Remove Pull Replace Install Change T1N Fuel Injector

LS1K5

Member
Anyone know where to get the tiny O-rings that go into the injector return line port?

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Quite the saga. I have been vacillating on whether to do this myself. Seeing Doktor Andy's comments both encourages and discouraged me. I fear a "pro" who is unfamiliar with all the intricacies pointed out in this wtite up and who has my credit card. I hope to go slow to go fast...

I am making my list on Europarts SD. My concern is whether or not to order injectors before I start. My ooze on #1 appears to have only just begun and I already did the drive and pop with success. My next step is the leak test this morning after warming the engine up in the shop. Vic, your advice to do one at a time may be the best part to make it more accessible.

I really appreciate all the input provided here, especially on the diy tooling.

I Find it a little sad that the Bay Area does not seem to have an equivalent resource as Doktor Andy.

Anyhow, thanks for all the info!

Michael in Petaluma
Hi Michael, I am in you vicinity, just noticed one drop of black death, reading all the posts, saw yours, would love to know more about the leak test! JP
 
I am not having any luck pulling injectors, when people use a slide hammer, does it have a special attachment that hooks around where the hold down foot sits? Thanks!
 

220629

Well-known member
I am not having any luck pulling injectors, when people use a slide hammer, does it have a special attachment that hooks around where the hold down foot sits? Thanks!
The fork does fit to the claw bearing section.

https://www.amazon.com/CDI-Engine-Common-Injector-Puller-Hammer/dp/B00RJO2QXY

Does the engine run? If yes, have you tried the loosen the claw and pop method? That is what I would try. Change one injector at a time so the engine can be run between to heat it up.

:cheers: vic
 
I just found a video on YT where the guy showed a pneumatic slide hammer they use at dealerships to remove injectors, it is short in overall length so it fits in engine bay, like #4 and #5 cylinders on our vans. Anyone know where to purchase, no luck on ebay so far. Link below.
 
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Fletch9871

Active member
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Fletch9871

Active member
Gents...I had another thought as this thread came up again regarding premature failures after replacement.

The common consensus is remove an injector when the engine is fully up to operating temperature. Doing so eases the removal of injectors especially those with fuel coking.

I wonder if the torque procedue of the hold down bolt is comprimised by a hot engine...??? It seems to me with everything hot/expanded the torque applied would alter (reduce...???) the clamping force when the engine cools.

Just adding a few hits to an already dead horse which, if not already, is perilously close to becoming glue.

Keep Rolling...Chris
 

220629

Well-known member
...

I wonder if the torque procedure of the hold down bolt is compromised by a hot engine...??? It seems to me with everything hot/expanded the torque applied would alter (reduce...???) the clamping force when the engine cools.

...
:idunno:

Seal leak re-occurrence after repair happens, but it is not epidemic. We don't know what procedures have been used by those who do have problems. Being that the bolt is TTY I don't believe what you describe is a problem. Just my opinion though.

:2cents: vic
 
Having read every page of this thread, and yesterday finally removing and replacing my first injector, I have some thoughts. IMO, the sealing washer work hardens and that is why it no longer seals well. Doktor A says the washers are good for 180K, if I were to know what I know now, and I had a new van, I would preemptively change out the washers at 120-150K intervals to possibly bypass the headaches of stuck injectors. Being lucky enough to only have had to remove #1 injector so far, even though pretty much all the others have mild, but detectable leaks, I am going to do everything I can to design and make a puller that can pull #1-5, without taking the injector apart. I know I have the skills and equipment to do it, I love the van, but can't see having to fight and die to remove my #2-5! Thanks to all for your help and knowledge to get me this far!!:thumbup:
 

220629

Well-known member
Are the compressive forces exerted on a copper seal really enough to work harden the part? Isn't that force exerted by the hold down clamping force?

... I would preemptively change out the washers at 120-150K intervals to possibly bypass the headaches of stuck injectors.
...
:idunno:

Many injector seals last way past your trigger time. Ciprian's 2005 has over 770,000 miles. to my knowledge he has only needed to replace one injector seal over those miles and 14 years.

