Turbo Resonator Problem

autostaretx said:

The service manual kind'a hints that 20 psi boost is the upper limit, when it says:

(the "sever" damage is how it's spelled in the manual... that's a copy-and-paste)

But Vic's Training Manual postings speak of the (nearly) 45 psi here:

(i vaguely remember that one of the model-year changes was increasing the MAP sensor's range)
--dick

Click to expand...

Dick,
I also disagree with your suggestion here and in other posts suggesting 45 psi should be used for testing. The highest testing pressures I have seen recommended in the manuals is 30 psi gauge. 20 psi is another value suggested. That 45 number is just too high for any leak testing. We are not trying to perform pressure vessel certification tests, we are looking for leaks.

I did some hard driving yesterday in anticipation of replying to the 45 psi number. The highest pressures I saw on my direct connected manifold boost pressure mechanical gauge was 23 psi, maybe 25 psi. It was obvious that the turbo vane controller was kicking in to limit the max output of the turbo so the turbo probably has more capability, but it isn't used in normal operation.

I would hate to hear that someone blew a seam in their intercooler at 45 psi while testing for leaks. 15 - 20 psi is plenty of pressure to test for common leaks.

As I said earlier, all the service manuals I've seen warn against too a high a test pressure. My books you cite may be showing the max output possible from the turbo, or they may just be wrong. The books also say that the Glow Plug module fuses are 150 amp. That is completely wrong. 15.0 amp maybe...



FWIW. vic

I was not answering "how to test it", the original question (that i was trying to answer) was "how much pressure should i plan for in my repair".

But i certainly agree that my comments could easily be misinterpreted.
(and i may well have elsewhere said 'test to 45')

In the future i shall certainly try to be careful to say "test to 20 (but build it to handle 45)"

--dick

Re: Turbo Resonator Problem FIX WITH O-RING (PN#.)

Turbo Resonator O-ring from Factory is to small. This is a great tighter fit . NO AIR Lost. Add Permatex ultra grey RTV BEFORE NEW O-RING and after to make it side in easyer. Two different 568-327V=Temp range 250 deg and 568-327V= 500 deg. If my 250 deg fails i order the 500 deg's. This is not a metric O-ring form MB.
I HAD IT CHECK FOR SIZE. HOPE THIS HELP'S

Re: Turbo Resonator Problem FIX WITH O-RING (PN#.)

Two different 568-327V=Temp range 250 deg and 568-327V= 500 deg.

Click to expand...

Did you perhaps mean to say 568-327T (T, not V) for the higher-temperature part?

--dick

I know this is an old thread, but I have questions. My 2004 2500 started exhibiting these exact symptoms last week. Sudden loss of power on the highway slowed to 65mph, LHM and no power. Pull over and restart, and power comes back. I think I read all of the threads on the forum regarding this, and convinced myself it must be a bad resonator. Ordered the seamless doorman replacement, and it was delivered last evening. I went out to do the swap this morning only to find that the previous owner had already replaced the TR with the billet version.

Now I am very worried that this means a lot more money for a repair, and I am looking for what else could cause this issue. Any suggestions of where to start a new diagnosis, or simple tests to see what else may be the issue would be greatly appreciated.

There are a number of things that can cause sudden LHM. A boost leak is a very common one though.

Check all your intake hoses and connections for signs of oil. A boost leak will carry a small amount of oil and usually makes a mess around it. The hoses themselves can develop small holes which are only readily visible when inspected by hand. Taking the hoses off and flexing them by hand is sometimes needed.

Can you hear anything like an air leak? Mine would sound like a loud hissing when it got high enough boost, 6-8 lbs. iirc. Mine was the lower hose on the drivers side. You can feel down on the bottom of it, it was almost a 2" slice. I found it by pressurizing the system.

obie said:

Can you hear anything like an air leak? Mine would sound like a loud hissing when it got high enough boost, 6-8 lbs. iirc. Mine was the lower hose on the drivers side. You can feel down on the bottom of it, it was almost a 2" slice. I found it by pressurizing the system.

Click to expand...

How did you pressurize the system?

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?p=161278#post161278

I modified a little on the fittings, but this gave me the idea.

Check the top turbo charge hose as they hack a tendancy to split close to the intake side. I agree that taking the individual hoses off and doing a through visual inspection is the best way of detecting split hose.