figured. But I pop open the hood, and 1 bolt is pretty much under the fan. I see that a fuel line may need to be removed, And I see 2 hoses clamped to this. (Or maybe I'm looking at the wrong part.)

Can somebody please confirm that all I need to do is remove the 3 bolts and then I'll just have it in hand enough to take to my workbench and re-tighten? Or will I need to remove more than 3 bolts and need to replace clamps? And will the fan need to be removed? And if so, how is that done?

Thanks in advance.
 

220629

Well-known member
From Section 14-7 in my 2005 Sprinter manual. The manuals are available to download. Check the Database section of the forum for the links. Good luck. vic



REMOVAL
REMOVAL - HIGH PRESSURE PUMP
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM - WARNING)
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable.
(2) Remove viscous fan clutch (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
REMOVAL).
(3) Unplug electrical connector at high pressure
pump.
CAUTION: DO NOT slacken the threaded connection.
Use a wrench to counterhold at the threaded
connection when loosening and tightening the
union nut. DO NOT EXCEED tightening torque.
CAUTION: DO NOT crimp or bend fuel line. Capture
all fluids that flow out of connections.
NOTE: Using a marking pen, make a mark on the
outside fuel return line to easily identify proper
position during assembly.
(4) Unbolt bracket and pressure line at pressure
pump.
(5) Detach fuel supply and return flow line at high
pressure pump.
NOTE: Care must be taken not to drop the high
pressure pump driver and intermediate piece if
pump is being replaced.
(6) Remove bolts attaching high pressure pump
and remove pump.

Fig. 3 HIGH PRESSURE PUMP
1 - FUEL RETURN LINE
2 - FUEL LINE BRACKET
3 - HIGH PRESSURE PUMP
4 - O-RING
5 - PUMP DRIVE
6 - FUEL LINE BRACKET
7 - HIGH PRESSURE FUEL LINE FROM PUMP TO FUEL RAIL

EDIT:

INSTALLATION

INSTALLATION - HIGH PRESSURE PUMP
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM - WARNING)
CAUTION: Clean sealing surfaces with appropriate
solvents and replace all seals.
NOTE: Inspect then attach high pressure pump
driver and intermediate piece if pump is being
replaced. If wear is present at driver, replace the
intermediate gear.
(1) Position and secure the high pressure pump to
cylinder head (Fig. 5). Tighten bolts to 14 N·m (124
lbs. in.).
CAUTION: NEVER slacken the thread connection.
Use a wrench to counterhold at threaded connection
when slackening and tightening torque in order
to avoid also slackening the threaded connection
the next time.
CAUTION: DO NOT crimp or bend fuel line. Inspect
sealing cone at line; replace line if compression
exists.
NOTE: Care must be taken not to cross the fuel
return and supply lines during installation.
(2) Attach fuel flow supply and return lines (Fig.
5).
(3) Install bracket to high pressure pump (Fig. 5).
Tighten nut to 9N·m (80 lbs. in.).
CAUTION: NEVER slacken the thread connection.
Use a wrench to counterhold at threaded connection
when slackening and tightening torque in order
to avoid also slackening the threaded connection
the next time.
CAUTION: DO NOT crimp or bend fuel line. Inspect
sealing cone at line; replace line if compression
exists.
NOTE: Care must be taken not to cross the fuel
return and supply lines during installation.
(4) Attach high pressure fuel line to pump (Fig. 5).
Tighten to 22N·m (194 lbs.in.).
(5) Install viscous fan clutch (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
INSTALLATION).
(6) Connect negative battery cable.
(7) Refill coolant system with proper mixture to
correct level.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A
DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOU
HANDS NEAR PULLEYS, BELTS OR FAN. DO NOT
WEAR LOOSE CLOTHES.
(8) Start engine and inspect for leaks (Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM - WARNING)
 
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Thanks...

but... I cannot find that manual you speak about. I saw a post for a T1N Service Manual, but all the links were dead. I even tried doing a web search but nothing good turned up.

also... I'll assume those crimped rings need replacing. Do you have a part number for those? And, is there a special tool needed for them?
 

MillionMileSprinter

Millionmilesprinter.com
If Andy said you can do it yourself, that's good news. He sells rebuilt ones and I purchased one from him... after I tried to R&R my fuel pump with no success (mine was MUCH worse than yours).
Yes, you DO have to remove the fuel lines from the high pressure pump. 2 clear plastic ones on the passenger side and one metal on on the driver's side. No, there shouldn't be anything to re-crimp. Just reverse the tear apart to re-install, IIRC.
You should do your hands a favor and remove the fan also. IIRC, there are 3 or 4 allen head screws holding the fan onto the fan clutch assembly. You might even want to unbolt the radiator support (that's that big black steel piece that runs left-right above the radiator and attaches above each headlight). It will allow you to flex the radiator back a bit to get your hands into that tight space.
After you have removed the fuel lines, then you can remove three bolts that Andy was talking about. And THEN you can pull the pump out and tighten up the back.
*MAKE SURE* you note which fuel line goes in which hole when you remove the two from the passenger side. One comes FROM the low pressure pump (it feeds fuel INTO the high pressure pump) and the other one is the return line. So if you mix these up (which is possible to do), you won't be pumping any fuel to the pump and you will have to dissasemble a your fan and stuff to switch them back (ask me how I know!).
Sorry, I don't have pictures available, but I'm sure they are here on the forum somewhere. You can search for them or some kind soul who has the time may point you in the right direction.
All told, this is a few hours job and you will smell like diesel fuel, so be sure to wear old clothes and be parked in a place where a spill on the ground won't be a big deal (like your neighbor's white driveway!).
Good luck and be sure to post back to the forum. :thumbup:
 

cahaak

New member
Look for a post from me on viscous fan clutch removal. It is only a single 8mm / 5/16 allen head bolt. That will give you plent of room. You can also pull up the plastic fan shroud easily - may have to loosen a couple of clips to do that. Should give you plenty of access - sorry, I'm too lazy to look up my own thread on it.

Chris
 
Well, I took care of that problem this morning.

I removed the one bolt on the heat shield, removed both lights, the grille, the front end cross member, then the fan clutch (1 bolt). Undid the metal fuel line. Then unplugged 2 connections on the pump, undid the 3 bolts.

At that point, I could twist the unit enough to access the loose bolts inside. I didn't need to undo the hoses, so I did not. Cleaned the bolts, applied lock-tite, and reassembled.

This took 2.5 hours.

It was a cold morning, and when I got it back together the leaks were gone.


I only had deep sockets for the fan clutch, and in the disassembly/reassembly some of the metal fins on the radiator got bent. I wish I had a shorter socket for that one, but it's still fine I think.

I had a problem undoing one of the wiring connectors. It gave me a hard time and I snapped a plastic piece which flew into my eye. But I did get it and it still hold tight, so I guess it's still good.

When I got the pump loose, I noticed 2 bolts were completely undone, 2 were very loose, and 2 were acceptably snug. I undid all 6 and reinstalled with lock-tite. I did not disassemble the 2 halves. I maybe should have and then cleaned it up some, but I think my repair was adequate.

The metal fuel line may be leaking a drop of diesel at the threaded connection, I'm not sure. I cleaned it up better and I'll be keeping my eye on it. If it is, I'll just tighten it a bit more.

This was probably the most complicated repair I have had to make on my Sprinter, but it went fine.
 
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