2003 power cuts out before engine reaches temperature

I’ve searched for this one and not finding much so I’ll ask. This has been ongoing for months. Sometimes my 2003 will lose power and will be limited to about 2000rpm for several seconds. It only happens before the engine is up to temperature and it is accompanied by the clogged fuel filter light on the dash. The condition will clear after several seconds though the light stays until a restart. This problem NEVER happens once it is up to temperature.


I scanned it this morning after I got home and I have two codes.
P2007-1
P2007-2

These seem to go along with the fuel filter but this problem has persisted intermittently through two fuel filter changes.

Any ideas what might be causing low fuel pressure when the motor isn’t stone cold but isn’t up to 180+ degrees?




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Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
Interesting!

I was already thinking of a wiring fault and that seems to add to my theory!

Check your wiring harness all around the engine paying particular attention behind the fuel filter and anywhere it else it contacts any metal bracket, etc.

Keith.
 
Thanks again for your reply, Keith. I went out and checked the wiring harness and don't see any problems. I also fired up the engine and poked and prodded at what I believe is the fuel pressure sensor and couldn't get the clogged filter light to come on.

It seems to me its temperature related as it only happens when the engine is on its way to operating temperature and once its good and hot it won't do it again. Any theories on that side of things?
 
B

billintomahawk

Guest
What about the diverter valve on the fuel filter?

It has a temperature function, do you have any air bubbles in the clear line to the LP pump when you start the engine?

bill in tomahawk
 
Good call, Bill! Do you know what the temperature function is/how it works?

I actually have a new diverter in the spare parts bin, but haven't installed it yet. What are the chances I can replace it without blowing the prime and having to do the funnel of fuel trick to re-prime all the way up to the low pressure pump?
 
A little follow up on this one - though I'm not sure how helpful it is?

I replaced the T shaped diverter valve on top of the fuel filter with a new one from Europarts, but it leaked so much air it was just foam running through the clear lines. I pulled it and tried reinstalling it a few times with the same result.

I ended up going back to the original part thinking I would buy another and... haven't had a problem since. Its been weeks now and no problems with the original part. I guess I'd rather be lucky than good?

Matt
 
GAH! Its back!

Problem started happening again with the same low pressure code, so I ordered a new fuel filter and fuel return valve from Europarts and installed them.

The good news - This is the first time I've managed to get things air tight the first try on a fuel filter change - hooray!

The bad news - the problem persists. After driving a few minutes from a cold start it loses power and the rpms won't go over 2200rmps for several seconds followed by the clogged fuel filter light. Once up to temperature all runs great. I tested today by running the Espar 5d for 15 minutes before starting the van. When I started it the temp was already up to 180f and no problems. It seems to only happen when the motor is getting up to operating temperature (maybe between 110f and 140f.

What's next? Fuel pressure sensor?

Matt
 

220629

Well-known member
To my knowledge the fuel pressure sensor triggers the dash warning only. I don't think that it has any input or control over the engine operation.

I didn't review the thread.

Have you drawn a sample of the fuel or cut open any of the removed fuel filters for inspection? It might be possible that substandard/contaminated fuel is loading up the new filters prematurely.

vic
 
Thank you for weighing in AP and MWD.

Fuel and old fuel filters don't show evidence of badness.

Same OEM fuel filter each time from Europarts SD.
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
Hmm, the sensor could be going bad? I am not sure, but I think the OM612 has a low pressure switch/sensor. If so you could check what it reads (engine off) at warm and cold temps using a multimeter.
 
That’s what I’m thinking. I ordered a “Low Fuel Pressure Sensor 2002-2003” from Europarts. We’ll see what that does.


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Got the sensor in the mail today and put it in. First test drive it got up to temperature without the light coming on or any other symptoms. I'm not going to claim victory yet with just one successful test, but we'll see.
 
Just to chime in here, I'd been having somewhat similar problems, and when I figured out how to use my Autel 802 scanner, I also saw the P2007-1 and -2 codes. I also got the Fuel Pressure Sensor from Europarts SD. I changed the sensor in their parking lot (I live 18 miles away) and drove home with no clogged filter light or codes. So, that's a good fix for those codes, I guess.
Thanks.
Mike
 
Just to chime in here, I'd been having somewhat similar problems, and when I figured out how to use my Autel 802 scanner, I also saw the P2007-1 and -2 codes. I also got the Fuel Pressure Sensor from Europarts SD. I changed the sensor in their parking lot (I live 18 miles away) and drove home with no clogged filter light or codes. So, that's a good fix for those codes, I guess.
Thanks.
Mike
I've not had the problem since replacing the sensor. Here's hoping you have the same result.
 
B

billintomahawk

Guest
Great thread balancingact.
Nice to get some more info on the 612 fuel system and it quirks.
FWIW I tested my diverter valve by boiling it and then blowing through it hot and cold an noting how ir opens and closes. They can go defective as you found out when the temperature valve fails or the O-ring leaks.

I was always able to prime my system by filling the fuel filter and installing.

Takes a few cranking episodes to rest the starter but mine always started without doing anything special.

Where is the low pressure sensor located?
Is it on the front of the fuel rail, MB#05080349AA.

Looks like it takes an o-ring, MB#05080349AA.
Assume if the o-ring leaked you would have a fuel leak and a different issue.

bill
 

TomVan72

New member
I had a similar problem. Turns out that some of the fuel line O-rings were bad. When motor was cold and under acceleration air would be sucked into the system and cause a pause in power. Once the system was warmed up the old O-rings would expand and not suck air into the system. A few new O-rings and no problems. Van runs great!
 

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