turn signals not working

Please provide a concrete example of what you'd like to do?
(as in: topic, what section of the forum you'd like it to appear in (T1N? Scanners?))

Or critique the "scroll here, click here, click here" example of my previous post, so that we can tell where you'd getting lost

(instead of scrolling to reach the top-of-page, you can tap your keyboard's Home key)

If you're working from a cell phone, please say so.

--dick

I have the same problem. I brought my 2006 dodge sprinter in for a diagnostic--they replaced a relay and now I have to reset my relay twice a day. Should I get this soldered in or have the relay replaced?


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Laser said:

I have the same problem. I brought my 2006 dodge sprinter in for a diagnostic--they replaced a relay and now I have to reset my relay twice a day. Should I get this soldered in or have the relay replaced?


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Click to expand...

By "reset" do you mean R&R (remove/re-install) or wiggle?

If yes, there may be some info here.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=374375#post374375

vic

Aqua Puttana said:

By "reset" do you mean R&R (remove/re-install) or wiggle?



If yes, there may be some info here.



https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=374375#post374375



vic

Click to expand...

Hi Vic,

I press it a little with my finger until the signals work. I've been doing that since the mechanic replaced a relay. About twice a day! I was going to order a new relay when I get to the city and try that. Thanks again.


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The relay socket may be damaged, or its contacts spread enough to become "loose".
It could escalate to loose copper bars behind the fuse panel.
(the all-to-common fuse block #1 failure syndrome)

--dick

autostaretx said:

The relay socket may be damaged, or its contacts spread enough to become "loose".
It could escalate to loose copper bars behind the fuse panel.
(the all-to-common fuse block #1 failure syndrome)

--dick

Click to expand...

Ouch! It seems like it goes out when the van is not warmed up. Then it expands to hold the relay--maybe. It seems like it is pretty hot too and the backlight on the control panel flickers sometimes. Yikes! Maybe these symptoms are related. Thanks for the advise dick. I ordered a new fuse box!


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Aqua
How do you take out the FB#1? Im having a problem with my flashers, I replaced the relay , and It works for a couple seconds than stops... it may be this conection
Please explain how to take it out
thank you,
Lyn

From page 8w-97-3 in the 2006 service manual:

MB said:

REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
(2) Remove fuse block cover by rotating locking screw 90°.
(3) Remove the steering column cover. Refer to the Body section for the procedure.
(4) Unscrew fuse block connections and disconnect all electrical connectors from the fuse block.
(5) Remove the fuse block from the steering column.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the fuse block in the steering column.
(2) Install fuse block connections and connect all electrical connectors on the fuse block.
(3) Install the steering column cover. Refer to the Body section for the procedure.
(4) Install fuse block cover by rotating locking screw 90°.
(5) Connect the negative battery cable.
(6) Set time and radio stations.

Click to expand...

...Vic has posted a number of times about various ways of dealing with the possible loose "captured nut" that's embedded in the plastic.

--dick
p.s. service manual here: http://diysprinter.co.uk/reference/2006-VA-SM.pdf

thank you autostaretx

06' No turn signals, but have flashers. I pulled too many amps off the switched (terminal 15) builders block under the seat and blew the 15amp fuse. Replaced it and thought everything was as it should be. Drove van today and the turn signals arent working. Hazards are still functioning. All fuses good. No luck jiggling fuses to get anything to come on. All connections seem tight. Any help?

2006 service manual, wiring is section 8W: http://diysprinter.co.uk/reference/2006-VA-SM.pdf

Just for starters, Fuse 1 and Fuse 11 on fuse block 1 (under the steering wheel) are the two sides' parking light fuses.

Fuses 6 and 9 are involved with the turn signals (and hazards)

Pages 8w-52-2 and 8w50-5 cover the switch itself.

Since both sides aren't working, i'd look "upstream" (i.e. between battery and the switch)
The turn signal relay (on fuse block 1) is a prime suspect:
Item (1) in this drawing:



I *think* you can just swap the Turn Signal relay with the Wiper Relay to see if that's the issue.
However, since the hazards are working, that suggests the problem is elsewhere...

--dick

it took me almost 10 years of intermittent turn signals, occationally replacing the relay, to finally just replacing the fuse block on the steering column. Got it at EuropartsSD.
Totally fixed it , really wish I had done it sooner.

