Oil Change (OM647, 2.7l, 5cyl)

Dougflas

DAD OWNER
Yes. (per pg 9-9 of the 2005 service manual)

Note that if you choose to reuse any copper seal washer it is recommended that you first anneal the washer by heating it blue-hot with a torch, keep it hot for about 30 seconds, then let cool (or quench as copper doesn't care much about rate of cooling, though I suppose quenching could warp it?). Remove surface oxide and you're good to go. This annealing resets the work hardening from previous use, and allows the washer to crush again as the plug is tightened, though it does NOT flatten it or remove the grooves and indents left by the plug, so some care and judgment should be applied. New seals are cheap, but if you don't have a new one a torch may get you out of a jam (but perhaps into a soup?).

-dave
Harbor freight sells an assortment for about 6 Bucks.
 

220629

Well-known member
In a pinch you can just re-use the copper seal washer. Not an option for the pros because a drip and call back is unacceptable. It will be an inconvenience for DIY. It won't be a gushing leak. I've re-used mine without issue. I don't use a torque wrench either. Life on the edge.

:cheers: vic

Added:
Harbor freight sells an assortment for about 6 Bucks.
Great tip.:thumbup:

I just bought an assortment for $4.99 on sale and an additional 20% off coupon. It has about 8 ea. proper size copper washers for the oil pan drain. (None to fit the transmission drain.)

Engine Oil Drain Copper Washer
05073946AA
ID 14 mm x 20 mm x approx. 1.5 mm thick

Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-20mmx14mmx1-5mm-Copper-Sealing-Fastener/dp/B073GKDTG1

As an aside.

Transmission Fluid Drain
5210833AA
ID 10 mm x 20 mm x approx. 1 mm thick

Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a15010500ux0421-DM-Copper-Washer-Fitting/dp/B072MH9CC3
A bit too thick.
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-1-5mm-Copper-Crush-Washers/dp/B01G7OZQUG
 
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hkpierce

'02 140 Hi BlueBlk Pass
Note that if you choose to reuse any copper seal washer it is recommended that you first anneal the washer by heating it blue-hot with a torch, keep it hot for about 30 seconds, then let cool (or quench as copper doesn't care much about rate of cooling, though I suppose quenching could warp it?).
I guess I haven't paid much attention to this over the last 15 years on my Sprinter - I never replaced the washer over numerous oil changes. I have never had a leak. Because of the above discussion, today for chuckles I used my wife's Honda crushable oil plug washer (same size plug as the Sprinter's, package of 50 for $10) just to see what happens.
 
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robertwold

New member
Recently I had a filter & oil change and the mechanic insisted that it took 12.5 quarts to register properly on the dipstick. Went by MB and they just shrugged their shoulders. I am a bit concerned about this as I am new to the T1N. Bob .. K6ZLY
 
D

Deleted member 50714

Guest
I guess I haven't paid much attention to this over the last 15 years on my Sprinter - I never replaced the washer over numerous oil changes. I have never had a leak. Because of the above discussion, today for chuckles I used my wife's Honda crushable oil plug washer (same size plug as the Sprinter's, package of 50 for $10) just to see what happens.
Four oil changes and I haven't replaced the seal and no leaks.
 

220629

Well-known member
Recently I had a filter & oil change and the mechanic insisted that it took 12.5 quarts to register properly on the dipstick. Went by MB and they just shrugged their shoulders. I am a bit concerned about this as I am new to the T1N. Bob .. K6ZLY
You do have a NAS aka NAFTA 2001 - 2006 Sprinter with 5 cylinder engine, correct? The NCV3 V6 does need 12.5 to 13 quarts... believe 13.5 quarts per the manual.

Assuming a T1N...
Every other 5 cylinder T1N in the world that is equipped with the OEM oil pan takes 9.5 quarts of oil for a change. Do you have a aftermarket oil pan?

:cheers: vic
 

zaskarkid

Member
does using mobile 1 0w-40 synthetic mean that you're committed to using this, and switching back to mineral oil will cause things like engine knocking?
 

sikwan

06 Tin Can
does using mobile 1 0w-40 synthetic mean that you're committed to using this, and switching back to mineral oil will cause things like engine knocking?

0W-40 (specifically Mobil 1) is a recommendation since it meets the MB specs for the correct oil to use.


I'm sure you can use other motor oils, but you run the risk of using an oil that has not been tested to work in certain conditions/parameters.
 

Ciprian

Spark Plugs not allowed!
does using mobile 1 0w-40 synthetic mean that you're committed to using this, and switching back to mineral oil will cause things like engine knocking?
There is no danger in switching back and forth and back again between synthetic and mineral any time you want, provided the oil is suitable for your engine.

Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
 

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