p0336 - Replacing Crankshaft Sensor Removal / Replacement

Burza

Member
Ive read in other threads of someone drilling their sensor out. They must have used some type of right angle drill as my conventional drill wont fit from the top or from the inside. ( I have moved the transmission out of the way).

On another note, my non OE sensor seems to have a larger diameter casing. Has anyone used a non OE sensor with success? I know it supposed to be a tight fit. This is just way too tight. Going to do some sanding out of the hole as well as the sensor casing.

This is a lot of effort for a $25 part.
 

Cheyenne

UK 2004 T1N 313CDi
On another note, my non OE sensor seems to have a larger diameter casing. Has anyone used a non OE sensor with success? I know it supposed to be a tight fit. This is just way too tight. Going to do some sanding out of the hole as well as the sensor casing.

This is a lot of effort for a $25 part.
General consensus of opinion on here is NOT to use a cheap aftermarket sensor, it will come back to haunt you.

Get a genuine MB sensor which should fit the hole without any modification and be done with it.

PS If you enlarge the hole to fit the aftermarket sensor then it fails how will you fit a genuine sensor afterwards?

Keith.
 
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vanski

If it’s winter, I’m probably skiing..
OR OEM ie Bosch. Doesn't have to have the star on it or come in a MBZ box, just needs to be from the original supplier. Here are the MBZ, Mopar, and Bosch part numbers - A 003 153 28 28 (MBZ) , 05080352AA (Mopar) , 0 261 210 170 (Bosch). Amazing the price differences when you steer away from MBZ or Mopar and just go with Bosch.
 

Burza

Member
I am attaching two pictures. Not quite sure how to get them to show up in the message. One is of the OEM part I bought today from MB dealer for $168. The other is a part i got at a parts shop for $25. They are both the same exact size. THE SAME SIZE.

If I cannot be my AM part to fit, then how am I going to get my OEM part to fit?

WHATS going on here?? I did remove the old sensor in pieces. I did remove something which looked like the old casing. Could there still be some remaining parts of the old casing still in there? It feels just like smooth steel.
 

Attachments

vanski

If it’s winter, I’m probably skiing..
I am attaching two pictures. Not quite sure how to get them to show up in the message. One is of the OEM part I bought today from MB dealer for $168. The other is a part i got at a parts shop for $25. They are both the same exact size. THE SAME SIZE.

If I cannot be my AM part to fit, then how am I going to get my OEM part to fit?

WHATS going on here?? I did remove the old sensor in pieces. I did remove something which looked like the old casing. Could there still be some remaining parts of the old casing still in there? It feels just like smooth steel.
Burza: Hopefully you already resolved this... did you find anything in there? Seems like part of the plastic must have been seized inside.
 

drew502

Member
2004 2500 om647 - received code p0336, symptoms were stalling out at stop signs/lights and then eventually not starting once the vehicle sat over night.

I thought I'd add my 'learning experience' notes from changing out my crankshaft sensor for those who are a 5/10 on the mechanical scale like me.. Maybe a 6/10 :)
View attachment 86869

1. Removing the sensor from the plug can be tricky... The clip is on the opposite side of the bolt, plug side. There's a tab on the plug which is pretty much at the top, opposite side of the bolt on the plug. Press that puppy in and then push the sensor plug out and it will pop right off.
2. Having a 'baby' 1/4" socket wrench is critical with about a 3" extension to a 1/4" socket. I struggled for probably 15 minutes with a larger socket wrench which just wouldn't fit in the small area you have to remove the bolt before I bit the bullet and went to a hardware store to get the 'baby' wrench. Once I had that it was a matter of seconds to remove it.

Vehicle started right up after replacing.. FYI - I asked Mercedes what it would cost for them to JUST CHANGE THE CRANKSHAFT SENSOR and they said in the $500 to $750 range.

Is there any need to disconnect the negative battery terminal prior to replacing the crankshaft sensor?
 

220629

Well-known member
Is there any need to disconnect the negative battery terminal prior to replacing the crankshaft sensor?
It probably isn't really necessary, but many service manuals recommend isolating the battery when changing sensors. There is no power to that sensor when the ignition key is in the off position.

Added:
For the crankshaft position sensor you are working down in the general area of the starter motor connections though. A wrench or other metal across those terminals could ruin your day.

:2cents: vic
 
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bluto

New member
I second the replacement with an OEM quality part. The $65 NAPA Echlin crankshaft sensor I purchased sort of worked but then gave substantially different poor running condition symptoms, the vehicle still ran (not well) and was especially bad in 90 to 100 degree temperatures. I couldn't maintain 50 mph on a flat and level interstate north of Sacramento. It cost me a lot more money in the long run as I paid a professional to help me when I was 1000 miles from home. If I recall NAPA had an even cheaper replacement part but I opted for the "higher quality" one.
 

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