Autostarter, as I mentioned in my comment, 1 side IS working. The hazards/flashers are still working fine, which to me indicates another problem. The relays are all functioning perfectly, as are the turnsignals, under hazard power. No turn signals from the multselector switch though, under any circumstances. I saw someone ask, previously in this thread or another, if the flashers were still functioning. Im the only person ive read about where that is the case. Id like to know what that person knew, what dies hazard funtionality without manual operated signals mean???
Thanks
Dave

Dave,

I had a problem a few years ago when only one side of the turn signals would work but the hazards still operated on both sides and it was suggested to me that it was the relay shown above at fault. I couldn't understand how this could happen but swapped the turn signal relay with the wiper relay and sure enough my missing turn signals came back to life.

Have you tried swapping (or replacing) relays, if not may I suggest you do so before embarking on a wild goose chase.

Keith.

158wb said:

Autostarter, as I mentioned in my comment, 1 side IS working.

Click to expand...

???
Quoting your original posting:

158wb said:

06' No turn signals, but have flashers. I pulled too many amps off the switched (terminal 15) builders block under the seat and blew the 15amp fuse. Replaced it and thought everything was as it should be. Drove van today and the turn signals arent working. Hazards are still functioning. All fuses good. No luck jiggling fuses to get anything to come on. All connections seem tight. Any help?

Click to expand...

"No turn signals" says "both sides" to me.

Anyway ... if you look at the manual's schematic, the individual turn signal paths (from switch on column towards the bulbs) passes through the fuse block (probably as copper bars), which is why folks speak of replacing the fuse block itself.

If it really is (and has been) only one side lost, then it could be the contacts in the multi-function switch.

--dick

I think we are having a communication breakdown. I miss took what you wrote on your first comment. I took sides to mean legs of the system, i.e. hazards and turn sugnals. To be clear, all of my lights including my turn signals work correctly with the hazards activated. I have no functionality through the multi selector switch. If thats what you call the turn signal knob. All other lights functioning normally. No fuse looseness or blown ones. I guess that points to the knob/switch. Is that right? It happened as I was driving. I had blown the body manufacturers fuse mentioned earlier however and didnt know if they may be connected. I cant recall if the signals worked when I first drove it after that happened, but I rhink they were working because i didnt notice til midway through the drive.

Dave

Keith, I did swap relays, with the one immediately next to it, no change. My hazards operate both turnsignals properly and the relay opens and closes at what sounds like a normal rate. Im not understanding how a relay could possibly cause this problem because the signal relay works when fed power from the hazard switch. I may be missing something though... 1 relay, 2 sides to operate, maybe there is some weird hocus pocus going on beyond me.

158wb said:

I think we are having a communication breakdown. I miss took what you wrote on your first comment.

Click to expand...

Not uncommon in email and forum postings... don't worry about it.

I took sides to mean legs of the system, i.e. hazards and turn sugnals.

Click to expand...

When i write "sides" (especially involving turn signals) i mean "indicating LEFT turn" and "indicating RIGHT turn".

If i meant "turn signals" versus "hazards" i would use the word "circuits" or "path" (or i'd say "signals" and "hazards").

To be clear, all of my lights including my turn signals work correctly with the hazards activated. I have no functionality through the multi selector switch. If thats what you call the turn signal knob.

Click to expand...

I don't think i ever mentioned "knob" ... i (like you) wrote multi-function switch (MFS), which means the stick that you push up and down to indicate right (up) and left (down). The term MFS also includes all the bits inside its cylindrical plastic housing that's mounted on the steering column (since that's where the contacts are).

All other lights functioning normally. No fuse looseness or blown ones. I guess that points to the knob/switch. Is that right?

Click to expand...

It could still mean conductors built into Fuse Block #1, but i'd certainly suspect the MFS.

Unfortunately, it is very difficult to access the "intermediate points" to test things with a voltmeter or ohmmeter. You're pretty much forced to pull off the MFS switch and then see if the appropriate pin-to-pin (on its connector) connections are made (and opened) as you move the directional stick up and down.

It happened as I was driving. I had blown the body manufacturers fuse mentioned earlier however and didnt know if they may be connected. I cant recall if the signals worked when I first drove it after that happened, but I rhink they were working because i didnt notice til midway through the drive.

Click to expand...

I can't see a reasonable way for the Body Man Fuse to have damaged the turn system, although explaining HOW you blew the fuse might yield a clue.

There have been "opened the MFS and fixed the contacts" postings (with photos), so there's hope.
I don't recall if the contacts they worked on were the turn signals or some other function (such as high/low beam headlights)

--dick

Dick,
In post #31 where do I find that image?

b

Dick, glad we cleared that up, part of the issue is im on my phone and not desktop. Hard to write and read on here. My knob was your mfs, haha, glad we had that one straight. Sounding like the mfs then, ****. I had a small inverter wired to that terminal, 15, and overloaded the inverter with a small vaccuum. Inverter seems fine but popped the fuse.