T1N Harmonic Balancer Failure

220629

Well-known member
A caping chisel against the metal flange will crush the metal inward to release it without damaging the housing.

:2cents: vic
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
Yah it’s a woodruff key


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
No its NOT, its a strip key.
It locates the timing sprocket as well
You WON"T get it out--unless you want to break something.
Remember the key merely locates the position of the timing gear sprocket and the crank pulley to the crankshaft stub.
The actual location relies solely upon the torque applied to the crank bolt which ensures it doesn't come loose in service and rip off that strip key portion protruding in the picture .
Dennis
 

lindenengineering

Well-known member
Your next challenge is to use a NEW bolt and cone washer! Then!!!!
Drum roll, drum roll.
Tighten it up to 245 lbf ft then go 80 degrees of angle tightening.
This is the most important bit of the job and will will need some sort of tool to lock the crank.
AND
That doesn't mean chain or strap wrench applied around the crank pulley!!~!
As suggested by one Texas based truck mech butcher over the phone! :thumbdown:
Dennis
 

ClyneSnowtail

Active member
Wanted to throw some ideas in here, as I just performed this.
My pulley didnt just come off, and I didnt prep for removing the radiator to install a puller. Didnt have time. So what I did was put a prybar between the front cover and the pulley, using just enough force to give the pulley a direction, as I didnt want to break the cast aluminium. I rapped on the pulley with a ballpeen and slowly it came off.
To remove the seal, I drove a self-tapping screw into it, and just pryed it out with the screw.
 

tiger108

Member
Thanks for all the helpful hints! Had a health emergency with a family member and had to step away from the van for a few days.
A seal puller (honestly didn’t even know those existed) did the trick to get the seal out.

About to reassemble. Does the new seal have to be fitted flush before the new pulley is mounted? Mine sticks out ~1/4” after using a piece of wood to try to seat it better, as mentioned on this forum. Wondering if I should go grab a metal washer to seat the seal a bit more, or if tightening the pulley bolt down will take care of it.
 

Midwestdrifter

Engineer In Residence
You need to seat the seal properly before putting the pulley on. A block of wood with a hole in the middle for the bolt will work.
 
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tiger108

Member
Thanks, Midwest! That is exactly what I ended up doing. Got her all finished up and took her out for a spin after. Couldn't have accomplished this without this forum.
 

john burgman

New member
hi does the seal seat flush or inside. I installed my inside and have leaks...arg! I did purchase my kit from europartsSD...nice guy. just finished and to pull it apart. the seat came with the plastic dome looking thing. I didn't install that.
thanks
 

maw123

New member
I live in the UK and have a 2005 Sprinter van with 2.1l CDI engine (OM611). Does this problem also occur on these engines? A search for harmonic balancer part does not yield any results, only crankshaft pulley, which I understand is essentially the same thing but unsure if has the same issues on the UK van.
Tony
 

Nautamaran

2004 140” HRC 2500 (Crewed)
Since no one has chimed in...
The crankshaft pulley *IS* the same part.

Does the 611’s balancer fail as often as the 5-cylinder 612/647s? :idunno:

My understanding of its purpose is that as the different cylinders go through their combustion cycles, the crank winds up like a corkscrew the slightest amount, most pronounced with cylinder one. The rotational inertia of the pulley helps to reduce the amplitude of this twist, and the rubber mounting of the heavy ring helps further by soaking up the higher frequency vibrations that would otherwise bounce back and forth through the crank.

Over time, the heat builds up in the rubber and it can harden and crack and the ring severs its link to the crankshaft, which is left to undergo the loading and vibration of the combustion cycles unrestrained. Over time the vibrations can fatigue the crankshaft and lead to catastrophic failure (in theory... I have seen the math (which was elegant yet horrid!) but have only heard 2nd-hand stories of actual failures).
So, to head all that off, I have geared up to spend quality time replacing my failed balancer this weekend. Wish me luck!

-dave
 

kkanuck

LUV my T1N
Here is picture of my 2004 original HB with Rear AC, 150K miles on it, and lived its life in the South. I understand the rubber ring can dry rot, but perhaps in the humid South it is less frequent versus Arizona and dry like climates.

I will be changing it soon, but still appears to be intact in this picture I was able to capture
 

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220629

Well-known member
:2cents:

The HB must be there for specific rpm's/conditions, not all of the time. I know that in small aircraft engines there are specific rpm ranges which are to be avoided.

Temperature and service conditions are a factor. There may be quality/manufacturing differences in the rubber assemblies which also come into play.

:cheers: vic
 

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