Not that you asked.
Stuck injectors are a result of long(er) term exhaust leak buildup. If you pull the black plastic injector cover to inspect every other oil change, the condensed exhaust/fuel leaked material won't have time to build up as much.

When it comes to injectors I prefer a "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" approach, but that is a personal choice not supported by many professionals. To be clear, I do try to monitor even minor changes in engine operation as part of that program.

As an aside.
I find it interesting that MB recommends using ceramic grease (other anti-seize compounds can work), but when the T1N factory injectors are removed there doesn't appear to be any signs of any anti-seize residue.

:2cents: vic
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
I would just do a regular inspection. The risks of damage to injectors, harnesses, fuel lines, or contaminating the fuel system are much too high. Regular inspection will catch the failure in the moderate stages.
 
Are the compressive forces exerted on a copper seal really enough to work harden the part? Isn't that force exerted by the hold down clamping force?


:idunno:

Many injector seals last way past your trigger time. Ciprian's 2005 has over 770,000 miles. to my knowledge he has only needed to replace one injector seal over those miles and 14 years.

Not that you asked.
Stuck injectors are a result of long(er) term exhaust leak buildup. If you pull the black plastic injector cover to inspect every other oil change, the condensed exhaust/fuel leaked material won't have time to build up as much.

When it comes to injectors I prefer a "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" approach, but that is a personal choice not supported by many professionals. To be clear, I do try to monitor even minor changes in engine operation as part of that program.

As an aside.
I find it interesting that MB recommends using ceramic grease (other anti-seize compounds can work), but when the T1N factory injectors are removed there doesn't appear to be any signs of any anti-seize residue.

:2cents: vic
I pulled the black plastic cover at my last oil change, there was a speck of black soot on #2 and 3, nothing visible on #1, yet number one required quite a bit of slide hammer force to remove, black soot had migrated 2/3-3/4 of the way up the injector. I agree with your assessment that they probably installed the injectors dry at the factory. From the bubble test with oil poured into the valleys, it appears all of my injectors are/were leaking, but since I am the third owner, I don't know if they had been removed previously, and looking closely at all the injectors there seems to be evidence that maybe some are remanufactured because of scratches and gouges, minor, on and around the upper 'nut', #5 appears 'new', from the coloration of the plastic electrical connection housing and the shiny metal parts...?

Interesting to hear about a 700K mile van only having one seal replaced! The minute vibrations of operation combined with the many heating and cooling cycles, to me, would say the washers are fully work hardened. The minutia of hold down tightening techniques in what in my opinion, is a marginal design for applying hold down force, may be a factor if determining the life of the seal.
 

220629

Well-known member
... The minutia of hold down tightening techniques in what in my opinion, is a marginal design for applying hold down force, may be a factor if determining the life of the seal.
When I discovered my leaking injector seal I was a bit unhappy and fully in agreement with blaming the failure on a poor design of the injector hold down design.

After some less passionate assessment I've come to the conclusion that the Bosch CDI injector design isn't necessarily faulty. Keep in mind that the same Bosch direct injection injector hold down system is used in many different engines. Some Sprinter owners have installed Honda copper seals in their MB engines so Honda uses a similar system. The copper seal design doesn't perform 100% flawlessly, but it does do the job.

:2cents: vic
 
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Esquivelia

New member
Having read every page of this thread, and yesterday finally removing and replacing my first injector, I have some thoughts. IMO, the sealing washer work hardens and that is why it no longer seals well. Doktor A says the washers are good for 180K, if I were to know what I know now, and I had a new van, I would preemptively change out the washers at 120-150K intervals to possibly bypass the headaches of stuck injectors. Being lucky enough to only have had to remove #1 injector so far, even though pretty much all the others have mild, but detectable leaks, I am going to do everything I can to design and make a puller that can pull #1-5, without taking the injector apart. I know I have the skills and equipment to do it, I love the van, but can't see having to fight and die to remove my #2-5! Thanks to all for your help and knowledge to get me this far!!:thumbup:


Any progress with your DIY puller?


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